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For the dealer service, I had to get into an argument as to whether it was covered. They said that it was the DRL and it wasn't covered. I said the DRL and the low-beam are one in the same. I finally spoke to SOA who contacted the dealer and explained the coverages.
This is what's interesting about a pressurized structure, you have that P*A force acting in all directions. When you start to break it into components (in any direction really) you see the forces that are there to balance it out. From there, it's a matter of book-keeping to pick out the information you want to isolate. I'll try to scan or draw a sketch later on.
CRaig
Plus we're talking 230hp vs. 156hp, though you will need premium.
Seems well worth it, though.
You forgot to mention the Suzuki Aerio, 24/29 with AWD, but just 155hp. The Matrix and Vibe make just 123hp with AWD, and that's just not even adequate.
Subaru makes the most efficient AWD vehicles at any given level of performance.
-juice
Left image shows the whole system. Summing vertical forces gives G=W here; ie, the ground reaction force is equal and opposite the load W. The pressure effect does not come into play here for one of two reasons: 1) we only consider external forces on the tank or 2) we consider external and internal forces but the pressure cancels itself out. The interesting thing is that the internal pressure would cancel itself out no matter what the shape, as long as the pressure vessel is closed. Think about any closed shape and you realize that there is always an "opposite" side no matter where you are inside the shape. Since pressure acts the same in all directions, pressure loads summed over a closed loop give a net zero effect.
The middle sketch shows us cutting through the tank and considering the top half. Where we cut through the tank, we have to place reaction forces into the model, drawn here as a force T. The summation shows that T is equal to the difference between the pressure acting on the internal (horizontal) area and the applied load W. If pA is less than W, the sides of the tank are in compression and the tank is carrying part of the load. If pA = W, then the pressure balances out the load and the tank is not carrying any of the load. If pA is greater than W, the sides of the tank are in tension because the internal pressure force actually exceeds the load!
The right sketch shows an analagous version for the bottom half of the tank. Same conclusion is reached here.
This is a very general example, but you can simplify a tire down to the same sort of analysis. And looking at all the details and assumptions here, you can imagine how a real tire would differ from this basic model. Surprisingly, though, if the tire is in static equilibrium under a load, this same basic analysis gives you the right information. With a tire, the real question is what's the area "A", and that may be difficult to determine. My earlier experiments suggest that A is approximately the contact area within a range of pressure close to the design inflation. At low or high pressures, that is likely not the case.
Craig
This is like a Texas Death Match involving Einstein and Goddard!!
Now it's time to increase the dose of my medication...got a huge headache after reading all this stuff.
Craig
Ken
-Brian
Referring to the drawings:
The force G obviously is where the ground is in contact with the tire and it is pushing up. And the force W - which balances out the equation so there is no acceleration upwards - appears to be pressing down on the top of the tire. Can that be right? What is connected to the top of the tire?
Such literalists. :P
The "W" is applied at the axle.
Craig
So if we go back to the drawing in your earlier post - (the circular one) - force W is not acting on the perimeter (am I allowed to call the perimeter a belt package?), it is acting where the "p" is (I'll call that point P) and the equation still is balanced. So what is it that connects point P to the belt?
Stanton
It would be interesting to use Edmunds' TCO tool to figure that out.
But I'm too busy to do that right now. :P
-juice
If we were looking at a rotational balance, the location of the forces (and their lever arm) becomes very important. Here it's not important.
In real life, the axle force would be distributed as a stress over an area, like around a shaft or bearing, but it still adds up to the applied load W. Here we skip over the details and just apply the force W.
So in this case it's somewhat generic -- there is a load W pressing down (due to gravity) somewhere, there is an equal and opposite ground reaction, and then there is the pressure acting on the area. The pressure acts in all directions, we are just considering the component that results in a vertical force.
Craig
If you change out the speakers alone, the stock HU's equalization curve won't match, possibly the impedance as well, and you may end up with something that sounds even less appetizing.
If you are going to go through the trouble of swapping out the speakers, you may want to considering getting something like a Clean Sweep and a new amp. This way, you'll be able to precisely control the sound going to your new speakers while still maintaining control from the stock HU.
Upgrading the speakers can be quite a bit of work -- I haven't done it, but you may find some people over at the "other" forum.
Ken
If you are handy and careful, you will likely do as good or better work yourself. There are a few tricks to getting the door panels off without damage.
1) power the window all the way down
2) remove the small trim piece that is over the mirror gusset, normally you can just grab with your fingers and pull straight outward.
3) on the silver painted piece that surrounds the pull handle, push up at the top near where the handle is. You want to open up a 1/8" gap at the top of the handle. This should expose a little nub at the top of the handle cover, and allow you to pull the top of the handle cover out towards you, then work it off and release a larger nub at the bottom.
4) use a paint-can opener or similar tool to pry off the cover that is under the chrome latch lever (there is a small place to hook the tool).
Steps #3 and #4 expose screws that need to be removed.
5) slide a 1" putty knife (optionally wrapped in one layer of tape) under the bottom corner of the door panel, between the panel and the door frame, and give it a good hard (and sudden) yank towards you. This should free a couple of the fasteners holding the panel on. Then use your hands to work around the edge of the panel (sides and bottom) to pop out the remaining fasteners (be sure to properly account for these later on).
