Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Apologies. Admittedly some of us get a wee cranky when merchandising is incorporated subjectively into threads.
I'm really not sure how the extra $0.70 - $1.20 per quart of Amsoil is warranted, except through advertising hype and 'value-added'. I'll go elsewhere to research it if needed. This isn't the place. Some of us have vested interests in other products, too.
SYNM - Natural Gas to Ultra,Ultra-Low-Sulfur Diesel Technology link title
To answer question 4, yes it's in Italy. Here is the link to VM Motori. "In 2000 VM Motori, together with Detroit Diesel Corporation, became part of the DaimlerChrysler Group. In 2003 the share packet of the Company was defined as follows: 51% Penske Group and 49% DailmerChrysler Group." I'm a newbie myself so I'll let others more knowledgable and experienced answer the rest of your questions.
L8r,
Craig
Good luck! LK
Fix up the old Wrangler!
Depending on your motor coach's chassis manufacturer, you will not notice the Liberty behind you more than the Wrangler you pull (used to tow one of those too!. In fact, it could be my imagination (or a lower center of gravity on the Liberty vs the Wrangler) but the Liberty's seem to pull a whole lot better and with no significant impact on the motor homes mpg (my unit is on a Freightliner Custom Chassis). Good luck and enjoy. See you on the road!!
Jim E. Darlington, SC
The only thing is the come in black,so beige interiors are out.
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3
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I changed the oil on my CRD recently at 7K (around half the criteria for Schedule "A"). My thoughts in doing so were:
1. Engine is new.
2. CRD was consuming some oil the first 2K (valves were
breaking in).
I went out and purchased the Mobile 1 0W-40 synthetic oil and went to the Jeep dealership to buy the oil filter (ouch! was a little expensive). Then had a gas station do the oil change for cheap, as I watched like a hawk. Told them to put in 6 quarts (out of 7) and that I would adjust the level later when I got home.
This whole thing is probably unnecessary but, it gave me some peace of mind as I want to take care of the vehicle. I will let the dealership do the first Schedule "A" maintenance around 7K more down the road. crddude.
I bought tires for a diesel Cadi at a place that would rotate them periodically for free. I made the mistake of asking them to grease the chasis while it was on the rack. Well somehow that got translated into change the oil. I saw the hood up and wondered why. I had put Delvac 1 in it a couple of weeks ago. They put their 10W-30 barrel oil in it. Somehow my explitive filter prevented me from pointing out their parental genus & species.
At work we use Bio-Bor JF from Hammonds. West Marine and other marine stores stock it. The diesel fuel guy at Southwest Research says it works as a lubricity additive too. Mercedes and GM supported it in the 1980's during the previous diesel peak.
The Havoline (ChevronTexaco) and the Delo (also ChevronTexaco) could be the same product. Do they meet Mercedes 229.3 as well as 228.5? Mobil 1 0W-40 meets 229.3 and Delvac 1 (5W-40) meets 228.5. The former has less sulfated ash than the latter. (ash comes from Total Base Number additives) the ULSD that the Jeep claims it's designed for don't need as much TBN.
I'm entering into the 16th week of waiting for my order of a limited CRD. Dealer still does not know when it's due in. I read a few posts about calling DCX to make sure there's no 'hold' on it. Anyone got a number for that? What is DCX (Daimler-Chrysler X?)
At this point, I'm getting a little upset as it was due in 6-10 wks, putting that mid Dec. I lost out on the Miles of Freedom plan while waiting, and now my trade-in value dropped $3k as we've entered a different year. And I keep seeing a new Liberty on the road every day! Wish I had mine!
Michelle in New Mexico
The turbo swells oil that collects at the lower end of the hose that goes to the intercooler. This is why my hose is always greasy and collects all the dirt. Some oil was visible on the oil filter cartridge and dripped from the turbo. I checked all screws and hose clamps and found nothing was loose. The engine took 1/2 a quart of oil in 25,000 Km.
The new oil did not turn black quickly as someone quoted in a previous post. This means my old oil still had enough ability to retain soot (TBN) when I changed it, and confirms credibility of extended intervals with synthetic oil as long as the diesel fuel has low sulfer contents.
There is an enormous difference in the black soot this oil handles compared to older diesel waste oil: only diesel fuel is able to wash it away, I wasn't able to clean my tools just by wiping with a cloth.
Now for the fuel filter, I was curious and changed it. Mine is definitely a R20S Parker Racor with a built in heater in the bowl. My fuel filter was still clean after this short use (25,000KM) and the only contaminant I was able to find was a 'pinch' of sand like dry debris that collected in the bowl when I flushed it with the drain plug. Flushing is done by reversing the flow in the cartridge when the fuel lines are disconnected. I hope this can make you feel more confident with yours.
