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Hyundai Tucson



  • greg5greg5 Posts: 2
    I was a bit surprised when I read that Consumer Reports is forecasting poor reliability for the Tucson. I went to the local bookstore and found in the '06 new cars book from Consumer Reports that they give it a solid black circle for reliability. But that doesn't necessarily mean everyone will have lots of problems with their Tucson.

    It could be that since it's a brand new model there are bound to be a few flukes. For instance, when I drove off the lot with my Tucson about 3 months ago, I had to take it right back because when I turned on the headlight switch, the windshield and rear wipers came on and the horn honked (but the headlights did not come on). Plus, when I turned on the turn signals, they flashed in both directions. The Hyundai dealer fixed it in a day. Since then, it has been perfect. So, maybe their reliability forecasts are because of instances like these and maybe won't be an indicator of long-term reliability.
  • Yeah, the "poor" rating is a bit misleading. Consumer Reports scores vehicles based on mean problem rate for a given model year. What they really rated it was "much worse than average" due to reports from their subscribers.

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The car (Tucson LX V6) was booked today at Miskinis Motor, Hyundai in Hyannis (Cape Cod) for its 15K service ($119). Equally, during the service it was investigated about the “clunking” sound when reversing when the car was engaged in full 4WD. This anomaly was noted 1 month after I bought the car.

    The technician found that the most probable cause of this anomaly was the 4WD VISC. COUPLING and replaced it with a new one under warranty ($600 part). The service manager said that the noise was not eliminated but reduced. He said we should try the car in a muddy surface. At this moment is raining in Cape Cod so I may try later on.

    I was also offered a detailed valleting service ($119) to clean the car inside and out. The car had to be booked again because they didn’t do a very good job.

    I am taking the car on a long journey to Peru (South America) and some of the documentation to freight the car from Panama to Guayaquil (Ecuador) requires the Engine Number. When I requested this data from the service manager, he said that he had never heard of anybody asking for that information and that he didn’t know where the engine number was located. I had to show him the Owner’s Manual where he could locate this number. He said this would take time and the car was booked again to find this number.

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Miskinis garage at Cape Code replaced a component in the Differential, and replaced all the front light combination (fogging inside the transparent plastic). I bought my own synthetic Mobil 1 (10w-30) to replace the engine oil offered by the garage and I ordered some car parts for my long journey to Peru. The attention of this garage was very acceptable.

    From Cape Cod to Los Angeles (4K miles) the car has been responsive, with smooth driving. It seems that the engine becomes noisier after 1 or 2 hours driving (70-75 miles per hour). Brakes are only responsive when pressing the brakes hard. Perhaps this is normal when the car is loaded with weigh equivalent to 4-5 passengers.

    During my driving I noted that my right arm was exerting more force than my left arm to control the steering. I released the steering wheel on a long straight road (speed 40-50 miles per hour) and noted that the car pulled to the right side slowly but very noticeable. It came to my mind the event I had in New York driving through the horrible streets of this city full of big pot holes with drivers overtaking you from the right and left and not giving any chance other than to hit these pot holes at speeds of 40-50 miles)

    I took the car to Gare Grove Hyundai (CA 92844) to explain about the pulling problem and I was told to take the car to an alignment specialist. When I said I wanted the engine oil changed with my own brand they said they would charge me the same price with or without their oil. After I argued that the camber and caster of the Tucson are pre-set at the factory and if something were wrong with their values the most probable cause was that something had been damaged so an alignment specialist cannot mend the problem by using sophisticated equipment. They told me to bring the car next week for an inspection and that if something is wrong with the hardware I will have to pay for it to put the car right and they didn’t want to book the car formally. It was a disappointing experience so I decided to try another dealer.

    Will someone in this forum give me some good advice or comments to deal with this problem in the best possible way?

    Equally, I have learnt that if I want to replace my factory tires (BF Goodrich, 235/60 TR16 Spec) Hyundai garages do not stock them although the tires theoretically can be requested through the Parts Department by using the part number for the tires. Gare Grove Hyundai told me to buy the tires from somewhere else.

    A wheel weight for the tire balancing is also a problem with these tires specialists. In my previous wheel balancing someone put a weight clip that has damaged my factory alloy wheels by practically eating the aluminium cover of the alloy wheel. Someone recommended me to use adhesive weight wheel balancing but I am a bit worried about it falling off while on the move.

    I would also like to hear from someone who has had similar problems or otherwise recommend me which weight clips material to request. I think this is a problem overlooked by the majority of car owners.

  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Yesterday I took the car to Lamar Hyundai (CA 900701) for 18K miles service ($145) whereby I was assured by the service manager that the vehicle pulling to the right side will be looked at as part of the service and will be sorted out. Only after requesting an alignment print out before and after the alignment diagnoses did the manager consider doing this job.

