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Comments
Simple problem, simple answer, from one simple guy to another.
How'd I do?
Boiler
Anyway, it would shudder when the engine was cold(relative)and would shake and sometimes stall when approaching a stop...I wrote about this some time ago.
Well, the tranny fluid had not heated and expanded when cold so the it would suck air, literally, in this slow down mode and mess things up. When the jeep was hot, the problem was still there but the expanded fluid masks the problem.
After 12k miles, it started doing it again w/i the last two week. I checked and the tranny was a full quart low. I will repost if it still shudders.
Boiler
Isn't all ATF+4 synthetic??
I bought Valvoline, it says "shudder protection"
right on the bottle!!
LK
Simple problem, simple answer, from one simple guy to another.
I just found this 'simple' study explaining the effects of aerodynamic coupling of a vehicle to the road (for those who can read french):
http://www.cnam.fr/maths/Membres/wilk/Giens95/6pagespourcongres.htm
This document describes how the weight of a vehicle is distributed on it's 4 wheels, and explains the reaction of suspensions using a spring and a standard shock absorber.
Assuming we drive on the right hand side of the road, the time needed to reach an even weight repartition on the 4 wheels is about 15 seconds after a change of direction. During this stabilization period, the left wheels carry more weight than the right wheels. This is the result of the shock absorbers doing their job. During this time the left wheels also increase their temperature.
It would be interesting to have the input from a foreign poster driving on the other side of the road. UK perhaps?
Same as this, warm the fluids had expanded and went through the pump and converter no problem, but cold was a whole diff animal. Turned out the trans dipstick was broken and she was over a qt. low. New dipstick and the right amount of fluid fixed it.
I hope this is the simple problem although I have my doubts with regards to all of the posts in here :sick:
Just worried more about the long term use of this little beast.
My first guess is that the front tires carry a heavier load and you made more right turns than left.
Tidester, I thought of the front tires carrying a heavier load but I did not think about the turns leaving the interstate. I made three right hand turns and three left hand turns before stopping. I also made three downhill gentle stops – all turns (not so gentle) and stops close together. I believe that the heavier load on the front, the energy absorbed making 6 turns and the 3 stops (assuming more braking on the front) explain the generally warmer front tires. I give Tidester high marks for thinking about turns and myself low marks for not thinking about turns. I am not sure if the braking argument deserves much credit.
My guess was that you drove in one direction, predominantly for a long (relative) period of time so that the left is 5 degrees hotter than the right due to the sun.
I always check my tire pressures before a long trip to make sure the pressures are equal and proper. One day I backed out of the garage before loading gear and the vehicle sat in the sun for about an hour before I checked the tire pressure. The tires on the sunny side were 2 pounds higher and the sunny side tires were quite warm to the touch. I did in fact drive predominantly for a long period of time with the sun on the left. So, high marks Boilermaker2 for bringing in the variable that I believe explains the generally warmer tires on the left as you describe the exact circumstance. A strong predominant wind from the right side could have loaded the left, but that was not the case.
The front wheels stand by the heat of the engine compartment. In addition to that, the engine and driver shift the center of gravity to the front. On a normal road in 2WD at stable speed, friction driven front wheels should accumulate more heat than the rear wheels that have better contact with the pavement.
Once again, Caribou1, I give myself low marks for not thinking about the heat of the engine (or the exhaust) and you high marks for same. This could, in fact, be part of the solution to the puzzle along with more weight on the front as previously mentioned. The front differential is quite close to the engine and heat could be conduced through the front axles to the front wheels and maybe created a little by the front axles. Warm air is coming off the radiator, charged air cooler and air conditioning condenser going downward and maybe being squished outward by the bottom shield - contributing to generally warmer front tires.
In a nutshell, my answer was sun on the left, more weight on the front and braking. I think this forum can brainstorm!
Yes, I have. And, it is with some restraint that I do not respond beyond :P, said laughing.
Unfortunately, I cannot read French. I submit that the following is the salient CRD equation:
Happiness = Reality – Expectations
Initially I imagined you would have had a "simple" emissions control system in the US, similar to the one I have on my engine. This forum showed me how you guys have to struggle and worry to keep your investment on the road.
The MY 2003 of the CRD is well beyond my expectations of a diesel powered vehicle, and I've had diesels for ~25 years.
