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Ford F-250 Owners



  • Just found out my 03 F250 has 3.73 gear in front and 4.10 gear in rear. Plan on trading it in tomorrow. Worried about further damage. Any recommendations
  • This can't be a factory job, is it??? If it were, I'd make them fix it!!!! As far as any damage to the drivetrain, there shouldn't be any unless you have engaged 4-wheel drive on dry pavement or any other non-slick surface. Even in mud or some other slick surface, do damage should have been done.

    Walt: I sent the guy an email. I didn't know if Edmunds would allow me to post a website address. I got my hand slapped by the host over in the Jeep forums for doing that. Didn't want to take a chance a do it again. Bob's place there really is a very good one also.
  • I am in the process of ordering an 04 F250. I plan to get the King Ranch package, Diesel, auto, 4x4. I plan to tow my boat several time per year and may pull it up to 1K miles. My wife and I have talked about getting a 5th wheel some day but who knows. The majority of the time this truck will get me back and forth to work in the winter.

    The dealer has recommended that I go with the standard suspension w/o heavy front springs or stabilizer bar. He thinks I'll prefer the better ride on a daily basis over the slight improvement in towing behavior.

    Any advice who be appreciated.
  • Get the heavier front suspension. The diesel engine is very heavy, at least my 7.3 is. I've added airbags to my front as I have noticed a slight drop in the front. And I can point you to several PSD owners on another website that has upgraded their front springs as they are also sagging from the weight of the engine. Also, get the camper certification package. That probably will give you the heavy front springs, but it will also give you larger sway bars front and rear. I have them on mine and body roll in a corner is almost non-existant. When you get that 5'er, you'll appreciate that extra stability. However, if you off-road your truck very much, then you might not want the stabilizer bars as they do limit the amount of articulation in the suspension.
  • bpetbpet Posts: 16
    Does anyone know where to find Technical Service Bulletins for a 2000 F-250 SD 4x4?
  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    I bought a ‘04 F250 SD SC with the 6.0L 6spd auto. My truck came with a 3.73 limited slip rear axle. About a week ago I was parked with my pass side rear tires in a small snow bank on the side of the road. When I went to leave, the pass rear tire started spinning. I could see my driver's side tire in the mirror, it wasn't moving at all. I was not hammering on it at all, just gently accelerating. I had no load, and no trailer, just the empty pickup. I thought a limited slip was supposed to push from both tires? I asked my dealer about it, they claim that the factory has told them the rear end is supposed to break free at 53 ft. pounds of torque, so this is normal. What the H_ll good is that when you have 504 at around 2k RPM?? I figure I could have saved the 300.00 and had a standard rear-end for that matter. Anyone have/had a similar experience, or input on this?
  • There's a little trick with a limited slip rear end to get going when you're in situation where one wheel is spinning.

    Push the parking brake in part way. Not a lot, but just enough to put some drag on the wheel that has no traction. This will shift some of the torque over to the side that's not spinning and allow it to start going.
       It's a "limited slip" rear end, so it only will divide the torque between the two sides up to a certain point. (Like the spec the dealer mentioned.) If you want power equally distributed to both wheels, you'd have to get a "locking" differential. Lockers are great for mud bogging, and can get you out of really deep snow, but they're impractical and possibly dangerous for normal driving. A great compromise is an "air locker" - a pneumatic control on the dash allows you to momentarily lock the differential when needed, then release it. Unfortunately, they're $$$.
       Lot of folks complain about the Ford LS rear end. I think it's fine - applying the brake has always worked on my F350. It takes a while to get a feel for it, but then it's second nature.
  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    Thanks for your reply. I have heard of that trick before, but It didn't occur to me at the time I guess. I think I was too upset over what I was observing. I have had limited slip rear-ends on several cars I've owned in the past, they never acted this way. I read your explanation, but what I don't understand is why we should have to be "tricking" the rear-end to do something that it should do normally? Their explanation of a 53 ft. lb. breaking point seems awful low to me. You could almost go past that just putting the truck into Drive! I mean, my old Camaro would do better than that - I guess I may be stuck with it, but I'm not going down quietly as far as the dealer's concerned.
    Have you, or anyone else had trouble with door-alignment on the Super Cab? Mine knock and shift when on a bumpy road (normal speed). If I'm at a complete stop, turn the wheel hard in either direction, then accelerate, it (driver's side)shifts so loud it scares you. (First time in happened, I thought I ran something over pulling out of a parking space) Luckily nothing/no one was there!
    Thanks again for your help.

