Chevy Silverado - III

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Comments

  • planejaneplanejane Member Posts: 167
    I wonder why - seems like they ALL came with 40 all around? At least me and you anyway. Was there a reason for that? I wonder if anyone at GM would be able to answer that. I want to know dammit! :) What to they think we are a bunch of rocket scientists or mind readers?
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    I have always thought that correct tire pressure gives even wear accross the tread. Too much and it wears more in the middle. Too little and it wears more on the outside edges. So if you notice your getting uneven wear, adjust your tire pressure accordingly. But the factory must have some reason for using 40 pounds. My previous fulls size Blazer I ruined the tires by the time I traded it in by not rotating them. On my 97 I have 48K+ and they still look good with 5/16 inch tread left. I have rotated them every 8K. No rebalance has been nessasary. They are wrangler P265 on a Z71. .... As far as gas milage, do any of you remember how a bicylce rides much easier after you put more air in it? The harder firmer tire rolls easier with less friction. It also goes a hair further per revolution because of less scuffing. .... Rich
  • powerisfunpowerisfun Member Posts: 358
    I'm also at high altitude (5600ft to 7300ft back and forth to work) and getting great mileage (21mpg with a '98 Vortec 350). I have a theory that for an empty truck, high altitude may improve mileage. I know that it goes against the way most people think and maybe I'm wrong, but since trucks are so much less aerodynamic than cars, I think the lower atmospheric density at high altitude really lowers wind resistance. I know there is also less air for the engine to breathe, but I think it more than evens out with the lower wind resistance. Just a thought.
    -Tim
  • dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Tim (powerisfun) & kszabo,
    Here in Washington state, I've also found that when I'm driving at a higher altitude (over 3,000 ft) I've gotten the best gas mileage ever with both my 1997 Saturn SW2 and my 1989 Silverado 2wd, 5.7 (soon to be 2000 Silverado LS, 5.3, Z-71........I hope).

    David H.
  • planejaneplanejane Member Posts: 167
    I scanned my truck picture and the quality sucked! I have to take another picture. Actually the picture wasn't that good of quality anyways (like yours, Tim) - those were some nice pictures.

    So, will try again with next roll of film.
  • hknoepflehknoepfle Member Posts: 45
    Any information on the GM gas tank settlement? I could sure use $1000 when it is time to buy!
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Rich,

    I understand the wear....that's why I need to go lower...the outside of the tread is not getting worn. However I think I'm at the lowest end already? Too bad the dupes at Firestone don't even know their own tires to tell me what the lowest PSI would be for this truck application.

    Cindy,

    Digital Cameras on the higher end are sweet. Instant pics...if they be bad...who cares...delete and take another!! make sure the scanner is in it's highest res. mode.

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Another thought is....even though the sidewall bulge looks OK at 40....what is happening while going down the road? How much flexing is going on while she is a bumpin' down the road?
    Usually I check tires once in a blue moon...and they have always been fine. What's my problem now?...I got a bug up my rear to know the answer..and I'm gonna find out!

    - Tim
  • goodbidgoodbid Member Posts: 8
    okay guys, i have a 2500 ext cab, 4x4, LT, limited slip. great truck except for one thing. this truck left the factory in superb condition and was rail road to the west coast. picked it up early august after waiting 8 months for this 2000 year model. dealer prepped it and away we went. unforunately, when we first washed it we noticed a paint suface and glass problem over the vast majority of the truck.

    called the dealer and they said it was fallout, later said it was hot rail metal filing dust. it adhered to the paint. took it in and was assured that the process to remove it would not hurt the paint. guess what!!! the process scratched the paint lightly and in some spots heavily. you can see small spots on the paint. a victory red paint. apparently checking with others, they have had the same problem. it is not as noticable on light colored paint, but more so on dark paints. in the sun light it is bearly noticable, but in the garage under flourecent light it is so damn obvious.

    called chevy assistance 800. NO help, says see dealer. have asked dealer to call factory rep or regional manager. don't have much faith i will get a sastisfactory answer with the run around i have had.

    so check the paint very carefully before accepting the truck. i am so disappointed. love the truck, but another chevy paint problem truck again for me.

    chevy and dealers know of this rail dust problem on glass and body, but usually buff it out before you get the vechicle. ignorance on our part.

    CHECK YOUR PAINT JOB CAREFULLY OR YOU'RE UP THE CREEK.
  • lexmarklexmark Member Posts: 68
    All my previous purchases have been made on "in-stock" vehicles.

    When ordering a truck from the factory, how do you go about negotiating the purchase price? I don't want to get into one of those, "it's so complicated ordering this sucker with exactly what you want. . . that you get frustrated and are eventually willing to pay anything."

