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Comments
Need to replace the Torque Strut on my 1994 Buick century. Was taken in for inspection and was told that in order to Pass I need to get that done. (the guy even showed me what I need to get done)
Called around and got quotes anywhere from $80 to almost $300.
Needless to say I am not going anywhere close to them.
I checked online and the part is $9.99 at Auto zone.
Seems like it's on top, right under the hood and held together with 2 bolts.
Could it be that easy to remove. Just losen up the bolts, take the old one out and put the new one in. Or is it more complicated?????????????
Have to mention I have NO CAR REPAIR EXPERIENCE, other than checking my fluid levels.
Thanks for taking the time to read and I will check back this afternoon after work to see what the responses are.
Have A GREAT DAY.
I am planning on working on it this weekend since the weather will be gorgeous.
Just want to know if I have to somehow support the motor from the bottom (like raising it a bit) or if I can just undo the bolts, take the old one out and put the new one in.
Please answer the question if you can. Really appreciated
Thanks
2. Remove transaxle mount nuts, then install suitable engine support fixture.
3. Raise engine only enough to provide clearance for mount removal.
4. Remove mount to engine bracket nuts, then mount
5. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.
Book labor is only .5 hour but I'm worried about the cheap part you're buying. List price is almost $100. How can you get it for $10 bucks?
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89 CENTURY quits at times driving hot or cold fast or slow. Will usually restart while still rolling and go on. Sometimes quits 2 or 3 times. Sometimes wont start after sitting or overnight. Sometimes starts fine.
I have 40 psi fuel pressure, When it wont start at home, ether will get it started. Very intermittentent problem.
I replaced fuel pressure regulator as when I tapped on it , she starts n runs.
Thank you
M
I am not a mechanic by any means, but I have had problems with my windows for years. I finally took it to a dealer to have it diagnosed. The verdict: a short in the right passenger door lock actuator. I can only raise/lower my windows with the right passenger door open because of this. I have not fixed it yet because I have heard horror stories about taking apart a door due to all of the electrical parts involved in power locks and power windows.
thanks
joe
P.S. I told her to consider running up to Auto Zone and buying some Lucas fuel cleaner to see if it will help any.
-Patrick
Donation rules have changed so you might get very little for it. Could be better for you to sell it to someone who knows how to re-install an airbag. I'd sell it as a "parts car only" and write that in 3 foot letters on the Bill of Sale.
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www.car-part.com
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local garage. $500. Worked OK for about 2 months - now has stuck at 3/4 to full and I know it is about to run out of gas at 320 miles (thanks to ethanol). Took back to garage, they said
again that they replaced it but I have some serious questions because the story don't check
with what I can figure out just by commons sense and math. Anybody know is there any where that I can disconnect wires between tank and gauge and do a do an electrical or continuity test ?
winter. I relate it to the additive, whether ethanol or some other
mandated concoction legislated by our know nothing but everything govmnt
authorities.
one time. It drove me and three mechanics crazy till I finally found a fellow who solved it.
It was, at that time, an ignition module located inside the distributor assy - but that may not have been e f i Good luck Rojeur
What could be wrong ?