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Next I took it to another place (not a dealer) where they informed me of a service bullatin out about the throddle body on my car being bad.
Took my car to a different dealer where they informed me nothing about this problem even when I directly asked. My car was in and out of the shop for a week and a half (fixing many other "possible problems"), where it cost me a couple of thousands of dollars. Ultimately, they ended up replacing the throddle body in my car, problem fixed finally. Oh, I forgot to tell say that, somehow, the last time I brought my car home after the flipping light went off finally, I now had an anti-freeze leak and had to take it right back that same evening for another $600 dollar repair. I also failed to mention the cost for fixing all of the tickets for expired plates...
Can this be repaired or will that panel have to be replaced? Does anyone know the cost to replace the panel and if this is something that I can do myself or if I will have to get it done by a professional? Its a small thing but I can't stand my new car looking banged up.
I need to know which cylinder #4 would be? If it is located at the back of the engine, would this be difficult to do by myself? Taking off the intake manifold?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Under your car, right up near the radiator under the oil pan there's a thin piece of black plastic (aerodynamic something) with bolts that perpetually come lose and cause the piece of plastic to vibrate at speeds around 75-80.
Hope this helps!!
S.
Any more info would help, since there are literally hundreds of choices for this car.
I have Blizzaks on Mazda 3 Alloys for winter. Also a great tire. No need for an SUV or 4WD, just get a good set of winter tires. I can drive like it's summer
I just bought a 2010 Mazda 6 yesterday. Last night I discovered that the trunk was/is leaking where the jack is. Oddly enough, this EXACT same issue happened on my previous 2006 Altima. So I need to take it back to the dealer today for them to look at it. Needless to say I'm not very happy....we'll see what happens....
I'm new here. I believe my switch assembly for low/high beams, directional, and wipers needs to be replaced. My entire left headlight unit is out and only the fog light and side yellow/orange light on the right side work. I thought I could bypass having to call my dad and checked all the fuses, but they are all fine. Being a mechanic himself my dad seems to think it's the switch assembly. Most likely he is correct....
I have two questions:
1. Has anyone else had this issue?
2. Do you know where I can find a diagram that willl illustrate how to remove and replace the assembly? I found the assembly itself at auto parts warehouse.
Also, please let me know if I should post this in another section.
Thanks for your help!
-K
The knock intensity varies from day to day. On humid and rainy days it is almost eliminated completely. The drier the weather the more pronounced it is.
Also as you step on the gas it disappears, so to me this means it is not related to any real malfunction in the car such as bad bearings or valves or anything of the sort. I think it is basically a fuel combustion issue. It is what is called detonation, and I know that moisture (Water vapor) reduces detonation. The reason might be fuel injector related, spark plug related, or simply because the car is tuned by Mazda to run too lean at idle. This means not enough gas is being pumped into the engine at low rpm.
Now I plan to replace the plugs, but is there also a way I can somehow increase the fuel delivery at idle, such as a fuel pressure regulator, or is it all controlled by the ECU these days?
Piston slap is a possibility, as this can be due strictly to the use of a short-skirted piston. Some new cars exhibit this. GM and Subaru products have had this "problem" (which is really harmless in this case). One gets better combustion on humid/wet days, so that would drive the piston a bit harder.
What I am experiencing is exactly the opposite. The engine is very smooth when cold, The sounds I am talking about do not start till the engine has warmed up completely. The engine stays smooth until it reaches the full operating temperature (temperature gauge in the middle). After the engine is fully warmed up, then it starts exhibiting the knock sound at idle, and a slight tapping sound on very light accelerating. Above 2000 rpm it runs just fine. That is why I am thinking it somewhat related to combustion. Since when the engine is cold, the computer pumps more gas into the cylinders, and hence no bad knocking. As the engine warms up and starts running leaner on gas, that is when the sounds start.
Let's see---other noises can be: fuel injector clicking; exhaust leak, valve tappet, worn camshaft lobe.....???
