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Hey guys, I am about to order a Double Cab Sport. New house has only a 19' long garage with 3' of it, a step up stoop up front. Does anyone know where measurements of the truck are located besides the overall length? Center of Front wheels to the front of the front bumper, center of the front wheels to the back of the back bumper for both the Double cab short and long bed? I prefer the long bed if it will fit in the garage!
Which dealership offered the extended warranty for $630?
"Thanks for the warranty info. You save me $290-. The best price I had found on the Toyota Platinum 7yr 75,000mile -0- deductible was $920- (which I had ordered a week ago and was able to cancel). The price for the same warranty at your recommended dealership was $630-. "
Has anyone mounted a toolbox on the bedrails behind the cab of '05 Tacoma? Is there a stake pocket under the plastic bedrail protector? If there isn't what holds the toolbox from sliding backwards?
Thanks Chris. I found that they will line up, the trick is to mount it using the middle pair of holes first, then attaching the ends. My problem is with the mashed threads in my truck body. I have a tap & die set on order that includes metric thread chasers, when it comes in I will try to clean the threads, and re-mount my boards with all the bolts!
Toyota sells cross-bed and side mount boxes, so it IS possible to install a toolbox:
If you crawl under your truck with a flashlight, you can see all the way up, to the bottom of the bed rails. I seem to remember there being a stake pocket under the protector, but I honestly can't remember. I have an Access Cab, the shorter box may be different.
I have a Lund that I put on. However my hood won't close now (not from the shield) but because the hood latch seems screwy. Any advice I can get on fixing it myself would be appreciated - I try to avoid the dealership at all costs...
The Lund does look good - just pop your hood and make sure it closes back first... :sick:
I had the same problem! You have to find something with a little leverage. I used a wooden handle of a hammer so I wouldn't tear anything. This allows you to push the tubes all the way in between the seats. It is impossibe to install these covers with your fingers. With the wooden handle I was able to push the tubes all the way down. After that they fit really tight and look like they are molded to the seat. Hope this helps
Hey bufal, you have the same exact truck as I (built 1/05 - no problems so far). I agree about the tires. Check your speedo, mine was reading 57.3 mph at 60 mph actual speed per GPS. I upgraded to 225 75r 15 tires on the same rims and now the speedo is dead on. They fit the truck much better as well. My motto is to not "over-tire" the 2.7L. You will take a hit on performance & mileage if you do. Let me know what mileage you are getting. I'm only getting about 20 mpg combined city/hwy. I can send you pix of my truck with the new tires. :shades:
Ordered some accessories from the dealer. They matched the best prices I found on the internet and did not charge for shipping. My comments...
bed mat - best item so far; keeps things from sliding around in the back and adds an extra bit of protection for the floor
ashtray - don't smoke but use this for coins/small items. I have the automatic with the two nice cup holders in front. The small rear cup holder is basically useless except for cans. This is where the ashtray sits.
large cleats - I didn't know these came four to a set so I ended up with more than I need at the moment. I used two for the bike mount, see below.
bike mount kit - this mounts on top of the large cleat. Holds the fork of a bike when you remove the front wheel.
small cleat - nice little cleats. I put these on the front rail to secure small items.
bed net - fits pretty good. I sometimes haul some lightweight items and this is an easy way to keep them from flying out.
cargo net - attaches to two of the large cleats. Used to keep small items from rolling around. Would fit better in the long bed. On my short bed, the wheel wells protrude into the bed. The net is the full width of the bed but it works ok.
spare tire lock - cheesy installation. It will work but not the greatest design.
wheel locks - must have ordered the wrong ones. The are quite a bit taller than the original lug nuts and look funny. Took them back off and will try to locate the correct ones.
tie down rings - for the front of the bed. Supposed to mount to the side of the bed near the front per instructions. Have not put them in yet. Will do that this week. Not really a good place to put these.
"tie down rings - for the front of the bed. Supposed to mount to the side of the bed near the front per instructions. Have not put them in yet. Will do that this week. Not really a good place to put these."
