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Comments
-Tim
Here in Washington state, I've also found that when I'm driving at a higher altitude (over 3,000 ft) I've gotten the best gas mileage ever with both my 1997 Saturn SW2 and my 1989 Silverado 2wd, 5.7 (soon to be 2000 Silverado LS, 5.3, Z-71........I hope).
David H.
So, will try again with next roll of film.
I understand the wear....that's why I need to go lower...the outside of the tread is not getting worn. However I think I'm at the lowest end already? Too bad the dupes at Firestone don't even know their own tires to tell me what the lowest PSI would be for this truck application.
Cindy,
Digital Cameras on the higher end are sweet. Instant pics...if they be bad...who cares...delete and take another!! make sure the scanner is in it's highest res. mode.
- Tim
Usually I check tires once in a blue moon...and they have always been fine. What's my problem now?...I got a bug up my rear to know the answer..and I'm gonna find out!
- Tim
called the dealer and they said it was fallout, later said it was hot rail metal filing dust. it adhered to the paint. took it in and was assured that the process to remove it would not hurt the paint. guess what!!! the process scratched the paint lightly and in some spots heavily. you can see small spots on the paint. a victory red paint. apparently checking with others, they have had the same problem. it is not as noticable on light colored paint, but more so on dark paints. in the sun light it is bearly noticable, but in the garage under flourecent light it is so damn obvious.
called chevy assistance 800. NO help, says see dealer. have asked dealer to call factory rep or regional manager. don't have much faith i will get a sastisfactory answer with the run around i have had.
so check the paint very carefully before accepting the truck. i am so disappointed. love the truck, but another chevy paint problem truck again for me.
chevy and dealers know of this rail dust problem on glass and body, but usually buff it out before you get the vechicle. ignorance on our part.
CHECK YOUR PAINT JOB CAREFULLY OR YOU'RE UP THE CREEK.
When ordering a truck from the factory, how do you go about negotiating the purchase price? I don't want to get into one of those, "it's so complicated ordering this sucker with exactly what you want. . . that you get frustrated and are eventually willing to pay anything."
Thank you in advance.
What I am looking for is the general process you go through when ordering.
Interesting about your cars getting better mileage at altitude. I thought it would just be for trucks since cars today are much more aerodynamic and wind resistance wouldn't be as big a factor. I guess that indicates that the computers are doing a great job of compensating for the lower air pressure for the engine breathing. There is still a power loss though, for my truck, anyway. I drove down to lower altitude (about 1000 ft.) and my truck felt like it had a suped up 454 in it (that may be a little exaggeration, but you know what I mean).
mgdvhman:
Since you're caring about the tire wear so much, does that mean you're going to keep your truck for longer than 2 years?
-powerisfun
http://community.webtv.net/dp2000/TRUCKFORCEACTION
The sidewalls deflect a certain amount at this load.
The tire then makes a footprint of X square inches.
Ideally we should maintain that design footprint at whatever load we are carrying.
Now comes the hard part -
-what is the load on the tires at max load on truck?
-what is the load on the tire at today's load?
To maintain the same footprint we should reduce the pressure the same amount we reduce the load.
If the max load on the tires is 3000lbs at 80psi, then if the empty load is 1500lbs the pressure should be set to 40 psi to maintain the same tire footprint.
The reasoning is: the tire footprint can be measured in square inches. Tire pressure is lbs per SQUARE INCH. At 80psi a tire will have 40 square inches of footprint to support 3200lbs. At 40 psi the same 40 square inches will support 1600lbs.
On my 1500 series the actual weight was balanced between front and rear, 3200lbs each end, 1600lbs each tire. 40psi reccomended pressure = 40square inches per tire. When running empty the rear weight went down to 2000lbs and the front to 2400lbs. So I could maintain the same footprint by reducing the tire pressurs to 30 front/25 rear for maximum comfort, or leave it at 40 psi for lowest rolling resistance and maximum fuel economy. I comprimised at 35 psi, so I could safely add load with out overloading the tires.
The tires are rated to carry 2000 lbs each at 50 psi. Since the max load worked out to 1600lbs, the reccomended pressure is 40psi.
(Actual weight divided by Max weight) times max pressure equals reccomended pressure.
1600lbs divided by 2000lbs times 50 psi = 40 psi.
I hope I didn't raise more questions than I answered.
Mike
Bill
http://community.webtv.net/dp2000/TRUCKFORCEACTION
BTW, for any one that is interested in more 4 door news, I was told today that the 2500 will not be available with the 4th door till even "more later". All 1500's after Jan. 1 will have the 4th door as standard equipment. Guess a base sticker price increase will accompany the standard feature. For those of you not wanting the 4th door, get moving before they are gone. (This is based on info from a local dealer.)
Frank
Great formula....when ther brew wears off..I'll look at it again tomorrow.
Tim,
I plan on selling in two years...but want maximun tire life so I don't have to throw a new set on before i sell. I've got the on/off road tires...that I believe will wear faster. I'm guessing at about 40-45K in two years. Got a snowballs chance the tires will make it that long and still look good to sell. maybe I'll throw a set of aftermarket wheels and tires on soon...and keep them when I sell...and toss the stocks back on?
