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Comments
Hopefully the link will come out this time.
Yes all trucks can get stuck, which gives credit to the driver in many situations. But if you suck water, you will stop until you change fluids and or rebuild the engine. There seemed to be a very dry section of road to the drivers side of the mud. That is where you would have seen my Ranger.
reddog:
You will find your answer here: http://beseen2.looksmart.com/boardroom/j/21453
or here:
http://www.classicautoworld.com/details/612.htm
or here:
http://fordpower.hypermart.net/ets.html
Since you are think you know about Fords, tell me about the Ford 332cid V8? By the way the 351cid was the mainstay of Fords until the 390cid camd out. The 302 was, as I recall, a stroked or bored 289cid engine which was the Mustang engine for many years.
Also, tell me the displacment of the 1964 1/2 Mustang, ok? I know it, do you?
But then again, perhaps we should stay on topic.
mrwhippy2 (bud_light_dude) Thu 20 Jan '00 (07:13 PM)
You can easily and reliably get V8 power out of
the Tacoma engine with TRD's supercharger. Toyota
will even warranty it along with the factory 60k
mile warranty as long as you have them install it.
However, be cautious. I question the Tacoma's
transmission with the supercharger and towing. You
can easily put the truck into tow conditions that
the engine will do with power to spare, but the
transmission is shelled from too much torque and
strain.
Good luck
Looks like the majority of the shoppers are picking the tacomas after viewing this site.
test between the 4wd compact versions in the same weight class. Fact is that the institute regards
the frontal offset crash as the mainstay in assessing the structural crash worthiness.
I have in the past liked the 351 Cleveland engine over the Windsor.
Side impacts are an indicator of a "T bone" hit. You get a great deal less metal to protect you in those types of crashes. Knock on wood, I have had not had either of the crashes.
Yes agree, the Cleveland was better than the Windsor. Same size, 2 totally different engines.
There are a number of people that have put 302's in Rangers. There is a site or two dedicated to them. Guess they have a bit more disposable income than me.
For the record, the 332 was in my 59' and was the old truck engine used by Ford.
Oh yeah, the other engine offered in the Mustang was a 200ci I6. I actually had a version of that engine in my '81 Mustang. Coupled with inefficient, power-robbing smog equipment, a 1bbl carb, and an exhaust manifold that looked like straws coming out of the block, it was a real dog. At the time of my mustang ownership, I had neither the skills or funds to improve performance.
This room is the one of the busiest here at Edmunds. In 24 hours you could have over 20 posts easy.
But I have to say, after reading and thinking about all the we all have posted have we gotten anywhere?
Thanks for the crash test data. The Sun is shining here, a good day to wash the Ranger and get some of that good ole NW dirt off!
See you in the hills!
Its Canadian Shield country, with the oldest rock known to man, the Precambrian Shield. Its hilly, muddy, swampy terrain.
I also frequently visit my friends cabin near Pagosa Spring s Colorado. It's actually only a couple hours from Cspounsers place, except its on the west side of the divide.
I find the offroading in the northwoods to be more varied, and usually more difficult. There's alot more standing water, mud, ect.
Im a huge outdoorsman, so I like anywhere there is a bit of wilderness such as the northwoods, Colorado, Washington.
Listen to this from BOSSMAN at www.boss302.com:
"I think (key word think) Ford waited until the
very last moment and made the decision to scrap the
boss 302 program and go ahead with a limited run
Boss 351 using the standard 300 hp Cleveland
with solid lifters and higher compression. By
then, it is possible that Ford had actually begun
production of pieces that would eventually form the
71 Boss 302. We have all seen the pics
in Farr's book of the 71 Boss 302 decals. "I'm getting close....here's more:
"Ford went so far as to create finished print andoutdoor ads
touting the '71 Boss 302 -- that's how close itcame to regular
production. Considering how close it came toproduction, is it
possible a few Boss 302's actually escaped fromthe factory and
somehow ended up in the hands of a select few?
They made "BOSS" 351 engines for the 71's but Ican't find
any "BOSS 302's"(see below):The engine codes on the 71's, the 5th digit shows
it in the VIN.L-250 6 cylF-302 210HPH-351 240HPM-351 280HP (CJ)
R-351 330HP (BOSS)C-429 370HP (CJ)J-429 375HP (CJ-R)"and more:
"There were over 800 production EXCESS BOSS 302
motors sold thru Fred Jones Ford that were DIZEmotors slated for the 71 cars"
Now if I can just find my papers with my VIN......