The turbo oil is fed from the top with a 'banjo' connection using a 14mm hex plug. It's accessible without dismounting anything and visible when you stand in front of the triangle formed by the hood's hinge and the spring pusher that keeps it open. Over the turbo there is a heat shield that's interrupted to give access to this fitting.
The solid copper oil gasket of the engine sump drain plug has metric dimensions: Id 17; Od 21; thickness 1.25mm.
Last point: only diesel fuel got my hands clean :shades:
Actually, if I just washed it it would be ok!
Regards,
Jim
As for the oil staying cleaner after you change is a testament to the better fuel you have in the EU. USLD will not be widely available in the U.S. until the middle of this year. In the meantime, we will have to put up with it and it's associated problems. When I brought my CRD to the dealer last week, the service advisor who took care of me had worked for MB for some years. He has two older MB diesels and they are in good working order. We talked about the EGR problems on the CRD and he told me that they are failing because of our lousy fuel. Too much sulfur and not enough cetane. He adds cetane improver to his MB's also.
to contact DCX at the north plant to check on build status, would I simply call the 1800 number under 'contact us'? I'm wanting to know if there's a hold on mine that was ordered 16 weeks ago! I'm about ready to give up.
Thanks,
Michelle
My EGR valve is a 'stand-alone' thing, skinny I would say, vacuum driven with no return of information besides the current drawn by the electrovalve that opens the vacuum line coming from the dashboard via the brake booster.
It's looking a bit more 'mechanical'and to my taste. I have no NOx probe before or after the catalyser. This may be the reason why my truck works! If something goes wrong, I'm not told
If you want to access the bottom hose clamp on the turbo you will be better off using an elevator because it's quite difficult to turn around when the truck is on it's wheels (at least for a person my size
I would appreciate seing how to get the filter housing out of it's position. I pulled like mad on that thing and I'm afraid of breaking something. This would make service really easy and allow to change the bulb in the headlight. I have H4 iodine bulbs in complex surface reflectors. They are pretty good but the Xenon reflectors have a better distribution of light. I often turn off my headlights when I'm passed by european cars at night. Are you still using sealed beams?
As to headlights, sealed beams went out many years ago. The last time I dealt with sealed beams was in the late 80's. I looked at accessing the back of the right headlight. Boy, are you right about that. I will try to get some advice from the dealer on how to pull the air cleaner without destroying it or yourself.
I would think the CRD would be a good toad, only you know the condition of your Wrangler, and if it is time for a change or you just want a New Jeep.
Farout
sorry to hear that your having to wait so long for your libby.They usually make them in groups of orders. Then ship them in, to where they have to go,with the other vehicles the dealers order.
Unfortunately there is an order to which they are shipped.
and reasons why..
1/Availability of parts made will make a difference thats usually the reason of delays.
2/Vehicles are shipped in an order..
Ones that are paid cash,first ..,then ones that have trade in's are shipped secondly.but they don't tell you that.
You can start with the dealer,
they have an update status book that's sent to them mid- week to tell them the build staus of the vehicles they ordered.
They should be able to tell you ,if it is built yet and just waiting to be shipped or not.
The Dealer also should be able to provide a schedulers number for your area and you can make the calls yourself to Teledo,and have the same luck as my buddy who had to wait and pushed the shipping date up sooner by calling.
You'll have to your info ready ,including V.I.N.
It could have been worse ,I heard stories of when the PT Cruiser first came out there was a 6 month wait.
Because of back orders,and popularity.
I myself looked around for my Libby and found one on a lot and bought it right away.It was my favorite color midnight blue and chrome.
Nice...
Good Luck..
Speak Soon..
Lightnin3..
It bothers me too, a little. I previously posted that the turbo on these things spools up very fast and produces over 23 LBS of boost. That seems like a lot to me on a rubber hose. The turbo-intercooler-intake hoses look and feel like common radiator hoses which normally stand 18 LBS and 210 F for a long period of time when holding water/antifreeze. However, I have read that air coming from a turbo can approach 250 to 300 F, before the intercooler. I have no idea if this is indeed the case on the CRD. Let’s just say, maybe so, maybe not.
This suggests that for the sake of the hose you might want to back off on the “nose blowing” a little. I’m not saying it’s a bad idea, just, that you may not need to full throttle when you do it. When climbing big hills at 1900 RPM (65 MPH) I normally observed between 10 and 16 LBS of boost – usually 6 to 7 on the level.
