Mazda B Series

xena1a · May 2000

Any decisions on your next truck purchase? I know that you were researching other possibilities...
There is a lady at work that is dying to buy my B3000 4WD. I'll hang onto it for the time being. But I will take a close look at the Ranger or another B-Series when that 4.0L SOHC is finally available. I'm anxious to test drive it...

xena1a · May 2000

Thanks for the input on the 2001 B-Series. It sounds promising that they will not completely revamp the current styling. Like I mentioned previously, I think they are already nice looking trucks...

tacoma_trd · May 2000

Well I was looking at my options on different trucks but I also think I will wait until the 4.0L SOHC will come out, I can't wait to test drive it.

tacoma_trd · May 2000

I cannot remember who but I have seen somebody's post saying something about a more efficient engine when they changed to Mobile Synthetic for their oil. I am due for an oil change and I might try it out. I was just wondering any feedback on certain oils that either help gas mileage or engine efficiency. Thanks.

xena1a · May 2000

Yes, that would be me. I ran Pennzoil in my '99 B3000 for the first 10K miles. Then I switched over to Mobil1 Synthetic (10w-30). Out of all the modifications I have done to the truck (added a KKM True Rev induction kit and recently a catback exhaust), I would have to say that switching to the synthetic oil produced the best results. The engine runs a bit smoother and seems to produce a few less RPMs for a given gear/speed combination. I guess these fewer RPMs all add up because I also have seen a solid 1.0 MPG increase. The truck is now getting a consistent 21.x MPG in all purpose driving around the Tucson area. My last tank netted 21.5 MPG. Not bad for a 4WD vehicle. I would recommend giving it a try. Keep in mind that if you have it serviced, it is more expensive. But part of the cost can be offset with fewer oil changes. I have heard that it is perfectly safe to extend the mileage out to 4K between changes with the synthetic. That works out to 3 changes per year as opposed to 4 with the standard oil. Just my .02 cents...

tone2tone · May 2000

This is for those that might be looking at either a used model similar to this or thinking of purchasing a new Mazda.

I have 62K on the truck. Fit and finish is still good, even with it parked outside all the time.

Extra cab is very handy and the jump seats are great for use in a pinch but admittedly I'm not comfortable having the kids back there.

5 spd tranny is fine but the 4 cylinder doesn't cut it. Maybe the weight of the truck is too much for it and hopefully the B2500's are a whole lot better. Unloaded it drives okay on the freeways etc but moderate hills, wind, etc. means that there is no passing etc. and the need for keeping my eyes on the rear view mirrors. I would strongly recommend the 4 litre V-6.

Only electrical problem is the "Check Engine Light" that stays on. Had a sensor replaced at 40k and a bolt from the front caliper came off at 35k.

Aside from fluid changes, it has been a very reliable vehicle and handy for the lil' chores around the house.

tacoma_trd · May 2000

Thanks for the info. I might give it a try.

drewerm1 · May 2000

I have a B 3000 that has 10,000 miles on it, and was surprised when I took it in for the 6,000 mile oil & lube and the dealer recommended cleaning the fuel injectors with a flush. Their could have been some other little checks with the total being somewhere around 50 dollars over a typical oil and lube job. Question: do these little extras help performance and longevity of the truck or just nice add ons for the dealers garage. I assume if you stick what is in the manual you should be ok.

tone2tone · May 2000

Environmental factors (i.e. dust, temp. etc) need to be factored but following the recommended schedule in the manual should suffice. Oil changes and filters can be done more frequently if you like. Periodically, I will fill the tank with premium. Doing the injectors at 6k means needing to look for another garage. Case in point, I took our Expedition in for an alignment at 27k and the tire center was recommending my putting in new shocks to replace the "crummy" originals. Only when I mentioned that the vehicle was still under warranty and that I'll share that concern when I take it into Ford did the pressure to replace them cool. I won't be returning to that tire center for anything other than the cheapest price on tires but no additional work. That is one of the reasons I miss the Fedco auto service centers. You didn't get the pressure to purchase services that were not needed.

