had forgotten to put the antenna on. He said that they were having problems with the antennas being stolen at night so they took them all off and was supposed to put them back when prepping vehicle. He also said that good help was hard to find.
Could you describe the door latch click? Does it occur on opening or closing or both?
I live in Monroe, La. I have been looking at both the GMC and Chevrolet Extra-cab 2 wheel drives. My dealers have told me that as of today November 12th, that the GMC 4 door will start build dates in January as soon as they are back from the Holidays and they should hit the lots the last week of Feb. My Chevrolet dealer said that he talked to the Chevy Corp. Big Wigs today and that they were suppost to get 14 of them next week BUT that they had a NOISE problem in the first ones that came off the line and that they were going to redo the design and start prodution in Jan. to hit lots the first week of March. The Chevy Dealer also told me that The Silverado 3-Door will not be made after December and that the new builds after the first of the year will ALL be 4- doors and it will not be an add-on. It will be standard. Now I have a question to the Y2K Silverado owners. Does anybody know if there is really that much difference in the 15 horespower gain in adding the 5.3 over the 4.8? I hate to pay $688.00 for only 15 more horses. If you have any feedback on this let me know here or at DavisCRT@aol.com. Thanks.
There is a topic called "4.8L vs 5.3L" or something to that effect. Based on what I've heard, the only advantage to the 4.8L is the price. The 5.3L is more powerful and gets about the same mileage. Nothing against the 4.8L, though. It's much better than it's predecessor (the 5.0L) and it's torque cure is more flat than the 5.3L (which is why there is only a 15 hp difference), but the power difference in low-end torque is substantially in favor of the 5.3L. You can see the torque/horspower curves at http://www.gmpowertrain.com
We have seen quite a few trucks where the window regulater bolts were not all tight. Which will cause a noise either when putting window up or down or driving with window part of the way down.
This has nothing to do with the door clicking when opening and closing it. If you have it shoot some grease at it.
the click occurs opening and closing, sometimes not at all, other times either opening or closing. all you need to do is take off the rubber latch gromet and shoot some grease back there, that is all the dealer did when he fixed mine.
I changed the oil on my 2000 LS Before the "change engine oil" light came on. I tried to reset the thing according to the manual. The manual says the if the system is reset that the " change engine oil" light should flash for 5 seconds, but nothing happens. Any ideas? Am I missing something here? Thanks, John
On the y2k Silverados the reset doesn't indicate it has been reset even though it has been. This is due to the software, I saw a bulletin posted at my dealer stating this.
Thanks Kanton, I read your earlier response after I sent out mine (Duh...). So, did the TSB mention if there is a SW update for this? I'm not sure that I believe my system really got reset without some kind of feedback.
Thanks Kanton, I read your earlier response after I sent out mine (Duh...). So, did the TSB mention if there is a SW update for this? I'm not sure that I believe my system really got reset without some kind of feedback.
I'm getting ready to purchase a new 2000 1500 LT Z71 (3 door)pickup and by chance found this web site with a lot of info that has me wandering if I'm making a good decision on purchasing a Chevrolet pickup truck. 30 grand for doors that click, windows that make excessive wind noise, vehicle vibration and a truck that may have significantly less resale value if it doesn't have four doors. Will the fourth door (and problems Chevy has had with it) be worth waiting for? Any pointers
Sorry, I forgot to state our Silverado is a 1500. Yep, 1500 ExtCab 2WD Long Bed. And yes they are rare. We placed our order 7/9/99 and was accepted on 7/12/99, however the production build date was 10/4/99. Dealer received 10/25/99 and we took delivery next day. I have been told the ExtCab with Long Bed was the reason for 17 weeks for delivery.
It sure was well worth the wait. Not only do we get 18.9mpg, but the ride. No one has believed the smoothness of the ride, it glides down the road. When you are in the vehicle with windows up it is virtually impossible to her the motor (5300).
It will take a long time for you to receive yours, if you ordered. Do not look for an ExtCab 1500 2WD Long Bed to be sitting on a lot. I doubt it will happen, unless someone ordered one and could not take delivery.
I had the door click but it went away! Maybe the grease worked its way in there.
Please clarify one point. People have said to grease the "latch" but the latch has nothing to do with the noise. The noise (in my truck anyway) comes from the detent device used to hold the door half or all the way open. The click occurs as the half position detent is passed. Now this has nothing to do with the latch that holds the door shut, in fact it is on the opposite, or hinge, side of the door. So when the dealer greased yours, where exactly did the grease go? Are we mixing terms here or talking about two different noises.
