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http://www-sop.inria.fr/sinus/Images/Images/anim2.html
On the common rail system the combustion bowl is part of the piston itself. You can see it here:
http://www.americanenergyindependence.com/sonex.html
The statements you're making still make no sense...simply because it's impossible to calibrate two different engines exactly the same. If you put a gasser in neutral and give it just a bit of throttle (say 5%), it will not go bouncing off the rev limiter; it will increase in RPMs slightly. A diesel will do the exact same thing. They behave identically. There is no difference. Common sense and any driving experience will tell you that a gas engine doesn't reach "max rpm" at all throttle apertures, nor does a diesel. Assuming constant load, both gas and diesel engines increase RPM with increased throttle position.
As for your comments regarding moutain driving, because a diesel lacks a throttle butterfly to control airflow, they are actually far less efficient at engine braking than a gasoline engine. The only advantage of the diesel is that it: 1) doesn't build the potentially damaging high vacuum of a gasser straining to suck air against a closed butterfly; and, 2) has higher compression which helps to offset the loss of engine braking efficiency caused by its open access to outside air. The relative inefficiency of diesels in engine braking is why so many large Over the Road diesels use exhaust, jake, or other forms of accessory engine brakes.
I'm going to bow out of this one, as it makes no sense to continue the dispute. If you'd like the last word, that's fine. I just hope it makes a bit more sense.
I have heard about the filter not being the best for the diesel so I will try going back to stock for a few tanks and see if there is a diff.
You say you generally exceed the EPA highway rating by 2-4 mpg? Yet you only get 20-21 ? I thought we were supposed to get 24-28 mpg?
I'm really considering the performance modual "DR PERFORMANCE Pred For 2005-06 Jeep Liberty Diesel
GAIN AN AMAZING 60 HP !! BETTER FUEL ECONOMY !!" Anyone tried these yet?
Thanks again
I will try the tranny oil change and the previously mentioned air filter.
The tires may cost me more than I'd save over 3 years but I will shop around in the spring as we are heading into the Fall/winter months and I'll be wanting to uses these lugs (even with the Diesel at $3.39 a gallon in Fenton,Michigan this morning)
Thanks again.
dacur
Just put a plastic trash bag under your Libby with lots of paper towels to catch the spill off of diesel and water that are in the filter.
MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE WIRE HARNESS ON THE BOTTOM OF THE FILTER........if not you will end up twisting the wires off when you go to unscrew the filter. Unplug the harnesses and take off the fuel hose (small metal clamp holds it on ) then unscrew like an oil filter. It is a tight fit so wear some gloves or lose some skin. It took a few minutes of slow dripping to really drain it out.
They recommend emptying/changing it every 6K miles (I think....my manual is outside and I'm a 3rd shifter going to bed in 10 sec's)
Hope that was helpful
I just went through the same process of buying a Jeep last week and bought mine on Oct 1, 2005. I wrestled with the 2005 vs 2006 issue as well as prices and options. I ended up getting a 2005 because it was a better deal with incentives and it has a better warranty. The 05 has a 7/70 drive train warranty which Jeep dropped on the 06. I was able to get an 05 Sport (automatic) in the color I want with towing package and few other little things for $22,600. The best price I could find on an 06 Sport was $25,300. Go to E-bay and check out the ones they have there. There are two dealers in NC ( Steve White and Empire) which slash the prices by giving all incentives, plus the discount 1/2 of hold back and don't charge for "processing". Their deals are very hard to beat. They also deliver at a very reasonable rate. The othe dealer I found that was competitive was Quinn Jeep in West Point, VA outside Richmond. Not quite as good a deal as the two NC dealers but there was no delivery involved for me. So far I love my CRD and got 28.8 mpg on the highway for the first 125 miles - not bad. My mixed mountain driving is coming in around 22 mpg. Go to ebay and check out the deals - then call these guys - the deals are hard to beat.
My 2 cents worth - good luck.
Have not driven in snow yet so will see. I think your wife will love driving it to as it is so easy to manuver.
Thanks, :confuse:
Thanks
Ace
Filter - Wix 51516
Oil- Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 or Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W-40
Any feedback on the above choices?
http://www.valvoline.com/premiumblue/
I want to protect the front of my jeep before the snowplows start throwing sand (actually small boulders) out. Is the 3M product a good choice? Or what would you all recommend?
Steve, Host
I went to both websites and here is what I came up with.
Amsoil 5W-40 Mobil 1 0W-40 Mobil1 5W-40
ASTM D-445
@ 40 C - 83.6 80 102
@ 100 C - 14.5 14.3 14.8
ASTM D-2270
Viscosity Index - 182 187 151
Pour Point (Cel) - -51 -54 -45
Flash Point (Cel) 232 236 226
SAE Ratings CF, CI-4 CE, CF CF - CI-4
These are all of the common values I could find. I only included the compression ignition SAE ratings since we are discussing diesel here.
To be frank with you, I see only slight differences in the products. It is as good as the recommended oil and has superior detergency to the 0W-40.
