Since I was planning on bringing my 6 in for regular maintenance, I wanted the service manager to look at and document all of my other issues again (clutch shudder, brake squeal on slow sharp turns, rattle at low RPM). I like to have him do this just to cover my you-know-what for later on should the car fall apart completely.
Since the Mazda Tech Line gave my service manager the brush off when he called in about the clutch ("if you can't duplicate the problem, then it must be normal operating issues"), I called MazdaUSA to talk with them about it myself.
They gave me the same line I have been hearing all along. Denial that there is a problem with other cars, and that if the problem cannot be duplicated consistently, they can't fix it.
How do I combat this attitude? The problem happens enough in the course of a day that I am gun shy about pulling into traffic, yet I can't duplicate it consistently.
I told MazdaUSA that I know for a fact that other people are getting clutch components replaced for the same issue. They "noted" that in my "file".
Very frustrating. I feel like I've got this great car, but I haven't been able to take advantage of it's full potential because of this.
BTW - All I have ever driven is clutches. I know how to drive a clutch well. My Mazda 626 has 150,000 miles on it and the clutch is still in fine condition.
I picked up my 6s on Tuesday. That very night when I went to lock it, I noticed that the front passenger blink didn't flash with the others. I unlocked and jumped inside and used the right turn signal. Yup, it blinked fast indicating there was no short in the line. Next morning the techs told me to come in and yes, I couldn't duplicate it but they changed the bulb. I watched when the tech was doing it and it seemed that something else was up but I didn't think about it again, until tonight.
Leaving work in the light rain but serious humidity, I unlocked the car and again the pass indicator didn't flash. I jumped in and used the turn signal but this time it worked. WTF? Anyone else have this issue?
My 6S had the same problem with under 3000 milies. Local dealer replaced complete headlight unit without me asking a word.....Also replaced leaking washer fluid bottle, stating that it was a recall item. Good luck.
I am very pleased to report that I got a call today from the service manager at my local Mazda dealership. It turns out that my phone call yesterday did not fall on deaf ears after all.
Mazda called my dealership today and told them that they have indeed been replacing the clutch plate with a new part in cars that have been experiencing the clutch chatter problem. I interpret the word "new" to mean a different part rather than simply replacing the old one with same part. The service manager said something about this being a "clutch counter measure".
I've got to give Mazda credit on this. They sent the part to the dealership today, and my car should be fixed next week.
Last August, after selling my '91 Protegé DX--a wonderful car, I was ready to buy a Mazda 6i until I test drove one. The "throttle lag" made the car seem initially slower than the old Protegé for a few seconds. I was really surprised that the car's off the line performance so poor.
I ended up buying a Honda Accord 4 cyl. AT instead and have no regrets. I can tell you that there is absolutely no lag in accelerating the Accord which also has drive by wire. Mazda really should fix this problem which could also be caused by an automatic transmission that's poorly matched to the Mazda's 4 cylinder engine.
I think Mazdas are great cars but there really is (or was) a problem with initial acceleration......Richard
I also drove an accord coupe 4cyl. and you are right. There is no acceleration lag on the Honda. I own a Mazda6s V6 and there is a little lag but it isn't very noticeable. I also think the Mazda handles and performs better than the accord.
every time you get in the car. Up to a certain point, the handling difference is negligible. If you aren't happy with the power delivery, that would be quite a compromise just to get better handling.
I think the Mazda 6i handles and brakes slightly better than the the 4 cyl. Accord; however, I really couldn't live with the restrained feeling on acceleration--the Accord felt MUCH faster and smoother in my test drives.
Also, the Mazda 6i needs a 5 speed automatic--the transmission is probably an old Ford design which isn't the worst thing in the world but it's clunky compared with the Accord's smooth-shifting 5 speed. Along those lines, I had a Ford once and that's enough!
Also, my Accord EX-L has 4 wheel disk brakes which are quite good and the handling and ride in the Accord are more like the Mazda than the Toyota Camry which I also tested and rejected because it felt too soft and mushy. The Accord was the best balanced car and that's why I bought it.
Still, I'll always like Mazdas after my experience with the Protegé........Richard
I have a Mazda6s with a 5 speed auto and 4 wheel disc brakes and they both seem to be very smooth working.I am also willing to bet your 4 cyl. Honda Exl costs much more than my completely loaded Mazda V6. Don't get me wrong the Accord is an excellent car,but this is just my opinion.