mpruitt · May 2000

I see a few comments indicating the addition of a K&N "filter charger" kit. Is this different from a K&N air filter (that fits into the standard box)? If not, can someone tell me what this involves and how much it costs? thanks

xena1a · May 2000

Yes, "filter charger" or "induction" kits are different than the various replacement filters that fit into your air box. In fact, these kits actually replace the air box itself. They are simple to install and all of the sensors remain in place. They cost approx $100 and require cleaning every 20K-30K miles. I've got a KKM True Rev induction kit on my '99 B3000. I like it. It seems to help the engine breath easier. It even sounds different. Some claim that it helps their MPG. I didn't notice an MPG difference after I installed mine. Check out this link for more info on the KKM:

www.kustomz.com

These induction kits also fit B-Series trucks and are available for 4 and 6 bangers...

heidigreenlaw · May 2000

My husband owns a 94 Mazda B300 with 117,000 trouble-free miles (and I mean COMPLETELY trouble-free other than routine oil, tire and brake changes). We just had new brakes put on - the whole job, rotors, pads, etc. - we brought it in because the ABS and brake lights were on. Well, brakes are now fixed and working fine, but the shop can't get the lights on the dash to go off. They tell us the truck needs to be hooked up to a "scope" and only a Mazda dealer can do this - at the cost of about $75.00. If the problem is, say a censor with the ABS - we're looking at a $300 bill - or there about - to fix it.

Any idea why we can't get the lights on the dash to go off? Do you really think we should take it to the dealer and spend the money to get the problem (assuming it's minor) fixed or should we just let the lights stay on (will that hurt the truck?). Even the garage was clueless as to why the lights are still on. Your comments and suggests are welcome! Thanks

xena1a · May 2000

I had a problem similar to this in my previous truck ('90 Chevy 1/2 ton). The ABS/brake light was on solid for no apparent reason. I took it to the dealer twice ($100 a pop). Both times, they ran diagnostics and could not find any trouble. They reset the sensor and the light would be off for a little while, then mysteriously come back on. They never did get the problem resolved. But the brakes seemed to work fine, so I eventually got one of those simley face stickers and put it over the ABS/brake light because I got tired of looking at the darn thing. I don't know if this was the smartest thing to do, but I got tired of paying good money only to get a "no trouble found" response. I suspect it was just a sensitive or flakey sensor. Leaving it in that state did not seem to cause any trouble. Can't tell what to do here. But if it were my truck, and I was POSITIVE that the brakes were working properly, I might opt for the smiley face. They're much cheaper than those dealer prices...

sushi · June 2000

Does anyone have a site that I can visit that will tell me about upgrades that I can do (Engine and performance-wise) to my '97 B4000 4x2? Stuff like Chips, how to install them, supercharging, exhuast, bolt ons and stuff? Yes it is I. The king of the information on the B4000. I am back, after losing my password.

xena1a · June 2000

Sushi -

Welcome back. It has been almost a year, hasn't it? Try the following link for some mods to your B4000: www.kustomz.com
Most of the Ford Ranger upgrades will also work on the Mazda's. I would recommend the KKM Tru Rev Induction Kit. It replaces your stock air box. It is easy to install and all sensors remain in place. This site also offers Superchips and Dynomax Turbo Mufflers. Good luck with your upgrades...

sushi · June 2000

Thanks. I am looknig for some easy upgrades first.

danny25 · June 2000

This site has some good info on the new B-Series trucks, and some pictures of the "freshend" look. The B2300 gets a new 134 hp 4 banger. And of course the B4000 is getting the SOHC 4.0L that the Ranger is getting.
http://www.pickuptruck.com/html/newyork/mazda/bseries.html

dannyg · June 2000

Thanks for the link! This is the first link I've seen that lists a HP rating for the new 2.3L 4cyl to be used in both Ranger and B Series. This is an OHC engine versus the old OHV 2.5L 4cyl. I'm not sure if it is all-new or just a bored-out version of the 2.0L 4cyl used in the Mazda 626 and Ford Contour.

