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I am hoping that someone has the solution to this because if I can repair this myself that would be great...... car repair is exspensive especially at the dealer.
Thank you......... in advance!
I'm considering the Mazda6 wagon (used, perhaps 2005 or newer). What is the reputation for quality, repair, maintenance cost? What are the Mazda6 major known problems I should look out for?
Thank for your input, you make this forum great!
This has now happened to me yesterday. As I parked the car in my driveway, my wheels were turned. I wanted to straighten them up, but when I tried to turn the car back on, nothing except the clicking and the crazy needles jumping back and forth. I rolled the car and straightened the wheels thinking that it had something to do with it, but still it would not start. About a year ago, I this problem if my wheels were turned, I couldn't even turn my key, so I ended up having the ingition switch replaced under warranty. The problem I had yesterday was a bit different because the key was turning fine, it just wasn't starting the car and all it was doing was clicking and needles jumping around.
When I boosted the car, it started and I let it run for a bit. However, when I shut the car down and tried to restart, it wouldn't start. Again the clicking and the needles.
So I bought a new battery from Walmart (89$ - Energizer) and I will replace the old battery today. I just wanted to hear from anyone that may have found something in the car that was causing the over drain on the battery's charge or if it is simply time for a battery change? I'm driving a 2004 (bought in 2003) 6i Sedan manual with 69K km.
Thanks. WIthout these message boards, I think we would really be at the mercy of the dealers and service centres when it comes such issues.
If the car starts easily when you jumped it, then you probably have a battery-power problem. The indication is that you may not have had enough power to turn the motor for starting, or not enough power to operate the electronics (ECU/computer) which is vital to starting/operating. That usually means the battery was weak, or a cable connection was not reliable. A strong battery can overcome a poor electrical connection to some degree.
After jump starting, your car would not start on it's own. So the power supplied by the jump-start was sufficient, but your own car did not charge your battery sufficiently, or you were not able to get sufficient power from your battery again.
With a simple voltmeter from radio-shack you can do a preliminary/basic battery check. Most repair shops can do this for you too. You should also check all cables and connections that come from your battery. Do a visual check, and try to move the connections. Make sure they are all clean (no corrosion) and attached well/solidly. A flimsy connection can severely reduce the power throughput from the battery.
If your battery and connections are good, then you have a more complex problem, perhaps an ECU/computer issue. You dealer will have to do more testing in that case.
How about spraying some silicone spray in the groove of rubber weatherstriping of the window?
I was considering the purchase of a Sport Diesel Hatch, having owned two previous models I was rather disappointed with the equipment listed on each model.
Only two models can have a sunroof this being the most expensive SL model saloon or estate.
They are not producing a SL version in hatchback form.
I also do not want leather trim but this is is standard fit in the SL models.
Come on Mazda lets have more options like other manufacturers offer.
This may cause me to look elsewhere for my next new car.
Not so good in the snow we just had. I'm thinking of a second set of wheels with winter tires, I found some 17" 5 spoke OEM Alloy wheels for a Mazda 3 dirt cheap. I know they'll bolt on. But what about offset and any other concerns?
I just spent the last couple of hours reading through the last year or so of posts on this thread, and I've got some questions:
1) Has Mazda cured the alignment issue with the car pulling to the right?
2) Is the cloth upholsterly issue completely solved?
3) Does the 2.3L engine match well to the automatic transmission?
4) Brakes seem to be a recurrence topic here. Is this a resolved issue with the 6?
5) Can members give me their real world mileage results with the 2.3 and the automatic? The new EPA numbers don't look that promising, but I know they're downgraded from the previous formula. (As a side note, I drive alot of suburban miles and my long-term overall MPG tends to be 1 or 2 mpg over the city rating, regardless of the car. I have always beat the EPA highway mileage on longer trips greater than, say, 1 hour on the interstates.)
6) Give me your opinion - is this a car that will last 10 years and/or 150,000 miles?
Thanks!
Mazda has released a TSB concerning this issue, which from what I've heard has solved the problem. My '04 has never had this issue.
2) Is the cloth upholsterly issue completely solved?
It has with the '06 interior redesign. My '04 has shown significant wear with only 60K miles, but the materials (and quality) were changed for '06, and I haven't heard any major issues (or repeating occurrences) with the newer cloth.
