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the exclusive Road Force Measurement® system applies up to 1,400 pounds (635 kg) against the tire. The loaded roller detects non-balance, radial-force-related vibrations caused by eccentricity and constructional variation of the tire and wheel. Unlike non-contact measurement, the roller samples the entire footprint of the tire including the sidewall’s contribution to ride quality.
All 4 tires were definitely spin balanced. The last time I had tires bubble-balanced was when I first started driving, back in 1970. That was back when tires were sized by letter, -i.e. G70-14, instead of the metric system now in use.
I contacted a large Chevrolet dealer about this issue that I'm having with my Maxx yesterday, and they want $80 per hr for diagnostic time. The problem I had the last time I took it in was that it cost me for the diagnostic time, but the dealer couldn't get the car to act up. I paid for the diagnostic time, and was still no closer to figuring it out afterwards...very frustrating when you're on a limited budget, due to being unemployed. I guess I'm gonna have to wait till it takes a major dump on me, and hope to address it under the extended warranty that I have. This is SO damned frustrating...what a P.O.S.!
you stated they were definitely spin balanced...but were they specifically done on a hunter machine?......not all spin balancers can do the road force measurement....to more accurately balance your tires....
sorry to hear you are still having problems finding a dealer to work with you....good luck
I still didn't get whether the tires were rotated (only that they were balanced).
If the severe vibration is definitely felt on the front, simply swapping the tires to the rear can be a cheap way to isolate if something weird is going on with a tire. (I suppose if all the tires had the exact same problem then it wouldn't resolve it, but it's worth a try and it's free and safe if you have a reliable tire jack to use)
If the problem still exists after swapping then maybe a wheel bearing is breaking out of the race and later resetting itself (had this happen once on a Dakota and I replaced the sealed hub asm myself). The thing would make a terrible noise and then go quiet after either applying brakes or side thrust in the right way.I definitely could detect it when I got home by pulling sideways on the hub for a while and hear the bearing going south. (but you think the Chevy dealer would have ruled this out).
Bottom line is there is a good chance anything tire related can be ruled out for free with a rotation to the rear. If the problem goes away, then more investigating will be necessary to isolate (some $ if you can't diagnose further yourself with trying things like ABS and traction control and overall tightness of all front end parts too.)
Unfortunately, I am unable to rotate the front tires with the back ones, due to a pretty good sized "ding" on the edge of one of my rear wheels (these factory steel wheels look so flimsy). Even though we were able to successfully balance this wheel, I thought I would just be asking for trouble if I moved it to the front. The pain about this whole thing is that it will be a crapshoot to spend $80/hr to have the dealer drive it/diagnose it, when it will most likely not act up while they have the car. The dealer that we brought it from advised us to keep driving it until it did it more consistently or constantly, so that they would be able to see what was happening, in order to correct it. While I kind of agree with them, I'm afraid that this thing will be intermitent until my extended warranty runs out, then it will take a major dump on me, costing $$$$$. Being unemployed at the moment and going back to school, I can't afford endless trips to the dealer for diagnosis at $80 per hour, with no guarantee of being able to duplicate, then correct the problem. I really don't know what to do here.
I don't get it. I'm unemployed too with time on my hands and doing chores around the house while looking. Rotating the tires to the front is a diagnostic step you can try for free (providing you got a good jack and a jackstand or can borrow them to do it safely one side at a time).. Are you saying that that rear tire is SO bad it shouldn't be on the car? If so I can't help! (if it dynamically balanced OK then you should be able to use it. (do you visibly see the wheel/tire wobble , not at the rim edge, but the sidewall of the tire? (if you jack it up and rotate it by hand or someone driving behind you observing? If so it should be replaced, period! (check a junkyard for a good used one).You could at least try rotating the good rear tire to the front. If you don't want to spend $, but it's driving you nuts, then there there you go!!! (maybe a local car nut friend can help you). Everyone knows somebody that's a car nut with tools (I'm my own "nut" with tools, so I usually do all the work not under warranty or not requiring special tools ;-) Ask around your local friends. They should be able to help a friend in need (buy 'em a few beers after they help!!)