I would have said:
Happiness = CRD Reality compared to Experience
I lost my expectations 3 minutes after I shifted the CRD demo truck into "Drive".
Today I have no answer for an equivalent replacement vehicle, I'm bluffed.
According to the technician I use, this is becoming an issue with our CRD's. The hoses become saturated from the inside out and there is nothing one can do except replace the hoses under warranty. Caribou mentioned a company or two that makes hoses that are supposedly immune to this problem. I may have some hoses made from braided stainless steel with custom connectors and do away with the problem altogether.
Several forums mention the simplicity of the exhaust valve mechanism. All I can say is I left mine aside and haven't had a single hiccup since.
Last week we took our Compass infor the 3,000 mile oil change, we were told that DCX has bought back a number of the CRD's. I don't blame the engine for our problems, I blame the programs that DCX has running all the other computers. We had so many re-flashes to re-flash a re-flash that did not do as they thought it should. Follow me????LOL.
We did see the second CRD the other day. What is really odd, the week after we bought our CRD the price of diesel sky rocketed. The week after we had our bought back from DCX the diesel fuel dropped below gasoline! Rather odd.
I saw a CRD on E-BAY MOTORS that said it got 33 to 35 mpg! I had to tell him he was over stating the mpg. I am not sure if he got the $25,000 he was asking.
farout
My CRD will be turning 20K miles old soon and I still remain quite pleased with it. Fuel economy continues to improve and my daily commute to work in metro D.C. traffic consistently yields 22 to 24 MPG. The CRD, at least mine, remains satisfyingly reliable. The dealer was gracious enough to give me the hoses, which I installed myself. I returned the old ones and my work was inspected by a tech at the dealer who found it to be correctly done. When I had the hoses done the first time, the original ones were replaced by an upgraded version and that did not work to well either.
I have only had three computer flashes done, one very early on and two associated with the F37 recall.
DCX did test the market with us. I believe though that the test was a success for them. In some ways I see the failure of your CRD as a failure of the dealer and the technician. They just did not go far enough to resolve the problems you were having. The CRD tech at the dealer I use told me that they see the CRD's less than the gasser Libertys and they have had fewer over issues with the CRD than the gasser. They sold about forty or fifty of them over the two years it was available. None of them have been re-purchased by DCX.
At present I am enjoying the relatively lower price of diesel fuel versus regular unleaded, about a twenty cent difference at some stations.
I hope you are enjoying your Compass.
Farout, I always thought you were the one.
Oh well, have a good day all!
Over here the technicians turn the AC off when they test drive the CRD, and they gently let the truck accelerate beyond 60 mph. When the AC clutch opens and closes at low RPM, this could be interpretated as shuddering. Never forget the Powertrain Control Module constantly opens and closes the OD clutch according to the position of the flap.
Since I don't have this flap, I only know that the OD is locked when the RPM stay low while accelerating. In 4th gear it locks around 40 mph (~1600 rpm) and will only open if I press the pedal 1/2 way down. It behaves like a manual. The counterpart is driving uphill at 40 mph with a locked 4th gear. I have to use the OD button to force down shifting otherwise I have to accelerate hard all the time.
Nescosmo.
I have 31000 miles on mine.
I don't know how they could fix the speed control, or the constant jerking. I do know that they did say they were going to change the oil & filter, water/fuel filter, & the transfer case and the axle fluids, and new brake pads on all four wheels. As for the fuel gauge, I have no idea what they thought.
I was told DCX had spent a lot in the 25 times it went into repair. I do say the F-37 really was a huge mistake, it never ran with much pep and get up and go after that.
We did like the ability to tow, and we did tow about five times, before the F-37 and it did a good job. This CRD gave problems right off the bat. I am sure that if the problems would have been worked out we would still own it.
As for the Compass, it's a tough little SUV. The 2.4 cyc has some good get up and go, but only can tow 2,000 lbs. We think we may look into a pop up camper, if we can get the weight factor into the right category.
DCX did do a very good job of making it right with us. I sure was stunned that they only charged us $ .05 cents a mile for it's use. That could not have been fair er. On our max-care Chrysler Service Contract, it was transferred to the Compass. They started the service Contract just as if it was a new Service Contract. We had the no interest Service Contract, and we owe less than $800.00 so that worked out very well too. So we came out financially better as well. We had 31,000+ on it when we got the replacement Compass.