I also bought these, for strapping the nose of kayaks and canoes down, and to keep 10-12' long hardwood lumber from tipping off the tailgate. This required force from the floor, not the sides of the bed. The stress I'm applying isn't that great, I might be leery of them if I was say, holding a motorcycle vertical. I also would be reasonable when tightening ratchet straps, as some better made versions are capable of extreme force. I actually bent a steel utility trailer with one. :surprise:
I ignored the enclosed directions and found a more useful spot for them on the floor of the bed. Mine are near the corner drain holes. If you do this, make sure there is proper clearance for the backing plates on the underside of the bed. The fact that the bed can be drilled without inviting rust is pretty cool. The bed material is quite durable, my sharp drill bit produced long, fiber reinforced curls, similar to properly drilled mild steel.
overall length of the DC LB is 18ft5in with a wheel base of 11ft8in. i'm only getting mine next week, but from what i can figure, from the back bumper to the rear of the rear tires. From the front bumper to the back of the rear tires, it measures 15ft5in. It will fit if you back in. The back of the truck might be high enough to clear 2 steps, but no more. if you only have one step, it shouldn't be a problem. But that only leaves 6-7 inches to play with (split in 2), so you won't be able to use the door or walk around the truck. Actually, your garage door is probably 2-3 inches inside your garage, so there might be less room than that. you might want to consider making that step portable so you can move it when you want to get your truck in.
Just a small suggestion to you tire swappers out there, be reasonable with the width.
A few fortnights back, I put the widest tires that would fit the stock rims on my '85 Toyota 4x2. They LOOKED GREAT! However, the wide tires, mixed with a lightweight rear end, caused some extremely interesting moments in rain storms. The truck became extremely easy to hydroplane. It also developed snow traction and wet-road takeoff issues. Going back to a width close to the stock tire solved all of the issues.
That is a good point wooddorker. My main issue is not so much the width but the hight of the tire. I will definetly watch out for the width when I do change to new ones.
Hi - I got the TRD Ivan Stwart wheels a few weeks ago, and need to get tires to match. I want the largest tires I can reasonably fit on my Taco w/out a lift. Here are some specs:
Wheels: 16x8, Offset of +1, and Back Spacing of 4.5".
Truck: '05 PreRunner TRD Sport, DC, LB, w/ tow.
Tires: I'm hoping you guys/gals can tell me what size to get, but I'm seriously eyeing the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo.
PS. I'll have the TRD Sport tire & wheel package in exellent used condition for sale soon, if anyone is interested. hammaa at yahoo dot com. THANKS!!
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After my weekend of talking to tire guys I had decided to do exactly what you did just going to a bigger 15. Very interesting fact about the speedo being off before the bigger tires, sounds like they did put the wrong tires on it. The biggest concern I had was just what you said to much tire for the 2.7L. The pic would be great to show the banker (wife). Once she found out how much the rims we liked cost and the tires on top of that she kinda freaked. If she sees what just bigger tires do for the look I may be able to slip the rims (300 each) in with them.
I am only on my third tank of gas and figure it is still to early to get a mileage reading, but I do know it is better then my old 93 Cutlass V6. I am also in Canada and our gallon is bigger then yours (6 of yours = 5 of ours) so that changes the result some. When I get a few more miles on it I will do the calculation and let you know.
I just looked at a 4x2 AC cab 4 cyl. auto today in white. My first thought was man those tires and wheels look small. Otherwise I liked the truck. Best price was $19,105.00 + tax and lic. If I bought one I would look for some different wheels and tires. If you were replacing the tires and wheels what sizes would you suggest? 16" ? Same width as stock?
How did you calculate the correct tire size to eliminate the speedo error? I have a '99 that is about 9mph high with P225 75 R15s on it, I was told by the dealer that the size originally ordered with the truck was the P265 75R15 which according to their tire guide is about a 2" increase in height. I need to figure out the correct size before I go and buy another set of tires so I only do it once. Thanks for your help.
I would like to re-post this question one more time to see if any of you had any experiences with bench seat covers (if available) :shades: . Thanks in advance!