Our 2004 Maxx LT recently passed the 130k mile marker. Still going strong, still getting basically the same fuel economy as when it was new -- 28mpg in mixed driving -- even though the Check Engine light has been on for a month or two indicating a catalytic converter problem.
Everything still works, except the antenna which I accidentally snapped off during a cold winter day. Showing some wear and tear in places, but that is to be expected.
Overall, we continue to be very pleased with this car.
good to see another high mileage Maxx....04 LT here...will roll over 146k shoitly....still getting great gas mileage...no major repairs other than a right front tire rod replacement....running synthetic motor oil......changing per GMOL since the 30K mark.....on third set of tires....second battery and third set of brakes....
major scheduled maintenance done at 95K....and all fluids replaced....two of my control button LEDs are out...but otherwise.....no problems at all....hope to reach 200K and beyond in it....
My 2004 Maxx is not as high millage as yours or Pao's but is going strong at 106,000 . Only problem with the cars is with the breaks and disks. It is on its fourth set. I changed them first under warranty and then once more at the Chevy dealer. Since then, I have replaced them at Pep Boys that gives you the best warranty. Otherwise it is running very well and it looks brand new. I am very sorry that they have discontinued it. It beat the design of the Versa by five years. GM, you have lost on a good thing by not promoting the Maxx.
On my 05 I hope also to get an easy 130K. I'm at 68K "I get great milage ~ 28mpg" and pretty much original brakes and rotors. I did the back inner pads (piston side only) as they wore to quick. I gues I didn't maintain my slides on the calipers to make it move freely as I should have. I'll have to do fronts soon as I feel a slight pulsating. It's very important on Alum Wheels to torque evenly (thats' any car !). AND YES I like my MAXX better than the "puffy style of the Toy_ versi or ..sa" a guy at work has one and milage is poor and dealer rate for $ervice is through the roof! There ! D~
rolled over 146K today as a matter of fact.....replaced just the front rotors so far....NAPA parts.....havent had any problems otherwise.....first brakes done by an independent shop...second set done by Merchants Tire......both about the same price.......not sure the OEM rotors were any good.....will be interested to see how your last change goes....
I thought I had a thermostat problem myself. i was out for drive, nothing to heavy 80KM or so and temperature gauge fell to the cold line and the electric blower fans came on and stayed on. I too thought it was a Thermostat issue, since I used to replace them on my 1985 Pontiac. However, the thermostat on newer vehicles is differnt than that of older cars. It was said to me that, if the thermostat failed the entire engine would have seized. After that weekend drive, it never happend again, and the temerature gauge worked fine. however, my wife was recenlty in a front end collision and the Insurance Co wrote off the vhicle. But, good news, every one was fine and we replaced the O4 maxx, with you guessed it another MAXX. Anyhow, verify this with your mechanic. But after hearing that, I was satifsied that I didn;t have a thermostat problem. Also, yes the Refill is that resorvoir rear-center-rightish of the engine bay.
I have a 2006 Malibu Maxx ( love it). One issue I have is vibration when I am applying my brakes. I am having the brake pads and rotars replaced this Friday. However, when I turn a corner, sometimes I hear a pop and somewhat feel it in the steering wheel column. I don't get all the time. I have had it checked out 3 times. The first garage (Bell Tire) said I had a bad ball joint (but so did 5 other people in the waiting room). This past March I had new tires put on and had the mechanic check the front ball joints and he said they were fine. I had another garage tell me the ball joints were fine as well. Questions: I have 85,000 plus miles, would a ball joint be bad? Is it a common defect of the Malibu to have front end issues? I've talked to other Malibu owners and it seems some of the issues I have are common among the other Malibu owners.
I recently had corrected some popping click sound on my 05 maxx w/ 68K miles. these were evident at slow speeds and while turning wheel far rt and or left (super lub spray at the joint under the dash @ column "simple"). Search this forum or Steering suspension forum (you'll see) Of course a bad ball joint would be evident if you just grabbed it and shook it around a bit (& you want to get under the car safely and you know what to look for... "do you drive on many rough roads) & i luv my max D~
I have experienced the shaking on the front end (2004 Maxx) but did not notice the popping. Whenever I had the problem, it came down to warped disks. I have had that problem for several years now (105,000 miles on the car as of today) but it was corrected when they installed new disks. I read that if they do not tighten the nuts to the right torque, the front disks will bend easily. I told the service people at Two Guys and have not had any problems with the disks. Their break service has a good warranty so if something goes wrong or they do not do the job right, it will be under warranty. The dealer and other service shops do not give a good warranty.
