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I do NOT have a turbo XC 90..........
Still have a few days to decide if I should spend $1800 for an extended 3 yr/75k warranty - currently have 45k on the car, and have not had any major problems. So far I am hearing to definitely purchase one if I have a T6, but I don't!
You will have to decide whether it is worth it to you to pay the $1800 for an extended warranty. We declined any extended warranties on both our 2004 V70 2.4L non-turbo and our 2007 XC90 3.2L FWD (also not turbocharged), but that is our bias. I do have good health insurance, but I cannot bear to think my vehicle is so costly to repair that I need to insure against the cost of repairs.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any thoughts?
Jeanne
Remember, this vehicle is not even five months old and has already spent a total of 16 days in the shop, and counting. I am from Florida, and yes, I have contacted the State Attorney General's office already.
I'll let you know what Volvo/VCNA will do to my request of replacing this evidently defective product of theirs.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------
Picked up my XC90 3.2 FWD last week with 9 miles on it. Exactly one week later (today), it has 485 miles, and a message warning: "LOW OIL LEVEL" and the red triangle sign is lit. Checked the oil, barely made it to the dip stick bottom. It blows white/bluish smoke upon starting, but goes away after a little bit. Also blows bluish/wite smoke when accelerating. No visible leaks in the engine compartment and underbody. The car is currently being driven normally mostly in city driving. Where did the oil go? Is this normal for a 7-day old car? I know engines consume oil, but this is a brand new car with less than 500 miles on it. Thanks in advance for your insights.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Regards,
Beer<a href="http://www.madoe.nl/volvoxc90/Albums/Album1/Source/IMG_4804.htm
A used remote cannot be re-programmed.
Also, the dealer cannot cut the key.
Key has to come from Volvo Cars.
Thanks,
KY Volvo owner
it does seem like you have a wheel problem. Whether or not you can get it covered is the tough part. I would be emphatic. Call corporate if need be. Explain that the car has obviously never been in an accident. The wheels are visibly undamaged, supporting your "no accidents" claim. So the only conclusion is that they must have come defective from the factory. See if the shop can "prove" this somehow and get you free replacements.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
It will be very hard to convince Volvo Cars that this is a defect.
"Thoroughly cleaning the buildup of corrosion from the bead area on the rim is an important step whenever a tire is dismounted or mounted on an alloy rim. In addition, tire shops can apply a special sealer to the rim area to help seal the tire bead and prevent future air leaks." Link.
"I just had the same problem and I finally found a mechanic who fixed it by sanding the seats with 180 grit sandpaper until good clean aluminum is visible."Link.
But this source suggests that just sanding would be a very bad idea.
"Aggressive cleaning can trigger air leaks in alloy rims
When the air leak can be pinpointed to the bead area, the bead should be cleaned gently with a non-paint-removing solvent, the tire mounted and a quality bead sealer used. This should resolve any issues of leaks around the bead.
If the bead area has been cleaned so aggressively that the clearcoat is removed, the tire will leak at the bead. I've seen shops use a grinding wheel on the inside of a bead, then remount the tire with all the clearcoat gone.
After that kind of a cleanup, the inside of the bead area should be repainted. It doesn't have to be clearcoated; I fancy a nice neon colour myself.
The paint reseals the alloy and when it has dried and hardened, the tire can be mounted with bead sealer.
Wheel weights should not cause corrosion. The shop in question used incorrect weights: alloy wheels require plastic-coated weights that can't react with the alloy.
The corroded areas should be cleaned and sealer applied. If there are too many spots of corrosion around the bead and weights, you may have to have the wheel totally refinished.
Cost is about $125 a wheel. Or you could simply buy steel wheels for around $80 each. "
Link.
"The 2.5T was the entry level version and offered a 2.5L 20 valve turbocharged inline 5 engine putting out 205hp and 236 lb-ft mated to an Aisin co-developed AW55-50/51 5 speed automatic. The T6 offered a 2.9L 24 valve twin turbocharged inline 6 with 268hp and 280lb-ft mated to a GM-sourced, Volvo modified 4T65EV/GT 4 speed automatic."
I have a 2004 2.5T AWD with 55k miles on it. I have not had any problems until last week when the electrical system went crazy similar to some others here. Unfortunately nobody seems to have found a common solution, and neither has my dealer since after 'fixing' it, it did it again this weekend and was towed back this morning. So it appears that I don't have the tranny issues like the T6, but perhaps wheel bearings and some of the other issues on this forum. However, everyone should remember that all car forums like this bring in the folks with the problems, so caution should be exercised before making any decisions (like the one I'm facing...).
Like many others I am not interested in a car that is not dependable after the warranty is up. I was a bit concerned with buying a Volvo since dependability is always a requirement.I like not having a car payment but perhaps a lease will be required going forward for the wife/family car...
