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Comments
PS.She got me the Door entry guards too,the 4 piece set part listed #50.....I'm a lucky guy.
Allen-
You can avoid having to worry about whether the tranny problems are endemic or not by getting one with the excellent 5 speed transmission. More power, better gas mileage, one less thing to break (on any vehicle, not just Chrysler Dakotas).
.02
-Joe J.
You may have had a very special setup on your Chevy.I suspect you were experiencing a NORMAL open differental.... just think what locking the
fronts would do to the steering? (The front axle would most likely BREAK on dry pavement)
For vitually ALL 4WD vehicles, there is an open differential in the front. An LSD or 'locker' in the front would create an unsafe condition.
(BTW... some hard-core 4WD systems may LOCK all 4 wheels but this is for off-road use ONLY)
Thanks.
robert
Bookitty
As to molded trays for the front, a bit of fishing around with the aftermarket people should turn up what you want. I purchased molded front trays for my Ram back in '95... Can't recall who the manufacturer was, but they're very nice units that saved a LOT of wear and tear on the carpeting, plus they were "dished" so that any water would be retained... Of course, the residual water would evaporate over time.
Stop scaring me! My Quad (with 5.9) is scheduled to go on the line tomorrow!
On day 2 of owning the Quad, I heard a whinny noise from the tranny. On day 3, I made an appt with the dealer to check out the noise. I went in on Day 4. They told me they couldnt hear anything.
I went down to the dealer on my lunch hour and drove with the tech. I pointed out the noise to him and he said, "Oh that.... that's normal." I was upset that this pretty loud whinny noise was considered normal for a new truck.
I test drove a different brand new truck they had on the lot and it made the same noise. This is a warning to any prospective Quad owners, be prepared for a tranmission whine ... at least in the automatic.
My dealer had no response to the problem other than they would record my complaint. Get used to hearing the term "characteric of the vehicle".
Now, I'm thinking maybe I should have gotten the Tundra. Does anyone have any further info on this? The Jeep topic seems to have a few people with the same issue.
-scp
Thanks
Jeff
Nifty Products Main Page
http://www.niftyproducts.com
Nifty Products Application Guide
http://www.niftyproducts.com/products/catchall/f-2pc.htm
Enjoy.....
PS does anyone here have the Embroidered Floormats from the MOPAR Acc book in their Quad...Just interrested to know if the 2-piece rear set has the embroidered ramshead logo like the 1-Piece clubcab model they show in the book..
Chad
Would you email me with instructions ? I couldnt
get your email address from your profile.Mine is
Skimmilk@systec.com
Thanks ,Johnboy9
I am going to check it out now. See if I can spend some more$$$You only live once.(I think)
Allen-
It makes a high pitched whine as you accelerate at about the same loudness as the motor itself. Its particularly loud the harder you accelerate. The dealer said this was "characteristic of the vehicle" and they did indicate that it was a transmission noise.
I had owned Toyota and Honda cars before buying the QC and just hadnt ever heard a noise like that before when accelerating.
A buddy of mine suggested that the sound was characterics of all high-torque V8's but of course a noise is very subjective so its hard for anyone ... other than the people who have driven with me to know what I'm talking about.
I love it otherwise. Almost bought the Tundra instead but I have already had so many instances where its been great to have all that room in the back that I'm really glad to to have the QC regardless of the transmission noise.
-scp
I'm interested in the fold-a-cover, does anyone know how easy it is to remove the panels compleatly and how heavy are they as I think they are hinged together? Also seems like a lot of 5 spd manuals are ordered by the people using this site. My dealer made me put extra down because of unusual trany! Large dealer with only 2 5spds on the lot in base strippers.
I have the Dodge fold-a-cover which I installed myself. You can remove the cover in about 2 min. wtih a 5/16 nut driver execpt for the
side rails are pop-riveted to the bed on each end.
The cover weighs less than 50lbs. All sections are
together can not seperate from each other.
I was priced anywhere from $199-$299 not installed
(no need to pay $30-$60 for a 35min job you can do yourself while blindfolded)
I ended up taking the $199 price not only because they were the cheapest but believe it or not they had them in STOCK...