Sounds like the steering shaft problem. It's well known. (evident by popping noises at slow speeds...in our case with left hand turns). We had it replaced under warranty (there is a kit, part number 22687711 that the dealer can install). Alternately someone wrote up about spray lubing the steering joint themselves after warranty. Check under "Chevrolet Malibu Maxx Steering/Suspension Questions" for this group. It's a pretty long thread.
For the steering pop, Check the steering gear's intermediate shaft. On Maxxes these are known to go bad and cause pops and clunks in the steering. In some cases the rack bushings can also go bad, contributing to the problem.
Front Suspension is a major weakness for Malibus, Pontiac G6's, and some Saabs.
Does anyone know how to find out how a specific car was configured from the factory? I just bought a used '05 Maxx and was hoping to find out the configuration as built. By the way, we drove it from Indiana to Pennsylvania and back in the first two days after getting it at an average of almost 33 MPG. This beats the 4 cyl Honda Accords I have been driving!
I too have an '05 Maxx bought new and with 83,000 miles now. It gives mean average of 34.5 MPG on highways and has gone as high as 38 in economy setting. In city driving it has given me a low of 29 MPG. So you are in good company.
To check the factory configuration check the 4 door frames. I cannot remember which one has the history but one of them definitely does.
To make things merrier, in addition to my existing two 2005 Malibu Base Sedans, I just bought a used 2006 Maxx, not a week ago.
Learning his ways slowly and wishing him many happy and healthy years ahead. Interesting how things are the same and different between the Sedans and Maxx.
One of such things -- the engine air filter and its environs.
Almost the same, but the electrical connectors that have to be disconnected to get to the filter are totally different. While I can easily disconnect ones in the Sedans, I can't figure out how to do it with Maxx -- just can't find a place where to put a screwdriver and unlock the connector. And don't want to break anything, of course.
04 Maxx LT here.about to role 149K...not sure what connector y ou are referring too as I have changed the filter many a time now...and simply loosen the screws, popped the top off and replace the filter...no other connections, especially electrical to deal with .....unless a major redesign for later MY Maxxes????
--- To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do the following:
1. Remove the screws that hold the cover 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Lift off the cover. ---
You can't lift the filter cover high enough without the risk of tearing the wires unless you disconnect the connector first-- the wires do constrain the range of motion.
I've always disconnected the connector when changing the filter in my sedans.
ok..I have simply undone the screws, lifted the edge of the top near the fender and slid the filter into place...no strain on any of the wiring at all on my 04....
Thank you for looking into it, pao -- I tried it in my Maxx last weekend but the wires going to the connector are so short, that I didn't feel I could safely pull out the filter, so I screwed the cover back on without achieving my goal. On the other hand, I may now have an idea how to unlock the connector -- just not sure when I have time to try it.
Thanks again for your advice: I've been watching your postings on Malibu forums for a long time and know that you possess a wealth of experience with Maxx.
My response to your recommendation may sound rough -- sorry for not wording it better, was short on time and wanted to be precise, on the other hand. I do appreciate your advice!
no problem..there should be a clip that is lifted in order to free the connector...most let you slide a screw driver into to them to unfasten it...good luck
Never hear/see/feel that the radiator fan is engaging in my 2005 maxx. The temp gauge will be in the middle when driving but will move a bit higher (to the middle between bottom of red zone and the middle.) Was told this is normal but I thought the radiator fan should be enaged to bring the temp down?
How to check that the radiator fan is working (relay, temp sensor etc)? Is the fan supposed to be running whenever A/C is on?
the reading on your temp gauge is correct..in all honestly...my 04 maxx...i dont ever recall the fan being on.....and just rolled over 150k miles on it this past weekend....it should not be on every time the A/C is on....
Figured I'd post here to say hello. Just picked my Maxx from the dealer 2 days ago and absolutely love it.
My mother bought an 04 Maxx LS about 4-5 months ago and I thought it was a nice vehicle. Then I got jealous, so I started hunting for one as well.