Here's more on the 71 BOSS:
"Ford went so far as to create finished print and outdoor ads touting the '71 Boss 302 -- that's how close it came to regular
production. Considering how close it came to production, is it possible a few Boss 302's actually escaped from the factory and
somehow ended up in the hands of a select few...
They made "BOSS" 351 engines for the 71's but I can't find any "BOSS 302's"(see below):The engine codes on the 71's, the 5th digit showsit in the VIN.
L-250 6 cy
lF-302 210HP
H-351 240HP
M-351 280HP (CJ)
R-351 330HP (BOSS)
C-429 370HP (CJ)
J-429 375HP (CJ-R)
and more:
"There were over 800 production EXCESS BOSS 302 motors sold thru Fred Jones Ford that were DIZE motors slated for the 71 Mustangs"....
thats better....
So far it seems there were some "BOSS 302's" available in 71 but the question remains did the factory let them out with a few cars or could it have been a special order...
No, you were right the first time. The 64 1/2 Mustang had the 260 in it. A guy I went to school with had one. My brother had a 260 in a 63 Comet and we raced at at Great Meadows, NJ. My 61 Corvette and his 63 Comet.
Vince:
Don't get on spoog too bad, Ill only lacks big hills.
spoog:
You make it out with that Tacoma for hunting season last year?
Hey! Don't knock IL. I live there too. We've got corn fields, bean fields, and some other fields too. Need some more snow to fall, though. It makes for great fun with the toys.
Enjoy
-wsn
220cid V8?!?
Well, I think I made a mistake and was refering to the 352 preceeding the 390. Help me out here. . .
cthomp:
Well, Ill is also famous for ... Hillery...?
Ah well I will just settle for Colorado. This New Jersey boy knows what he likes.
Trust me, after you get use to the low humidity, ya DREAD going back to it.
Actually, all the cars I own, with the exception of the Ranger, run very badly when we take them to a humid area. The Chrysler was surging, chugging and just running very badly in Mo. but the Ranger ran fine in San Diego.
I use the 85 octane regular, it runs the best, in the Ranger 4.0. I think that is the same as the 87 octane in the rest of the country. I have tried the midgrade and in my opinion, get minimal increase in power and the gas mileage drops a mile or two. Have no idea why it does that, but it does. As long as it does not knock, I am happy and the truck is happy. I am coming up on 25K and as I understand it I MAY have to take the MAF sensor out and spray it down with carb cleaner to preclude missing/sputtering. Seems the wires in the sensor tend to attract crud. It seems to be running fine now. Have to clean the engine, lots of accumulated dust/dirt from being off-road.
Now I can scan just the pics I want to have scanned.
Make sure to disconnect your battery for 30mins after cleaning. This will reset the computer, and it will "relearn" how to run with optimal efficiency.
To anyone running low octane gas, make sure to run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through every couple of months or so. Low-grade gas also contains more impurities, which can clog fuel injectors and cause build-up in the rest of the fuel system.
I have also experimented with diferent grades of gas in my truck. I've found performance, efficiency, and how smoothly the engine runs to be best when running premium fuel. I've got no choice with my car, though. It's "premium fuel only".
I am really pleased with the mileage compared to my Wrangler.
Resetting your computer (disconnecting the battery for 30mins on a Ranger, don't know about a Tacoma) should allow you to take advantage of the benefits (power & efficiency) of premium fuel, if it is somehow decreasing performance when using it. The engine management system will adjust ignition timing for max power and efficiency as it "relearns".
Ditto on staying with major brands. You don't know what you're getting from the tanks of those "ma & pa" gas stations.
My bad on the hotter/colder low/high octane. I guess I had a brain fart and typed it backwards.
If it's pulling all of the time and you've had the front end realigned, are you sure that you're accounting for the crown of the road and/or crosswinds? I can almost psych myself into thinking that until I realize that the trees alongside the road are blowing all over the place.