The 4-cylinder Accord does not have drive-by-wire. Only the V6 gets it.
I have to agree that the Accord has better acceleration, but it also has a bigger engine that gets better mileage. The 6 beats the Accord hands down in handling and styling though. I own a 6i 5MT with sport package and has previously driven an Accord EX-L for several months. Both cars are good choices, but the 6 has better driving dynamics. I think the EX-L is actually cheaper than a full-loaded 6i, let alone the 6s.
many a forum have been shut down trying to hash that one out. Even the major magazines have a hard time picking a winner. It all comes down to personal preference. I'd love a 5MT 6i hatch. It's back on my list when I get tired of my SI.
I think the Accord might cost more--certainly mine did when I bought it last August because I purchased one of the first 2004s and the Mazdas were all discounted 2003s with cash back, loyalty discounts, etc.
It's hard to compare prices because Honda sells clearly defined models that are fully equipped rather than Mazda's option packages that were somewhat confusing.
My '04 Accord EX-L 4 cyl., AT, side curtain airbags (standard) cost me, at the start of that model year, $22,700 including transportation, but before tax, license, and $50 in doc and other fees. Current prices for 2004s seem to be about $1000 to $1500 less with so little time left in the 2004 model year.
The Accord EX-L is a fully equipped car with too many features to list here, but it can be compared to the Mazda 6i with whatever option packages apply.
Please note that even if the Accord costs more, its resale is higher and much of that extra cost will come back when the car is sold or traded. When I sold my excellent, '91 Mazda Protege, I got a decent price; however, similar Honda Civics were priced significantly higher by Kelly Blue Book and others. In my opinion, the '91 Mazda Protege was a much better car than the '91 Honda Civic--I test drove the Civic at the time. The 1991 Civic was in its last year and the Mazda was a much newer and better car, but people are willing to pay more for a used Honda.......Richard
I have a 6S, 5 speed auto and everytime on startup, the engine revs to about 1500 rpm, then backs off to about a 1000. one time the engine nearly cut off until it threw itself back up to about 100 rpm. this only happened once and ive had it for about a month now. I was wondering if the revving is normal and I'm just paranoid or if anyone else is experiencing this as well?
I have a 6S, 5 speed auto and everytime on startup, the engine revs to about 1500 rpm, then backs off to about a 1000. one time the engine nearly cut off until it threw itself back up to about 100 rpm. this only happened once and ive had it for about a month now. I was wondering if the revving is normal and I'm just paranoid or if anyone else is experiencing this as well?
mazda folks aren't really an odd bunch, maybe just a little unique since they obviously prefer a "drivers car"....now Saturn and Subaru people are beyond odd. haha
I went and drove the 2005 Subaru GT Saturday just for fun. While it's nice car, I was disappointed by the low-RPM response if the engine. The power delivery seemed very non-linear. Sure, it's got 250HP but seems really sluggish off the line. I drove the AT so I suppose it would be better with a MT where you can keep the RPMs up in the boost zone. For $32000 I expected more. I guess I'll add this to my list of turbo-engined cars that I don't really like.
...don't make me get ugly. (I'm ignoring the snickers, thankewverymuch.)
This is not a comparison board, nor is it a place to assess the traits of owners of various makes/models. I'm sure those having problems with their 6 would appreciate it.
Since you posted last I've been trying to understand what you mean. I know what you're talking about but for me it very sutle. Hopefully your's is not pernounced. Anyway I'm approaching 3000 miles and will need to take it in for an oil change I'll have them look into it then. I'll post back what they tell me.
On my Mazda 6s the engine immobilizer light flashes after the key is removed and continues to flash until I again insert the key and start the car. It stays on indefinetly. The service manager told me that this is normal that it flashes so you know that the security is on. It is now flashing as I speak sitting in the driveway. Is this normal as I was told?
Yes. The only time it does not flash is when the vehicle is running. The system is armed as soon as you shut the motor off and stays armed until re-started.
I have a 2003 Mazda 6i with the 2.3 4 cyl. My dealer usually charges me between $35 - $40 for oil changes. I have 15,600 miles on my car. Can I have this service performed at places like Valvoline or Jiffy Lube? As you all know this car has the special cartridge oil filter and special o rings, or so Mazda says. That's why I take it to the dealer. I'd like to save a few bucks whenever I can. Thanks.