I finally succeeded and bought an 06 Maxx LTZ from a local dealer here in town. It has moderately high mileage but came with a 12month GM warranty and a dealer 6 year/100,000 powertrain warranty so I feel pretty safe.
Good thing I have the GM warranty too. The 6-disk CD player still needs fixed and it could use either an alignment or balance and rotate tires.
I just wish it wasn't grey!
That's about it for now. I'll try to contribute to the forum as much as possible.
One mechanic told me how to unlock the connector, but I still could not do it -- looks like a special tool is required there. Tried it several times, then asked another mechanic at the dealership, who told me that he never disconnected the wires. "Just unscrew and lift the cover -- you'll be able to pull the filter out".
It's odd that the manual says one thing and the practice another.
Today, I did it, at last -- as pao and that mechanic suggested. Carefully, I pulled the filter out and inspected. Even cleaned the box under it. It feels good -- now I know how to do it.
Thank you, pao, for the good advice!
2. A hole in the rear lift gate -------------------------------
I am still exploring the car from all angles, and today noticed an odd hole in the body of the rear lift gate. It doesn't look like a "manufactured detail", but I would like to ask people to check their Maxxes and tell me if you happen to have similar holes.
So, lift the gate so that the horizontal "chrome strip" is at your eyes' level. There are several (5?) screws going up from under the strip -- move your eyes toward the right-most one. In my Maxx, there is a horizontal elongated hole there, in the metal crease under the strip. Do you see anything similar in yours?
There is a small chance that this is how the car is made and the hole is there for a useful purpose, like water draining.
If this hole is not there by design, I am at a loss how it came to be. The only explanation I have now is that the gate was repainted, and prior to that, sanded, with the sander cutting into the thin metal in the crease.
If so, I'll need to figure out how to patch it.
3. General feelings -------------------
After a month of owning, I like Maxx very much. It's an extremely utilitarian car; drives well, is comfortable and feels good. Too bad it was not selling well and went away.
For fairness sake, I should compare Maxx with my 2005 Base Sedans. Maxx feels heavier, and its engine makes you aware of more power.
But, oddly, the sedans move smoother and accelerate better -- i.e. with their 145 HP 4-cylinder engine as opposed to the 205-HP V6 in Maxx. "Smoother" means that I and my passenger feel more of road unevenness in Maxx, compared to the sedans.
it could use either an alignment or balance and rotate tires.
Before you do that, consider investing about $120 into a car jack (or better two) and a good torque wrench and, at least, retorquing the wheels yourself (with 100 lb*ft, which can be found in the manual). If you care about your tires and brakes, you will be rotating tires yourself or retorquing the wheels after somebody else did. It is also a good thing to have in your background should you happen to get a flat on the road.
I checked my 2006 Maxx Lift Gate. The metal strip has 4 screws, 1 on left, 2 in center and 1 on right. There is no hole in the metal crease near the right screw.
It is possible this is a slight manufacturing defect. I read an article somewhere about the Maxx Hatch. The outer shell is made out of aluminium. They had to develop a new manufacturing process to make the hatch shape because aluminum is difficult material to stamp. As long as the hole is painted it should not cause any problems.
There are 4 slotted drain holes underneath the bottom edge where the inner and outer shell are crimped together.
I'll go check my Maxx for the four drain slots right away, out of curiosity.
As for the hole in my lift gate: yes, it is painted all over and car has 56K on the odometer without me seeing any problem with it. I'll watch that hole, dirt and water, and think if I should patch it (would be not hard). I was very puzzled about the origin; your point about the manufacturing process makes sense.
Noticed for the first time yesterday my temp gauge is no longer registering anything. Drove around quite a bit yesterday, yet according to the temperature gauge I never turned the car on. I once had a Saturn that registered too cool on the temp gauge, mechanic diagnosed it as a thermostat issue. My initial thought on the Maxx was it was the gauge since there was no reading, but when I turned the car off and stepped out I could hear the fan. So is it the thermostat? How cheap are they on Malibus? On the Saturn it was pretty cheap, but that was probably 7 years ago. Thanks!