    Thank you in advance.

    What I am looking for is the general process you go through when ordering.
  • mtbh2oskimtbh2oski Member Posts: 13
    I've heard that the clay bar paint treatment works well for the railroad dust. My truck is supposed to be here next month, and I plan to use the clay bar on it and then a good couple of coats of wax to start it off on the right foot. You should be able to take care of the minor scratches ... there's lots of products out there for that.
  • redwolf069redwolf069 Member Posts: 2
    hey thanx for answering my ? i might just drop in a 4.8 liter V-8 in my 94 chevy it is a shortbed and crew cab and i do really want to make it a automatic cause i dont like messing around with the stick shift and all but for now what can i put on the 4.3 liter to give it some noticeable boost for now?
  • goodbidgoodbid Member Posts: 8
    i don't know what a clay bar is, but the dealer buffed the paint problem with a supposedly nonabrasive soft clay. Yeah, right!!! the buffing pushed those metal railroad filing all over the clear coat and into the paint, also. this was a super paint from the factory if you didn't look at the metal filings from the hot railraod dust that adhered to the glass (used razor blade to remove that) or the paint. the paint wasn't scratched until they attempted to remove the hot dust metal filing that adhered to the paint. if they supposedly wrapped the vechicle to protect it then the wrap MUST of had a thousand pin holes from this dust problem. chevy knows of the problem, they just hope if goes away, by our lack of knowledge of it. what a great truck, but lousy shipping preparation for the customer to receive a well manufactured product.
  • powerisfunpowerisfun Member Posts: 358
    dch0300:
    Interesting about your cars getting better mileage at altitude. I thought it would just be for trucks since cars today are much more aerodynamic and wind resistance wouldn't be as big a factor. I guess that indicates that the computers are doing a great job of compensating for the lower air pressure for the engine breathing. There is still a power loss though, for my truck, anyway. I drove down to lower altitude (about 1000 ft.) and my truck felt like it had a suped up 454 in it (that may be a little exaggeration, but you know what I mean).

    mgdvhman:
    Since you're caring about the tire wear so much, does that mean you're going to keep your truck for longer than 2 years? :)

    -powerisfun
  • dave40dave40 Member Posts: 582
    send your Pic's to dp2000@webtv.net

    http://community.webtv.net/dp2000/TRUCKFORCEACTION
  • jkaniajkania Member Posts: 40
    I am currently waiting to order a 4dr LT. But when I wanted to get a good deal, I did this. I typed up a sheet entitled Invitation to Bid. Then I listed the truck I wanted, and all the options. I made it clear this would be a cash deal, no trade-in. Then I put spaces for the dealers best price, salesman signature, sales mgr signature. On the back, I put the Rules of bidding; This will be a closed bid. No dealer will be told of another dealers bid. There will be no undercutting of bids. I believe with this approach, the dealer has to give me his best price, and no haggling. The best price I got was $100 over invoice. Hope I can place an order soon. That 4th door is holding everything up.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    The tires a designed to carry a certain load at a specified pressure.
    The sidewalls deflect a certain amount at this load.
    The tire then makes a footprint of X square inches.
    Ideally we should maintain that design footprint at whatever load we are carrying.
    Now comes the hard part -
    -what is the load on the tires at max load on truck?
    -what is the load on the tire at today's load?

    To maintain the same footprint we should reduce the pressure the same amount we reduce the load.

    If the max load on the tires is 3000lbs at 80psi, then if the empty load is 1500lbs the pressure should be set to 40 psi to maintain the same tire footprint.

    The reasoning is: the tire footprint can be measured in square inches. Tire pressure is lbs per SQUARE INCH. At 80psi a tire will have 40 square inches of footprint to support 3200lbs. At 40 psi the same 40 square inches will support 1600lbs.

    On my 1500 series the actual weight was balanced between front and rear, 3200lbs each end, 1600lbs each tire. 40psi reccomended pressure = 40square inches per tire. When running empty the rear weight went down to 2000lbs and the front to 2400lbs. So I could maintain the same footprint by reducing the tire pressurs to 30 front/25 rear for maximum comfort, or leave it at 40 psi for lowest rolling resistance and maximum fuel economy. I comprimised at 35 psi, so I could safely add load with out overloading the tires.

    The tires are rated to carry 2000 lbs each at 50 psi. Since the max load worked out to 1600lbs, the reccomended pressure is 40psi.
    (Actual weight divided by Max weight) times max pressure equals reccomended pressure.

    1600lbs divided by 2000lbs times 50 psi = 40 psi.