I guess I lucked out, I called a dealership in town, and he had one that a lady ordered, but backed out of the deal. (I guess her job changed) So I just picked it up on Friday. Black, double cab, V6, 6 speed, TRD 4x4. It is so nice! I've wanted to get a Tacoma for years now, and I think this is the best one so far! I have 250km on it so far, and it's down to half a tank, I hope the gas milage gets better, but oh well, the truck is fast!
I'm looking to replace my 94 Chevy S-10, RWD, 4.3 liter V6. I've used it for the past two years to pull a 16.5 foot, aluminum V-hull boat. I would imagine the total weight with trailer is under 1300 pounds. Will a Tacoma, 4WD, access cab with the OG (Off Road Package) be able to haul this boat? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Be smart, be frugal. 225 75r 15 tires are the magic bullet with the 2.7L platform. I went to Firestone and upgraded the size with the same Destination LE's that it came with. These tires are great. You won't be sorry. They are quiet, responsive and stick like glue in all conditions. I live in Florida and can tell you that they do not hydroplane! I sold the stock tires for $125 immediately, so my investment was only $200. Doing the speedo math, along with the cosmetic appearance, 225 75r 15 size should have been the stock size. Contact me if you want some pix. Also, very importantly, with the 2.7L you want to keep the tire weight and width limited as to not impact performance & economy. Stock 215 70r 15 Destination LE's are 23 lbs., 225 75r 15 Destination LE's are 30 lbs. If you going with 16" wheels, go 225 70r 16 or 235 65r 16. My preference would be the 225 70r 16. I wish I could find a set of 16" Highlander wheels for cheap! :shades:
I just found this forum, it looks great! I took delivery last week on an 05 Tacoma Prerunner access cab, indigo ink pearl/graphite, SR5 pkg. #3. I haven't even gone through the first tank of gas in it yet, but I love it!
The biggest problem I had was finding a dealer who was willing to get me the options I wanted without trying to tell me all the other options that he "just knew" I would need. Thankfully there are 5 Toyota dealerships within 50 miles or so of me, had to go to the 3rd one to get one who actually wanted to listen to me...but that's a whole other topic!
Anyway, as with any new vehicle I want to customize it a bit. I've already ordered ventvisors and a bug shield. I've been looking at running boards. I've looked through some of the postings about running boards vs. nerf bars etc., I'm wondering if anyone has pics posted of a Taco with the factory running boards so I can see just how they look. Also do they come painted, chromed, or what?
I apologize if this has already been discussed, I haven't had time to search all the posts yet.
I have the 05 AC with the V6 and manual. I have had no problems towing a 16 foot aluminum 40 horse. Hardly know it's back there. The 4x4 is handy for getting it out of the water. :shades:
ditto, I been having trouble contacting someone who can get me info on purchasing an Amsoil air filter for my truck (AC V6, 6-Speed TRD Offroad). only thing i can actually get a part number for is the K&N. anyone running something other than a K&N or stock setup?
At 70mph indicated it's one minute between mile markers, I'm going to try a GPS and check it at various speeds to be sure. Going between mile markers with the trip meter, it's 1.1 miles per mile. depending on how accurate the markers are. the GPS will be the true indicator. Thanks for the help.
The part number isn't posted yet for the Amsoil Air Filter but since it's the same engine as the 2004 4.0L V6 4-runner, they have that posted as AF1214.
Just to double-check, I went on the K&N site and found that the 2004 4-runner air filter # is the same # as the K&N I just put in my '05 Taco. I love the Amsoil stuff but I've always had good luck with the K&N air filters. Just installed it yesterday actually. I think it runs smoother but it's most likely all in my head.
Just got my skid plate, sill protectors today! Can't wait to blow this popsicle stand and mount that puppy. Besides it's gorgeous out! :shades:
I was looking at bed covers offered by SNUGTOP and came across "SL on a Tacoma Double Cab V Bed". I know Tacoma come in short bed (SB) and long bed (LB), anyone know what a V bed is? Here's the link to the site:
"I would imagine the total weight with trailer is under 1300 pounds. Will a Tacoma, 4WD, access cab with the OG (Off Road Package) be able to haul this boat? Any thoughts would be appreciated. "
You'll forget it's there.