I've got an old 2.8L Ranger that I'd like to trade in this fall. I'm considering a 4cyl Ranger or B-Series for better MPG. The new 4cyl should be a nice improvement.

xena1a · June 2000

Thanks for the link. Us B-Series guys have been wondering what the 2001's look like. Thanks...

danny25 · June 2000

I've always liked the new B-Series, but I was still planning on getting a new Ranger Edge. But now that Mazda will have a similar 4x2 truck with a 4x4 ride hight I think I'm going to add another truck to my list to test drive.

tacoma_trd · June 2000

i believe u have the 3.0L right, have u ever driven the 2.5L,I have the 2.5L I was just curious to see how much of a difference it was, the 3.0L is a small V6 and i was just wondering if it is worth getting and saving the money from buying a 4.0L, I like the 2001 B-Series, but I kinda wish they would have kept the chrome piece around the windows, but I really like the 2001 Troy Lee, and that is why I would consider the 3.0L, maybe I need to change my name

xena1a · June 2000

I agree with you about the window trim. I think they should have left it on the 2001's...
No, I haven't ever driven the 2.5L engine. I did own an '85 Ranger with a 2.0L. It was pretty slow. I would recommend that you give the 3.0L a test drive. It is a decent engine. I have driven mine hard for the last year with no trouble. I wouldn't describe it as fast, but it is adequate when mated with the manual tranny. And it gets pretty good mileage with a light foot. My B3000 4WD gets a solid 21MPG all purpose and 23MPG hiway. Not bad. The 2WD version should get even better. I'm glad to see that you are considering staying with the Mazda product. They are well-built and a decent value...
One reason I decided on the 3.0L was the fact that the Power Package (windows, doors, rear view mirrors) was not standard. With the 4.0L it was standard. So, I chose the smaller engine for better MPG and I saved some money by not getting the options I did not want. I'm not sure if holds true for the Troy Lee version or not...
Anyway, give the 3.0L a test drive. You can do this right now. You don't have to wait for the 2001's...
P.S. - One word of caution about the 3.0L. Some of these engines can develop pinging. Mine started it during uphill acceleration at 4500mi. I have been running 89 octane ever since with no problems...

tacoma_trd · June 2000

thanks for the info, I'll have to give the 3.0L a test drive on a free day I have, I have a pinging with my 2.5L right now, I am running 87 octane but I will probably fill up tomorrow and I will try the 89 octane and see if that makes a difference.

If you are getting 21+ mpg on you 4x4 thats really good, on an average day for me, my 2.5L gets 21 mpg.

If I would get a Troy Lee, I would get the 3.0L because I would not want the power package either, and I do not need a 4x4 which the 4.0L Troy Lee is. I would also definitely get the Manual tranny no matter what I would get.

tacoma_trd · June 2000

I wasnt suppose to hit enter, sorry.

I saw in a post that someone said all the 3.0L are 150 hp in the B-Series and have 190 lbs torque. In the brochure it lists as 143/180, I was wondering if you knew exactly what your specs were. The ranger brochure lists 150/190.

Just wondering, thanks.

sushi · June 2000

It's 150/190 for the B3000. B3000 is a big diff from the B2500 You get more guts. Actaully, a lot more guts at low rpms. But the B4000 blows them both out of the water. The new 2001 engine should be good too. But the old 4.0 spools up faster than the new 4.0. But 4.0 eats gas.

xena1a · June 2000

I've heard that the standard fuel 3.0L is rated as 143/180. And the Flexible Fuel 3.0L is rated as the 150/190. My B3000 is the Flexible Fuel 3.0L. I have not tried running the alternative fuel to date...