    The caster and the camber are angles that are not adjustable, because they are pre-set at the factory (See TSB 304-50-013). It says that the steering knuckle is installed with the strut assembly at factory so it can not be modified by any alignment machine. So the pulling is a very serious problem that should not be taken lightly. A pulling problem generally implies a defective strut or a defective lower arm or a defective knuckle or toe out of specification or camber out of specifications. However according the alignment print out only the camber reading was +0.6 degree out of tolerance (the maximum is + or - 0.5 degree) (in both front wheels). I assume that this is a very expensive job to put it right and I don’t know if this is covered by the warranty. The fact that both wheels are +0.6 degree of camber angle, lead me to believe that the car was sold to me with this problem. This is a problem that can only be noticeable after long hours of highway driving.

    I don’t think the technician bothered inspecting consciously the knuckle/strut combination and opted for the easier way to mislead me, by increasing the air pressure of the front passenger tire from 35 psia to 40 psia as a way to balance the car drifting to the right. However, this trick didn’t work, the car is still pulling to the right in spite of the fact that the tires where rotated and balanced according the dealer invoice.

    I wonder if some members could comments on the above and give me some advice to confront this problem.

  • dovid2dovid2 Posts: 90
    "For vehicles that were new or substantially redesigned during that time, data from the just one or two years was used." CNN

    Why such a poor write-up is a good question, since normally they say on a new model, "Not enough information available."

    In addition, CNN quotes them as saying the Elantra is "Average". However, for the '04 model, they gave it almost all red balls, indicating above average reliability.
  • I would like to respond to a portion of your post...the part about wheel weights and alloy wheels. All modern balance/alignment/tire stores recommend and use "stick on" type wheel weights for alloy wheels. As you noted the clip on type damages the clear coat used on this type wheel by being hammered onto the rim. This cuts through the protective coat and allows water, and salt water (snow melting salt,and worse chemicals) in the north to get to the aluminum causing the corrosion you noted. Stick on weights will NOT fly off because they are designed for this type use.Balance can generally be achieved by placing weights on the inside of the rim but they don't look too out of place even on the outside.
  • Who really pays attention to the Communist News Newtwork anyway? :confuse:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Let's stay away from the cable network wars! :)

    tidester, host
  • Are there any hot chips around to improve low rev torque in the Tucson V6?
  • Hello everyone.

    I'm getting ready to buy a Tucson within the next couple of months. Do you think I should buy a 2006, or wait for the 2007 next year that is supposed to have some improvements and new features? Currently there are not many rebates on the 2006 Tucson. Maybe there will be some next month.

    My '05 Elantra just turned one year old today. It has been problem-free. I'm excited to buy another Hyundai soon.

    Thanks for your help!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    G'day Oztuck, try the Chip Upgrades.. worth it? discussion too.

    Steve, Host
  • The Hyundai maintenance schedule lists for periodic replacement the "Fuel Tank Air Filter" - not to be confused with the normal air intake filter. Where is it located? Are the filters expensive? Is this a do it yourself job? Thanks
  • "In addition, CNN quotes them as saying the Elantra is "Average". However, for the '04 model, they gave it almost all red balls, indicating above average reliability."

    CR is basically saying that the numbers now suggest that if you buy a new Elantra today, it will in all likelihood have average overall reliability for its age during the time that you own the vehicle (based on the data for years 2001-05 in their latest subscriber survey). While the 2002-04 Elantras have an above-average overall reliability rating for their respective years, the 2001 and (more importantly) 2005 models exhibited only average scores. Since the '05s had a comparatively higher problem-rate than the '04s, the reliability of future Elantras inclusive of this generation (i.e., 2001-06; the '07 model will be all-new) is unlikely to be quite as solid as they were during 2002-04MYs. So in the end, all the years combined (though appropriately weighted toward the newer units) yield a score of about 15% above the mean (0%) -- or roughly 5% below the "above average" threshold.

    As for the Tucson|Sportage, reported problems were especially high for brand-new vehicles -- even amongst first-year models. Engine and suspension troubles were reported, but only moderately so. The most notable issues were with the transmission, drive system, fuel system-related constituents, and brakes. Overall, it scored around 55% below the mean -- or roughly 10% into the "much worse than average" class. Since this was a new introduction, though, reliability could easily improve to an average rating (or even above-average) in just one or two model years -- especially since Hyundai has a reputation to build/maintain.

  • Have 2500 miles on my new Tucson, checked with dealer service today about headlights. They shine out just so far and then light stops leaving a black shadow across highway. He said they are preset, cannot adjust low beam seperate from high beam. He was very familiar with the complaint, said if you try to raise the low beam the high beam rises also and then high beam is too high to be effective. Anyone else with this problem?
  • It isn't a problem per se. The lights use a reflector set up that is European in design. By that I mean that on low beams there is a sharp cut-off so that roadside items are illuminated (such as deer, bikers, walkers et.) but the light beam doesn't continue and scatter unchecked resulting in uneven and poorly defined illumination. This is and has been common on most European brands i.e. BMW,VW etc. Since most US brands didn't use this type technology(maybe they see the light by now...pun intended) users such as yourself are disappointed that low beams have this cut-off expecting the light to continue, however weakly, down the road. If circumstances permit use high beams whenever possible to see "down the road" By the way, I have had several cars with this "cut-off" on lows and have found them perfectly acceptable, even desireable, to illuminate the roadside in urban/suburban environments where high beams are the country or on a vacant highway use your highs to take up the illumination slack..
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    I find the headlights just fine on my Tucson.