I too have the 6i & my dealer charges the same, but they are constantly sending me coupons for $10 off. The coupons look like general Mazda coupons with my dealer's name on it. Are you on your dealer's mailing list?
Yes, I am on their mailing list. It's been a few months since I received a coupon. Anyway, I don't think the quick lube places are ramped up on this car.
I just paid $35 for my first oil change and I don't like it. It's piracy. At the same time, I don't trust the quickie joints and I'm too lazy to do it myself. So I'll just keep payin'it and then go complain and whine about it on Edmunds Town Hall..... God, I love the internet !!!!!
Also replaced leaking washer fluid bottle, stating that it was a recall item. Good luck.
Were you experiencing any problems with your washer jets by any chance? What year is your 6s?
I went to use the windshield washers this morning and the pressure was extremely low. It was so low that the fluid barely hit the bottom of the glass. A humming sound was audible through the radio as well telling me that this might be a bad pump instead of just the bottle.
"turtleman" Yes, my 04-6sAT does the same thing. The engine revs to 1500 RPM, then drops to ~200 RPM, then recovers to ~1000 RPM. Twice it has actually stalled, both times in the morning, in the garage.
Speaking of which, I'm due for my first oil change and am wondering if there are any PCM updates for my car. Is there any way to find out what the current versions are and verify if the dealer actually checks them?
I've also had some issues with very rough downshifts, especially when braking harder than normal, but sometimes out of the blue. Feels like the engine is throwing itself around in there. Anyone else experienced this?
I'm mostly happy with the car, but still getting used to an AT (after 12 years of driving MT).
I usually pay around $28 For oil changes with our dealer. I get this price by using a coupon I get from Mazda. We tried to get Oil Can Henry's to change the oil, but they still haven't gotten the necessary filters and oil to do it. We have had our 6 since March of '03.
I tried finding out via this discussion on what the paint chipping looked like on other people's cars. I have about 100 or so small white specs on the right side of my mazda6. However, not one spec on the left. Is this similar to other people?
I had the door sash recall fixed 4/5 months ago and I just noticed all these white specs last month. Anyone think this is related to the recall or something completely different.
I have had my engine shutdown one morning once as well. I have not observed the rev issue, however.
Let me say I do love my 6 immensely, but let me honestly say there is one thing that I have noticed during aggresive driving that is quite annoying. I have the 6s, 3.0L, 5 speed AT. Try this: go around a corner in second gear - typical, right? If you are going around 20 mph, and want to downshift into first for some extra go - since we know the low end torque is marginal, at best - by the time the engine quickly hits redline and you are ready to shift into second, it refuses to do it!! I know there is not an automatic upshift when you hit redline like some SportShifts - which is great for enthusiasts. Upon checking the owners manual, there was a note that said something like "to protect the engine you can't downshift more than 2 gears at a time. Wait a few seconds and then make your third downshift." The engine computer seems to implementing this "safeguard" with the 2-1-2 shifts close to redline, however that is contrary to protecting the engine! You do get the extra kick you wanted, but the car continues to bounce off the rev limiter for a couple second before allowing you to upshift to second! You either wait, or lift off the gas and then shift into second, like a MT car. I thought this was a fluke, but it does this continually in that scenario, almost as if there's a computer bug that is exposed in that instance. Anyone else seen this??
Anyway, one last note for 6 owners out there. I also noticed the car didn't really accelerate well on the highway in gears 3-5. Dropping into thrid and flooring it around 70 mph didn't help matters much, because the tach needle would climb very slowly. Road & Track test numbers (Feb 2003) 0 to 100 mph test numbers confirm this - it goes from being 1 sec behind the Altima and Accord at 60mph to 6 seconds by 100. Almost as if the car was being stiffled for air. I live in South Florida, so the summer heat/humidity doesn't help at all. So I ordered a K&N air filter - they didn't stock them in Pep Boys, AutoZOne, and the like so I got it direct from K&N's website. Wow!, its like the car went from being asthmatic to having marathon-runner lungs! It accelerates strongly to redline now in every gear. I did let up after hitting 100 though....I STRONGLY recommend this modest($55) and simple do it yourself upgrade. I look for 3.5SE Altimas every chance I get now!!
I got my 6 back Friday with the new clutch plate installed. The car drives like a dream. Similar to what someone else posted, it is going to take a little bit to get used to the clutch actually working properly.
