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Several people were complaining about it on another forum, with one of them attributing it to heavy items like the fuel tank and battery being on the drivers side (if so, still not acceptable). I plan on measuring it with a near empty gas tank (the 7/8" lean was with a full tank) and see if it makes a difference.
I haven't pursued it with the local Toyota dealer yet as I was hoping to 'help them' with the diagnosis with information from other Tacoma owner's with the same problem. So far, the only response that Toyota gave to one guy was that the lean was 'within specification' - a euphemism for 'yes, we screwed up but not so much that we think we need to fix it'.
After I take it in, I will post what the local Toyota dealer says.
I didn't drive any Tacoma's without the off road package so I can't give a totally informed opinion, but I do have a DC 4x4 shortbed with the off road package and I don't think it rides rough at all. Somewhat firm, but not at all uncomfortable on a long drive. And definitely better than my old 82 Toyota 4x4 with the solid front axle. A friend has a new Ford F250 (3/4 ton and not the best comparison either..), but he thinks my Tacoma rides much better than his Ford. I would drive a truck with and without the package one after the other and decide (and I agree with you about the hood scoop on the sport pkg).
The sport seats are great, with quality fabric. So good in fact, that I decided to cover them up with Toyota front seat covers (toyotapartspeople.com) to protect them.
I also got the tow package. Although I was a bit miffed that it didn't have a trailer brake controller, it does have a nice plug-in for one under the dash, which made it a snap to install the brake controller myself. And the tow pkg. does come with some really good stuff like auxiliary engine oil and trans fluid cooler, plus the receiver hitch/7 pin connector, HD alternator and battery. This stuff must work pretty well as I just towed a travel trailer weighing an estimated 5,200 lbs up to 7,500 elevation (@45 MPH)without any problems. No engine overheating, or hot fluid smells of any kind.
One thing you might check before buying: My truck leans almost an inch to the left when viewed from the rear (ie., low on the drivers side). It doesn't sound like a lot, but it's more noticeable than it sounds and I plan to take it to the dealer soon to see what they say about it. Others with the same problem say it might be due to the gas tank and battery both being on the left side. Hmmmm, but other trucks don't lean and I'm sure some have the same heavy items to one side.
Best of luck, and let us know what you decide..
Also, where did you measure the 1 inch difference? An inch at the rear bumper is alot different than an inch infront of the rear tire.
Since both questions involve totally subjective answers,a nd involve significant expense, DRIVE THEM YOURSELF.
My answer is "slightly", and "yes", but your interpretation and body makeup are bound to be different. The larger, heavier, high-sidewalled tires on the TRD Off-Road also handle slightly different than smaller tires.
I measured the left/right bed difference with the tailgate down, right about where the cable is bolted into the tailgate (when I checked it a while back, I measured the same distant from the bottom edge on both sides but it was close to this location). It measured about 29" from the left side to the ground, and 30" on the right. I know it doesn't sound like much, but it sure looks worse than a 1" difference. Since I've read here, and on another forum about people complained of the same thing, I know the problem isn't unique with my truck. The bottom line is that it just looks hokey, like it's been in a rear-end accident or something. And not the sort of thing you would expect from Toyota.
The sr5 drives a bit choppy, and as most stock Toyota trucks, rebound on the suspension lags quite a bit, meaning the wheels dont contour the road as well.
The TRD Off-Road seemed stiffer than the sr5 and more sure-footed. I could definitely feel the benefits of progressive-rate springs soaking up the little stuff.
The TRD Sport seemed to have the stiffer suspension of the three, and this translated to vibrations being felt through the cabin. I don't understand why one would want a sport tuned truck with a 9+ inch ground clearance.
My recommendation is to get the TRD Off-Road, or the sr5 if the TRD options are too pricey. Though, this is very subjective, I drove an sr5 prerunner, 4x4 Access Cab TRD sport, 4x4 Access Cab TRD OR and settled on buying a 4x4 DC Off-Road without ever driving one.
I'm glad I'm not the only one. But then again, people put 22 inch+ wheels and 35-40 aspect ratio tires on 4WD SUVs... :confuse:
Now, a drastically lowered 2WD sport truck! :shades:
I'm looking for a hard top, and would like for it to be easily removable, and possibly attach to the bed rails without requiring modification. I don't know if that is possible or not.
I'd also consider one of those roll tops that is more like a hard top when it's rolled out, but I can't remember who makes them.
Anyone got some names I should check into? Thanks!
I have one on my DC LB and really like it. It attaches to the bed rails at the front and where the struts are about half way down the sides. With the cover off, you can still use the rails. Taking it off is about a 5 minute process, it does take two people, and it hangs on the wall.
Only real problem, if it is a problem, is that it only comes in black and isn't really paintable - it has a textured surface.
HTH
Glen
The Undercover top looks really nice. I downloaded the installation guide, and it looks fairly easy to install.
Black isn't a big deal for me, my truck is silver, so I've been pretty much buying black items to go with it.
One thing I haven't seen yet, is a hard top that allows you to mount a bike rack to the top of it. Do these exist? It might be a pain for me to have to remove this top to be able to take my mountain bike places. I wonder if something is made specifically for the Undercover top?
I also like the black cover. It looks good on my Impulse Red DC and goes really nice with the Westin tube steps I put on (talk about an easy installation).