I have the same truck & package and tow an enclosed utility trailer that's 1000 pounds empty. With a loaded weight of 3000 behind it, the truck dosen't flinch. Double check toyota.com, but I'm pretty sure the OG package sets the truck up to tow 6500 with trailer brakes. After pulling 3k a few times, I have no doubt this truck is honestly rated.
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MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I wanted the Revo as well. it was very well rated on tirerack.com and 1010tires.com. however, the dealers i checked with here in Northern Ontario indicated that the Revo's 4 ply construction wouldn't hold up on gravel roads or any offroading (or all the potholes in our streets this time of year!). They were also quite expensive in comparison to the BF Goodrich all terrains. Check with a few dealers before you purchase them.
"Since at least 95 Tacos, the antitheft kills the radio if the battery is not disconnected first."
I'm not so sure that's accurate for an '05. I've had my radio completely out of my '05 TWICE, without disconnecting the battery first, without problems. However, disconnecting the battery is usually a good idea.
Disconnecting the battery is always a good idea, and it'll save you a few fuses as well.
Just reading the posts on this I was wondering if maybe the transponder chip had anything to do with deactivating the radio. I know that anytime I did work with my BMW I always left the key in the ignition, not on but just in the ignition. If I didn't or the battery was just disconnected, I was always asked for my code given in the owner's manual to reactivate the radio.
It would be a nice security feature if the transponder had to be in the vicinity in order to take out the radio and have it work again. Not that there is much of a market for a stock Tacoma radio that won't fit into any other application.
Just to anyone interested in a skid plate, I got the new redesigned one yesterday. I haven't put it on yet, probably (hopefully) today. But just looking at the old picture on the toyota site, I can see what they did to stop the vibrating. The plate itself looks the same, it might actually be the same plate. But the change you can see is 2 allen wrench screws towards the top, front of the plate, these attach to 2 strong support arm/plates (about 6 inches long) behind the skid plate. Those arms run back and connect to the bolts that bolt to the frame. This should stop that vibrating problem as the front of the plate which takes the brunt of the wind is now reinforced. Looks nice, very strong and doesn't weigh that much at all, maybe 15 pounds. FYI
Has anyone ever tried to remove the tailgate & put it back before? Any advices? I plan to haul a 600lb lawn mower in the bed, but worry about the load capacity of the gate. Of course, trailer is another option but I'm curious... Thanks
DON'T DO IT ! The tailgate on these trucks are brutal. I bent mine from my snowmobile and I know someone else who bent theirs with their 4 wheeler. I complained to Toyota Canada and got no where. They did some research and said that the tailgate can only hold 200pds. HELLO, where would the consumer find this info when truck shopping or after they bought it. No salesman will tell you that you trucks tailgate can only hold 200pds. I was reading the review of the new Honda Ridgeline on MSN and it mentioned in their article about what the tailgate can hold (300pds), now that is smart.
My advice, take the tailgate off for the loading/unloading exercise.You cannot avoid simple physics - 200lbs/300lbs what the difference, either way tailgates are not designed as load-bearing members.
What's more, its has less to do with load and more to do with "moment" (lbs.ft or NM). Hold 2 bags of sugar with your arms next to legs and then do the same with your arms outstretched - you'll see the difference.
"They did some research and said that the tailgate can only hold 200pds."
I'm 6'1", 240, and stand on my gate on a regular basis, without using any special care. That sounds like a pretty conservative estimate.
Maybe it's how the weight is applied, and how the vehicle is driven with the weight on the gate?
I'd probably remove the gate if loading a quad or riding mower, as the weight would end up concentrated way out near the tip while loading. I also probably would not drive the truck with that kind of weight on the open gate. When I move my own wide cut, walk-behind mower, I do it with a trailer, simply because it's so much easier to load on a low deck.
My Tacoma finally arrived at the dealership after 14 weeks.