I never got up set, or had anything negative to say about the dealer, and praised the help when ever I could, and I believe that the fact we have bought 13 new Chrysler vehicles in the last 12 years just might have had some weight as well. So we are pleased and so ends the tale of our Green CRD.
I am glad you are having good service from your CRD, I don't think they are a bad vehicle. When humans are involved there will always be something that will not be up to standards once and a while.
farout
Nescosmo.
I have disabled the EGR and mine runs better than it ever has.
This turns on the engine light but does not seem to matter to the engine other than running a little better. I think it would be good to have a discussion about whether this is a good idea, or not. Since it is illegal it is referred to as the ORM (off road modification) with a wink.
This turns on a resistor that tells the PCM the EGR is there.
I have found that off the line performance is enhanced as the EGR is programmed to stay open for ~3 seconds off the line and the CRD is quite doggy.
This also keeps the MIL light off.
Pinging noise from engine could imply garbage fuel (low cetane). Try a different brand of fuel or add some cetane improver to see if the pinging goes away. Have you tried B5? That definitely kills any pinging!!!
(understand this as you please :sick: )
Daimler wants to push their little Smart coffin in the heavy traffic to recuperate a projected return over investment. This is a pertinent illustration of finance wanting to rule technology. When I get too close to Smart cars on the road, I tend to let them pass because the occupants are exposed.
Jeep is considered as expensive as a MB over here. At least DC helped local governments collect more value added tax money and made the way clear for asian builders. Anyone interrested in buying a SUV with a 1.2 liter engine :confuse:
Two dealers had it overnight and said they couldn't hear anything unusual. Hmmm. They did tell me that the e-brake is known to rub and cause noise, and that "Chrysler is working on it." Apparently, not too hard. At any rate, the moaning and banging is pretty much gone by now, so our neighbors don't fall down laughing when we back out of the driveway.
That's really my only gripe. We get 30-33 mpg cruising at about 70mph, usually on B99 biodiesel. Surprisingly, it's hard to tell the different in performance or mileage when switching between BioD and dino.
I've read some comments from people who say they'll never use BioD. Why? I can see not using home-brew, but what I buy is produced by legitimate companies certified to meet ASTM standards. I'd rather use a biodegradable, clean-burning fuel made from US-grown biomass than dino from foreign countries.
I believe you have mentioned it before, but can you describe how you connect a relay in place of the EGR and what parts are needed?
Thanks, SemperFi06
On newer vehicles with the higher pressuer, atomizer, fuel rails like the CRD, there is a fear of the injectors being gummed up.
Though the ASTM guidelines are strict. Some in the business believe that they are not stringent enough.
B100 has a shorter shelf/storage life but this affects mostly on-farm, long-term storage customer with 6+ mos or greater storage capacity. Not sure if B99 is much different.
Don't kill the messenger!
Boiler
Connect a 5K potentiometer through the normally open contacts and across the IAT sensor-the back 2 connections on the IAT/Boost Pressure sensor.
Adjust the pot so when the EGR is on the IAT reads about 195F.
When the PCM does not want EGR it reads ambient, and when the EGR is on it reads the higher temperature and it stays happy.
However V M Motori and every part maker related to the engine has said the use of over B-5 voids the warranty, as far as they are concerned. Personally B-10 seens to be ok, but B-99 is asking for big time problems. The turbo is about a $3,000. item and the wax build up in injectors, and outer parts is a huge risk, even with an extended warranty.
Our CRD was replaced by DCX a month ago, we had it in the shop 25 times. When we drove it in to get our reeplacement Jeep Compass we choose, the dealer put a seal on the fuel tank, and put a big red sign on it not to move it, DCX picked it up. We were told they tested many parts to see if they could find a fix before going to the auction. The fact we did not use Bio fuel except once when we were low on fuel we used B-20. The Service manager told us that every thing is looked at in these buy backs. So this is just a note to let you be aware.
farout
I simply put a resistor in that tells the PCM that the temperature is where it is supposed to be when the EGR is supposed to be active.
Nescosmo
It would be an interesting experiment.
Nescosmo.