    I hope I didn't raise more questions than I answered.

    Mike
  • billm44billm44 Member Posts: 5
    info. I called today but they said that the computer (department) that supplies that info was not available after 5:30 p.m. ET. I'll certainly check up on it tomorrow. I believe that the vast majority of the trucks rolling off the line are as advertised and satisfy the customer's expectations, but it is nice to know how to contend with those few that don't measure up! I am a bit apprehensive about the locking rear differential there seems to be more complaints than positive comments, we'll just have to see. The dealer contends that there is no making changes after the order is acknowledged and an order number given, is this true or a bunch of bunk? Thanks for the positive comments on the Indigo Blue exterior with the Oak Cloth interior combination, I don't feel like the Lone "Stranger" now! Anyone with a 2000 LS does the truck come standard with the auto dimming mirrors and 8 point compass or must it be ordered as an option? Thanks for all the info....had to break out the slide rule to compute tire preassure!

    Bill
  • dave40dave40 Member Posts: 582
    I thought you might be interested in this truck I spotted up in Williams Lake B.C. Canada. It seems the dealer (Caribou GM) offers this special "ZE5 Grappler" package on their 3/4 ton 4x4's. It is very popular with all of the loggers in the area. There are tons of these trucks up there. The package includes stainless steel rocker covers, aluminum bed rails, rear window protector, BFG AT's and, in many cases, custom wheels and a grill guard. It's a pitty you can't get it down here in the states. Picture at Truck Force
    http://community.webtv.net/dp2000/TRUCKFORCEACTION
  • redwolf069redwolf069 Member Posts: 2
    hey i asked a ? about what can i do to my 4.3 liter v-6 in a full sized chevy to give it some noticeable horsepower gains and no one answered it =( please answer and also should i change the gears in the truck?
  • ftpftp Member Posts: 16
    Auto dimming mirror is an OPTION for the LS version. For 2000, it has both the compass and the outside temp. reading. Cost is $175/$150 (sticker/invoice).

    BTW, for any one that is interested in more 4 door news, I was told today that the 2500 will not be available with the 4th door till even "more later". All 1500's after Jan. 1 will have the 4th door as standard equipment. Guess a base sticker price increase will accompany the standard feature. For those of you not wanting the 4th door, get moving before they are gone. (This is based on info from a local dealer.)

    Frank
  • ktbons2ktbons2 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if the Silverado Half-ton Extended cab can handle snowplowing?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Mike,

    Great formula....when ther brew wears off..I'll look at it again tomorrow.

    Tim,

    I plan on selling in two years...but want maximun tire life so I don't have to throw a new set on before i sell. I've got the on/off road tires...that I believe will wear faster. I'm guessing at about 40-45K in two years. Got a snowballs chance the tires will make it that long and still look good to sell. maybe I'll throw a set of aftermarket wheels and tires on soon...and keep them when I sell...and toss the stocks back on?

    - Tim
  • zbad71zbad71 Member Posts: 226
    It could probably do it ok as far as power, but considering snow plowing is one of the hardest things you can use a pickup for, I would get the beefiest truck available, i.e. Heavy Duty to do it if it were me.

    Its like buying a 1/2 ton to tow 8000 lbs all the time. Yeah, its rated for that but I don't think its a good idea to do with a 1/2 ton. I would advise something more capable with "ease" to do the job. Will do the job better and have less repairs and maintenance.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I'm not sure I'd plow with ANY extended cab?

    if i did...a 2500 for sure.

    - Tim
  • volkejvolkej Member Posts: 108
    This is what I did before ordering my LS:
    1. Read the Edmunds area about holdbacks and find out what the holdback is for the vehicle you want.
    2. Go to the Chevrolet web page, build the truck you want and print out the window sticker.
    3. Use a site, such as www.costcoauto.com, that allows you to build the vehicle you want and shows both invoice and MSRP side by side. Then enter the same info that you used to build the Chevy window sticker.
    4. Use another site, such as www.carsdirect.com, and find out what you can pay for the truck over the web.
    5. Take the reports from steps 2 and 3 above to a dealer, give them the window sticker and tell them you want to pay invoice price for the truck, exactly as you have it configured. In your negotiations keep in mind what you can get it for over the web and use that for a benchmark.

