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I bought a Cingular Motorola V551 and the clarity (using the hands free link) is better than our home phone.
The only negative so far, is that I notice the outside temp display to be "slow" to give an accurate display. Also, that display should be visible to the passenger. I guess there is no way to do that.
1) We have found a 'troll' here within the past two weeks where a person is reporting problems...but his profile indicates he does not own a TL and does not support any non-american made cars (btw...the TL is assembled in the USA in OH).
2) Isolated issues which are extrapolated to all. Throw the baby out with the bathwater.
Guess what I am getting at is what we are reading on this site are problems (Frisconick is correct..not a representative sample). But can we infer all have the same problems...no. Reason is that only problems are reported...no problems remain not reported.
Any case...I was a little miffed with how that person flamed on another. And pay attention to the Consumer Reports reliability rating...which is a great gauge for all.
ok...I am stepping off my soap box..sorry
As for Frisconick....you may not be Spock...but your car sure does have the lines of a great spaceship
You will also notice that other manufacturers are backing off of the old 3 months/3000 miles. There are oils on the market claiming 5000 or 7500 mile intervals. I have been told that the 3/3000 was overkill and bad for the environment.
Hope this helps.
However I am about to change my mind.
Can anyone help me as to what kind of work should possibly be done on the engine and what should be checked? And what the cost may be? Has original, untouched plugs, etc.
It seems to run good but also seems to lack a little power and mileage.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks george
Toyota and Honda have done particularly well at this with the Accord & Camry. I bet there are more people that only buy accords, or only buy camrys than any other car. I think it used to be that way for Cadillac, back in the '70s.
Anyway, this oil-minder is not something Acura really hyped, and it's not something that people necessarily expect of a car in this range (now auto-headlights is something people expect!!!), so it's not like they had to rush this out to the market for competition reasons. Based on that, and Honda's general conservatism, I am confident they wouldn't add this computerized feature to the car unless they were confident it would work.
If you think about it, probably their biggest defense against engine problems is "the consumer didn't change the oil enough." Well, they just blew up that defense if the consumer can show the car didn't alert them to the need for an oil change.
Another way of putting it, is that Acura just took on a responsibility and a liability that was formerly the consumer's. That wouldn't make financial sense unless they were confident in the system.
And, frankly, it's one of the things that has won me over with this car, and is something I will definitely consider when making my next purchase.
PS - a counterargument to my reasoning is the Sienna tire-pressure gauge. There're a lot of problems for people with run-flat tires. I discount that error b/c the problem is that Toyota installed a gauge that measures how fast a wheel is spinning. With regular tires (that are on most fo the Siennas), if 1 tire is low, it'll spin faster than the others (a mathematical/physics thing based on circumference and distance - trust me). Run flats, of course, are purposely made to maintain their shape when flat, so the computer system doesn't recognize the difference. Anyway, this is an instance of not thinking of the effects w/r/t an add-on option (you get the run-flats only if you have an AWD minivan). The Acura oil monitor is on every TL, and the internal systems are the same, so you don't have the variables to contend with.
After the initial oil change...my plan is to change it at when it reads 20%...probably about 6,000 miles intervals. Figure that oil changes are cheap enough and over the course of 60,000 miles that would translate only into two additional oil changes. Chump change.
A few questions....which others can help on
1) If I change my oil and reset the monitoring system...how will it effect the other servicing reminders (ie rotate tires, etc). So if I change the oil more often...does it goof the other reminders.
2) From real world experiences...when does everyone actually receive reminders and what does it tell you to perform at those intervals?
3) For oil changes...is everyone going to Acura for the change or outsider servicers? The real question is...should we trust the generic oil filters that the outsiders are using?
Thanks...
I don't believe they're related. I got a little concerned that when my "Change oil now" message came on, it didn't alos ask me to rotate the tires. My plan was to have them do both anyway, and specifically ask them to reset taht tire rotation gauge. Anyway, the day before my appt, the tire rotation notice came on. My conclusion from this limited experience is that they are based on separate notifiers. I assume the Oil notification is based on oil level and some "dirt-sensor," while I expect the other stuff is based strictly on miles.
My plan is to change the oil when it says to, and if my book shows I'll need something else soon, I'll get that done too and ask them to reset the appropriate gauge.
3) For oil changes...is everyone going to Acura for the change or outsider servicers? The real question is...should we trust the generic oil filters that the outsiders are using?
That's a tough question. I went to Acura for my 1st, and I don't really trust the Jiffy Lubes/5-minute, $19.99 oil-change places of the world, but we had a good experience with the folks at our local Sears store and also had a good experience at a local tire salesplace that does minor services, so I'd be open to using them. I might talk to them about different filters, but I doubt it really makes a difference. For oil, though, I insist on fully-synthetic.
As for the oil sensor... I was told that it measures the oil temerature... I guess as the viscosity of the oil breaks down, the temperature will rise.