Of course, the service dept. couldn't duplicate the rattle at low RPM or the brake noise on slow, tight turns.
I am so grateful to have found this board. Like someone said earlier - gotta love the internet!
You know, the paint on my car is holding out fine (03 M6 purchased in March '03)... but this reminds me of a something that happened a while back...
My employer had hired a contractor to clear the brush in the lot next to where everyone parked. They brought in one of those huge brush mowing rigs. Luckily, someone was outside at the time and observed that when they were mowing, they were too close to the cars at the back of the lot, and were throwing up thousands of tiny little pebbles which were blasting the cars like a mini sandstorm.
Everyone's car looked as you described. 100's of tiny little paint chips, all on one side of their car.
I have the same car/engine as yours and I also live in S. Florida. I was thinking of also getting a K&N air filter for my car but heard that all though they let in more air for the engine,they didn't seem to filter the small particles of dirt as well. I'm still thinking about it,but the fact that your acceleration improved was a big plus.
Never mind on my question about the bad washer jets. I looked at the system and found that the hose going from the bottle to the jets was pinched in the hood hinge. I moved it over to where it should be and now have full pressure again.
Still 0 problems and an infinite number of smiles with the car!
Surging engines and weird startup idling (to the point of occasional stalls) are all corrected by the upgrades to the car's PCM (basically a software upgrade for the engine management system).
Take the car in for this update (takes a few minutes - depending on how busy the dealership is).First confirm with your dealership that they have the newest version of the software - many are released - perhaps 1 a month, if not more. If your dealer is clueless, or pretends to be, its time to find a service manager/dealer elsewhere a little more up with the times
Oil changes and filters - never trust the quick-lube places. If you can't do it yourself, take it to a trusted local mechanic. There are NO aftermarket filters for the cartridge filter system employed byt he 6i.
The 6s has numerous replacement filters available - corss-reference the car and available filter lists at your local auto parts store. Some aftermarket filters are better than the (quite nice) stock/Mazda/Motorcraft 6s filter. Try the K&N - it has a bolt for easy removal and access.
If you must take it to a quicky-lube place, buy and take along your own filter, and ensure they use 5W20 oil (not 5W30 or 10W30). 0W20 synthetic is also perfectly acceptable.
I don't know if the K&N air filter will not filter small particles as well. I'm due for my first service. Do you think I would get a straight answer from the dealer if I asked?
I have a pretty heavy foot so I would not be the best judge on gas mileage. I don't think it has improved. However, as I am coming out of a Chrysler 300M that got even worse gas mileage (again with the heavy foot combination), its better than that.
Did you notice the same 2-1-2 shift issue? Does anyone think that may be, or can be, improved with a software upgrade?
What dealer do you go to? I honestly think most of them don't know squat about any of the aftermarket products. As far as the shift issue your having,I don't seem to notice much of a problem with my car. Please keep me informed about the K&N air filter info.
We have had our new 6 for only 10 days & already it's in the shop because we had the same problem. We noticed it within an hour after we drove it off the lot. We live in Florida so it's very humid & it seems it happens mostly at night when it gets really muggy. I've never had a car that did this before, it's very annoying. We love the car in every way except for this problem. But to be honest, had we known about this fogging thing before we bought it, we would'nt have bought it. I guess we'll just have to live with it.
I went back and read the messages about the fog problem, but I am not clear as to what the problem is. Can you elaborate what is happening to your car that caused you to take it to the shop?
when we run the A/C ( even on auto ) alot of condensation occurs on the outside of the windshield. we live in SW Florida & this happens mostly at night for some reason, maybe it's alot more humid at that time of day. we did notice that air was coming out of the vents used to defrost the windshield though, as well as the A/C vents. there was also some kind of ringing noise that would come & go on the passengers side in the dash board. maybe the A/C has something to do with it. in any case the dealership called & said the car is ready to be picked up tomorrow. if the problem persists i guess we can chalk it up to poor engineering & design.
Comments
Since the Mazda Tech Line gave my service manager the brush off when he called in about the clutch ("if you can't duplicate the problem, then it must be normal operating issues"), I called MazdaUSA to talk with them about it myself.
They gave me the same line I have been hearing all along. Denial that there is a problem with other cars, and that if the problem cannot be duplicated consistently, they can't fix it.