I haven't taken ownership yet. I want to talk to the sales manager first to dispute one item on the purchase agreement. I'd like to hear what others think about this, and to warn other shoppers to watch out for this.
There is an item described as "THEFT DETERRENT/REGISTRATION" for which they are charging $288+tax. My understanding is that this item includes window etching plus some insurance coverage should the vehicle be stolen and not recovered. I don't want to pay for this extra insurance coverage. I already pay too much money for auto insurance and I don't want or need this extra theft insurance.
What I'm curious about is whether the "window etching" part of this has any value or merit? I have done some reading and I realize that I could get the etching done by a third party or purchase a kit and do it myself for probably less than $50. But I'm wondering whether there is really any value to doing this anyway? Or should the vehicle already have enough VIN identification when it leaves the factory to make this extra window etching pretty much useless? Do some vehicles come from the factory with the VIN etched in the window glass? If so, is the Tacoma in this category?
Unfortunately, in the excitement of the purchase, I missed this detail when I signed the purchase agreement, and it didn't occur to me until now to question this charge. I don't know if there is any chance of me getting them to drop this charge given that I've already signed the purchase agreement, but if they are a reputable dealer then they wouldn't be forcing this on me. I do know that if they don't drop this charge and I accept delivery of the vehicle that I will never take the vehicle back to this particular dealership for service, so it will be their loss in the end. That's my only consolation at this point.
I ordered a Prerunner w/4-cyl.-5M a couple of weeks ago over the phone after getting the price (base+options) that I wanted - approx. $200 over Edmunds invoice number. After reading this message I wonder if I did the right thing by securing my order with a credit card over the phone ($500). I did not sign a purchase agreement. Any comments or suggestions from experienced buyers would be greatly appreciated. :confuse: ">
Thanks for the thoughts and/or information concerning my post. Is there anything I need to specify when ordering the truck...ie...heavy duty radiator and or oil/transmission fluid cooler?
Exactly why I'm ordering it with 4WD. The S-10, I've been towing it with, has done well except for getting it out of icy or mud slicked boat ramps. Thanks for the thoughts.
Comments
"Thanks for the warranty info. You save me $290-. The best price I had found on the Toyota Platinum 7yr 75,000mile -0- deductible was $920- (which I had ordered a week ago and was able to cancel). The price for the same warranty at your recommended dealership was $630-. "
I have a tap & die set on order that includes metric thread chasers, when it comes in I will try to clean the threads, and re-mount my boards with all the bolts!
If you crawl under your truck with a flashlight, you can see all the way up, to the bottom of the bed rails. I seem to remember there being a stake pocket under the protector, but I honestly can't remember. I have an Access Cab, the shorter box may be different.
The Lund does look good - just pop your hood and make sure it closes back first... :sick:
bed mat - best item so far; keeps things from sliding around in the back and adds an extra bit of protection for the floor
ashtray - don't smoke but use this for coins/small items. I have the automatic with the two nice cup holders in front. The small rear cup holder is basically useless except for cans. This is where the ashtray sits.
large cleats - I didn't know these came four to a set so I ended up with more than I need at the moment. I used two for the bike mount, see below.
bike mount kit - this mounts on top of the large cleat. Holds the fork of a bike when you remove the front wheel.
small cleat - nice little cleats. I put these on the front rail to secure small items.
bed net - fits pretty good. I sometimes haul some lightweight items and this is an easy way to keep them from flying out.
cargo net - attaches to two of the large cleats. Used to keep small items from rolling around. Would fit better in the long bed. On my short bed, the wheel wells protrude into the bed. The net is the full width of the bed but it works ok.
spare tire lock - cheesy installation. It will work but not the greatest design.
wheel locks - must have ordered the wrong ones. The are quite a bit taller than the original lug nuts and look funny. Took them back off and will try to locate the correct ones.
tie down rings - for the front of the bed. Supposed to mount to the side of the bed near the front per instructions. Have not put them in yet. Will do that this week. Not really a good place to put these.
