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Also wondering if anyone knows how big of a tire and what wheel/offset you can put on a 3/4 ton without a lift.The 245's look to small on this truck.I wish they would have used a larger wheel width on the stock alloys.
Thanks Ed
GM Buypower does work. Found my new truck on a dealer lot 15 miles out of town using it.
I had no problems with it using Netscape 4.5.
It's pretty cool. You can even see the window sticker for the truck in question. Using GM Buypower I was able to find two nearby dealers with the exact same truck, and wrangle between the two to get the best price.
I think you need to upgrade your browser.
Thank you
Sedan
So much for the theory that the 5.3L is gutless.
anyone who has driven both say this: the 5.3 has more punch in it than the old 350. And gets 1 or 2 mpg better.
glad you're having fun, Quad!
Originally wanted a 1/2 ton LT stepside...I see they have it now..(edmunds.com)..but I have myself worked up about the 6 litre..I can't turn back now! Chose 4:10's also...not for towing..Just for Raw Power in the city...shouldn't affect the gas much..oh well...Spend it now..Live it to the max...May not be no tomorrow..
Any corrections or inputs would be appreciated.
Thanks for looking
Tim
Who says beer and computers don't mix??
yesterday said it was made june 18th. anybody
know how much longer I have to wait?
I was pleased to get the truck at $200 over invoice. Ordered around middle of May I believe.
Good to be part of the group who have their truck and not just hoping mine will come. Talk to ya'll again soon.
My complaint comes from the dealer, who turned what should have been the best/easiest buying experience into one that makes me think of avoiding GM products in the future (and I've never owned anything but).
The deal was for $800 over invoice. Not a great deal, but as good as I could get around here. And I looked! I ordered in early April and it was built in May; but I had to wait until late June because of a rail car shortage.
Anyway, when I went to pick it up, the car was $288 more than my figures showed. Turns out that yes, I was getting it for $800 over invoice, but that invoice included $288 for advertising under a new co-op plan that the dealer was part of. I told the sales manager that advertising wasn't part of the original deal (they matched another dealer's offer), but neither he nor the owner cared. The owner went so far as to say that he DIDN'T want me to buy the truck since he could get more for it anyway and he didn't want the bad sales survey that I would certainly return to GM. He said I was welcome to go to another dealer (like I really wanted to wait until October).
So, essentially, the sales manager and (part) owner were both willing to give up over 20 years of customer loyalty for $288.
I decided to take the truck anyway (figuring I'd spend at least that much after new-car price increases for 2000), I didn't know if the old dealer would make the same deal, and I needed the truck. In addition, I have shell being held for me that I bought ahead of time in order to ax out my GM rebate.
So, I got an ok deal, not great: $2400 under sticker, $1080 over invoice. Now I get to spend the rest of my life gladly trashing the reputation of the dealer for screwing me and changing the deal.
By the way: What are your opinions of LoJack? I think I might get one, as my truck will always be outside (and there ahve been cars stolen from around here in past years).
Richard
V8s are really the "same" engines (OK, the 6.0L has cast iron heads). The 4.8L & 5.3L share identical exhaust systems, auto & 5 spd trannies &
transfer cases (4WD). The 6.0L (with cast iron heads) has unique (HD) exhaust system, auto & 5 spd trannies & transfer case (4WD) and an auto tranny fluid temp gauge.
The higher the ratio (3.42 less than 4.1) the greater the torque delivered to the rear wheel. More torque means better pulling and starting performance. So, if you plan on pulling anything over a 1000 pounds on a regular basis, get the 4.1 ratio. You'll love the way your truck pulls at lights and up hills.
If you want the best gas mileage possible, get the low ratio dif (3.42) or lowest dif that allows you to pull (by GM specs) the load you plan. Your mileage at highway speeds will be 1-5 miles per gallon better depending on engine (4.3 to 6.0 litter), maintenance, terrain (hilly or flat), weather (wind, temp and ice), and driving habits.
In a nut shell, Torque is a function of horsepower. Using the NFL equation (Hp=NFL/5250) for horsepower shows the direct relationship between RPM (n) times torque(force [f]X length[L]). The more horsepower to the rear wheels the greater your top end speed (and to a limited extent, the better your mpg). When you raise the dif ratio (ie. 3.42 to 4.1) you trade speed and mileage for agility and strength (ie. quick starts and easy trailering).
I hope this helps. Like I said, its been ten years. So if I've made a blatant error, somebody please correct me. From what I remember this is true and what I have based my own decisions upon. This isn't all the facts but should be enough to help with your choices.
Phil
That's why I preach 4:10's!
Steve
2wd. Had tires replaced twice(General 255/70R16) as a probable cause. No luck. Had wheel hubs replaced(Dealer reported Factory used out of date
hubs????)Shackles added to rear leaf springs to.