What I'm driving at is that the only kind of noise that might appear when the engine is warm and not cold is one related to the thinning of the oil.
Anyway, I wish I could hear it, I could talk more intelligently about it.
I will also try to get a video with sound uploaded.
Someone suggested spark plugs, but I doubt they'd all go out at the same time. Someone else suggested fuses, but I couldn't find any that were blown.
Someone else suggested security system and to reset it, but I can't find out how to do that for the life of me!
Any ideas?
I have been searching the net for information, and see that I am not alone. See that there is a TSB which would appear to apply if the car were within 12mo or 12000mi of purchase--otherwise, would require "DCSM authorization."
So my questions are:
1) what does DCSM mean?
2) what are my chances of getting Mazda to fix this, or at least reduce my cost? any advice on tactics?
3) any experience/thoughts about how much savings there is to be had by going with an independent shop?
4) does it make sense to consider an aftermarket clutch?
I want to have this all planned out before the clutch dies--would really appreciate input about this.
Thanks!
2. Chances vary. The vehicle age and mileage you're at are not in your favor. Loyalty to the brand and dealer may help. Always pays to at least give it a try. If they turn you down, ask them to explain why the TSB doesn't apply.
3. Estimates are free, often available right over the phone. A reputable independent shop can be 30-50% cheaper and every bit as good. A lot has to do with the cost of the parts, and availability of non-OEM parts.
4. Depends. Typically aftermarkets are higher-performance tuner parts and cost more accordingly - not likely of interest to you. Another factor is how long you intend to keep the vehicle. The repair cost works out to $30 a month amortized over the next five years. Also, what could you buy in its place, even in trade?
Having been in your place (not with my Mazdas), I've gone with the lowest price good shop I could find.
I think the most likely scenario is that I will end up going with an independent shop. And yes, definitely seems more cost effective to fix rather than trade. I do like the car, and it has treated me pretty well. The only other significant repair was replacing the starter which was done under warranty.
It appears that most of the cost is associated with labor rather than parts. Looks like I can get an OEM clutch for a little under $200, and an Exedy Stage 1 clutch (popular on the mazda6club forum) for a little over $300.
What I don't know is whether the aftermarket clutch is likely to last longer. Any thoughts on that?
Also keep in mind that clutch chatter is not always clutch related---the repair shop should carefully check for oil leaks and unusual wear on other components that work along with the clutch---so, too, motor and transmission mounts.
I have a 2010 Mazda 6 and have noticed that when I have the vents on (eg:face/feet) I will have intermittent sound coming from the main dash vent on my driver side..the vent just under the windshield. It sounds like the sound your vents make when they first open, the swoosh sound. Its almost like the vent is trying to open again, doesn't last long, maybe a second, but is kinda annoying.
I just took it for service and the tech said it was normal HVAC operation after he drove it and heard it.
Does anyone else second this or have another opinion?
Thanks
Anyone know how to open the hatchback from the inside? it is jammed .
Thanks
ron
I can send you the TSB if needed.
Hope you get to the bottom of it-please advise
sincerely,
This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
Thanks for the help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
It is not the noise of the clicking of the fuel injectors that I am talking about, but a faint background knock sound similar to 2 marbles rolling around in a tin can,
You might need to listen to it a few times to train your ear to the sound.
This is the same exact noise of my engine, So it is not just me, maybe this is how these engines sound. But if this is the case, they really sound crappy. I expect a diesel engine to knock like that, not a petrol engine. Petrol engines are supposed to be smoother. Listen to it and tell me if you hear the knock, and if you think it is normal. The sound is only at last few seconds of the video.
Thanks for the help
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm4WmtTcqQM&feature=fvw
Thanks
My engine currently has 35,000 KM on it. The dealer I bought the car from dismissed it as normal 4 Cylinder engine noise. I did make the complaint early on when the car had only 12,000 KM (second oil change).
If they both make the same noise, he wins. If his is quiet and noise is conspicuously more noisy, then he should do something about your car. Seems like a fair bet.