How do I combat this attitude? The problem happens enough in the course of a day that I am gun shy about pulling into traffic, yet I can't duplicate it consistently.
I told MazdaUSA that I know for a fact that other people are getting clutch components replaced for the same issue. They "noted" that in my "file".
Very frustrating. I feel like I've got this great car, but I haven't been able to take advantage of it's full potential because of this.
BTW - All I have ever driven is clutches. I know how to drive a clutch well. My Mazda 626 has 150,000 miles on it and the clutch is still in fine condition.
Thanks for listening...
Leaving work in the light rain but serious humidity, I unlocked the car and again the pass indicator didn't flash. I jumped in and used the turn signal but this time it worked. WTF? Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks!
'04 6s
Mazda called my dealership today and told them that they have indeed been replacing the clutch plate with a new part in cars that have been experiencing the clutch chatter problem. I interpret the word "new" to mean a different part rather than simply replacing the old one with same part. The service manager said something about this being a "clutch counter measure".
I've got to give Mazda credit on this. They sent the part to the dealership today, and my car should be fixed next week.
I will let you all know how it turns out.
I ended up buying a Honda Accord 4 cyl. AT instead and have no regrets. I can tell you that there is absolutely no lag in accelerating the Accord which also has drive by wire. Mazda really should fix this problem which could also be caused by an automatic transmission that's poorly matched to the Mazda's 4 cylinder engine.
I think Mazdas are great cars but there really is (or was) a problem with initial acceleration......Richard
Also, the Mazda 6i needs a 5 speed automatic--the transmission is probably an old Ford design which isn't the worst thing in the world but it's clunky compared with the Accord's smooth-shifting 5 speed. Along those lines, I had a Ford once and that's enough!
Also, my Accord EX-L has 4 wheel disk brakes which are quite good and the handling and ride in the Accord are more like the Mazda than the Toyota Camry which I also tested and rejected because it felt too soft and mushy. The Accord was the best balanced car and that's why I bought it.
Still, I'll always like Mazdas after my experience with the Protegé........Richard
I have to agree that the Accord has better acceleration, but it also has a bigger engine that gets better mileage. The 6 beats the Accord hands down in handling and styling though. I own a 6i 5MT with sport package and has previously driven an Accord EX-L for several months. Both cars are good choices, but the 6 has better driving dynamics. I think the EX-L is actually cheaper than a full-loaded 6i, let alone the 6s.
It's hard to compare prices because Honda sells clearly defined models that are fully equipped rather than Mazda's option packages that were somewhat confusing.
My '04 Accord EX-L 4 cyl., AT, side curtain airbags (standard) cost me, at the start of that model year, $22,700 including transportation, but before tax, license, and $50 in doc and other fees. Current prices for 2004s seem to be about $1000 to $1500 less with so little time left in the 2004 model year.
The Accord EX-L is a fully equipped car with too many features to list here, but it can be compared to the Mazda 6i with whatever option packages apply.
Please note that even if the Accord costs more, its resale is higher and much of that extra cost will come back when the car is sold or traded. When I sold my excellent, '91 Mazda Protege, I got a decent price; however, similar Honda Civics were priced significantly higher by Kelly Blue Book and others. In my opinion, the '91 Mazda Protege was a much better car than the '91 Honda Civic--I test drove the Civic at the time. The 1991 Civic was in its last year and the Mazda was a much newer and better car, but people are willing to pay more for a used Honda.......Richard
It is, and maybe the solution to problems is to trade for an Accord
(OK, I know I shouldn't have done that--don't be too angry with me)
As for the oddness of Subaru people, Subaru purposely markets to certain lifestyles. Maybe the "odd" lifestyle is one of them.
This is not a comparison board, nor is it a place to assess the traits of owners of various makes/models. I'm sure those having problems with their 6 would appreciate it.
Thanks for your cooperation.
Were you experiencing any problems with your washer jets by any chance? What year is your 6s?
I went to use the windshield washers this morning and the pressure was extremely low. It was so low that the fluid barely hit the bottom of the glass. A humming sound was audible through the radio as well telling me that this might be a bad pump instead of just the bottle.
Anyone else seen this?
Maybe I'll try dropping a Viagra in the bottle...
Speaking of which, I'm due for my first oil change and am wondering if there are any PCM updates for my car. Is there any way to find out what the current versions are and verify if the dealer actually checks them?
