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Thanks.
The 3.6 may have the edge in historical reliability.
For us the larger engine with auto was a very simple and easy preferred choice and after all, we have down sized from much larger V8's...
If you know you will have to order - then yes you can probably do a little better.
I am new to this forum. This is my first post. We are planning to buy a 2010 Outback 3.6R Limited model. We live in NY metro area. Have been told by many dealers that 3.6R Limited model is in extreme short supply and waiting period on a factory order would be 6-8 weeks. Given this short supply, can we believe the advertisements of dealers offering the 3% discount on the invoice price? Anybody on this forum has bought 3.6R Limited in NY metro area, if so what price have you paid? Also, do you get discounts on the options such as moonroof and or NAV package?
Appreciate any help! Thanks in advance.
Yes you can believe the discounts, without that and since the Tax deduction will be gone and lower cost financing in doubt - you can expect 3% or more.
Yes the discount applies to the entire purchase except TTL and dealer paperwork.
Any thoughts on what a more fair price would be OTD?
I'm okay with the styling vs. the newer models, but was any significant safety feature added to the Outback in the last couple of years that should make me consider foregoing what seems like could be a decent deal if I could get the price down a bit?
Would really appreciate any advice.
As far as pricing - that's just the "asking" price for those who just fell off the turnip truck. If its a certified vehicle at a dealer, its pretty close to reality because the turbo XT was a pricier vehicle when new than a base 2.5. The warranty for a certified vehicle would be worth a fair bit, so the final negotiated price would be closer to the asking price. If its a manual trans, its more rare, but you can use that in bargaining because so many people can't drive sticks (but understand that the MT XT has a devoted following). Whether a MT or an auto XT, you should be able to get a couple of thousand off, maybe a little more if there is no warranty.
The asking price is not so out of line as to rule out a test drive, carfax and mechanic's checkup. If it passes all 3, you're then ready to negotiate in confidence. Good luck.
If you don't mind, can you tell me what price did you pay for the 3.6R Limited and for what options?
Regards
Maybe I should play it safe and restrict my buying only to cars that still have some of the factory warranty.
In this case, no warranty means you have to get it inspected by a mechanic. Ask the dealer if its ok - if not, then walk, but say that because of the turbo, you want to have it checked. If they ok the inspection, it will be the best $75-100 investment you can make. Then you'll be ready to negotiate. Take your time, start low, walk out at least once, or bring along an experienced negotiator.
You can buy a great used car. In March 05, I bought a like-new 02 Chevy Prizm with 25K miles on it for 5250 cash (several walk-outs and call backs) from a Chrysler-Jeep dealer who took it in trade locally & wanted 10,299. I drove it for 4 years without a single problem, Now my daughter is driving it at 99K miles and it still has been problem-free. I've done that many times - this is just the most recent, because my more recent purchases have both been new subarus.
Good luck!
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee9c851/38992#MSG38992
There are pros there who work in dealerships and can give you the wholesale value, as well as a reasonable markup for a sale.
OTOH I'd use the lack of stabiltiy control as a negotiation tactic to try to get the seller to knock some more off the price. Make sure that there are good service records, COMPLETE and if it's within a year or 10,000 miles of needing any of the "major" services that they do those or knock 120% of the cost of same off the price. Insist on new tires and no chips in the windscreen too.
easypar
I am in Madison, CT. Any tip on CT dealer? I am new to Subaru.
I wouldn't make lack of it a deal killer, I had no TC/VDC on any car until I bought my '09 Outback Ltd. last July. It's nice to have, to be sure, but in any case you must realize that AWD will never overcome the laws of physics and it is in no way a free pass to drive less than prudently for conditions.
Good luck on the hunt....
Stability control is a plus, absolutely.
But...so is a long-travel suspension that keeps the tires on the ground. Plus AWD. Plus the limited-slip rear diff on many models, prior to the arrival of VDC.
Subarus were traction specialists before stability control even existed.
Even with the strong sales I didn't have any trouble getting one for less than invoice and I know of at least one person who got a few hundred better than I did.
Once I had decided on the color/interior combo they looked to see how many were in the Denver distribution center, picked it up the next day and added the the splash guards, wind deflectors etc. They didn't balk about the price.