Perhaps the 2.5T owners should start their own thread to distinguish from the T6 flaws...
However, as I believe the engine and tranny are the only major differences between the 2 models, I think this place is fine for all to co-exist. There is a thread dedicated to just the T6 tranny. I believe that should suffice. Just my opinion, of course.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I really appreciate the help!
About 2 mpg better than the V8.
On the highway my wife's 2007 XC90 3.2 I6 FWD gets as much as 26 mpg. I would bet that the I6 will get as much as 4 mpg better than the V8. The 3.2L I6 is a brand new engine design.
I think the V8 and the I6 have the same 6-speed auto tranny made by Aisin in Japan. I think this is the AWTF-80 SC, but I wish Volvomax would confirm on this.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC.
AWTF-80 SC
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The Aisin AWTF-80 SC is a 6 speed automatic transmission designed for use in transverse engine applications. It is designed to handle a maximum of 440 N·m (324.5 ft·lbf) of torque. It is built in Anjo, Japan. It is also called the TF80-SC, AF40-6, AM6 and AW6A-EL.
The design team set out to create a 6 speed automatic that fits in the same space as a manual gearbox. It measures 358 mm (14.1 in) in length and weighs 90 kg (198 lb). Its combined use of a conventional 5-pinion planetary gearset and a compound Ravignaux gearset makes it incredibly light and compact. This combination is known as a Lepelletier arrangement. The shifting of gears is managed by a sophisticated computer programme which over-sees a clutch-to-clutch actuation. Gear changes are accomplished by one clutch engaging the instant the clutch from the previous gear disengages. The transmission control module (TCM) is located inside the transmission housing, instead of being located outside it. The advantage of this is to reduce external wiring as well as to provide a constant environment for TCM operation which encourages longevity. One aspect of the advanced nature of the electronics is at idle, it automatically selects neutral gear to reduce internal temperatures and improves fuel economy.
It utilises a special AW-1 transmission fluid which is labelled as being maintenance free. It has a fluid capacity of 8.0L (8.45qt).
All wheel drive transfer cases can be fitted to the AWTF-80 SC, making it ideal for use in cross-over type SUVs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_SI6_engine
http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20050614/FREE/506140704&Searc- - hID=73295944060540
V8 is capable of 25 MPG cruising on the highway.
2. Am I right that the base 3.2 I6 is FWD, but AWD is an option? So for the 3.2 AWD must be ordered from the factory, right?.
3. Who is the manufacturer of the V8 engine?
1. Yes, the V8 comes standard with AWD
2. No, you do not need to order it from the factory. Here in Ohio, most of the 3.2 I6 models on the lots have AWD.
Correct.
2. Am I right that the base 3.2 I6 is FWD, but AWD is an option? So for the 3.2 AWD must be ordered from the factory, right?.
Most markets carry the 3.2 AWD pretty readily.
3. Who is the manufacturer of the V8 engine?
The engine is a joint venture between Volvo Cars and Yamaha.
The engine is built at the Yamaha factory in Japan.
By the way, my father got in it the other day to drive it and said, "I forgot how nice a new car is to drive". I enjoyed reminding him that it is now three years old. Despite the mileage which with today's prices could never be good enough, I am very happy to put my kids in that car everyday. Also, I love how easily the third row seat is to deal with after having to strong arm a Honda Odyssey's thrid row bench.
I seriously considered trading it in and going with a lease vehicle, but financially that just doesn't make sense. My math was as follows:
My xc90 is worth ~$18k. A 3 year lease ~$500/mo. So my money from selling the xc90 would pay for the 3 year lease (approximately of course). If I did the lease deal then after 3 years I would have no vehicle and no equity and would be facing another lease or purchase from zero. If I keep the xc90 I can assume that it will be worth ~$10k at the end of the 3 years. So assuming that the repair costs on the xc90 during this 3 years is much less than this, I end up with somewhere under $10k in my pocket. The missing piece is that if I lease a car I can assume that we can drive worry free, whereas with the xc90 I'm a bit nervous about the next major calamity.
So I don't see enough incentive to get rid of the xc90 because it is not worth $10k to have a newer vehicle to drive. We really like the xc90, altho if I had the T6 I would probably get rid of it due to the transmission issues.
My thoughts...
"Passenger Air Bag Off" light keeps illuminating even with an adult sitting in the seat properly wearing the seat belt. No, the seat is not reclined in any weird position. 3-4 visits to the dealer, got BS responses ranging from "cannot duplicate" to "recalibrated seat sensor". No fix.