  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    Sorry to be hitting you guys up for info again. I'm being told be another 04 6.0 diesel owner that the Hyper-chip is the way to go. I realize my warranty would most likely be voided to do something like that. This guy is telling me that the computer can be rolled-back to factory default settings before you have it serviced, and the performance boost is well worth it. Now mine has already been re-programmed once by the dealer a week after I bought it, due to an emissions recall. Has anyone tried this Hper-Chip? Is any of the talk true?
  • I heard from a person who installs the boxes and changes exhaust that the 6.0 is really awsome, but i also heard from a guy who worked at the ford manufacturer that you should not install anything, don't change exhaust or add a box, it will decrease the life of your pickup and increase problems later on, those trucks are built to last like they are from the factory. For the other person wondering about the tacs on the new 6.0 mine reads 2 at 70 mph.
  • Your friend is correct, but not completely. Those engines are built by Navistar(International). They are extremely tough engines from the factory. Adding a mild chip and changing the exhaust most likely will not in and of itself shorten the engine's life or cause problems down the road. Lack of proper maintenance will, especially when coupled with performance mods.

    The only word of caution that I have when adding a performance chip is this: Get a pyrometer, a gauge that reads the exhaust gas temperature. A chip can raise the EGT's to a point where turbo failure could occur. However, lot's of people run mild chips with no pyrometer and never seem to have any problems either.

    You mentioned also adding an aftermarket exhaust system. A larger diameter system with a less restrictive muffler, or none at all, will most likely reduce the EGT's. However, there is a downside to doing this. Unless you're going to go with a hot chip, you may notice a loss of low-end torque. I don't know the physics behind this, I just know of others that have noticed it. I'm sure if I wanted to, I could find dyno data to prove it also.
  • Gentlemen,
    Thank you for the sites! I have bookmarked them! They will come in handy soon.

    Right now, we're looking for nerf bars that are frame-mounted, and not body-mounted. Any recommendations!
  • lleggllegg Posts: 5
    I'm looking for a truck to tow a gooseneck horse trailer with a GVWR of 6080. I think I want an F-250 Super Duty, extended cab, 4X4, manual transmission, gas engine. The truck won't be used more than about 1,000 miles per year for short trips (less than 50 miles each) so I don't think I want a deisel.Any arguements there? What I'd like your "expert" advice on, guys, is what other details I need to know-I'm not knowledgeable on gear ratios, types of engines, etc. Can you give me a hand? Thanks, Lynn
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
      Considering you're only doing short trips, and only a 1000 miles per year towing, the diesel would not be a good option for you. It'll pull anything, and gets significantly better mileage when towing than a gas engine, but it costs ~$3K more and you'd be hard pressed to make up that money difference on fuel savings alone. Maintenance is more involved as well, and the low miles you say you'd be doing may cause you a few more hassles with a diesel. Stick with a gasser.

     Does the 6080 lbs trailer weight include the weight of the horses? A gooseneck puts a fair portion of its weight over the rear axle of truck and this affects the payload capacity of the truck. Payload of F250 Supercab is around 2200 lbs. (Payload includes passengers and their gear, along with the weight of the gooseneck.) That trailer puts at least 20% of its weight on the truck - that's 1200 lbs right off the top of your payload, before the passengers, the cooler, luggage etc. - doesn't leave too much payload capacity for the tack, feed, etc. (If you've got a couple of 1200 lb horses to add to the weight, the remaining payload's even lower.) Don't want to spend your money, but for ~$750 more you might be better off with next step up in trucks. The same configuration in an F350 - has a payload of about 3300 lbs. You can "legally" carry half a ton more.