3) Does the 2.3L engine match well to the automatic transmission?
Not for me. Then again, I bought the V6 with 5-speed manual for a reason.
My brother-in-law has the 2.3 with auto, and he says the power is fine for his commute (both highway and two-lane).
4) Brakes seem to be a recurrence topic here. Is this a resolved issue with the 6?
IMO they're more of a hit-and-miss item with the 6, meaning that they only happen to the vast minority of owners. My brakes are still original after 60K miles, and my brother-in-law with similar mileage has had new pads, but that's it.
6) Give me your opinion - is this a car that will last 10 years and/or 150,000 miles?
Compared to the VW, absolutely! :P
After close to four years and 60K miles, I still have no rattles or any major issues. I've only had my gas cap replaced under warranty, but that's it. I'm hoping to get over 100K miles myself, and I'm well on my way...
Hope this helps.
I'm happy to hear that some of these problems have been addressed.
Here's a couple more for you:
1) How's the front leg room? We have a '97 Accord and I had always wished the thing had one more notch of seat (fore to aft) travel. Same with our old '91 Protege. Truthfully, in the Passat, I can barely reach the accelerator if the seat is all the way back - it's very roomy in front. I'm pretty lanky at 6'2" with a 34 inseam.
2) My wife has a troublesome back. How are the seats, your opinion? Does the lumbar support actually hit your lumbar, so to speak?
3) What kind of mileage does your borther-in-law get?
4) Haven't read much about people with leather seats. Any info on that? I'm not expecting MB quality (our VW has 'em and they just okay). Do you know of any issues with the leather?
5) So....who bought first, you or your B-I-L?
I drive like my kid's grandma, so I don't think the power issue will be a concern. I don't get the sense that the 4 banger will get in its own way on the interstate. Gotta go with the automatic to preserve marital bliss.
With the '09's going into production shortly with the total redesign, I'm thinking I can get a reasonable deal on a 6i. I see a red Grand Touring at about $25,800 or so at a local dealer. Should be interesting to see what it will go for...
Thanks again!
I did not have any alignment problems, but the tracking is very sensitive. I sometimes feel too much correcting is needed on the freeway and that it is overly sensitive to any slope in road (on crowned roads, for example). I guess that is the trade-off for the sporty handling. My wife's Jetta has much more stable tracking.
I'm shorter than you 5'11', but do wear 34 inch inseam (33 would actually fit better, but are a rare find). I have plenty of leg room.
The seats are very comfortable for me. In most cars the lumbar does not hit my lumbar and as a result I have that all the way "off". In the 6, the height of lumbar is right for me (most hit too low), so I do dial in a bit of lumbar.
I have 4 cyl automatic. I have gotten about 32 mpg on the freeway, typically I drive around 70-75 mph. In my suburban commute I typically get somewhere between the old city and highway numbers in any vehicle. The Mazda 6 is no different and I I've gotten 24-26.
I find that the 4 cyl is has adequate power for me and I am not a particularly sedate driver.
I have only 8000 miles on mine, so don't have anything to say about your longevity related questions. I also do not have (or desire) leather, so no comments on that either.
The Grand Touring has some features that I would like, particularly the HID lights, but it's a "want" not a "need."
Well, I gotta get out there and sit and drive one of these cars. Any other comments would be welcome!
Not stellar, but not bad either. I'm similar in size to you, and I fit comfortably with the seat pushed all the way back. In my wife's '07 Altima, the seat has to be forward slightly for me to comfortably reach the pedals, so front legroom in the 6 isn't class-leading, but it works for me.
2) My wife has a troublesome back. How are the seats, your opinion? Does the lumbar support actually hit your lumbar, so to speak?
I'll agree with jeffyscott here, the seats are firm but comfortable, and the lumbar support works for me as well. Remember that I've got a '04, and the seats were revised with the newer cloth in '06. Unfortunately, I haven't taken any long trips in a '06-up model to give you a better opinion.
3) What kind of mileage does your borther-in-law get?
I believe he gets high-20s in city driving, 32-33 MPG on the highway, and he averages about 29-30 on his commute.
4) Haven't read much about people with leather seats. Any info on that? I'm not expecting MB quality (our VW has 'em and they just okay). Do you know of any issues with the leather?