Another thing you might do is make sure the air pressure is equal on the front tires (rears too actually). Then, check for any possible surface irregularities. I personally don't like the Firestones and will probably swamp them for some BF Goodrich AT's in the future.
1. Check for odd wear on the tires. If your out of align, they will wear.
2. Rotate tires every 5000 miles. See if the pulling continues.
3. If the tires are the Firestones, well, all bets are off. They serve one purpose, it puts some rubber between the rims and the road. My BF Goodrich tires are running GREAT. 11K and they hardly look like they have warn, the pieces of rubber between the lugs are still there.
OHHHH! A BENT or distorted rim could cause it to drift also. And a badly out of balance tire on one corner. Have them check the runout and balance.
Oil:
Well disagree with the ones who do not like it. I have run it since around 14K, have 24.5K now. It quieted the engine, runs a bit cooler, and as I understand it, is quite superior to regular oil causing much less engine wear (if there is wear).
I really like it in the engine and synthetic in the tranny, xfer case and differentials.
I talk on Ranger sites with people that have run synthetic for 20K, 30K up to 100K. No problems, minimal engine wear.
It is the way to go.
God, dating myself. . .
There is always the Ford 239cid flathead V8. . .
Had one of them too.
-wsn
If you try it, you SHOULD notice a change in any engine noise and also I noticed a slight drop in engine rpm to somewhere around 700 rpm at idle. As I recall it was around 900 rpm.
Can anyone answer my previous question on how to tell the differential size in a Toyota?
Checking out your kids Toyota, eh C?
Your best bet is to go out and run it in the hills for a bit. Also, take a tire off the front set and admire the superior engineering concerning the brakes.
Cthompson---
"If your truck is pulling during braking, there
might be some air bubbles in the hydraulic lines.
Make sure they bleed the brakes."
This isn't exactly common. It's also a sign of lack of quality.
"If it's pulling all of the time and you've had the
front end realigned, are you sure that you're
accounting for the crown of the road and/or
crosswinds? I can almost psych myself into
thinking that until I realize that the trees
alongside the road are blowing all over the place. "
Come on. What person can't tell the difference between their truck pulling and the wind pushing? Give me a break.
My new Tacoma has never done this, and my old Toy 22re never did it in 170k miles.
Another thing you might do is make sure the air
pressure is equal on the front tires (rears too
actually). Then, check for any possible surface
irregularities. I personally don't like the
Firestones and will probably swamp them for some BF
Goodrich AT's in the future
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/4_axles.html
If you have something useful or relevant to share about fixing a problem, please do. If not, put your hands in your pockets and keep them off the keyboard.
"Hi all-
I owned a pre-Ford Mazda (1990)--best little
truck I ever owned. I mean it all the abuse an 18
year-old could throw at it (including irregular
oil
changes-once a year if I remember correctly) and
seemed to ask for more!!! As a matter of fact, my
father still uses it as a work horse truck.
However....the 1999 I purchased four months
ago is a completely different story. The worst
part, I guess, is that I can not find another
idiot
stupid enough to buy it from me--even at $2,000
below what Edmunds recommends and $6,000 below
MSRP.
As a warning to other drivers of this piece
of junk, the driver's side airbag will go off when
making an 8mph left hand turn into a parking lot
if
you slide on sand and impact the curb with the
right front tire!!! Better yet...it will cause
over $2500 worth of damage to the INTERIOR of your
truck (steering wheel, horn, airbag, etc.)Not to
mention, it hurts like &*@#!!!! Been in
'bar-room'
brawls and received punches that did not compare
to that airbag!!! Apparently this is a real
problem for MAZDA because most of the parts needed
for repair are on national back-order!!! The
truck
has been in the repair shop 'awaiting parts' for
over a month now!!!
Also, could anyone enlighten me as to what
*bright* engineer decided it would be a good idea
to ‘hard-wire' the air-conditioning's compressor
into the vent control system... The stupid
compressor runs continuously even if the heat is
on
or if you try to turn on the vents only. Does
wonders for the gas mileage and horse-power not to
mention that it produces lukewarm air at best!!!
Does the B2500 even come with a suspension
system... I bet the old horse and buggy deals on
dirt roads provided a smother ride than my
*superiorly engineer* 1999 Mazda!!!