No luck. Dealer had a Dealer GM engineer drive and got shaky ride. These
were his suggested fixes. No luck. Also engineer
noted bushing on rack-n-pinion steering need upgrading. Not due till years end. My truck made
in Canada too. Shakes 60-70 mph on freeway. Feels like holding on to a jack hammer. To make it stop,
I would have to go below 60mph. All this took the
dealer 8 weeks this time. Fifth time taken in for this problem. Have case# with GM. Ready to get rid
of truck. Have read others with this same problem.
It IS in the literature and Kelly Blue Book.
Richard
Richard
Talk about getting more than you asked for
Those #'s are pretty good
I can live with that.
Come on Pontiac!!..(Michigan)
Pump that Baby out for me!!
Again, I'm tapping into some ten year old knowledge. Sounds to me that you are acheiving harmonic resonance at the 60-70 MPH range. This occurs when the frequency of the vidration "rebounds" onto itself and causes amplitude doubling. Thats a lot of engineering talk to say that at 60-70 mph your truck is trying to tear itself apart. The cause could be several things: poorly manufactured or low grade tires. This causes a standing wave (imagine a saw blade) to develop in your tires at speeds above 60 mph. The shocks and springs on the front of your truck are not what they should be to handle the amount of sprung weight (did you add a brush guard or winch to your front end?). The other causes could be structural defects: soft spot or poor joints on the frame. The fact that the engineer recognized you needed a stronger steering bushing indicates that a strong feed-back force is occuring above design specifications for the bushing installed in your truck.
Bents rods, broken tire strands, bad front and rear axle alignment or something as simple as mud on the rims or unbalanced tires(lost a wheel weight) could also cause the problem. These are all theoretical possibilities. Chances are most of these problems have already been checked by the serviceman your working with.
If you are finding a lot of C/K parts and other subline items on your truck, I would take a good look at the springs and shocks to make sure they are what was called for in the original design specs and not just something that "will do". My 2 cents worth.
Phil
Having read all the rest I could find on the subject on front end vibration, the answer to your problem is three fold. 1) replace hubs-B8 hubs not self-centering (bad) B9 hubs self centering (good) 2) get rid of General tires that came with truck-tires are showing a premature run-out- Firestones that came on later trucks not having same problem. 3) Rack and pinion preload not properly adjusted-get service department to adjust (might have to pay for this as no TSB published to date). Hope that helps more. I typed in a roll-up of vibration problems and some reported fixes to date under the same topic "'99 Silverado vibrations".
Phil
they all are based on the same design though. bullet proof have not seen many probs with the 5.7l in the vettes. which is what they are based after.
But they are problems you are not likely to see since it's harder to abuse the truck engines.
The #1 problem is bent pushrods, from over-revving the engine. You can't do this with an automatic at all. You can't do it under acceleration with a manual, due to a rev limiter. But you can over-rev it if you have a manual, and make a down-shift while the engine is at red-line.
But the good news, is that pushrods, at $6 a piece are a cheap "fuse." That is, if something is going to blow, you want it to be the pushrods, and not your cam, valves, or pistons.
Phil (pjb0422)
ps. I have a '99 Silverado LS, 5.3l, auto, Z-71, locking diff, Meadow Green, ext cab, short bed. I love it!
Silverado
at Topic # 775 TRUCK PICTURES
I have a 1997 Dodge Ram SS/T. Looks and drives great but it has been in the shop 25 times in 2 years. Basically, it is a P.O.S.!
if you don't have
4-wheel drive. The 99 locking diffs have
heavy duty plates and last
longer then previous years
Especially with Auto-trac...why have 4WD and Locking diff??
But if you have $285 burning a hole in your pocket...SEND IT TO ME!!
Tim
At least with a $285 lim slip, your "4wd" truck will have at "3wd".
That is why lim slip or locking or Torsen diffs are so popular.....
Oh well
That's why it's an option..for people like you and me.
Neither one of us are wrong...just different prefs. Locking Diffs are a pain to maintain in the long haul for the usage they get on average.
I'll be passing once more.
Thanks for the Input.
Tim
Even my wife likes driving (and riding in) it.
The dogs like it too. They can't drive it, though.
For the price, nothing comes close. Heck, even not considering price, nothing comes close.
Richard
Now to decide: Fleetside or stepside?
And like some of you folks, I prefer as many wheels engaged as possible when I need it.
For instance, my Father in Law tried to pull my boat out of the water one time with his 1/2 ton, 4wd, no locking diff. Spun one front and one rear tire. My wife returned w/suburban, and granted its heavier, but all 4 wheels took about a 1/2 turn and then walked out.
I wont get quite same results w/Silverado, but at least 3 good wheels.
99 5.3L 4x4
Thanks for your help
Also note, some corvette owners found that they lost power when that added a bigger racing exhaust, and I don't remember anyone saying they gained more then 5 or so horse power.
, no other protection whatsoever .
Another area that seems destined to stone chip is the rocker panel turn under . If you look at the F-150s any under facing area is painted with that rubberized crinkle paint.
Installed the factory mudguards and they seem to keep the gravel away a bit. (You would think a 30k truck would come with these)
I don't really want to put fender flares or running boards on the truck because I like the look of it just the way it is.
Any fixes or ideas would be appreciated.
Steve