Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
1. The compressor kicks on, however, only hot air comes out. Almost like it's pulling air from the outside (like it was on Vent).
2. I put the A/C on MAX but still only hot air.
I have done some troubleshooting and this is what I've done:
1. Made sure the compress is working and it is.
2. Tried to see if it was low on freon - it wasn't.
3. Check the fuses, they were fine.
What else should I look for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Amy
Marietta, GA
Shortly after I "fixed" the problem the engine light came on and I had difficulty starting the engine. I had to race the engine and throw it into gear. I thought this problem was similar to clogged fuel injectors. My mechanic concurred. The engine now starts fine and my mechanic thinks I may have blew the debris, which may have fallen in while he had the engine torn apart, out. He used his diagnostic brick (machine) to reset the engine light and every thing ran fine for a short while. Now the light is back on but the engine seems to be running fine. I will be taking it back in.
Does anyone know what kind of problems might trigger the engine light, especially those problems that might be a result of repairing a leaky intake manifold gasket?
Now, I have the Service Engine Soon Light on and the scan has multiple error codes including the crank position sensor. Oh yes, the engine now runs poorly, sigh.
As the rear plugs and wires are hard to access and require removing the coil pack assembly and disconnecting wiring, I am suspecting that I damaged, bent, or broke a connection or wire that does not show. It looks like the previous owner added a wire to turn the AC compressor on.
I have plugged/unplugged all the connections again, checked vacuum lines, and closely examined everything over and over again. I am putting off serious troubleshooting until this weekend.
I am open to suggestions/advice on troubleshooting, bypassing the bad wires, or even replacing the somewhat shakey looking harness from a salvage yard. I am fairly experienced and skilled both but am always eager for advice or suggestions that may help.
One tip is to go to your auto parts store and buy a roll of the appropriate size vacuum hose plus elbows and connectors.
If the vacuum is not it, then you may have pulled or loosened up a connection in one of the harnesses. Alas, that seems to be my problem in post 172. I figured either a lot of things went wrong simultaneously or I have a wiring harness problem.
The instructions/manual says drill them out, but you can't drill out the steel screw thread easily. I cut mine off with a Dremel cut off tool and replaced it with nuts and bolts with thread locker. You must do something to keep vibration from loosening them. The wire rods come off fairly easily, but it is tight working inside the door.
I would check lubrication and interferences before I replaced anything. On one of my doors, one of the wires was bent by the previous owner or a clumsy mechanic. Some of the wires are really tough to properly strighten. Be careful not to break anything.
2. If the compressor is working, the condenser in front of the radiator should get very hot.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
thank you
P.S. We'll take the rain. Haven't seen any for 3 weeks.
Good Luck
Thanks!
1. There is an inline fuse taped inside a wiring harness behind the dashboard which was causing most of the error codes.
2. The rough running was caused by 2 bad Autolite spark plugs. Looking at one I took out, it did look like it had been dropped (and it was not by me!!!!). The second plug looked fine, but had a break in the ceramic just inside the metal base, which came off in my hand when I pulled the tight new cap off. I replaced all the plugs with new Champion copper top and for now, all is running well.
Good luck
My wife and I each have a Century (1998 and 2000).
We are both experiencing the same problem. Once and a while, when we go to start the car it does not turn over. All bells and whistles turn on, but the car does not even engage the starter. Its like its dead. If we take it out of park put it back into park a few times or keep messing with it, it will eventually start. Also, if I push it forward a couple of feet, that will help it get its stuff together. At times the "Security" light stays on other times it does not.
This must be a semi-common problem as we both are having it. I am not certain if there is a sensor to let the car know its in park???? Or if its a problem with the ignition/key.
Any thoughts?
Peace
Roger
Next time it happens I will try another key... Though it seems to doit with either of our keys.....
For some reason, it just seems like the car does not think its in Park and thus will not activate the starter. I may try a different key though. If I give my wife my key (to her car) and it still happens, then we know its not (well maybe not) the key.
Thanks again!
Peace
Roger
PS MY key is the original, but her key for her car is not the original. I think I'll swap keys.
thank ya much,
j :sick:
1986 Buick Century Limited ( V6-173 2.8L )
First:
The screen where you would usually see Milage, and if the Car is in Drive, Reverse, Nuetral, etc.. is dead.
No lights. Shifting from park to Drive and Reverse is all done by feel.
Second:
The headlights.
I don't get it, the high beams work, in fact, all lights work EXCEPT for the regular distance headlights.
I have to drive at night holding back the handle so I can have lights on (even if it's just highbeams.
I have checked ALL fuses, including those under the hood, have checked/changed all bulbs.
What the heck is the problem?