I am only taking mine back to the dealer for everything... If anything happens, I do not want to hear that it was because someone else touched the car. I have the 6/75K extended...
With the technology in the car... I am not messing around. :sick: I figure for the extra $10.00 an oil change it is worth it in peace of mind! I spent $33,000, I guess I shouldn't penny pinch on the scheduled maintenance? And plus... there is a cuppichino machine in the waiting room of my Acura dealership and the girl at the cashier is pretty hot!!!
Actually...the big thing with changing it at the dealer is the oil filter...as I don't in my mind believe all are the same. Not because filtration quality...but the pressure relief overflow...where the oil goes unfiltered if excess pressure is sensed. (someone confirm my thoughts).
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Regarding the comment about changing the oil at the dealer. My major issue is the time to get an oil change at the dealer with the free wash. I really don't want to spend 1.25 hrs when I can get it done in 20 mins elsewhere. However...I will suffer the first few times and periodically there...why not...and check out the cars in their lot and the surrounding dealers.
So don't feel so confident if you take your car to the service department... just check the work for anything wrong just in case... that could save you a lot of trouble eventually. Otherwise the oil is the same anywhere you take your car. They will put in 10W-30 grade. If your car has more than 50k or 60k miles, you might want to put 10W-40 grade which has more viscosity.
Also about rotating your tires.... always mark your tires before they do the rotation... just in case they do the oil change, but "forget" to do the tire rotation because they got so many cars to work on...but still charge you for it.
Thanks
Yes, I noticed some wind noise at 110 MPH. I think tire noise is more prevalent than wind noise, but that is to be expected with high performance tires and relatively aggressive suspension.
I am considering purchasing an Acura 2005 TL in the next few weeks. Can anyone recommend a good dealer in the CT area. I was quoted at $31,500 w/o Nav, is this a fair price? Also, for those of you that have the Nav System, is it worth the extra couple grand? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
One more question, does it make more sense to wait until the 06 style?
Thanks
Seriously, the TL, IMO, is very quiet. Maybe not Lexus-quiet, but very quiet for a Honda product, even at highway speeds.
And like my M, the C pillar is pretty large, you just have to use your mirrors, eyes and neck properly for visibility!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Sitting in the drivers seat, lean your head over to the drivers window and adjust the left mirror so you can barely see the car. For the right mirror, lean to the middle of the car and adjust the mirror so you can barely see the car. This takes a little getting used to because you can't see behind you in these mirrors anymore, but it elliminates blind spots on the side of your car totally.
On the other hand, if you want a tight, sporty, fast,fun ride, that's the new 05 TL. I've got an 00TL and an 05TL and they ride and handle completely differently.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
To share more oil change horror stories... I had a friend who had a cronic oil leak not because of a loose oil nut. But rather because the oil nut was cranked too tight too many times. No matter if there is a new washer...it leaked. That stunk.
What I used to do for my cars is to buy Fram brand filters and hand it off to the oil change place. However...the places I have been going to...they don't accept outside parts.
I don't know if you noticed...but the oil viscosity for a TL is something like a 5w-20. I have forgotten the exact...but it is much lighter.
Rotating tires....that is a good topic. How often is everyone rotating tires? Waiting for the rotation indications? How often is that? Wouldn't a more frequent rotation of every oil change (say 7k) make the tires last longer?
Wind noise.... I have a 2005 and absolutely no whistling. What is even more amazing is when I have my moonroof tilted up...there isn't even any (I think when I look at the moonroof...there is a 'skirt' that is on its edges). I also think that the whistling and any wind noise would be pretty tough to enter into a TL. Next time open the doors of the TL and you will see TWO...yes....TWO sets of door gaskets.
Also regarding noise in the cabin...it should be much more quite than most cars. Next time partially roll down the windows and notice the extra thickness of the windows. It is almost as quite as my BMW 7.
Blind spots. Ok...this is my take. There will be blind spots in any car if you don't turn your head. And there will be visibility issues with almost any car (unless you drive a GMC Pacer) until you get used to the car. Yes the rear back pillar is thicker...but you will and should get used to it once you drive your car. Yes the rear driver side will be difficult...until you get used to your car. It is like how a new mattress feels either too soft or too firm until you sleep in it a few nites...or how a new pair of shoes....you get the message. So overall...use common sense no matter in driving whatever car you choose.
Thanks,
The sound she heard might have been the tire encountering the object that did the damage. The sure way to tell is to look at the part of the tire that you don't have.
BTW it is possible - even preferred - to have the tire absorb the damage rather than the rim. Alloy rims are fairly expensive.
Hope this helps.
If you've ever seen strips of black rubber lying in the highway, it's probably the tread from a retread tire.
If the car still doesn't start when you return and reconnect the battery, that would indicate the problem is with the battery holding its charge. If the car does start, then you know there's something draining the battery.