xena1a · June 2000

Need an opinion. Last week, I purchased the Superchips Module for the 3.0L engine. With the package came a statement that the Superchips Module might not work on some 3.0L engines because of a circuit board wiring change by the manufacturer. Well, I've apparantly got one of these boards in my 3.0L. The engine will not start when the Superchips Module is installed. Superchips says that they will modify the board, free of charge. Turn around time is about 3 or 4 days. I will have to mail the board and the module to Superchips for the alteration. They guarantee the work. What to do? Should I send my computer board in to be modified, or just forget the whole thing and get a refund? I'm open for suggestions. Thanks...

scape2 · June 2000

If you truck is still under warranty get a refund. Wait until it goes out of warranty and then buy the chip....

tacoma_trd · June 2000

I'll agree with vince on that one

about the 3.0L in the the B-Series brochure it is listed as the flexible fuel but 143/150 I believe its 150/190 though.

xena1a · June 2000

Thanks guys. That suggestion makes sense. I'll wait on having the board modified...

xena1a · June 2000

I should have said in the above entry that I will have the board modified IF I still own the B3000 after the warranty expires. I will be taking a serious look at the 2001 Rangers and B-Series with the SOHC 4.0L!!!

xena1a · June 2000

Had a chance to test drive the 3.0L? Just wondering...

tacoma_trd · June 2000

No I haven't. I have been so busy lately with working and I have a personal golf coach that I meet with every day. So one day

guynorde · June 2000

Hi, '98 Mazda B4000 owner who queered about paint problems a while back. One other problem we have been having periodically over the past year/year and a half is with oil consumption. It seems to happen most often when doing longer hiway trips, but does happen occationally with town driving. It has been down more than two liters (quarts) at times. We have mentioned it to our service provider, who assures us there is no sign of leaks or burning. On one trip last year, we put four liters in on a 2500 kilometer trip (about 1700 miles). Has anyone else with a similar year, 4000 series truck experienced the same problems? Haven't seen any references to it.

scape2 · June 2000

I have a Ford Ranger with a 4.0 same year as your Mazda. I have never burned any oil and now have about 30K on the truck. Have you noticed any leaks? oil in radiator fluid? Have you taken it into the dealer? This is a sign something is wrong. Take it in asap before your warranty is up.

mtl3 · June 2000

I agree with vince8, I have a 97 B4000 and it's never used a drop of oil.

Get after the dealer.

xena1a · June 2000

Things have been pretty quiet around here. Getting ready for my annual trip from AZ to CO for some off-road fun. I'll be gone for two weeks of R and R! I'll post MPG numbers for the B3000 when I get back.

tacoma_trd - take the 3.0L out for a test drive!!!

matt98 · July 2000

In response to xena1a's question (#258)

I have a '98 B2500 that doing the exact same thing that xena1a described. I was wondering if you ever found out what the problem was, and if so, how to fix it?

matt98 · July 2000

That last response should have been directed to tacoma_trd not xena1a. Sorry.

tacoma_trd · July 2000

no I have never found what the problem was, but it seems to do it worse on hot days and when I run the air conditioner on high. so the answer is no, and I dont know how to fix it, sorry.

dizzy2 · July 2000

I sold my 2200 and will hopefully get a B2600i '92 model with extended cab for $4800. Is there anything negative known about this model? This is a 2WD with 89k on it. I am trying to save up money for a down payment on a house, but I MUST have a truck!! How could I live without a truck??? I am trying to get a used low problem model that has a good reputation for running like a Timex watch.

leif3 · July 2000

Hi there,

Could anyone enlighten me as to the differences
between the B4000 and Ranger? From what I've seen
the B4000 has higher reliability ratings but
folks tell me they are identical trucks.