       Also where do you travel? Any big hills that you're gonna have to go over? There are two gas engine choices in the Superduties- 5.4L V8, and 6.8L V10. The 5.4L can have either 3.73:1, or 4.10:1 rear ends. The 6.8L comes with either the 3.73 or a 4.30:1 rear ratio. The higher number means that the engine turns over more times for each revolution of the rear wheels. So the higher number ratio puts out more torque and allows you to pull a heavier load easier than the lower number axle ratio. Of course since the engine spins more, there is once again a small mileage penalty.
      You said you wanted a manual transmission. This will give you a lot of control over the engine's power, so you could probably be fine with the 5.4L with the 4.10 gears. (Might still be a little slow towing over a mountain.) A V10 with 3.73 is only about $600 more, but you'll have a lot more power at your disposal, and surprisingly, the gas mileage is not much different than the V8 with 4.10 - the V8 has to work harder to pull the same load and ends up burning just as much gas.

       I am biased. I have a V10, 3.73 automatic, 4x4 Crew Cab. I tow more than you, but still not enough to warrant the diesel. I've towed 10K lbs and am quite happy. (Well except for maybe the towing mileage.)
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I agree with everything Walt said, with one exception. The diesel will set you back ~$4,500, not $3,000. Sorry Walt, your advice is so dead-on, I felt that I had to pick it apart somehow.
  • lleggllegg Posts: 5
         thanks for the advice! I took a test drive today in a truck that had most of what I was looking for-F250 SD, 4 X 4, extended cab. It was a little sluggish on hills, and I was wondering if this is typical of this truck, and if it is a truck I should consider for what I want to haul.The trailer I will be hauling is a gooseneck that weighs 2100 lbs. empty and has a gross loaded weight of just over 6000 lbs. The truck I drove today was a Triton V8, 5.4 L. gas engine. Of the three engine sizes available in this truck, what do you think of each considering what I will be hauling (3 horse gooseneck trailer). Thanks so much for your advice! Lynn
  • lleggllegg Posts: 5
        forogt to mention the truck I test drove was a 2001 model (any particular problems with that year?) and it has 63,000 miles on it, one owner. Looks clean and rides nice.
  • lleggllegg Posts: 5
    One more correction....the trailer weighs 4100 lbs. empty, not 2100. It has an automatic transmission.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The 5.4 Triton is a fine engine, and with proper maintanance should go well beyond 100k miles. But, that sluggishness that you noticed, while driving around empty, will only be compounded when you have that trailer behind you. For what I think you are wanting, I'd suggest holding out for a V-10.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Jim is right. 5.4L is good engine, but the Superduty with 4x4 and an automatic is a big load to move, so it's gonna feel sluggish. Worse when towing. If you can find one with a manual transmission, and a 4:10 rear axle, it won't be sluggish as compared to the automatic.

       The diesel is the superior platform for towing. With it, you would barely even know that you're pulling the horse trailer. If you can find a good used one it would serve you well, though it would cost more $$. But be advised, it'll take extra care and attention to deal with the foibles of a diesel. 15 quart Oil changes. Issues with fresh diesel fuel, water in the fuel, then summer vs. winter diesel and cold starting issues. (My wife dislikes diesel fuel odor, and positively loathes the exhaust smell.) Loads of folks deal with these matters all the time and love diesels; it would be a matter of your personal choice and pocketbook.
      My (biased) choice is still the V10. The extra two cylinders make a big difference in the way the truck moves out. (I have a 3.73 rear.) No special driveability, or maintenance issues compared to the diesel. Similar power output, just not as good mileage as the diesel. I surprise other cars with how fast my 7500 lb 4x4, crew cab behemoth can move when I need it to. It's just a bit disconcerting to watch the gas gauge visibly move as a result.