Don't be scared off by all the problems you read here. This forum is a magnet for complaints because those are the people most interested in sharing information. There is no doubt GM had their share of new model problems but notice that many people report no problems at all. For myself, I've had my truck 3 weeks and have no significant problems, nor have I been back to the dealer since I picked it up. It's great and I love it.
If you can wait for the 4th door I would definitely do it. The resale will be better and it will be nicer to live with.
Tim, thanks for the tip on the Skins. I checked the CoolWheels web site and they list the '98 long bed Skins at $175, shipping included. I e-mailed them about '99 and they have them for $198, shipping included I assume. So that's quite a savings over the other sources I've found. The second company listed has a bad e-mail address so I'll call them and get a quote just to check.
For you Silverado owners: does anyone know what would be the best alternative to create a 'trunk' in a '00 ext cab Silverado LT? My wife wants a vehicle with a trunk. I thought that a carpeted bed liner to look like a factory installed option would be the kicker. I would top it off with a color coordinated fiberglass bed top. As Goldilocks said, "Gee, Grandmother, what a big TRUNK you got there..." ---BTW, I will not use the truck for hauling - I have a work truck that gets the brawn done. This would be used as a 'car' - more or less.
Also, for you ladies who drive a Silverado: would you please explain to me why a woman would not want to drive a nice truck to work? My wife is a professional who has a staff of 70 that report to her. She contends that a European car is more in alignment with her responsibility. I reply that I cannot get her an Option 1 employee discount (retired brother) on anything other than GM vehicles.
My wife admitted that it is rather fun to go to a dealership and browse and have the salesmen to approach her. Before they can ask, she replies, "You're wasting your time. I'm buying with an Option 1." They immediately turn around and leave.
In the weekend edition of the Wall Street Journal, a report was published from the IHTSA that stated the top four spots for front and side impact safety (minimum to no injuries) were held by the Chevy/GM Suburbans and Chevy/GMC Tahoe/Yukons. The Silverado trucks were not evaluated yet, but the article said that a vehicle's weight creates a basic determination along with superior design (to avoid injury) as to how the scores are determined. Therefore, we may assume that this is one of the top safety protection vehicles on the highway. Kudos to the GM empire.
Well... good idea to check all important fluids every 6 months to a year. My silverado, with 11k miles, gets its engine oil checked every time I fill up, even though I only added oil once early on during breakin (~800 miles). If you whacked something while travelling off road, or you drove thru water deeper than 18", you might have contaminated or damaged part of the 4wd system, and checking the oil is a great indicator of problems. Oil check = 15 minutes of your time vs $1000+ if something went wrong and your ran one of the diffs dry until failure.
Oil change reset, after my software reflash, had similiar problems as you all have mentioned, but... If you wait after you do the 3 gas pedal whacks within 5 secs until the bat light goes off, you will see that the indicator is reset by it flashing, takes about 30s to 60s for it to finally display.
If you read some of the other topics, you will see that most other manufactures are having "flaws" with their new trucks. The Toyota Tundra is having a great deal of problems, their owners are pointing this out in topic 866 or something close to that. I would not worry about your new truck. I have had a couple of minor "flaws" with mine, but nothing is conserning. Besides that is what the warranty is for, if it is not right it will be fixed, if they can't get it right, you have other avenues to persue, buy back, lemon law, etc...
My wife likes driving my Silverado LT, although she prefers her regular car due to easier parking (smaller size).
My GUESS is that trucks are "supposed" to be for men due to their "tough" image. I suppose the Tundra might be considered a "girl" truck since Toyota can't make anything considered "tough" by any real standards. But women that are independant and self-assured don't worry about what car they are driving; a Silverado is perfect for them.
>She contends that a European car is more in >alignment with her responsibility.
Her responsibility is to drive crappy cars? What image is she hoping to project? That she knows less about cars than even those that think Lexus is more than some lousy Toyota with a $60,000 price tag?
My comment was that she wants a European car, making her know less than people who think a Lexus is anything more than a Toyota with a higher price tag. I never inferred that Lexus was European.
BTW: Turn off your caps. It's the e-mail equivilent of shouting.