As for the data I presented, it was data that was common to all three products. I have used Amsoil for years without any kind of spoilage. I have used Amsoil chassis grease that was a few years old and it worked fine. I have used their transmission fluids and they performed much better over 30+K miles than the standard fluid from the manufacturer.
I think that all lubricants have a finite life, no matter what the source.
What have been your findings regarding fuel? Have you noticed any differences in performance and/or MPG with any particular brand (assuming, of course, that you're actually getting the brand indicated by the sign out front)? I don't know if there is as much difference in the proprietary additive packages in fuel as there is in gasoline. (Both, of course, are considered "fungible" commodities and the difference(s) occur at the rack.)
As to additive packages, I add a cetane improver and a product to pull the moisture from the fuel. No moisture = no algae or bacteria growing in the fuel.
I have tried 5 - 10% biodiesel blend several times. Performance wise, this is the best way to make a marked difference. It is the best cetane improver I know but it is not located near to where I live, so I use it infrequently, unfortunately.
I want to make comment about the oil issue you brought up. I am not trying to pan Mobil . It is a good oil, but the problem with the 0W-40 is two-fold. Mobil uses a fair amount of viscosity improvers in their oil, something that breaks down quickly. Next, the API rating goes as far as CF. This may be adequate in europe where ULS diesel is readily available. Amsoil has an API rating as high as CI-4. Also, the TBN is > 12 while Mobil does not publish that number. Considering that ULS diesel will not be available nationwide until sometime in 2006, I want the extra detergency and neutralizing power that Amsoil provides.
Amsoil 5W-40 Synthetic does not have the API certification mark. Why? It is not API certified. It does not meet the warranty requirements. The specs on the Amsoil are not the problem. The problem is that for whatever reason, Amsoil either chooses not to or can not meet the API certification.
You can use any oil you want, heck use olive oil (just kidding), however, I will use an oil that has the API certification mark.
Regarding the Mobil 1 0W-40, my personal opinion is that Mobil 1 Delvac 5W-40 is a better oil for a diesel and it is rated API CI-4 PLUS/CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/CF-4/CF/SL/SJ.
I'll most likely be using Rotella in my CRD after the dealer free oil changes are over.
Amsoil has in writing that if there products ruin an engine, trans, etc., they will pay to have it fixed. If a dealer or manufacturer voids a warranty or portion of it because you use Amsoil, they are violating the law.
If you read what you copied from the 2006 manual, it states should not be used. It does not say cannot be used.
Exxon has Mobile travel guides and convenience stores, but they are by and large an oil company with lots of lubrication experience (link).
You guys should take this to either the Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 or the Synthetic motor oil discussion so we can get back to the Liberty in here.
Steve, Host
Your Limited New Vehicle Warranty will not cover engine damage caused by using the wrong engine oil. The law is most certainly not being broken by requiring a vehicle to have correct maintenance during the warranty period. This is why you would write a check for an engine if damage is due to incorrect oil. Use Amsoil in the CRD at your own risk.
Amsoil is the wrong oil.
There must be a oil forum if you wish to discuss this further.
And FYI I never said Amsoil does not meet API standards, I said that it does not meet the oil requirements of the CRD to have an API oil.
Why would anyone purposely choose to knowingly use an oil that does not have required certification when there are easily obtained oils that are similar or less cost that do have the required certifications? It is irrational.
To answer another post with regards to engine break in, just run the damn thing. His last van had over 350K miles on it and it was never "broken in" like some people think. Same with my cars and the race cars, just got in, turned the key, warmed up a little bit and to the floor the pedal went. Never had a mechanical problem inside the engine do to this.
I am not an Amsoil dealer. I do know that they have had synthetic oil for cars and trucks on the market since 1972, years before Mobil 1 came onto the market. I am sure they have learned a few things in 33 years.
As to putting my warranty at risk, I do not think so. The onus is on the dealer/manufacturer to prove that the lubricant caused the failure. No where in my manual or what has been quoted here does it say that I must absolutely use something. The statements are not absolute statements, they are recommendations and nothing else.
As to what other items Amsoil or Mobil/Exxon sell and how they sell is totally irrelevant to this discussion.
I have no more to say about this!!!
But yes, please continue the oil wars in one of the discussions I linked above.
Oh, and SEMA has a good link about your rights when you use aftermarket or non-OEM products on your car.
Steve, Host
As to not liking synthetic oil, I can see your point of view. For many applications it is really not needed as long as you do regular care on the car/truck. In the case of my CRD and other certain models, there is no choice. In any event, I would use them. I have found they do a better job than regular motor oil under high heat and stress conditions.
Besides the cost of copper, I suspect that the manufacturer doesn't want a lot of loose ends in the engine compartment near the fan belts and other moving parts.
It's hard to believe that your heater cord won't reach long enough so that you can plug it in without opening the hood; sounds like dumb planning on some engineer's (or bean-counter's) part.
Steve, Host
If you have a gelling issue, there are products to solve it.
I have had my diesel outside (no garage) in 50 below F without a gelling problem.
I have a garage now, however, even if I did not, I would not be concerned about gelling.
There is anti-gel additive in diesel fuel at the pump. For those who desire added insurance, anti-gel additives can be added to your tank.