4) the door panel should be only attached at the top now, so tilt it away from the door and lift up to gently unhook the top. The panel will have the window/lock wiring harness still plugged in, so detach it at the connector. The latch lever cables will also still be attached to the panel; you can either unhook these or unscrew the latch cup assembly from the door panel and then just tape it to the door (I chose the latter).
These insructions are for the front doors, but the rears are very similar.
Now, one warning about aftermarket speakers -- they normally take a lot more power to drive than the wimpy factory speakers. While the aftermarket speakers will sound better, they will also not sound as loud because the factory radio is not providing a lot of power. So you gain a little and lose a little. I would recommend the factory upgrade speakers for this reason -- they will sound better and still accomodate the low power of the factory radio.
I have been pretty happy with the sound in my OB XT since adding the factory sub, and have kept the stock speakers. With the bass augmentation of the sub, you can re-adjust your tone settings and get better sound out of the door speakers (ie, not relying on them to handle a lot of bass). Overall, I don't really have any complaints. But then again, I weaned myself off of high-quality car audio many years ago after having a few awesome setups. The combination of theft wariness and aging means I get along OK with most factory systems now!
Good luck!
Craig
P.S. I can give details on the center console, but that should be covered in instructions that come with the subwoofer. One piece of advice -- you can avoid the step of removing the whole bin/armrest section -- in my experience that is not needed. The wire routes easily enough with it in place as long as you lift the parking brake boot off the console. And another piece of advice -- for a little more effort, you can route the sub harness under the carpet so it's not exposed. For some reason, the instructions route it on top of the carpet, where it sticks out like a sore thumb (it has a baby blue cover). The port was even installing them this way at first, but now they are routing under the carpet too.
Craig
-juice
(not the host)
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I was not aware there were factory upgrade speakers available for the 05 models- are those the ones in the Outback VDC and where can I purchase? I was going to go BA or Polk.
Craig, I have reviewed the install instructions for the subwoofer in advance of receiving the unit- just want to make sure I know how to safely pop out those side trim pieces on the center console, if indeed the armrest bin does not need to be removed. I would like to consult you on hiding the sub harness under the carpet - if you can post the technique here please do. Also curious to know how you set the gain and crossover and whether that's difficult to tweak after installation as another poster mentioned somewhere. Thanks,
Mitch
I left gain and crossover in the middle positions on the sub and have not adjusted. You can adjust in place with a long screwdriver, if you want to tailor the sound.
There is a hole in the carpet under the seat. I passed a piece of stiff wire through that hole and up under the carpet to the console area (where the carpet is open). Then taped the sub harness to that and pulled it back through to the underseat area.
Once you get the shifter trim off, there are a couple screws holding the side trim pieces down. Remove the screws, and then gently pull the side trim pieces up and off. They should just barely clear the armrest console if you're careful (same goes for re-installation). You can flex the trim pieces a little to make them slide past. By the way, these trim pieces are a major source of squeaks in most 05 models; not sure if they improved that by the time they made your car. I ended up lining the trim pieces with cloth friction tape to eliminate rubbing and squeaking. You can study them and see where they would be making noise.
Craig
Suggestions?
(Darn and I was just about to demonstrate how the air pressure was tensioning the cords in the tire thus preventing compression and therefore buckling of the sidewall and thus the sidewall was actually holding the vehicle up.)
KarenS, "Subaru Crew Cafe" #, 25 Mar 2002 1:33 pm
(hope that link works, if not, click on subaru crew above and then navigate into the cafe).
I won't argue with you about tension, I agree with that completely! It's the key to the whole pressure vessel concept.
Craig
I was watching one for the guys @ AZP doing aftermarket speakers on a GT today.
The OEM speakers, they are the standard 5.25" front and 4" rear. Both are treated paper cones, but appear of better quality than the non-upgrade speakers on the Impreza.
The OEM speakers are rated @ 30 watts peak, and I'm guesstimating the RMS to be around 15 watts, no more.
The subwoofer is 6" poly materialed cone powered by an internal amp rated @ 120 watts peak. My RMS guesstimate is 50 watts. I've heard that the subs for the newer car models are powered differently in so that the wiring harness has two plugs going to the HU vs one for the older.
The HU is probably 20 watts per channel giving you 80 watts overall, so swapping the OEM speakers for aftermarkets might not be wise. Unless you can find a set of good speakers that can be driven @ as little as 5 watts minimum or less. The speaker's peak and RMS watt wouldn't benefit any if it would take 20 watts from the HU, it's max, to drive it.
Tip on subwoofer install.
When you get yours in, don't mount it on the passenger side. Instead, if GT seat hardware permits, mount on the driver side at the underside of the seat and not on the floor. When you're done, the speaker will be firing towards the floor and the bass quality is much better that way... at least on my WRX wagon. Why the driver's side? Well, I found that there isn't much on the underside of the passenger seat to latch the bungie cord(s) to
-Dave
The 05+ models have 6.5" speakers in the front and rear doors.