Can anyone resolve why this would be?

tacoma_trd · July 2000

They are identical trucks, except for the front grill and the rims, thats pretty much the only differences

tacoma_trd · July 2000

Ford owns Mazda

scape2 · July 2000

Don't forget the big one, Mazda has a longer warranty than Ford on its truck line. As far as mechanicals, both the same. I believe its just a personal preference on styling that you may prefer....

xena1a · July 2000

Just returned from my annual AZ to CO road trip. My B3000 4WD did pretty good. Got right at 22MPG for the hi-way portion of my trip. Not bad with the AC blasting nearly full time. Took it off road for some 4WD fun and it did fine. Went over Medano, Hayden, and Hermit Passes. The latter of which topped out at 13,020ft. No problems to report. 3,000 miles round trip. Can't wait until next summer!!!

mb112 · July 2000

I have a 99 B3000 extended cab 4wd with the auto trans. Lately the transmission has developed a bad habit of giving 1-3 jerks when starting from a stop and also right as it comes to a stop. The dealer couldn't feel the jerks even though everyone that rides with me tells me I have problems even when I don't ask them about it. Does anyone else have this problem and know what it is? Also, I can only manage 17mpg on a good day even with highway and conservative driving. is this normal and does anyone have a tip on how to increase mileage?

wenreder · July 2000

I require a "second" vehicle for hauling objects that can't fit in my Acura, as well as being a very good Winter traction vehicle. As an ex-mechanic, I was fortunate enough to always have big American "classic" station wagons as my 2nd car for the past 20+ years, plenty of room, so-so in Winter. I've decided to buy a NEW 4-WHEEL DRIVE PICK-UP TRUCK. Started looking last week at MAZDA B3000 SE Cab Plus 4 --and-- Nissan Frontier XE-V6 King Cab. Nissan looks and handles a bit "better" all around, but Mazda is offering 2.9% finance (Connecticut) and I really like the Med. Willow Green Metallic color (perhaps NOT the smartest way to make a decision).
>> NOW I "hear" talk of vast improvements for 2001 << I'm very "limited" with $$$$, but I DON'T want to skimp and purchase foolishly either. PLEASE GIVE ALL COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS to assist me in making the "right" purchase. Should I wait until 2001? Is the 2000 Mazda "better" or "not as good" as the Nissan ?? Thanks for your help !!

xena1a · July 2000

I think both the Mazda/Ranger and the Frontier provide viable alternatives to the overpriced, but excellent, Tacoma. Both of these trucks score very high in the "value" department. I cannot tell you very much about the Frontier because I did not take a close look at it when I was in the market for a new compact truck. I just couldn't get past what I consider to be the Frontier's frumpy styling (just MHO). However, Frontier owner's seem to love their trucks. They score high in the reliability factor. The Nissan also has a slightly stronger V6 than the 3.0L offering for the B3000. Let me tell you what I do know about the B-Series. I own a '99 B3000 4WD with a manual tranny and the 4-door extended cab. In the last 12mo, I have driven 17000mi and have been very satisfied with it. I average 20.x MPG all-purpose driving and on a recent road trip to Colorado, the truck got right at 22 MPG. Not bad for a 4WD with 30" BFG All Terrains. I run the darn thing hard, both on the hiway and offroad, and have not had any problems to date. As a commuter, or around town, or offroad, the 3.0L is adequate. Where it can be a bit lacking is during fast, open road driving. There is no power reserve at low RPM's. However, if you keep the rev's up (3000-3500), then it zips along pretty good. They're nice looking, have decent interiors, and the 4-door option is very convenient. You should be able to get a great deal on mid-summer or year-end clearances.
The main changes to the 2001 B-Series/Rangers are the addition of the SOHC 4.0L V6 engine from the Explorer (as well as a new 4 cyl). Also 4 wheel ABS becomes standard. I have also heard that an additional 4th leaf spring will be included for the rear suspension (not sure about that one). Other than that, aside from the few cosmetic changes, the 2000's and 2001's are pretty much the same. Drive 'em both again. Like I said before, I think they are both decent alternatives to the Tacoma. Good luck...

xena1a · July 2000

Can't answer your jerky auto transmission problem. You might want to post the question over in the Ford Ranger III topic. The folks over there are usually pretty helpful...

Mazda B Series

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