      My truck is an '01, with 26K on it,(not my daily driver,) just out of warranty a couple weeks ago. No major problems with it. One stupid one: lock on tailgate is possessed and locks itself going over bumpy roads. Only problems I've heard other folks consistently complain about is a tendency to go through ball joints quickly, and warped brake rotors resulting in pulsing brakes. V10s can sometime have a problem with blowing out a spark plug - I guess cylinder head is only 5 or 6 threads thick (and can be stripped?) Plugs are supposed to last 100K miles, but you still need to pull and inspect them every so often. I put anti-seize compound on mine, and take special care to put them in at the specified torque setting. So far no problem.
    Older model (pre '01) Superduties were a bit shy on transmission cooling - could factor in towing on hills. People add tranmission temperature gauges and supplemntal cooling to prevent costly problems from overheating the transmission.
     I love the truck, and would have no pause in selecting the same setup should I need to buy another.
  • lleggllegg Posts: 5
    Thanks so much to everyone who shared their experiences with me; it has really helped in picking out a truck!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
  • snowjumpsnowjump Posts: 3
    Power chips..anytime you add performance you lose longevity. Also they WILL shorten your torque converter life. $2500 trans HD upgrade will help. If money isnt a problem, the more power the better. Mild chips will improve your mileage and towing ease w/o too much loss of life.
      Dont buy a F-250/350 crew w/o the diesel. 1 performance 2 resale!! short mileage V10 ok. The 7.3 is proven, good luck to the 03 04 6.0 guys, till they get the bugs out. If you are unlucky enough to enjoy a 7.3 repair bill open your wallet its going to hurt.
      I recommend a long box for towing any 5th wheel.
      Bring on the Duramaxs and the Cummins, they'll never be #1..
    This is my 3rd diesel, 84 F250 328,000, 94 F250 211,000, 2002 F250 crew 65,000. still own them all.
    good luck with your super D you'll love it!!!

  • snowjumpsnowjump Posts: 3
    Although the 7.3 is a Navistar/International Engine. It carries the patented Caterpillar unit injector system. HEUI

    Love my unit injectors

    Miss my ol pump
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    And dang those things are expensive to replace!!! What oil do you recommend? Around here, Rotella is priced about the same as everything else.
  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    I have an '04 250 SD, 6.0L Diesel Automatic. Just the other day it got pretty warm around here and as I moved the thermostat all the way to the cold position for the first time, I noticed that my vent was throwing chilled air. My switch was set in the 1 o'clock position which is a split between the floor and chest level, but not anywhere near the A/C label at 7 o'clock. It was not near Defrost either. When I popped the hood, I noticed that the A/C unit was kicking in and out, just as if you were using the A/C? Anyone had this problem? As usual the dealer has no clue.(Can't imagine the amt. of fuel I must have been wasting all winter long)
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The compressor will run when the selector is in that position. I can't believe the dealer didn't even have a clue!?!?! Geez, find a new dealer. What's gonna happen when you have a real problem? Don't worry about that "extra fuel." I have never been able to establish a fuel mileage difference between A/C on and A/C off. And believe me, I keep very detailed records. That engine is sooo strong that the A/C compressor doesn't even affect it.
  • I'm considering using Amsoil on my f250 Powerstroke Deisel. Any suggestions about what weight I should be using?
  • hdriderhdrider Posts: 49
    Trying to find a good oil filter for the 6.0L. I was considering the Amsoil but can't find anything that designates the part number for the engine. Does anyone have that? Are there any other recommended oil filters out there? Thanks in advance! -Dave
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I use the recommended 15w-40 year 'round. The manual says to use 10w-30 below something like 30 degrees, but since I keep mine in the garage and plugged in during the winter, I don't need it. I am using Rotella-T and change every 5k. If you're thinking about going with the Amsoil, I'm assuming for extended change intervals, I'd still use the 15w-40 since it should flow better at colder temps.

    Dave, got your email just now. I use the Motorcraft filter, part no. 1995. Just under $10 here at WallyWorld. Since I don't do extended changes and always change the filter, I don't see any reason to buy the more expensive filters. Also, I have a Jeepin' buddy that works in a paper factory. He produces the paper used in air and oil filters. We got into a long discussion one day about oil filters. He told me that his company does extensive testing of all the various filters that their paper is used in. He told me the Motorcraft oil filter performs well in both a single pass test and a multi-pass test. He didn't comment on the Amsoil filter, so I don't know anything about their performance.
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