Good luck.
easypar
* 2010 Subaru Outback, 4 cylinder, Premium, CVT
* All Weather package with moon roof (Option Code "06")
* Conv / Protect 1B - Wheel arch moldings, splash guards, rear bumper cover (Option code "LN8")
* All Weather floor mats (Option Code "B0A")
* Partial Zero Emission or PZEV -required in PA,NJ,NY
* Destination Charge
MSRP: $28,437
Invoice: $26,586
Selling Price: $25,826
Discount (under invoice): -$760
Doc fee: $120
PA Transit fee: $5
PA Tire Tax: $5
NJ Sales Tax (7%): $1807.92
NJ DMV Title fee: $60
NJ DMV Registration (plate transfer) fee: $24
TOTAL: $27,847.92
I made a very detailed buying experience if anyone's interested... (allthumbsdiy.com/misc-01-buying-a-car.html).
Good luck with your purchase!
I'm in Colorado too.
What dealer do you use?
Thanks!
Once I had a good price from the others I told Loveland and asked them to match it, they were within $150 so I thought that was OK. Greeley and of course Neuberger in Colorado Springs all show discounted prices on their web sites. Neuberger claims, and probably true that they are the volume leader in the state.
This is only the second new car I've ever had, wife's Lexus was first and I spent more than a bit of time looking at others before deciding on the Legacy.
Good luck.
easypar
The dealer in Ramsey, NJ had the color Outback I wanted and after weeks of email and phone negotiation, finally arrived at a price I was willing to pay; $28,500 with roof - only because he had it in stock, and it was the color I wanted. This was mid-December.
When I agreed to make the deal, the add on (dealer documentation) costs totaled up to close to $600 and when I questioned those, I was told, that's it - take it or leave it. According to NJDMV, doc costs were around $130. Needless to say, I did'nt take it.
Two weeks later, I broke down and on new years eve day, I callled the dealer to go and buy the car - with a bank check in hand. When I called and spoke to the supposed "sales manager", he says to me: "I'm not interested in selling you a car". I told him he was a good business man, a credit to his employer, and good luck.
Can you believe it?
I finally have a Vehicle Order Number (VON) and hope the new rate still applies when our car gets delivered - latest "estimate" from SNE is end Jan or early Feb.
Have you considered getting quotes (including all fees and taxes) from dealers via the internet - and then go in and purchase? My last 4 vehicles have all been purchased this way... I knew in advance, exactly what I was going to pay and all I had to do was review the numbers, sign the paperwork and then drive off.
It might be easier for you - then to physically go to dealerships.
The next few months with no government incentives to bring customers in will be pay back time for the dealers who played games with the public vs the ones that offered up front and honest deals.
Thats one of the values of this forum
What is the invoice price.
Get internet pricing for the model you want.
Does anyone have that specific model in stock or will it need to be ordered. Check the web sites yourself.
Get a firm quote of dealer out the door costs.
Negotiate price first - not payments. The 2.9 % is available if your credit rating is OK.
The dealer doesn't really want you to leave without your order, you want the best price, preparation on your part will let you get the best deal possible for your circumstances.
- Edmunds.com new car pricing
-Truecar.com
Several dealerships show online pricing - google Van Bortel, NY and build your car - their online system said they would sell a car "like" the one you are looking for which had a list of $25,790 MSRP including destination- for $24.038 + docs fees. DMV and state taxes.
The place where the dealers try to stick it to you is their documentation and other fees, find out ahead of time what they are and if they are controlled in your state - can vary from less than $200 to $695 - some dealers do more for you than others.
Only you know the detailed spec - search the invoice pricing and get actual internet pricing offers and then, only then sit down with the dealer.
Typically, you will get a better price for a new order, when dealers "find a car" its a like horse trading you pay for the convenience.
Some give a better price for cash deals others like financing because they get commission.
Finally when you buy the car the dealer will try to sell you all kinds of extras - high profit for him - high price for you - if you want extended warranties google them and search ebay you will be surprised!
Good luck
prices vary depending on small add ons (cargo nets, floor mats), but someone here once said they bough one for $25.5 (w moon roof) but don't know where, when, etc.
We just bought one at the end of December for 26k+tax+title (check my post here http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef17adf/2332#MSG2332)
Most Central NJ and Northern NJ dealers are not willing to deal under invoice.
I recommend the PA dealer I bought it from, Becker, but Liberty Subaru is a volume dealer so you may luck out there as well.
I strongly DO NOT RECOMMEND Morristown Subaru. I found them to be disingenuous (at best) during negotiations.
I am considering a used 2009 subaru limited and want to get your thought as to what would be the fair price for the following:
1 - Subaru 2009 Limited - 17K miles - current sticker price 25,500
2 - Subaru 2009 Limited - 24K miles - current sticker price 24,000
I believe that the invoice for a new 2009 subaru limited in the past was 27K. Having said that, I believe there were incentive in the past. I am not sure if this can be a factor in negotiation. Is it reasonable to offer 22K to begin?
Your thoughts and opinion would be greatly appreciated.