Has anyone had problems with oil leaks?? I have an 06 Malibu maxx LTZ with only 12000 km and had to have the crank seal replaced....and also the driver side trans-axle seal replaced......Otherwise I been so happy with the car....I'm just hoping their not big oil leakers...I have a new expensive driveway I don't want ruined by Leaks.....Thanks....
have had that happened twice to me in the past 5 years with my 04 MAXX LT, no with 154K on it.....simply worked again next time I started the engine.....my A/C sometimes does the same thing.....then I stop and start the engine again...and the problem corrects itself...again..the A/C issue has happened 4-5 times in 5 years...otherwise...still going strong
as far as oil leaks....havent spilled a drop yet........
I was able to find an 18" refill from O'Reilly Auto Parts that all I had to do was trim it down to 14" and it slipped right back into the arm where I took the factory one out. It was their cheapest ones, but the refill was exactly what I needed. The holder that holds the rubber part was exactly the same as the stock part, just had to be trimmed.
Well, the dealer had the car for like 3 weeks, driving it every day, trying to duplicate this condition. They finally got it to act up. Their diagnosis was that it was something to do with a faulty electronic power steering control module.
They replaced that, we took the car home and all was good for about two weeks, then it started acting up again. I even gave my wife a small hand-held cassette recorder, and she has made an audio recording of three of these "incidents". They sound like you are running over one of those rumble strips that they have along the edge of the highway. The noise is really, really loud, along with the strong vibration in the steering column. She did say that if she tries to apply the brakes to slow down while the car is having one of these fits, that the brake pedal is real stiff. The dealer we bought the car from is cluless, and can't offer any more advice, because they have no fault codes to go on. Anybody have any other suggestions that we could look at? I'm stumped, and the meter is running on my extended warranty, with less than 30,000 miles to go on it.
So this fall I went to start my '05 LT Maxx remotely and it wouldn't start. That sent me to the internet to look for solutions. (yes I checked the DIC, locked, hood, etc) I was guided to the wires for the hood latch. BTW- the fob worked, doors locked, and lights blinked once but no start. I tried to jump the wires and that did not seem to do it. I eventually went back and skinned the black and purple wires and twisted them together. That worked. I guess I could have bought and replaced the hood latch but this was much easier. :shades:
I've posted this problem on here before and have just gotten the issue resolved, so I thought I'd update the message board. Apparently at some time in the last 8-9 months, the brake fluid in my 2006 Maxx had been topped off with what looked to be power steering fluid. The two fluids did not mix, and contaminated my whole braking system. I just ended up having to have every part in my brake system that contained rubber replaced..i.e. rotors, flexible brake lines, master cylinder and abs hydraulic unit.The way that they discovered the problem was by pulling the cap off of the master cylinder. The mechanic set it down and had to take a phone call. When he got back and went to put the cap back on, the rubber had swelled so much that he couldn't get the cap back on. Needless to say, this wasn't covered by my extended warranty. It ended up cpsting me $2392.00. It was $1200 in parts and $900 in labor. I guess it could've been worse if my wife had had an accident and gotten hurt or killed or hurt or killed someone else. At least it's finally fixed. I will watch anyone changing my oil from here on out like a hawk.
Hi Has anyone had any issues with the "E" brake cable on the Drivers side failing. mine is only working on Pass side. Setting the park cable is not sufficient on steep grades with only one side working. ...is there a adj point that gives away?... Any Ideas are appreciated. Thanks D~
You said your cds were stuck, well the cd changer keeps trying to eject but can't and so it runs down the battery. I had the same problem, we finally took out the fuse that runs the cd/radio. I took it to my dealer and $549.00 later and I had another cd system, it was changed twice after that under warrenty till I got one that works. Now warrenty is up a year later and I have the problem again. I am not spending that again....now what. I read some other site that said they used a nail file and giggled it around and it worked....I will try that. I am ready to screem.....how can Chevy put such a poor product in one of there vehicles and not have a re-call?
I have found my wife's '06 Maxx is the easiest vehicle I've ever had to change oil. I have a band filter wrench of the correct size to start the old filter rotating and the rest of the way by hand after I've already drained the oil at the drain plug. The way it is mounted allows not spilling oil all over the place. The plastic oil pan I use fits under nice and I first break the drain plug loose and then slide it in place under it. I also love the engine oil reset at the console that warns you in advance how much time remaining for when to change it (based on engine revolutions and outside temp). Depending on your size you may wish to drive onto a 2X6 board under each wheel to gain a little extra room. (try sliding under it first to check before you try to change the oil)
So, there are two things to unscrew under the engine: the plug and the filter?