I may have been verbose in stating that my wife's preference in vehicles would be of European origin. Many of the degreed employess that work for her drive M's, B's and V's with the Volvos being the most popular due to the safety aspects. The bottom line is: she doesn't put much thought into vehicles. She does not get excited about vehicles in the least. Her main emphasis for transportation is reliability and safety --- everything else is just aesthetics. I'm not saying that she is a Sam Walton imitation that drove a 13 year-old F150, but vehicles mean little in the scope of accountability and responsibility.
My passenger door had the "Squeak" click when the passenger door was opened. The problem is not the hinges but was the arm mechanisim that keeps the door from opening too wide. If you look at the door portion where the hinges are you will see this arm. It enters the door through a rubber shield. I removed the rubber shield (from the bottom of the rubber shield and pulled up). In there you will find two wheels that guide this arm. I applied a little WD40 on both wheels and the creak went away. I pushed the rubber shield back in place and was on my way.
I was changing oil on my 2000 3/4 this weekend and noticed a bar code sticker on the frame on both sides of the truck. It had the model number and the vin number also a date of 6/7/99. Does anyone know if this is the actual build date or the build date of the frame. I also have a drop ticket that was in the glove box that has a date of 6/15/99.
I have 96 Chevy 3/4, ext cab, short bed w/60,000 mi.My door "click" was more like a "clunk" and it originated as vince4 describes in post 379. The "clunk" started about two years after purchase. I asked my dealer to correct it during a maintenance visit. He said he would. He didn't. About a year or so ago I purchased a spray can of White Lithium Grease and sprayed a heavy coating on the door detent arm, spring, rollers and hinge pins. The door has not "clunked" since. Problem solved. I thought the White Lithium Grease would make a mess, but it didn't. Overall, have had few problems with the truck and plan to keep it another year or so. Now, if only I could eliminate the vibration in the coffee cup holder when it is holding a stainless coffee cup!
I had asked once before, but I got only one reply.
Do the 2000 Silverados have an internal antenna as opposed to a regular antenna on the 1999's? The salesman had told me that, but (obyone) said the antenna was just not screwed on to the stud (I think). I didn't pay that close of attention to look after being told that by the salesman.
Look on the passenger side of the truck, where the antenna would be on most cars, and if there is a stud there, you are missing an antenna. I suspect you are because my radio reception is quite good. I think it's good because it has better reception than the radio in my Taurus had...
I purchased an LT Extended cab about a month ago. It came with the same antenna that was on the base model - a wire antenna with an additional wire coiled along the outside. The whole thing was covered in a thick black paint. Mine looks something like a long skinny drill bit.
I think it mounts to the outside of the vehicle between the hood and the windshield on the edge near the passenger side. I'm not certain since I'm not driving my truck today.
I am looking at getting either a Snuglid or an A.R.E. LSII for my 2000 short bed. Does anyone out there have one and what do you like/dislike about it? I also heard Gaylord made a good lid, but can't find a local dealer in/near Orange County, CA.
Once and a while, and often at the same intersection, my door chime sounds when I have the right turn signal on. Has anybody dealt with this, or is my truck haunted?
I have a 2000 Silverado LT 4WD X/C 4-dr. on order. My friend bought a '99 F-150 S/C 4-dr. & let me tell you, if you have kids or use the rear for stuff you will be thankful to have the extra door.
The fourth door will give you easy access, not to mention down the road with resale.
Order the E24 fourth door option. You won't reget it.
from the aftermarket shop. They installed a new Rancho 4" suspension system, along with new wheels and tires; boy does it look and drive good. It possibly? drives smoother than it did in stock z-71 trim; probably due to the much better RS9000 adjustable shocks. Don't know yet I haven't had enough time to drive it.
I don't have the signal on for more than 100 feet, as I exit off of the freeway, make a right, then a right shortly thereafter. Of course, my signal is on as I exit the freeway and then for each of the two right turns. Even though the signal is on, then off, then on, then off, then on, perhaps a sensor (or whatever it is) is tripped acting as if the signal was on continuously? I guess that it's worth experimenting with. Thanks for the feedback.
I have gone into detail previously about the Toyota and Lexus models I have driven. I have not driven a Tundra as mentioned previously. I have driven every series of LS and ES 300 and 400 (my father in law buys them) and took a long drive in a GS 300 through a partially mountain area.
None of them does anything particularly wrong, but they don't do anything particularily right either. They are no quieter than other luxury cars, my head hits the ceiling even though I am only 6' tall and the seats are all the way down, the performance is exceedingly marginal, they require premium gas, mileage is crappy compared to the competition, the trunks are very small, as are the interiors for the size of the outside. Yhe only nice thing is the way the dash lights up, which is more than compensated by the lame stereo.
