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As for the Swifter, the problem is that a piece of sand or tiny pebble can get embedded in the pad. Still that was a freaky accident. If you gently go 90 degrees against the scratch, can your fingernail catch it? Is it that deep?
Keep me posted and thanks again.
And since brake pads are so much cheaper, it's better to use them for braking.
The general rule (and there are a few exceptions) is this:
Don't downshift yourself unless you really need that lower gear for something.
Coasting to a stop light isn't one of those 'somethings"
...but engine braking while going down a long steep hill, that makes sense to downshift an automatic, so as to not overheat the brakes.
So, no, don't downshift manually in everyday driving....just when you really need it, like long downhills or towing something uphill.
I guess I could do this at any other shop $150. I don't know about the mechanics of the car, so I can't do it by myself. Any suggestions for this in DFW area?
Thank you for your time and for keeping this forum great.
Thanks.
I know it doen't make sense to ride the brakes but I am leasing the car. After 48 months I will return the car to the dealer. If I wear down my brake pad before the 48 months is up then I will have to pay for the brakes to be replaced.
It seems like sometimes when I downsift using the automanual I feel the brake pedal go down very slightly. Thus I was curious if anyone knew that when the car is downshifted with the automanual if the brakes are automatically applied.
The salesman at Acura told me that they use a new high grade synthetic in the Acura and it only needs to be changed every 12m miles.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
I would like to hear some opinions.
If you choose to go 12K between oil changes, you may want to change the filter a little more often.
Question?
"If I go longer between oil change intervals, do I need to change my oil filter more frequently? Or do I need a special filter?"
Answer-
"Continue to change your oil filter when you change your engine oil. Special filters, or more frequent oil filter changes are not required."
It would not hurt anything to change the filter - but IMO that is 75% of the work (and 85% of the mess) of changing the oil - why bother with doing it or why not just do a complete oil change.
What does Mobile have to say about your warranty?
"If your vehicle is covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual. Proper maintenance practices, including frequently checking the oil level to ensure that the appropriate amount of oil is present, are required to ensure effective performance"
I think the Acura TL manual says synthetic is OK to use - but you still need to change it - the same as regular oil. Its right in black and white - read the manual.
I have nothing against synthetic oil because I use it - I look at it this way - I could use regular oil and follow the computer message/owners manual in the car and most likely be fine - I choose to use synthetic - and follow the computer/ owners manual - synthetic is a margin of safety.
What good does it do to save $100 on oil changes over 2-3 years and get stuck with a repair bill because Acura voided your warranty because you did not properly maintain the car? (per Acura's standard)
It may work on the side door scratches too, from your seat belt. I haven't tried it, but I know what you're talking about, I have the same problem. Again, they're not going to tell you about this spray becuase they have to give it away.
THANKS AGAIN!
thanks
Nick
Now I have my new TL. Do you think that hand washing is easier on the car than a car wash? Could that be the secret to my Saab's appearance. Or could it be that it didn't get it washed all that often?
Just want to keep my anthracite looking the way it does now.
My uncle knows how insane I am when it comes to keeping my cars clean, so he brought me to his car wash to show it off.
It was one of those indoor places and I was very happy to see the level of service you get for such little money.
The cars line up into what becomes a long line, but the vehicles move through quickly and they do a fantastic job.
I wish we had more of those around here where I am.
One thing to watch though, is the towels they use.
I asked the guy, and they are using normal, everyday cotton bath towels.
I prefer a nice micro-fiber, myself.
My basic theory is that ANYTIME you work the paint, it is abrasive in nature...whether you wash it, wax it or whatever.
So what I do (and which has worked great for me) is that I have the car hand washed only but not all that frequently, and I have some wax applied BY HAND, by a careful person (not some over-caffeinated guy with a dirty rag), about TWICE a year.
And that's it.
So my theory is "lay off the paint" as much as you can. Every time you lay into it with hand or buffer you are taking clear coat or paint off the car---it is inevitable.
The crap that lands on a car's finish sticks to it.
It comes in rain, road debris, bird droppings, brake dust, the list goes on and on.
Over time, this stuff literally eats right into the finish.
This is where the occasional claying also comes in handy.
Wash with a ph-balanced car wash, using the right materials and common sense.
I'd rather wash my car 4 times a week, than only twice a year.
With the right car wash solution, the abrasive factor is minimal, far more so than not washing the junk off of the finish every so often.
And be careful with those jelly blades.
Yes, I own one, but they can and do hold debris and abrasives, and yes, they will eventually scratch.
If you need to dry the car quickly, I like the leaf blower option.
Blow the car off and then touch up the water droplets with a microfiber weave towel.
Sounds crazy, but it works.
I don't want to leave a stain where the ink is...
Thanks
Thanks again
Thanks
I'm getting it on my 06 MDX as well.
Drives me NUTS!
Not leather though, just fill from the seat cushion, coming up through the perf holes.
His are completely clear and almost 100% un-noticable.
Get good ones, and they're not too bad.
The other option would be a color matched all-season mat designed specifically for your car.
Acura sells them, and the WeatherTech ones are nice as well.
WeatherTech Mats
I just bought a trunk liner from these guys and it fits/looks awesome.
Scotchguard is great for seats, headliners, etc... but it will never hold up to the abuse floor mats take.
As for the trunk liner, I've been shopping for one too. Thanks for the link! There was a disclaimer that the liner will not fit with the navigation models. Is that true?
He paid $60- for front and rears, and they sit right on top of his existing mats.
You need to call them and tell them the exact model car you have, and they custom cut them for you.
As for WeatherTech and the disclaimer...
I didn't see that, but if it's there, it's most likely correct.
Their customer service is awesome, so if you want more info, I suggest giving them a quick call.
At the time when most of the G owners were wanting them, the link only showed a picture of a dog sitting in the back of a SUV.
Someone called them and they were very helpful in confirming the correct model for our car.
They could very easily point you in the right direction.
Sometimes, dropping and then readding the phone to the system helps.
Have you tried that?
Thanks,
Sounds like exterior wax/polish and interior "Scotchgard." Of course I write this not knowing details or price. Even so, visit zainostore.com for some great products that, more than likely, will be not nearly as expensive as the dealers scam, I mean "Car Care System" (OK, I'm wicked cynical...). Zaino ain't cheap, and you'll have to supply the labor, but the stuff is goooood...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
1) exterior paint protection "with invented hard shell"
2) Interior fabric protection with Banoyl
3) vinyl and leather conditioning
Cost is around $ 750 for 5 years. + around $ 160 twice a year to reapply this protection.
So, ~$470/yr to wax your car (w/$750 up front, non-refundable probably?), Scotchgard and clean the interior. This does not sound like a very good deal to me. Really not good. Really.
How does it sound to the other folks here?
But, it's your car and your $$$...
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
The results are amazing.