In a 2.2L Ecotec Malibu, there is one thing to unscrew there -- the plug: the filter is at the top of the engine. I glanced under Maxx (last fall) and noticed only the filter -- I thought I would unscrew it and the oil comes out. There is a separate plug there, then? If so, I assume I unscrew it first, let the oil drain -- and then remove the filter?
Sorry but my instructions were for a 3.5L V6 Maxx. You would still have a oil drain plug on your 2.2L engine though. Look for the lowest part (oil pan) and there should be a large plug to unscrew, I think the size is 13MM(V6), but I'm just saying that from memory. Maybe someone else can comment on the 4 Cylinder for details. Being your engine is different than mine I also can''t comment on the room under the car or locations . In my case, with the V6, the filter is under the engine and vertical so little to no oil spills when you unscrew it. Sounds like you've never done this before so maybe a motorhead friend can help the first time. Good luck!!!
My question *was* about Maxx (3.5L). I have changed oil in 2.2L many times (have two Base Malibus). Last August I bought Maxx and am trying to understand the procedure for changing oil in its 3.5L engine. So, your original reply was on a valid topic. I just got puzzled about the plug (i.e. in addition to the filter pointing down under the engine). Still am.
(On 2.2L, the plug's head is 15 mm if I remember my wrench choice correctly. It is probably the same on 3.5L -- if it is there at all, which now sounds it is.)
Comments
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/features/how.cfm
not all tire ships have this type of machine:
the exclusive Road Force Measurement® system applies up to 1,400 pounds (635 kg) against the tire. The loaded roller detects non-balance, radial-force-related vibrations caused by eccentricity and constructional variation of the tire and wheel. Unlike non-contact measurement, the roller samples the entire footprint of the tire including the sidewall’s contribution to ride quality.
I contacted a large Chevrolet dealer about this issue that I'm having with my Maxx yesterday, and they want $80 per hr for diagnostic time. The problem I had the last time I took it in was that it cost me for the diagnostic time, but the dealer couldn't get the car to act up. I paid for the diagnostic time, and was still no closer to figuring it out afterwards...very frustrating when you're on a limited budget, due to being unemployed. I guess I'm gonna have to wait till it takes a major dump on me, and hope to address it under the extended warranty that I have. This is SO damned frustrating...what a P.O.S.!
sorry to hear you are still having problems finding a dealer to work with you....good luck
If the severe vibration is definitely felt on the front, simply swapping the tires to the rear can be a cheap way to isolate if something weird is going on with a tire.
(I suppose if all the tires had the exact same problem then it wouldn't resolve it, but it's worth a try and it's free and safe if you have a reliable tire jack to use)
If the problem still exists after swapping then maybe a wheel bearing is breaking out of the race and later resetting itself (had this happen once on a Dakota and I replaced the sealed hub asm myself). The thing would make a terrible noise and then go quiet after either applying brakes or side thrust in the right way.I definitely could detect it when I got home by pulling sideways on the hub for a while and hear the bearing going south. (but you think the Chevy dealer would have ruled this out).
Bottom line is there is a good chance anything tire related can be ruled out for free with a rotation to the rear. If the problem goes away, then more investigating will be necessary to isolate (some $ if you can't diagnose further yourself with trying things like ABS and traction control and overall tightness of all front end parts too.)
Good luck!
They should be able to help a friend in need (buy 'em a few beers after they help!!)
Everything still works, except the antenna which I accidentally snapped off during a cold winter day. Showing some wear and tear in places, but that is to be expected.
Overall, we continue to be very pleased with this car.
major scheduled maintenance done at 95K....and all fluids replaced....two of my control button LEDs are out...but otherwise.....no problems at all....hope to reach 200K and beyond in it....