I also bought these, for strapping the nose of kayaks and canoes down, and to keep 10-12' long hardwood lumber from tipping off the tailgate. This required force from the floor, not the sides of the bed. The stress I'm applying isn't that great, I might be leery of them if I was say, holding a motorcycle vertical. I also would be reasonable when tightening ratchet straps, as some better made versions are capable of extreme force. I actually bent a steel utility trailer with one. :surprise:
I ignored the enclosed directions and found a more useful spot for them on the floor of the bed. Mine are near the corner drain holes. If you do this, make sure there is proper clearance for the backing plates on the underside of the bed. The fact that the bed can be drilled without inviting rust is pretty cool. The bed material is quite durable, my sharp drill bit produced long, fiber reinforced curls, similar to properly drilled mild steel.
A few fortnights back, I put the widest tires that would fit the stock rims on my '85 Toyota 4x2. They LOOKED GREAT! However, the wide tires, mixed with a lightweight rear end, caused some extremely interesting moments in rain storms.
Thanks.
Wheels: 16x8, Offset of +1, and Back Spacing of 4.5".
Truck: '05 PreRunner TRD Sport, DC, LB, w/ tow.
Tires: I'm hoping you guys/gals can tell me what size to get, but I'm seriously eyeing the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo.
PS. I'll have the TRD Sport tire & wheel package in exellent used condition for sale soon, if anyone is interested. hammaa at yahoo dot com. THANKS!!
Just make your email address in your member profile "public" - only members can see it. When you post your email address, it is viewable by the entire internet, including spam bots.
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After my weekend of talking to tire guys I had decided to do exactly what you did just going to a bigger 15. Very interesting fact about the speedo being off before the bigger tires, sounds like they did put the wrong tires on it. The biggest concern I had was just what you said to much tire for the 2.7L. The pic would be great to show the banker (wife). Once she found out how much the rims we liked cost and the tires on top of that she kinda freaked.
If she sees what just bigger tires do for the look I may be able to slip the rims (300 each) in with them.
I am only on my third tank of gas and figure it is still to early to get a mileage reading, but I do know it is better then my old 93 Cutlass V6. I am also in Canada and our gallon is bigger then yours (6 of yours = 5 of ours) so that changes the result some. When I get a few more miles on it I will do the calculation and let you know.
I like this truck more every time I drive it.
Jim
I have a '99 that is about 9mph high with P225 75 R15s on it, I was told by the dealer that the size originally ordered with the truck was the P265 75R15 which according to their tire guide is about a 2" increase in height. I need to figure out the correct size before I go and buy another set of tires so I only do it once.
Thanks for your help.
Stock 215 70r 15 Destination LE's are 23 lbs., 225 75r 15 Destination LE's are 30 lbs. If you going with 16" wheels, go 225 70r 16 or 235 65r 16. My preference would be the 225 70r 16.
I wish I could find a set of 16" Highlander wheels for cheap!
:shades:
The biggest problem I had was finding a dealer who was willing to get me the options I wanted without trying to tell me all the other options that he "just knew" I would need. Thankfully there are 5 Toyota dealerships within 50 miles or so of me, had to go to the 3rd one to get one who actually wanted to listen to me...but that's a whole other topic!
Anyway, as with any new vehicle I want to customize it a bit. I've already ordered ventvisors and a bug shield. I've been looking at running boards. I've looked through some of the postings about running boards vs. nerf bars etc., I'm wondering if anyone has pics posted of a Taco with the factory running boards so I can see just how they look. Also do they come painted, chromed, or what?
I apologize if this has already been discussed, I haven't had time to search all the posts yet.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
It seems that the stock tire size you mention (265 75r 15) would be about right.
:shades:
Thanks for the help.
Just to double-check, I went on the K&N site and found that the 2004 4-runner air filter # is the same # as the K&N I just put in my '05 Taco. I love the Amsoil stuff but I've always had good luck with the K&N air filters. Just installed it yesterday actually. I think it runs smoother but it's most likely all in my head.
Just got my skid plate, sill protectors today! Can't wait to blow this popsicle stand and mount that puppy. Besides it's gorgeous out! :shades:
SNUGTOP
You'll forget it's there.