I don't know if there's a rack that goes on top of the cover. I got the towing package, so I'd get a bike rack that fits into the receiver if I were to start hauling my bike around - I generally just lay it in the bed and close the cover for short trips.
Cheers,
Glen
So far, this seems to be the best looking, most flexible, easiest to install hard bed cover available.
I did some searching around, and it doesn't seem that there are standard, non-destructive bike racks for these covers. Basically, it requires you to buy a bed cover bike rack mount, which is basically a bolt-on accessory, which requires you to drill holes in the bed cover, and therefore void the warranty.
I'm not sure it's worth voiding the warranty, and the possibility that it could leak near the hole, to install something like this.
I haven't decided exactly what to do about this situation, but your hitch suggestion is probably the easiest solution. If I could remove the cover by myself, then it would be a now brainer. However, I'm pretty sure it would require two people to do so.
Do you have a picture you could post of your cover? I haven't found many pictures with the Toyota online.
http://toyotanation.com/forum/t137474.html
I've been away from this board for some time,but I now have a problem.My right tail light lens was broken,does any one know how to remove it,before I start removing bolts.Also,anyone have an idea what a new lens might cost?
Also, don't talk smack about Nissan either. The last one I owned was a Datsun, but they are every bit the quality of Toyota.
If the freaking truck looks like it's leaning to the left, and measurements from the left & right side of the bumper and tailgate (which are not connected to the same place) show that it is, isn't that enough - not to mention others have complained of the same problem?
What is all the talk about LED's? Is there a light built into the lid or something? If so, how is it hooked up?
The light is built right into the rear most cross member and gives off a surprising amount of light - good enough to see what's in the bed. The only thing that you need to do is remember to turn it off before you close the lid.
Cheers,
Glen
For some reason, I forgot that my truck came with the roof rack already installed (for some reason, they didn't include it in the invoice either, but I didn't tell them that). So, if I really want to be able to keep the cover on most of the time, I can just get a bike rack for the roof rack. Although, it's quite a stretch to put something up there...
I'm probably better off going with the hitch mount version, plus it's easier to load and unload.
Those look pretty nice too, and looks like I could find one for about $560 for the DC SB. I think the Undercover has a better chance at being waterproof, but this is interesting. How do they waterproof the hinges?
Also, does it require drilling, and/or removal of the bed rail system?
Too bad these guys don't make one for the new Tacoma's.
www.peragon.com
The full length hinges are engineered water tight.
The bed rail does not have to be removed. The Fold-A-Cover comes as a kit with two long rails that adhere to the top of the bed's flange from cab to tailgate. The cover mounts to these accessory rails with aircraft aluminum hinges and stainless steel bolts. It's all a mechnical lock design, no drilling involved.
I feared that any leaking would be either at the bed behind the cab where the first door rests, or along the raised tail gate where the fourth door rests. Eachof those contact areas involve a full length flexible flange gasket which turned out to be water tight in both driving rain and high pressure wash. Keep in mind that my long bed takes the four panel design. Your double cab is the short bed and may be three folding panels.
Thanks,
Glen
So, looks like it's back to the Fold-A-Cover or the Undercover. Thanks for all the comments on the Fold-A-Cover. That helps out a lot.
The only negative to just getting the solid Undercover, is for spontaneous hauling. If you didn't plan to go out and buy a refrigerator, you'd have to drive home first, remove the cover, and drive back. With the Fold-A-Cover, you could fold it up, and be done...
Is the footman's loop (the loop installed on the tailgate) necessary if you have a lock on your tailgate? I asked about it, and didn't get a straight answer. Basically, I'm wanting to know if it is used as a structural support of any kind, or if it's just for tailgate locking purposes.
I just don't want to drill holes in anything. I am not really fond of having to use adhesive to attach the accessory rails, but it appears that's the only choice I have, for a folding bed cover.
I'm going to try and sort through them again this weekend. With so many good choices, it's hard to eliminate them, and pick just one. The really nice thing about the Peragon that I like, is that if you needed to remove it for some reason, it would leave no trace that it's been installed, unlike some of the others. Not that that will be an issue, but what if something breaks, and they stop making it, and you have to install something else?
Brought it to dealership for 15K maint. and noticed that they set the tire pressure on all four tires to 34 psi.
What then is the correct tire pressure. I read on some posts in this forum that somebody was setting it to 34 to get better gas mileage. I noticed that my braking distance increased with 34 psi. Please advise.
Thanks.
By increasing the psi, you are decreasing the amount of surface area that the tire touches the road. Logically, less tire that touches the road, less resistance, better gas mileage.
Like the Michelin commercial (I believe) used to say, "brakes don't stop your car, tires do." The less surface area, the less friction and rolling resistance.
So ask yourself what's more important? Improved gas mileage and handling or having to remember to start braking 5 feet earlier?
I run all my tires at 34 psi. The handling gets really sloppy when the tires are inflated below that. I get a ton of "highway wandering". The slight gas mileage increase is a bonus. I haven't noticed a difference in braking distance but I can't say I've really put it to the test either. Scientifically, your observations make sense.
Play with the pressure a little bit. Maybe a happy medium would work better for you.
Somebody also posted that it is bad to set it to something other than the factory suggestion because the wheels themselves are rated to what toyota has stated on the driver's door jamb. Is there truth to this?