I've also had some issues with very rough downshifts, especially when braking harder than normal, but sometimes out of the blue. Feels like the engine is throwing itself around in there. Anyone else experienced this?
I'm mostly happy with the car, but still getting used to an AT (after 12 years of driving MT).
Thanks in advance.
I had the door sash recall fixed 4/5 months ago and I just noticed all these white specs last month. Anyone think this is related to the recall or something completely different.
Replies would be appreciated.
Let me say I do love my 6 immensely, but let me honestly say there is one thing that I have noticed during aggresive driving that is quite annoying. I have the 6s, 3.0L, 5 speed AT. Try this: go around a corner in second gear - typical, right? If you are going around 20 mph, and want to downshift into first for some extra go - since we know the low end torque is marginal, at best - by the time the engine quickly hits redline and you are ready to shift into second, it refuses to do it!! I know there is not an automatic upshift when you hit redline like some SportShifts - which is great for enthusiasts. Upon checking the owners manual, there was a note that said something like "to protect the engine you can't downshift more than 2 gears at a time. Wait a few seconds and then make your third downshift." The engine computer seems to implementing this "safeguard" with the 2-1-2 shifts close to redline, however that is contrary to protecting the engine! You do get the extra kick you wanted, but the car continues to bounce off the rev limiter for a couple second before allowing you to upshift to second! You either wait, or lift off the gas and then shift into second, like a MT car. I thought this was a fluke, but it does this continually in that scenario, almost as if there's a computer bug that is exposed in that instance. Anyone else seen this??
Anyway, one last note for 6 owners out there. I also noticed the car didn't really accelerate well on the highway in gears 3-5. Dropping into thrid and flooring it around 70 mph didn't help matters much, because the tach needle would climb very slowly. Road & Track test numbers (Feb 2003) 0 to 100 mph test numbers confirm this - it goes from being 1 sec behind the Altima and Accord at 60mph to 6 seconds by 100. Almost as if the car was being stiffled for air. I live in South Florida, so the summer heat/humidity doesn't help at all. So I ordered a K&N air filter - they didn't stock them in Pep Boys, AutoZOne, and the like so I got it direct from K&N's website. Wow!, its like the car went from being asthmatic to having marathon-runner lungs! It accelerates strongly to redline now in every gear. I did let up after hitting 100 though....I STRONGLY recommend this modest($55) and simple do it yourself upgrade. I look for 3.5SE Altimas every chance I get now!!
Hot 6
Of course, the service dept. couldn't duplicate the rattle at low RPM or the brake noise on slow, tight turns.
I am so grateful to have found this board. Like someone said earlier - gotta love the internet!
Zoom, Zoom!
My employer had hired a contractor to clear the brush in the lot next to where everyone parked. They brought in one of those huge brush mowing rigs. Luckily, someone was outside at the time and observed that when they were mowing, they were too close to the cars at the back of the lot, and were throwing up thousands of tiny little pebbles which were blasting the cars like a mini sandstorm.
Everyone's car looked as you described. 100's of tiny little paint chips, all on one side of their car.
Could something like this have happened?
Still 0 problems and an infinite number of smiles with the car!
Take the car in for this update (takes a few minutes - depending on how busy the dealership is).First confirm with your dealership that they have the newest version of the software - many are released - perhaps 1 a month, if not more. If your dealer is clueless, or pretends to be, its time to find a service manager/dealer elsewhere a little more up with the times
Oil changes and filters - never trust the quick-lube places. If you can't do it yourself, take it to a trusted local mechanic. There are NO aftermarket filters for the cartridge filter system employed byt he 6i.
The 6s has numerous replacement filters available - corss-reference the car and available filter lists at your local auto parts store. Some aftermarket filters are better than the (quite nice) stock/Mazda/Motorcraft 6s filter. Try the K&N - it has a bolt for easy removal and access.
If you must take it to a quicky-lube place, buy and take along your own filter, and ensure they use 5W20 oil (not 5W30 or 10W30). 0W20 synthetic is also perfectly acceptable.
I have a pretty heavy foot so I would not be the best judge on gas mileage. I don't think it has improved. However, as I am coming out of a Chrysler 300M that got even worse gas mileage (again with the heavy foot combination), its better than that.
Did you notice the same 2-1-2 shift issue? Does anyone think that may be, or can be, improved with a software upgrade?
Hot 6