- Tim
Its like buying a 1/2 ton to tow 8000 lbs all the time. Yeah, its rated for that but I don't think its a good idea to do with a 1/2 ton. I would advise something more capable with "ease" to do the job. Will do the job better and have less repairs and maintenance.
if i did...a 2500 for sure.
- Tim
1. Read the Edmunds area about holdbacks and find out what the holdback is for the vehicle you want.
2. Go to the Chevrolet web page, build the truck you want and print out the window sticker.
3. Use a site, such as www.costcoauto.com, that allows you to build the vehicle you want and shows both invoice and MSRP side by side. Then enter the same info that you used to build the Chevy window sticker.
4. Use another site, such as www.carsdirect.com, and find out what you can pay for the truck over the web.
5. Take the reports from steps 2 and 3 above to a dealer, give them the window sticker and tell them you want to pay invoice price for the truck, exactly as you have it configured. In your negotiations keep in mind what you can get it for over the web and use that for a benchmark.
The dealer I went to gave me a song and dance about having to pay MSRP if I ordered the truck, instead of picking one off the lot. That is, until I explained holdbacks to the salesman and indicated I was perfectly willing to go elsewhere to purchase the truck.
I was promptly delivered to the fleet manager who sold me the truck at 1% over invoice.
The whole deal took less than an hour. Now I'm just waiting for a build date.
Good luck.
Check out the "what did you pay for your Silverado topic" for many stories.
I own a 99 Z71 Silverado, LS, extended cab.
I love this truck! Two-tone pewter/blk w/blk
bed and step rails.
At about 10k miles I started noticing a tap/knock
sensation radiating to the steering wheel.
Dealership couldn't find anything.
Truck is now approaching 13k and sensation is becoming more pronounced, especially at slower speeds ie 0 - 45 mph. This is only noticeable on roads that are slightly bumpy.
I can duplicate this by tapping with ball peen on " steering drive train ".
Any feedback is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
i would agree with both vince4 (#945) and jkania (#932) on ordering. additionally, it's probably your best way to go. my experience has been that you stand a better chance to get a lower price when ordering - generally. first, you get exactly what you want. second, you have the option of going to any dealer you choose. hence, setting up a competition. you may not be able to do this if you only find one or two dealers who have the truck you want.
arm yourself with the info that vince4 mentioned. SHOW the dealer the "dealer holdback" article on edmunds. tell him you know he's making 3% or whatever it is...and that's his commission. also, if your experience is like mine, you'll know more about the vehicle you want than joe-snuffy the sales-guy does. when he proves his incompetence, tell him you want to talk to someone who knows what's up. this removes one of the buffers that car dealers use. the middle man is out of the game early. lastly, never be afraid to walk out if they don't give you what you want. you can always come back (and get something like a bedliner or cd player thrown in for free for being so nice and returning to their humble lot). chances are, unless you're asking them to lose money on the vehicle, they'll chase you into the parking lot. i've had that happen to me twice. of all things, remember this: you're in the driver's seat. it's YOUR money. don't give it away, make them earn it. make them sweat. (by the way, if you ARE giving money away, let me know, i'll send you my address) good luck!
Chevy said total payload including passengers and optional equpt max of 2000...
Mine squats quite a bit above 1000. When hauling rock or gravel, I try not to let the rear axle contact the jounce bumper and drive very easily. Run 55 psi all around....
That's why I was pushed to the fleet manager so quickly, the salesman was looking at little or no commission and didn't want to waste the time on me. That was fine with me, I didn't want to waste my time either.
has anyone noticed any weird shifting patterns, or hesitation upon shifting? i don't know if these are actual problems or if I am just being very picky?
...Passengers..cargo..blah blah blah..
1500 - from 1779 lbs. - 2368...depending on kind of cab and length of box..and 2 or 4WD
2500 - from 2434 - 3334...
Regular cabs hold more than Ext. cabs...and 2500 holds more than 1500 (duh!)
In 1500's...4WD have about 200 LESS capacity
In 2500's...4WD have about 500 -600 MORE capacity
A 4WD 2500 Ext.Cab short box holds about 75lbs more than a long box...(go figure?)...must be the 4WD
- Tim
Anyone need further info...let me know.
I think the reason the short box is rated 75 lb higher than the long box, is that the short box weighs about 75 lb. less - probably not exactly?
What does that 1.5 feet of metal weigh?
That way the gross vehicle weight is the same when loaded.
How about the rest of yawl?
Are you driving the 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? Also, where is the transmission cooler located? I haven't looked under the hood yet, but intend to do so after your post.
- tuckyboy1
Can a cd changer be installed and operated by the factory radio controls? Have the single cd but sure would like to have a changer.
Crutchfield supposedly has units that will work with the factory radio also.
I noticed that recent arrivals at the dealer for 2000 models have the CD player as part of the radio and a cassette added where the CD player used to go on those trucks with both cassette abd cd. Personally I like the old system both for looks and if I ever do change my mind and add a cd changer ... with the new 2000 model, I couldn't have CD changer and cassette. I still use cassettes quite often.
Got my truck detailed yesterday (detailing is part of the purchase at this dealership). Yes the truck is only three months old ... but this detailing has made it look better than ever!
Richard
The sticker in the glove box?...dunno...I hauled another pallet of retaining wall blocks at about 3000 Lbs...and it was fine by me. Just about level in the rear.
- Tim