    The dealer I went to gave me a song and dance about having to pay MSRP if I ordered the truck, instead of picking one off the lot. That is, until I explained holdbacks to the salesman and indicated I was perfectly willing to go elsewhere to purchase the truck.
    I was promptly delivered to the fleet manager who sold me the truck at 1% over invoice.
    The whole deal took less than an hour. Now I'm just waiting for a build date.
    Good luck.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    lexmark - you can read many approaches to ordering on this site. Basically you go in informed with some idea what you want to pay and make a deal. You give them a check that day for a nominal amount, typically the amount over invoice, and walk away with something in writing showing what you will get and for how much. Watch out for add-ons. Be sure to ask if that is the final total. One thing most people have to pay is an adversiting fee of around 1%. Apparently this would be buried in the margin if you pay MSRP but if you go from invoice they add it. Some people say they didn't have to pay it. You aren't really obligated legally to buy it until you sign the real purchase order. Also as someone mentioned, you can't make changes after GM gives an order number without starting the process over. After they give the order num they start fitting it into the production schedule and allocating parts so the options affect that process.

    Check out the "what did you pay for your Silverado topic" for many stories.
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    If the compass/temp mirror isn't an option on LS models I got ripped off because I paid extra for it! 2000 LS reg cab 2500 ordered mid Aug.
  • foxtrot722foxtrot722 Member Posts: 3
    Hey, was looking at my 99 z71 regular cab and noticed the right side was about 1/2 inch lower than the left side. I check at the front tow hooks and at the frame just behind the front bumper.I looked at the adjusting bolts for the torsun bars and one was about half way and the other was screw in all the way in. The side that was all the way in is the one needed to raise the low side. Anyone else had this problem?
  • jweimholtjweimholt Member Posts: 15
    Hello all,

    I own a 99 Z71 Silverado, LS, extended cab.
    I love this truck! Two-tone pewter/blk w/blk
    bed and step rails.
    At about 10k miles I started noticing a tap/knock
    sensation radiating to the steering wheel.
    Dealership couldn't find anything.
    Truck is now approaching 13k and sensation is becoming more pronounced, especially at slower speeds ie 0 - 45 mph. This is only noticeable on roads that are slightly bumpy.
    I can duplicate this by tapping with ball peen on " steering drive train ".
    Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
  • werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    lexmark -
    i would agree with both vince4 (#945) and jkania (#932) on ordering. additionally, it's probably your best way to go. my experience has been that you stand a better chance to get a lower price when ordering - generally. first, you get exactly what you want. second, you have the option of going to any dealer you choose. hence, setting up a competition. you may not be able to do this if you only find one or two dealers who have the truck you want.
    arm yourself with the info that vince4 mentioned. SHOW the dealer the "dealer holdback" article on edmunds. tell him you know he's making 3% or whatever it is...and that's his commission. also, if your experience is like mine, you'll know more about the vehicle you want than joe-snuffy the sales-guy does. when he proves his incompetence, tell him you want to talk to someone who knows what's up. this removes one of the buffers that car dealers use. the middle man is out of the game early. lastly, never be afraid to walk out if they don't give you what you want. you can always come back (and get something like a bedliner or cd player thrown in for free for being so nice and returning to their humble lot). chances are, unless you're asking them to lose money on the vehicle, they'll chase you into the parking lot. i've had that happen to me twice. of all things, remember this: you're in the driver's seat. it's YOUR money. don't give it away, make them earn it. make them sweat. (by the way, if you ARE giving money away, let me know, i'll send you my address) good luck!
  • mdw1000mdw1000 Member Posts: 171
    Last night I had to haul some roofing shingles for my boss. Ended up being almost 2000 lbs worth. Truck was really squatting at the rear end but it handled it OK. Anybody know how much weight you can safely put in the bed of the truck, and if that amount was stupid to put in my truck? (The GAVR doesn't show how much weight is on the axle with nothing in the bed).
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Check the sticker in the glove box - my reg cab long bed says about 1300 lbs.

    Chevy said total payload including passengers and optional equpt max of 2000...

    Mine squats quite a bit above 1000. When hauling rock or gravel, I try not to let the rear axle contact the jounce bumper and drive very easily. Run 55 psi all around....
  • volkejvolkej Member Posts: 108
    The holdback is not commission to the salesman, it's money to the dealership, the salesman gets no part of it.
    That's why I was pushed to the fleet manager so quickly, the salesman was looking at little or no commission and didn't want to waste the time on me. That was fine with me, I didn't want to waste my time either.
  • kantonkanton Member Posts: 142
    went to dealer. there is a bulletin out about harsh shifting and clunking when down shifting. it has something to do with the transfer case. anyway they fixed the problem, and put the "blue" transfer case fluid in it.

    has anyone noticed any weird shifting patterns, or hesitation upon shifting? i don't know if these are actual problems or if I am just being very picky?
  • RoclesRocles Member Posts: 982
    Hey! How come this topic has over 900 posts? I thought the "Golden Rule" of Edmunds and Meredith was that they freeze a topic after 500 posts and start up another one?
  • RoclesRocles Member Posts: 982
    Your truck will be fine. I just wouldn't do it very often. Hell, I've seen plenty of trucks over limit and it never has killed them--just probably the axel bearings...
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    2000 specs:
    ...Passengers..cargo..blah blah blah..