I WILL WALK BEFORE I WASTE MY MONEY ON
ANOTHER ONE OF THESE THING!!!!"
Ouchhhh, the quality really shines through...
applaud that post. In all honesty that post is unfair and unwarranted drivel that some are
predisposed to subject us to that vile rhetoric spewed from some belligerent juvenile.
Unfortunately, this doesn't exist. Every auto maker produces lemons. That guy appearantly had one, although some of his complaints seem to be inherent characteristics of his truck (ride, compressor switching on) that should have made themselves known that they weren't to his liking when test-driving the vehicle. Go figure, the airbag deploys when hitting something. I personally think that airbags (from any manufacturer) cause more injuries than they prevent. We should at least be able to disconnect them if we so choose, but it is against the law.
So, one "lemon" (if you would even call it that) in about 500,000 (ranger & mazda) trucks sold is supposed to make them all terrible? Hmmm... I think your sample might be just a bit limited to make any assumptions.
Lets not forget RedDogs when Ford tried to get away with putting the EScort brakes on the Full size 150's. My buddies who still work in the trades go in every 4 months for brake jobs. Either the rotors are always wearing, or something else is up. My good friend actually just sold his f150 and bought a Dodge Ram. So far, the Ram has proved far more reliable.
Oh! could not help but see this in the article:
"The 8-inch Toyota axles are strong and utilize a third-member setup, much like the 9-inch Ford."
Hmmm, Ford has an 8.8 inch. . .
reddog:
Where are you getting these un-named posts?
spoog:
I DID notice that, while the Toy has 6 lugs, they seem to be a bit smaller in diameter than the 5 I have. It is a nice truck, uses a bit of oil, but he likes it. Waiting for the back roads to open to try it out with my Ranger.
Reddog:
Well to answer one question, the climate control can be turned to the LEFT to get non-A/C. However I agree with the post that having the A/C on in many positions is strange. That is a trend in new cars, not just the Ford. I LIKE a bit of air circulation and if given a choice, like cooler air. Keeps you alert.
Just a thought. When he runs the A/C, turn that big knob from red to blue. Runs cooler that way. Mine is measured at about 39 degrees full cold. Spec is 40 degrees.
The other stuff, do not know what to say. I could go to some of the Toy rooms and post only the bad stuff said. That is EASY. I choose, however, to try to find info, good and bad, on both trucks.
Brakes:
One other thing. If a caliper is hanging, which could happen, the newer ones for most cars and trucks have a plastic cyl., and overheating could deform them. Just a guess.
If there is not adverse tread wear, the problem is not the align. I have beat my on mountain roads and the first alignment needed nothing and the second only required minor adjustments. And it runs very true. Going for it's third align next week I think.
Guess I got the only Ranger that has not had problems.
Got a question. Got a letter from American Bankers Insurance Co. for an extended warrenty. $715 takes the vehicle up to 6 years 100K. That seems much better than the one offered by Ford ($1,200). Covers the full drivetrain, engine, electrical, suspension, A/C, fuel delivery, 4X4 xfer case, water pump, valve seals, really the whole nine yards.
Anyone heard of it? Good deal/bad deal?
Just checked everything tonight. Going to change oil more than likely next weekend, coming up on 25K but still at full, no need to add any. The KKM filter is looking a bit dirty. Should check the paperwork and see if I should clean it too.
The major service is at 30K. You lube the drive shaft yoke, and a bunch more service.
Well trent, does that mean we can get a premium for a good running Ranger? I do not even have the chugging that sometimes comes with a dirty MAF. I have read that it could happen at 20-25K.
"extended warranty", the dealers would say "its not covered". The dealers hate it because the warranty work pays so little, so its even below "recall" work in terms of importance to the dealer and you have to fight them hard for even legitimate drivetrain or electrical problems. They always come up with the "its not covered", then "user abuse", take it to certified ......Bankers Insurance Co. shop, etc....
I think that posting articles like these for either the tacoma or ranger is nonsense. There will always be a lemon story that you can find on any vehicle on the internet.
Oh, and I have a life. Thanks for the advice.
Oh, I also perform all of my own maintenance. I plan on purchasing a Gibson cat-back real soon. $278 from www.carparts.com. Anybody know of a cheaper source (this is the price for aluminized, stainless is $375)?