The turning circle of the Camry-based LX300 is larger than a Surburban.
I have not driven the Tundra, since I know no one dumb enough to buy one and the back seat is the most uncomfortable I have ever sat in. I don't like Toyota's "reliablility" which is FAR more perception than reality, I don't like super-thin sheet metal on a truck, and I laugh whenever I think of people buying a "tough" truck that has a bed that cannot even sit on the frame because of a design problem: How do you get a mid-sized truck to hold a 4' plywood sheet between the wheel wells?
My guess is that I have driven more Toyotas and Lexus cars than you have even sat in. And of course you know that in Japan and the rest of the world, Lexus is marketed as Toyota (the same people who used to pay big bucks for a crappy Mercedes now pay big bucks for a Toyota ... it's all marketing, the one thing Toyota does very well).
I remember when I was a kid in the early 70's I saw this pack of toy cars that I had to have. Mom said I didn't want that junk. Talked her into buying them anyhow. They were little cheap metal cars, about twice the size of a hot wheels car. Made in Japan. They were litteraly stamped out of old soft drink cans. You could see the old Logo's of the drink company on the underside of the cars!
As for the Tundra, It seems old manufacturing processes do die hard!
And, yes, I have driven a Tundra. It was a bad ozone day in Atlanta. Must have been a little light headed!
No factual error. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough, or you don't know how the Tundra is built. I said:
>I laugh whenever I >think of people buying a "tough" truck that has a >bed that cannot even sit on the frame because of a >design problem: How do you get a mid-sized truck >to hold a 4' plywood sheet between the wheel >wells?
The key word phrase is "cannot even sit on the frame because..." I was NOT saying that the Tundra could not hold it. I was saying that Toyota "did it" (solved the problem) by essentially taking a midsized truck and lifting the bed off the frame so that they could make the space between the wheel wells wider so that the plywood would fit. In other words, there was a design problem that Toyota solved by Mickey Mousing the bed onto the frame with spacers.
And if that ISN'T the reason (I am not a Toy engineer and am relying on information previously stated on this board), why else does Toyota produce an inherently weaker design for their truck bed mounting? Is this just another example of bad Toyota engineering?
Comments
Could you describe the door latch click? Does it occur on opening or closing or both?
I have just been reading about the door clicking above. Sounds like when door is opened and closed.
Thanks
- Tim
the same mileage. Nothing against the 4.8L, though. It's much better than it's predecessor (the 5.0L) and it's torque cure is more flat than the 5.3L (which is why there is only a 15 hp difference), but the power difference in low-end torque is substantially in favor of the 5.3L. You can see the torque/horspower curves at
http://www.gmpowertrain.com
-powerisfun
This has nothing to do with the door clicking when opening and closing it. If you have it shoot some grease at it.
I read your earlier response after I sent out mine (Duh...). So, did the TSB mention if there is a SW update for this? I'm not sure that I believe my system really got reset without some kind of feedback.
I read your earlier response after I sent out mine (Duh...). So, did the TSB mention if there is a SW update for this? I'm not sure that I believe my system really got reset without some kind of feedback.
It sure was well worth the wait. Not only do we get 18.9mpg, but the ride. No one has believed the smoothness of the ride, it glides down the road. When you are in the vehicle with windows up it is virtually impossible to her the motor (5300).
It will take a long time for you to receive yours, if you ordered. Do not look for an ExtCab 1500 2WD Long Bed to be sitting on a lot. I doubt it will happen, unless someone ordered one and could not take delivery.
Please clarify one point. People have said to grease the "latch" but the latch has nothing to do with the noise. The noise (in my truck anyway) comes from the detent device used to hold the door half or all the way open. The click occurs as the half position detent is passed. Now this has nothing to do with the latch that holds the door shut, in fact it is on the opposite, or hinge, side of the door. So when the dealer greased yours, where exactly did the grease go? Are we mixing terms here or talking about two different noises.
If you can wait for the 4th door I would definitely do it. The resale will be better and it will be nicer to live with.
GM says to check the front & rear differential fluid level every 7500 miles. Why? If you don't have a leak then why check??
Richard
Also, for you ladies who drive a Silverado: would you please explain to me why a woman would not want to drive a nice truck to work? My wife is a professional who has a staff of 70 that report to her. She contends that a European car is more in alignment with her responsibility. I reply that I cannot get her an Option 1 employee discount (retired brother) on anything other than GM vehicles.