    1500 - from 1779 lbs. - 2368...depending on kind of cab and length of box..and 2 or 4WD

    2500 - from 2434 - 3334...

    Regular cabs hold more than Ext. cabs...and 2500 holds more than 1500 (duh!)

    In 1500's...4WD have about 200 LESS capacity
    In 2500's...4WD have about 500 -600 MORE capacity

    A 4WD 2500 Ext.Cab short box holds about 75lbs more than a long box...(go figure?)...must be the 4WD

    - Tim
  • ajdawsonajdawson Member Posts: 16
    My 99 silverado ext cab had a knocking/tapping noise from the front end that I could feel in the steering at slow speeds over mild bumps. It started at about 3000miles and they finally fixed it at 11,000 miles. It was the "steering sector shaft". This is the part that can be seen from both sides of the firewall. It's about a foot long and attaches to the steering column. It drove me nuts for 8000 miles and several visits to the dealer. Finally I have my GREAT truck back.(except I still have the wind noise at the ext. cab window, they are waiting for a back ordered part!)
    Anyone need further info...let me know.
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    I got a recall notice from GM on this and they will either refund $175 or install the cooler at no charge. I posted it here because Meredith had frozen the missing cooler topic.
  • ktbons2ktbons2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks! The price on the 1/2 ton was right. I do plowing with an extended cab now but it's a 3/4 ton. It's long, I can't do short drives, but it works for parking lots.
  • kernickkernick Member Posts: 4,072
    Tim
    I think the reason the short box is rated 75 lb higher than the long box, is that the short box weighs about 75 lb. less - probably not exactly?
    What does that 1.5 feet of metal weigh?

    That way the gross vehicle weight is the same when loaded.
  • markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    What's your payload sticker say in your glove box. Bet it's alot lower than you expected?

    How about the rest of yawl?
  • tuckyboy1tuckyboy1 Member Posts: 36
    chevy4me,

    Are you driving the 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? Also, where is the transmission cooler located? I haven't looked under the hood yet, but intend to do so after your post.

    - tuckyboy1
  • rubluetoorubluetoo Member Posts: 175
    Look behind the bowtie on the Chevy.
  • stevostevo Member Posts: 37
    Have 2000 z-71 without fender flares. Anyone know how much the flares cost if dealer orders them? Stopped by the local dealer and lady behind the counter said she had looked it up for someone else and they were about $185 per wheel! That would be $740 total! She said she was sure of this. I don't see how that could be right. I'll talk to someone else when I have time.

    Can a cd changer be installed and operated by the factory radio controls? Have the single cd but sure would like to have a changer.
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    The CD changer would replace the single player; yes, it can be controlled by the factory radio. It is the same changer/radio combo that goes into other cars, such as the Corvette. The cost is fairly high, though. I seem to recall $600 list price, discounted to about $400 or so in my case if I wanted one for the 12 cd changer. I declined.

    Crutchfield supposedly has units that will work with the factory radio also.

    I noticed that recent arrivals at the dealer for 2000 models have the CD player as part of the radio and a cassette added where the CD player used to go on those trucks with both cassette abd cd. Personally I like the old system both for looks and if I ever do change my mind and add a cd changer ... with the new 2000 model, I couldn't have CD changer and cassette. I still use cassettes quite often.

    Got my truck detailed yesterday (detailing is part of the purchase at this dealership). Yes the truck is only three months old ... but this detailing has made it look better than ever!

    Richard
  • vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    You can buy fender flairs aftermarket. Bushwacker makes some in black that can be painted. Performance Products sells a set of 4 for $320. Don't know if they make them for 99/00 yet.
  • chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    I have a half ton equiped with the optional trailering special equipment but some trucks built around the first of the year were missing the aux. trans. cooler. It does sit right behind the bowtie . look at the archive on this topic for more info.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Yeah...that's my guess for the weight difference. Kinda like the weight diff. in ext.cabs is lower than regular cabs..by about the weight of the cab...and 4WD is about the weight of the 4WD. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure this out.

    The sticker in the glove box?...dunno...I hauled another pallet of retaining wall blocks at about 3000 Lbs...and it was fine by me. Just about level in the rear.

    - Tim
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