Just FYI
BTW, I have not plugged it in yet, and have no problems starting at anywhere down to negative 20 celsius. I think that is 4 degrees F for our US friends.
All the Best with your CRD
My understanding is that all diesel engines have a “critical point”, a point at a certain RPM that creates harmonics or vibration.
Next time you have a chance to drive at that speed, notice the RPM’s. At some other time when parked, rev the engine to those RPM’s and see if you notice any vibration. Because the engine will not be under load you may or may not feel it.
Good luck and please let us know the out come.
The V6 has this also.
I ordered a CRD yesterday after talking about it since they were first announced.
Why do you think the Ford Power Stroke is a V8? The impulse torque from a 7 liter 4 cylinder, turbo boosted to an effective 15 liter, would pound the stuffing out of the Ford drive train. Or, the drive train would have to be twice as big.
If a vibration goes away when you shift into neutral it cannot be a drive train vibration since the drive shafts, differentials, axles, wheels and tires are still rotating. You would still feel it if it was in the drive train.
My CRD runs as smooth as silk at all speeds except for the 4 cylinder “groan” at low RPM (under a load) in overdrive that can be felt throughout the vehicle. My 4 cylinder stick Japanese car has the same vibration to a lesser extent when I floor it in overdrive at 1800 RPM.
When you talk about a vibration that might shake you off the road you are talking about a vibration that is not inherent to the CRD.
My EGR is connected to a 'Valeo' concentric cooler to lower the exhaust gas temperature that's being re-injected. You have a plate exchanger instead.
When in Parking position, I was able to stall the warm engine that was at idling speed by pressing the gas pedal several times but not allowing the engine to rev up faster than 1200 rpm. I think this opened the EGR too early and choked the engine. At least this test showed me that the valve opens with some delay :sick:
When I look at the whole thing, I could hold it in one hand. The diameter of the turbo is about 4" on the exhaust side and slightly larger on the fresh air side. The oil bushing is roughly 1.5" long and 2" in diameter.
The main thing is that it works nicely :shades:
As you know, I have read and commented on this site for quite awhile and am a proud owner of a, '05 CRD with just over 8,000 miles to date. Mile fuel mileage (old fashioned method) has ranged on a per tank basis of 19.x to 23.8 (one time) with most tank averages being 21-22 mpg.
The K&N filter offered, to my knowledge, required a rerouting and essentially bypassing of the air collection system. HOWEVER, when I went to buy a new air filter due to the filth of the original, they automotive store had a K&N that was the same size as the OEM equipment that simply dropped into the canister housing.
Has anyone use THIS type of K&N filter. Since I get plenty of performance, did you see an increase in mileage? Its "only" $50 so I wouldn't be out as much as the old K&N's but I am still frugal enough that I don't want to waste the money unless there is a measurable difference.
Thanks in advance for not pulling out your flame thrower, :shades:
Boilermaker
If so, I would not use it.
tidester, host
Boilermaker
I am told that they are now putting on Goodyear Wrangler HP All season VSB in a P235/65R17 on the CRD limiteds. Anyone confirm that or have any experience/opinion on these tires. I just wanted to avoid the dreaded ST's but it still looks like I'm stuck with dang nasty goodyears.
The only other recurring themes I see after reading 3675 messages here is #1 the EGR will go bad and #2 you will likely have to have the computer reflashed at some point and #3 watch out for brake issues
With the '06's are any of these resolved?
Thanks!
I have 10,500 miles on my 2005 CRD and have had none of the above mentioned problems. My ST tires have been fine so far, I have had no traction problems or slipping on wet pavement. They even worked OK on a slightly muddy grass road.
2. I think the computer flash issue is just about dead. Anything built after mid-May 2005 should be okay.
3. As for the brake issue, that was with the early builds. I have some noise when I back up in the morning after a damp night. It is either a squeaking sound or a grinding noise. If I drive about 25 feet, the noise is gone. Some people had brakes that bound up, but again that was an early build issue.
1. The oil does not come off of the filter. If any does come off of the filter, it will not harm any sensor, including the MAF.
2. The turbo will spool up faster, so a lighter right foot is in order, otherwise your fuel economy will drop some.
I have number 1 in writing (via email) from K&N.
planet.
Santa wasn't good to us.
Siberia says cummins makes a 2.8 (4cyl?)197Hp marine diesel. Can you put one of these, with no egr needed like the 5.9B, (or better yet build that 2.95B 6cyl w/o an egr)
and you can put it the bowtie's new half-ton truck with an electro-magnetic locking rear end from eaton. We would really like a nice highway mileage rear end like a 3.55 or maybe a 3.23 and with a real five or six speed tranny we could still trailer with it.