No big issues that I'm aware of. Leather is actually fairly comfortable in the 6. As you said, not MB quality, but very durable, especially when it's maintained.
5) So....who bought first, you or your B-I-L?
Funny story... I'd been looking at the 6 since spring of '04, but I couldn't buy it until August due to my financial situation. My B-I-L came with me on a test-drive in early July, and was very impressed, but wasn't actively looking for a new car at the time. Anyway, I finally bought my 6 in mid-August, but I couldn't take delivery until the end of the month due to them getting the exact car from a dealer in another state, as well as me being out-of-town for a week. While I was gone, my B-I-L, on a whim, went and bought his 6, and took delivery two days before I did!
The worst part? He thought I was getting blue, so he picked out Steel Gray, which was the color car that we test-drove, and the color I picked out a week earlier!
Parked next to each other, they actually don't look too similar, since he has the gray interior, 4-cyl with auto, and no sport package, while I've got the black interior, V6 with 5-speed, and the sport package. (Back in '04, the difference between the sport and non-sport cars was night and day.)
Good luck with whatever you decide. :shades:
Not stellar, but not bad either. I'm similar in size to you, and I fit comfortably with the seat pushed all the way back. In my wife's '07 Altima, the seat has to be forward slightly for me to comfortably reach the pedals, so front legroom in the 6 isn't class-leading, but it works for me.
In my 2003 6s, if I push all the way back, I cannot reach the pedals and I am a 5'11" and wear 34x32" pants.
4) Haven't read much about people with leather seats. Any info on that? I'm not expecting MB quality (our VW has 'em and they just okay). Do you know of any issues with the leather?
No big issues that I'm aware of. Leather is actually fairly comfortable in the 6. As you said, not MB quality, but very durable, especially when it's maintained.
Ditto. In fact, it needs very little maintenance. It comes coated with some slick topcoat that seems to resist any stuff sticking to it.
MB quality? well I sat in my friends ML320 and the leather wasn't exactly all that great. $ for $, the Mazda6 has better leather.
I have my 6s since July 2003 and got 67K on it. Any issues? had regular warrantable issues. No issues yet after it ran out of warranty at 50K. No creaks/rattles. Drives like it did when brand new.
Will the car last 150,000? I would think easily if taken care of. I have a 95 MX-6 with 200,500 miles and the car runs like new.
The build quality on this car is top notch.
I think the seats are comfortable and with the power adjust drivers seat, there is a lot of flexibility in seat adjustment. I don't keep the seat all the way back and I am 6' tall, but the back seat is a little tight when my kids are sitting back there, more from the front seat back angle, hopefully the '09 will help with that. I have the cloth and it has held up so far. The carpet on the floor hump in the back has a few chunks of pile missing though from the kids getting in and out, the carpet could be better.
My biggest complaint is that when I press on the brake, the ball of my foot is on the brake pedal and my toes are on the support arm, so I am putting the brakes on by pressing on the arm and pedal which I don't like. I have a size 12 shoe, maybe that is the issue, but I didn't notice it when I test drove the car and I've never had that issue with any other cars. I've tried moving the seat around to see if I'm too close, but it still happens. If the support arm angles back further it wouldn't be a problem.
Why are you pressing the brake pedal with the ball of your foot? It is usually pressed with the part of the foot closer to the toes.
Size 12 pretty much explains it.
It's still a lot of fun to drive, I try to keep the gas pedal down most of the time and use the manual shift mode to slow down when people get in my way!
I'm not old enough to be doing that yet. Maybe some day when I'm driving a Crown Vic I can drive with 2 feet and ride the brakes all over town.
It's also illegal (in most states), and a very bad driving practice in general.
The parking brake isn't a problem, you simply release one end of the spring from the acutator, then everything is free to move.
If you need to replace rotors, be prepared to wrestle with the rotor screws (2 per), I had trouble with those. The right way to remove them is with an impact screwdriver, but I was only able to get two off that way. I drilled out the others and did not replace them.
I replaced all my pads with Bendix ceramics, and although they sometimes make a bit of noise and don't bite hard until warmed up, I'm happy with them. They don't generate nearly as much dust as the OEM pads and it's lighter in color so I'm not having to constantly clean my wheels.
If you want to see a nice step-by-step howto with pics for this job, there is one on a Mazda6 enthusiast site you could probably find easily.
Good luck.