Craig
That's interesting to know.
On this guy's '05 GT sedan, it is definitely 5.25" and 4".
-Dave
CRaig
Is the output max. 35 watts on those 6.5" speakers?
-Dave
It has been a long time since I bought the 8-track player for my '77 Cobra II , but I think the same assumption was being made then...
I'm almost positive those are the same.....
regards,
kyfdx
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Subaru actually calls the speakers 6.1" which may refer to the opening or hole. But off-the-shelf 6.5" models fit right in.
Craig
most 6.5S speakers used in many new cars are just 6.5" with a custom basket (I don't know why) and aftermarket 6.5" usually have the necessary hardware to mount in a 6.5S hole. many 5.25" speakers also come with hardware to mount in a 6.5" or 6.5S bracket, also.
my Evo originally came with 6.5" speakers front and rear and now I have 6.5" Memphis M-class coaxials up front and 5.25" JBL coincident source coaxials in the rear-- in a plastic adapter bracket.
btw, older Bose original equipment systems were often weird ohm ratings which prevented the use of aftermarket equipment unless you replaced everything. 10-12 ohm speakers was typical, whereas everyone else uses 4 ohm car audio speakers. (subwoofers can be all kinds of ohm ratings, though.)
~Colin
Coming up to a year of owning my unlimited LGT 5MT wagon. Glad I got it when I did! No more MT in the wagon...BOOO! No more unlimited version...DOUBLE BOO!
Mods have been minimal so far:
OEM subwoofer
Stainless steel brake lines, ceramic brake pads, synthetic brake fluid
Cobb Accessport Stage One
Here in about a week: shorty downpipe (will go to Stage 2 with Accessport), catless uppipe and MTL-R trans/diff fluid
Starting to look into springs/struts as well, Japan-spec LGT struts/springs seem to be the only set-up that doesn't lower the ride height, which is what I am looking for. Price is very high however, hoping some aftermarket company (maybe an Aussie one?) will offer stiffer springs/struts that don't compromise ride height.
Been to a road track school, dyno, and placed second in my division at my first rallycross. Need to hit up an autocross before the end of the season, and looking forward to a winter rallycross/ice racing event.
Car has been great so far, exceeded my expectations. Fits three others and hiking gear without any problem, handles unimproved dirt roads with aplomb, and cruises well on the highway. Have carried Christmas trees, multiple bikes, and a single bed inside the car with the seats down. Have hit 27+ mpg on highway stints where I stay within 5 mph of the speed limit, not too shabby for the power on-hand. Looks good, but doesn't stand-out too much.
I do wish it came a little sharper from the factory (brakes, suspension especially) but the aftermarket still is ramping up for these cars, and the prices are reasonable.
Anyway, off to do some elbow-bending. Cheers!
-B
Congratulations! I guess a bunch of us are right around the 1 year mark now. Still loving my OB XT with 19600 miles on the clock.
I agree with you 100% on the double boos!
Craig
I think the upside to the recent changes in the LGT/OBXT line up is that there weren't many changes with respect to performance. Aside from the deletion of the pre-cat for a secondary airpump, things seem generally the same. The last thing that any owner would like to hear is a big bump in power or handling as was the case with the 2.5i/base OB.
Ken
-juice
Matthew
I've owned two Subarus with the base H4 engine, and they cruise fine on the highway -- the engines are fairly relaxed at legal speeds. The 05+ Leg/OB are very refined, and cruise nicely no matter what engine, but the base H4 is quite good. For 06, you get a slight boost in power too.
In the previous generation Leg/OB I would have no problem recommending the H6 engine for economy -- I often got 28-30mpg in my 02 LL Bean Outback with the H6, which was as good or better than my previous 4 cylinder Outback. That was the 212HP H6, which was a nice engine. The 250HP H6 in the 05+ models is also a great engine, but a bit thirsty. I have my doubts that it could get up in the 28-30mpg range on a regular basis. In fact, at 75-80mph, I know it will not be able to. At lower speeds (55-65mph) even my Outback XT with the turbo gets decent mileage, but I would get run over on most highways...
Definitely take a test drive, I think you'll be pleased.
Craig
To me the H6 is the best near-luxury choice, if your alternatives include quiet cars from brand like Lexus.
If you live a mile high, and climb mountains regularly, then get the turbo.
-juice
Kind regards,
Matthew
What is the spec B model?
Thank you, Matthew
The cost of -5 MPG and the requirement of premium fuel in the turbo and H6 models (I think the H6 requires premium) made my decision.
You will likely be pleased with any of the engines, so enjoy whichever one you end up with.
I would note that the Outbacks, and even the non-OB "limited" weight a bit more, so the base engine in them may feel a tad more sluggish than in the base 2.5i, however the 06 has a little more power.
surely your highway / city mix is heavy on the highway. even then your mileage is quite exceptional... atypically so.
~Colin
Spec B is a model in Japan, B for Bilstein shocks that it has. 18" rims, and there it's on an H6 model with a manual transmission, a powertrain combo that we have not seen here yet.
However, the US might see only the suspension and rims, looks like ours will be a turbo, since those have proven popular here.
-juice