    I understand that you cannot adjust the low beam separate from the high beam but you can adjust both together. My Tucson headlights are fine; if anything they are probably adjusted a little bit high. I would say adjust them a bit higher and you will be fine. And, of course, use the high beam whenever you can.
  • After introduced in 2004 as 2005 Tucson, 2006 Tucson was slightly changed mainly for interior. 2006 Tucson is nicer than 2005 Tucson. I don't think 2007 Tucson will be any different than 2006 Tucson. With everything being standard figures, only thing I see to be added in 2007 would be the power driver seat, probably only on Limited model. In November, you can get up to $1500 in rebates if you finance your vehicle through HMFC since you already own a Hyundai.

    Check following link for rebate details
  • dmuttdmutt Posts: 48
    The rumor mill for 2007 has the engine power increasing to around 197hp for the 2.7 six and 160hp for the 2.0 four. Both for the Tucson and KIA Sportage. Was on the KIA Sportage forum a couple months ago.
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    What I heard is that they would use the new 2.4 from the Sonata in the Tucson. Only speculations however.
  • delta4delta4 Posts: 138
    Replacing current 4 cyl with Sonata I4 is very certain as Hyundai will be moving to aggressively remain competitive with CRV and Rav 4. Although it will not be significant in horsepower as these models it will offer better fuel economy over existing Tucson. 2007 model with new I4 and increased hp in 2.7 V6 may appear after Spring of '06.

    Good catch on the upgrade to power driver seat in limited. Also look for auto locking doors and manual tilt/telescoping steering wheel as well.
  • Anyone know if there's a known method to program the keyless entry for Tucson? My husband has mis-placed (lost) his set of keys. I've found the exact key fob's on Ebay but doesn't include instructions. In looking at Hyundai's service site, it looks like it may be more involved than some models have been in the past. (Price to get new remote from dealer was quoted to me as ~ 170 while I found 2 key fobs on Ebay for 30 plus shipping. But I don't necessarily want to get them if I can't get them programmed)
  • wknjwknj Posts: 9
    what does the manual say about the timing belt and when it has to be changed....thanks
  • Typically other Hyundai cars require timing belt replacement at 60,000 miles (per the owners manual) but if you are a betting man wait a bit... they normally last longer. I changed out one on my sons 2000 Elantra at around 80,000 miles and it looked new.
  • Any rumors on when this engine will appear in the Tucson? My guess is that it will be in the 2nd qtr of 2006! Looking at buying but the only fault I can find with the current Tucson is its present 4 cylinder engine configuration which gives poor gas mileage and sluggish performance. From all my readings the 2.4L Theta will cure these problems with a 10-15% improvement in mpg while providing a good healthy increase in HP. Additionally, it will level the engine HP/torque playing field with the new RAV4, CRV7, Saturn VUE and the Dodge/Jeep Caliber/Compass. What are your best guesses??
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    3rd quarter as the 2007 model.
  • Maybe! Just seems that Hyundai is really discounting the Tucson right now. They might be doing a mid-model cycle, (i.e. 2007 model year) engine I-4/V6 update to compete with RAV4/6 and the Caliber/Compass releases. Funny how the Caliber/Compass will be using the Theta I-4 engine series. Now if Hyundai did the same release as Dodge with the I-4 Theta and CVT2 transmission then you would have a killer product.
  • wknjwknj Posts: 9
    Is it easy to get the the oil filter on the Tucson I heard it is very close to the exhuast?
    Also, I have been going crazy deciding if I want to buy this vehicle. I am a Japanese car guy but the Tucson seems a great bargan. Is this car a 'you get what you pay for'??
    Any reassuring thoughts would be helpful .
  • guyfguyf Posts: 456
    It's really a good vehicle. I went trough the same toughts before buying a 2001 Santa Fe and did not regret it one bit, coming from a 1997 CR-V.

    I bought a 2005 Tucson for my daughter to drive and it's really nice.
  • delta4delta4 Posts: 138
    The Tucson has received very good reviews throughout it's introduction and many consumers rate it very highly. Additionally for the '06 model year they have even made the interior even nicer with the addition of a limited model. For example some new features added are tire pressure control, height-adjustable center console, re-designed rear security cover. The ride is very smooth and quiet, fit-an-finish is excellent, plus+plus+.

    I highly recommend you take a test drive and do the research here on edmunds. There are plenty of consumer feedback that will help you make an informed decision.
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