My wife admitted that it is rather fun to go to a dealership and browse and have the salesmen to approach her. Before they can ask, she replies, "You're wasting your time. I'm buying with an Option 1." They immediately turn around and leave.
Oil change reset, after my software reflash, had similiar problems as you all have mentioned, but...
If you wait after you do the 3 gas pedal whacks within 5 secs until the bat light goes off, you will see that the indicator is reset by it flashing, takes about 30s to 60s for it to finally display.
My GUESS is that trucks are "supposed" to be for men due to their "tough" image. I suppose the Tundra might be considered a "girl" truck since Toyota can't make anything considered "tough" by any real standards. But women that are independant and self-assured don't worry about what car they are driving; a Silverado is perfect for them.
>She contends that a European car is more in
>alignment with her responsibility.
Her responsibility is to drive crappy cars? What image is she hoping to project? That she knows less about cars than even those that think Lexus is more than some lousy Toyota with a $60,000 price tag?
Richard
(I'll stop being sarcastic now)
BTW: Turn off your caps. It's the e-mail equivilent of shouting.
Richard
Overall, have had few problems with the truck and plan to keep it another year or so.
Now, if only I could eliminate the vibration in the coffee cup holder when it is holding a stainless coffee cup!
Do the 2000 Silverados have an internal antenna
as opposed to a regular antenna on the 1999's? The salesman had told me that, but (obyone) said the antenna was just not screwed on to the stud (I think). I didn't pay that close of attention to look after being told that by the salesman.
Does anyone know if this is true?
I am just wondering about poor radio reception.
Thanks!!!
I was just asking a question that came to mind since I looked at the dealer.
(rlangford2) do you have a 2000?
Thanks!
I think it mounts to the outside of the vehicle between the hood and the windshield on the edge near the passenger side. I'm not certain since I'm not driving my truck today.
Thanks
I can't imagine you would make those statements in ignorance. Which Tundra and Lexus models have you driven?
My friend bought a '99 F-150 S/C 4-dr. & let me tell you, if you have kids or use the rear for stuff you will be thankful to have the extra door.
The fourth door will give you easy access, not to mention down the road with resale.
Order the E24 fourth door option. You won't reget it.
My 2000 LT has the antenna on the outside.
None of them does anything particularly wrong, but they don't do anything particularily right either. They are no quieter than other luxury cars, my head hits the ceiling even though I am only 6' tall and the seats are all the way down, the performance is exceedingly marginal, they require premium gas, mileage is crappy compared to the competition, the trunks are very small, as are the interiors for the size of the outside. Yhe only nice thing is the way the dash lights up, which is more than compensated by the lame stereo.
The turning circle of the Camry-based LX300 is larger than a Surburban.
I have not driven the Tundra, since I know no one dumb enough to buy one and the back seat is the most uncomfortable I have ever sat in. I don't like Toyota's "reliablility" which is FAR more perception than reality, I don't like super-thin sheet metal on a truck, and I laugh whenever I think of people buying a "tough" truck that has a bed that cannot even sit on the frame because of a design problem: How do you get a mid-sized truck to hold a 4' plywood sheet between the wheel wells?
My guess is that I have driven more Toyotas and Lexus cars than you have even sat in. And of course you know that in Japan and the rest of the world, Lexus is marketed as Toyota (the same people who used to pay big bucks for a crappy Mercedes now pay big bucks for a Toyota ... it's all marketing, the one thing Toyota does very well).
Next question?
Richard
As for the Tundra, It seems old manufacturing processes do die hard!
And, yes, I have driven a Tundra. It was a bad ozone day in Atlanta. Must have been a little light headed!
Bryan
>I laugh whenever I
>think of people buying a "tough" truck that has a
>bed that cannot even sit on the frame because of a
>design problem: How do you get a mid-sized truck
>to hold a 4' plywood sheet between the wheel
>wells?
The key word phrase is "cannot even sit on the frame because..." I was NOT saying that the Tundra could not hold it. I was saying that Toyota "did it" (solved the problem) by essentially taking a midsized truck and lifting the bed off the frame so that they could make the space between the wheel wells wider so that the plywood would fit. In other words, there was a design problem that Toyota solved by Mickey Mousing the bed onto the frame with spacers.
And if that ISN'T the reason (I am not a Toy engineer and am relying on information previously stated on this board), why else does Toyota produce an inherently weaker design for their truck bed mounting? Is this just another example of bad Toyota engineering?
Richard