I thought I had a thermostat problem myself. i was out for drive, nothing to heavy 80KM or so and temperature gauge fell to the cold line and the electric blower fans came on and stayed on. I too thought it was a Thermostat issue, since I used to replace them on my 1985 Pontiac. However, the thermostat on newer vehicles is differnt than that of older cars. It was said to me that, if the thermostat failed the entire engine would have seized. After that weekend drive, it never happend again, and the temerature gauge worked fine. however, my wife was recenlty in a front end collision and the Insurance Co wrote off the vhicle. But, good news, every one was fine and we replaced the O4 maxx, with you guessed it another MAXX. Anyhow, verify this with your mechanic. But after hearing that, I was satifsied that I didn;t have a thermostat problem. Also, yes the Refill is that resorvoir rear-center-rightish of the engine bay.
In some cases the rack bushings can also go bad, contributing to the problem.
Front Suspension is a major weakness for Malibus, Pontiac G6's, and some Saabs.
To check the factory configuration check the 4 door frames. I cannot remember which one has the history but one of them definitely does.
The Dealer I traded my '04 to told me they had absolutely no trouble reselling it at a good price. They remain popular, for sure.
Base Sedans, I just bought a used 2006 Maxx, not a week ago.
Learning his ways slowly and wishing him many happy and healthy years
ahead. Interesting how things are the same and different between the
Sedans and Maxx.
One of such things -- the engine air filter and its environs.
Almost the same, but the electrical connectors that have to be
disconnected to get to the filter are totally different. While I can
easily disconnect ones in the Sedans, I can't figure out how to do it
with Maxx -- just can't find a place where to put a screwdriver and
unlock the connector. And don't want to break anything, of course.
Anybody have relevant experience to share?
---
To inspect or replace the engine air cleaner/filter, do
the following:
1. Remove the screws that hold the cover
2. Disconnect the electrical connector.
3. Lift off the cover.
---
You can't lift the filter cover high enough without the risk of tearing the wires
unless you disconnect the connector first-- the wires do constrain the range of motion.
I've always disconnected the connector when changing the filter in my sedans.
Thanks again for your advice: I've been watching your postings on Malibu forums for a long time and know that you possess a wealth of experience with Maxx.
My response to your recommendation may sound rough -- sorry for not wording it better, was short on time and wanted to be precise, on the other hand. I do appreciate your advice!
How to check that the radiator fan is working (relay, temp sensor etc)? Is the fan supposed to be running whenever A/C is on?
hhmax
Just picked my Maxx from the dealer 2 days ago and absolutely love it.
My mother bought an 04 Maxx LS about 4-5 months ago and I thought it was a nice vehicle. Then I got jealous, so I started hunting for one as well.
I finally succeeded and bought an 06 Maxx LTZ from a local dealer here in town.
It has moderately high mileage but came with a 12month GM warranty and a dealer 6 year/100,000 powertrain warranty so I feel pretty safe.
Good thing I have the GM warranty too. The 6-disk CD player still needs fixed and it could use either an alignment or balance and rotate tires.
I just wish it wasn't grey!
That's about it for now. I'll try to contribute to the forum as much as possible.
1. The air filter
-----------------
One mechanic told me how to unlock the connector, but I still could
not do it -- looks like a special tool is required there. Tried it
several times, then asked another mechanic at the dealership, who told
me that he never disconnected the wires. "Just unscrew and lift the
cover -- you'll be able to pull the filter out".
It's odd that the manual says one thing and the practice another.
Today, I did it, at last -- as pao and that mechanic suggested.
Carefully, I pulled the filter out and inspected. Even cleaned the
box under it. It feels good -- now I know how to do it.
Thank you, pao, for the good advice!
2. A hole in the rear lift gate
-------------------------------
I am still exploring the car from all angles, and today noticed an odd
hole in the body of the rear lift gate. It doesn't look like a
"manufactured detail", but I would like to ask people to check their
Maxxes and tell me if you happen to have similar holes.
So, lift the gate so that the horizontal "chrome strip" is at your
eyes' level. There are several (5?) screws going up from under the
strip -- move your eyes toward the right-most one. In my Maxx, there
is a horizontal elongated hole there, in the metal crease under the
strip. Do you see anything similar in yours?
There is a small chance that this is how the car is made and the hole
is there for a useful purpose, like water draining.
If this hole is not there by design, I am at a loss how it came to be.
The only explanation I have now is that the gate was repainted, and
prior to that, sanded, with the sander cutting into the thin metal in
the crease.