I have the same truck & package and tow an enclosed utility trailer that's 1000 pounds empty. With a loaded weight of 3000 behind it, the truck dosen't flinch. Double check toyota.com, but I'm pretty sure the OG package sets the truck up to tow 6500 with trailer brakes. After pulling 3k a few times, I have no doubt this truck is honestly rated.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
by the way, is the warranty "bumper to bumper" with $0 deductible ?
I'm not so sure that's accurate for an '05. I've had my radio completely out of my '05 TWICE, without disconnecting the battery first, without problems. However, disconnecting the battery is usually a good idea.
Just reading the posts on this I was wondering if maybe the transponder chip had anything to do with deactivating the radio. I know that anytime I did work with my BMW I always left the key in the ignition, not on but just in the ignition. If I didn't or the battery was just disconnected, I was always asked for my code given in the owner's manual to reactivate the radio.
It would be a nice security feature if the transponder had to be in the vicinity in order to take out the radio and have it work again. Not that there is much of a market for a stock Tacoma radio that won't fit into any other application.
Just wondering, no idea for sure.
Thanks
The tailgate on these trucks are brutal. I bent mine from my snowmobile and I know someone else who bent theirs with their 4 wheeler. I complained to Toyota Canada and got no where. They did some research and said that the tailgate can only hold 200pds. HELLO, where would the consumer find this info when truck shopping or after they bought it. No salesman will tell you that you trucks tailgate can only hold 200pds. I was reading the review of the new Honda Ridgeline on MSN and it mentioned in their article about what the tailgate can hold (300pds), now that is smart.
What's more, its has less to do with load and more to do with "moment" (lbs.ft or NM). Hold 2 bags of sugar with your arms next to legs and then do the same with your arms outstretched - you'll see the difference.
Good luck in any case.
I'm 6'1", 240, and stand on my gate on a regular basis, without using any special care. That sounds like a pretty conservative estimate.
Maybe it's how the weight is applied, and how the vehicle is driven with the weight on the gate?
I'd probably remove the gate if loading a quad or riding mower, as the weight would end up concentrated way out near the tip while loading. I also probably would not drive the truck with that kind of weight on the open gate. When I move my own wide cut, walk-behind mower, I do it with a trailer, simply because it's so much easier to load on a low deck.
I haven't taken ownership yet. I want to talk to the sales manager first to dispute one item on the purchase agreement. I'd like to hear what others think about this, and to warn other shoppers to watch out for this.
There is an item described as "THEFT DETERRENT/REGISTRATION" for which they are charging $288+tax. My understanding is that this item includes window etching plus some insurance coverage should the vehicle be stolen and not recovered. I don't want to pay for this extra insurance coverage. I already pay too much money for auto insurance and I don't want or need this extra theft insurance.
What I'm curious about is whether the "window etching" part of this has any value or merit?
I have done some reading and I realize that I could get the etching done by a third party or purchase a kit and do it myself for probably less than $50. But I'm wondering whether there is really any value to doing this anyway? Or should the vehicle already have enough VIN identification when it leaves the factory to make this extra window etching pretty much useless?
Do some vehicles come from the factory with the VIN etched in the window glass?
If so, is the Tacoma in this category?
Unfortunately, in the excitement of the purchase, I missed this detail when I signed the purchase agreement, and it didn't occur to me until now to question this charge. I don't know if there is any chance of me getting them to drop this charge given that I've already signed the purchase agreement, but if they are a reputable dealer then they wouldn't be forcing this on me. I do know that if they don't drop this charge and I accept delivery of the vehicle that I will never take the vehicle back to this particular dealership for service, so it will be their loss in the end. That's my only consolation at this point.
Buyer beware.
Thanks for the thoughts and/or information concerning my post. Is there anything I need to specify when ordering the truck...ie...heavy duty radiator and or oil/transmission fluid cooler?
DL
Exactly why I'm ordering it with 4WD. The S-10, I've been towing it with, has done well except for getting it out of icy or mud slicked boat ramps. Thanks for the thoughts.
DL