Dashboard shows "Fuel Cap Loose" message even though the cap is tight. Then the Check Engine light comes on a day later, requiring a trip to the dealer, who does nothing more than resetting the computer to clear the message. Happened twice within two weeks. Of course, they also told us to "tighten the cap more". C'mon, I've had the car for 4 years, I know how to fill up the tank and put the cap back on! If I was such an idiot, why hadn't this problem ocurred before?
It's the car my wife uses to transport our son. I no longer have the peace of mind that they are in a safe vehicle (how safe is a car if it has hidden problems and can potentially break down any time?). Too bad, we've enjoyed this car so far and was planning to keep it a few more years. I almost bought another Volvo when I replaced my car earlier this year. But I'm glad I had the sense of going with something else more reliable.
Concerning the loose gas cap message. Maybe the "U-ring" seal in the gas cap is bad--dried up enough to fail to seal completely, or has deposits between the seal and the sealing surface in the cap.
You might possibly just replace the rim seal in the cap, if that is available as a separate part. If you can't get the seal or you want to mess around a little, you might try removing the seal (carefully so as not to damage it), then wipe and coat it with a light coating of silicone grease or other suitable grease.
Don't load the outward facing channel with grease, just coat the 3 sealing surfaces. While the seal is out, clean deposits on the sealing surface on the cap.
Or you could try coating the seal in place.
But you might have to get a new cap. I got a new cap when a relative's Jeep began to give that sort of message. He was only going to be in town briefly, the cost wasn't too high, and I didn't realize when I got the cap that the one seal was probably the weak point.
See http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080816033932AA0zc71
Dunno what to tell you about the airbag light.
Now, the title of your post says AWD issues. Yet nothing in your post about it. ??
how safe is a car if it has hidden problems and can potentially break down any time?
Ya lost me here. An airbag or fuel light is not going to make the car "break down."
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
If the check engine light is purely because of a bad gas cap, sure, it's not big deal. And I'll gladly pay $30 to replace it (I found some site selling the OEM cap at $23). And I don't understand why the dealer can't just replace a small part like this under warranty.
I'm just more concerned that this may be caused by a hidden, yet more serious issue, like with a bad fuel sensor in the tank or something. I'm not mechanically inclined to know what to do should the car break down, and I certainly don't want my wife and kid to be caught in that situation.
Like I said, it's been a very enjoyable vehicle until now.
It looks to me like the seal would come out easily and you could use some silicone grease in a small foil pak, usually sold to coat the insides of spark plug wire boots. Buy or beg some. It it doesn't work, you haven't lost much.
But from its design it looks like the seal could crush over time. Of course, it might be another part of the cap that is bad. It looks like it has a check valve in the center which could go bad.
Or it might not be the cap at all. Keep an open mind, but don't start thinking it's something major until you've exhausted the simple and cheap things.
Maybe a seal is available on line from one of the aftermarket Volvo places.
Or a Stant brand replacement cap for $13. Might be made in China though. Try some of the local autoparts stores.
Part Number: ST10834MFR#: 10834"STANT FUEL CAP, PRESSURE VACUUM TYPE -- A High Quality, Direct Fit OE Replacement Fuel Cap, Protects Vehicle's Occupants From Gasoline Vapors, Provides Fuel Economy And Reduces Fuel Emissions"
This Product Fits the Following Vehicles:
2004-2007 Volvo XC90
2005: 5Cyl 2.5L "Gas, FI, Turbo, B5254T2" 2.5T 2005: 6Cyl 2.9L "Gas, FI, Turbo, VIN
and I wouldn't jump to conclusions about hidden problems. Most times the simplest answer is the correct one.
Thanks for clearing up the "AWD" thing, jccai. Now it make sense.
they have to figure out the airbag light. Just be persistent. Maybe the next time it comes on, if possible, drive straight to a dealer and don't shut the car off until someone comes and looks at it. I dunno. Intermittent problems are the toughest.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
We may have something to work with on your check engine light problem.
I just received a notice in the mail from Volvo.
"Volvo Car Corporation has determined that a certain function controlled by the engine management system software may cause the Check Engine light to illuminate falsely....
Your vehicle performs a test to determine if fuel tank vapors are escaping into the atmosphere. Under certain conditions, the test may falsely set the Check Engine light and store one of the following codes: ECM-400C, ECM-434C, ECM-4308, or ECM-P044200....
If your vehicle exhibits this condition during the extended warranty period, Volvo will perform a software upgrade on your vehicle at no charge to you."
The extended warranty they refer to is that they are extending the warranty of the engine management system software to 10yrs/120k miles.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Unfortunately, the person you are replying to hasn't logged in since May, so I wouldn't hold my breath for a reply. You may have better luck posting for info on the Volvo XC90 Transmission board.
Good luck with your vehicle.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks
Any links for these items Please post them.