If so, I'll need to figure out how to patch it.
3. General feelings
-------------------
After a month of owning, I like Maxx very much. It's an extremely
utilitarian car; drives well, is comfortable and feels good. Too bad
it was not selling well and went away.
For fairness sake, I should compare Maxx with my 2005 Base Sedans.
Maxx feels heavier, and its engine makes you aware of more power.
But, oddly, the sedans move smoother and accelerate better --
i.e. with their 145 HP 4-cylinder engine as opposed to the 205-HP V6
in Maxx. "Smoother" means that I and my passenger feel more of road
unevenness in Maxx, compared to the sedans.
On the whole, I like both models a lot.
it could use either an alignment or balance and rotate tires.
Before you do that, consider investing about $120 into a car jack (or
better two) and a good torque wrench and, at least, retorquing the
wheels yourself (with 100 lb*ft, which can be found in the manual).
If you care about your tires and brakes, you will be rotating tires
yourself or retorquing the wheels after somebody else did. It is also
a good thing to have in your background should you happen to get a
flat on the road.
Good luck with your Maxx!
It is possible this is a slight manufacturing defect. I read an article somewhere about the Maxx Hatch. The outer shell is made out of aluminium. They had to develop a new manufacturing process to make the hatch shape because aluminum is difficult material to stamp. As long as the hole is painted it should not cause any problems.
There are 4 slotted drain holes underneath the bottom edge where the inner and outer shell are crimped together.
I'll go check my Maxx for the four drain slots right away, out of curiosity.
As for the hole in my lift gate: yes, it is painted all over and car has 56K on the odometer without me seeing any problem with it. I'll watch that hole, dirt and water, and think if I should patch it (would be not hard). I was very puzzled about the origin; your point about the manufacturing process makes sense.
I once had a Saturn that registered too cool on the temp gauge, mechanic diagnosed it as a thermostat issue. My initial thought on the Maxx was it was the gauge since there was no reading, but when I turned the car off and stepped out I could hear the fan. So is it the thermostat? How cheap are they on Malibus? On the Saturn it was pretty cheap, but that was probably 7 years ago.
Thanks!
as far as oil leaks....havent spilled a drop yet........
They replaced that, we took the car home and all was good for about two weeks, then it started acting up again. I even gave my wife a small hand-held cassette recorder, and she has made an audio recording of three of these "incidents". They sound like you are running over one of those rumble strips that they have along the edge of the highway. The noise is really, really loud, along with the strong vibration in the steering column. She did say that if she tries to apply the brakes to slow down while the car is having one of these fits, that the brake pedal is real stiff. The dealer we bought the car from is cluless, and can't offer any more advice, because they have no fault codes to go on. Anybody have any other suggestions that we could look at? I'm stumped, and the meter is running on my extended warranty, with less than 30,000 miles to go on it.
Thanks!
I have a band filter wrench of the correct size to start the old filter rotating and the
rest of the way by hand after I've already drained the oil at the drain plug. The way it is mounted allows not spilling oil all over the place.
The plastic oil pan I use fits under nice and I first break the drain plug loose and then slide it in place under it. I also love the engine oil reset at the console that warns you in advance how much time remaining for when to change it (based on engine revolutions and outside temp). Depending on your size you may wish to drive onto a 2X6 board under each wheel to gain a little extra room. (try sliding under it first to check before you try to change the oil)
So, there are two things to unscrew under the engine: the plug and the filter?
In a 2.2L Ecotec Malibu, there is one thing to unscrew there -- the plug: the filter
is at the top of the engine. I glanced under Maxx (last fall) and noticed only the
filter -- I thought I would unscrew it and the oil comes out. There is a separate plug there, then? If so, I assume I unscrew it first, let the oil drain -- and then remove the filter?
Being your engine is different than mine I also can''t comment on the room under the car or locations . In my case, with the V6, the filter is under the engine and vertical so little to no oil spills when you unscrew it. Sounds like you've never done this before so maybe a motorhead friend can help the first time. Good luck!!!
(On 2.2L, the plug's head is 15 mm if I remember my wrench choice correctly. It is probably the same on 3.5L -- if it is there at all, which now sounds it is.)