I went with the Black Powdercoated ones for my Flame Red 4x4 Sport..If anyone is interrested let me know and ill scan the instruction sheet and snap a few pics of my truck with the old Digital camera and email them to you...Just email me at gchadsmith@cs.com .....
By the way...My dog LOVES the quad....I had the day off and me and my pup went crusing all morning while my wife was at work...Keep Quadding
Chad
out in front of me. It seems that Dodge has a well
built safe truck!
Has any one installed the body color side moulding from the Durango on there Quad. How did it work out? How much did it cost?
Step 1: remove the battery
Step 2: locate the relay marked a/c compressor and remove it (in the relay box next to the battery)
Step 3: unbolt/unclip the relay box. remove the lower cover then turn the box upside down. There will be 4 wires going to the slot where the relay was. The blue wire with a red stripe is the ground feed. (VERY CAREFULLY)Cut this wire about 3" from where it enters the
relay slot. strip and install high quality butt splices on both ends.
Step 4: remove the instrument trim cover (CAREFULLY PULL IT OFF) remove the lower dash panel under the steering wheel (just a few screws). The switch can be installed where ever you wish but a push on/off switch works well mounted between the radio and climate control, or another place is next to the power port but that location is difficult to see if you have an automatic due to the location of the selector lever when it is in drive.
Step 5: carefully run 2 18 gage wires from the relay box through the firewall grommet into the interior and to the switch location. BE VERY CAREFUL TO RUN THE WIRES ALONG THE EXISTING WIRE PATH AND YOU WILL HAVE A VERY CLEAN PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION. You can punch a very small hole in the firewall gromett (just big enough to push the wires through, then seal with clear silicone).
Step 6: strip and splice the wires at the relay box. DO A PROFESSIONAL JOB HERE! Then install the relay box bottom cover and be sure not to pinch any wires. re-mount the relay box, snap into place and install the retaining bolt. re-install the a/c compressor relay and relay box cover.
Step 7: CAREFULLY drill the location for the switch and install the wires to it. If you use a lighted switch there is no need to run a ground to it. Just use the terminals marked power and load.
Step 8: install the battery and test.
You can now choose to run the compressor or not. I do advise the use of the compressor at least once a week for at least 15 mins to keep the system lubricated and to keep all the seals happy. This switch setup works great. I hope it works for anyone who installs one (should have been installed from the factory) Good luck!
1) The engine computer (ECU) is not 'aware' that you have bypassed its command to engage the compressor.
2)The electric radiator fan will NOT be affected by this method. It will continue to run. (It makes more noise than the engine while idling.)
3)I suspect that the IDLE will still be increased because the ECU expects the AC compressor to be running.
4)You may inadvertently cause the ECU to log a 'problem' in its memory because it knows it has asked for the compressor to run but can sense it not running. (This may have repercussions later)
========
I have been researching this 'problem' all winter while waiting for the weather to warm up. (Just another month now;-) I have read the manual on how to access the proper wire. I have scrutenized the wiring diagrams and understand the ECU operation.
What do I suggest?
Go the 'source' of the problem and install the switch in the wire that 'commands' the ECU to enable the 'AC system' (Not just the compressor). Grounding the wire turns the AC system ON and opening the wire turns it OFF.This wire is found going into the knob that controls the airflow (FEET, HEAT, BI-LEV...etc) Just cut the wire and put a switch between it and ground.... DONE!
Does anyone have any info on the 2001s, yet? It looks like it will be December or January before I can get one. I have heard of possible engine changes?
Your news of a 4.8L replacement is interesting! Of course, the logical question is that if a 4.8L engine is indeed the up-and-comer, what's in the cards for the 4.7L motor???
I'm E-mailing you now. Have some questions need some pictures too..I've been waiting since 4/11/00. A know I'm getting the run around.
Allen-
check out this place. I ordered 2 stepper nerfs for my Quad two weeks ago. Installation was a breeze. They look great too!
Was it delivered with a full tank of fuel? Did your salesperson run through the operational aspects of the vehicle? Were you satisfied when you drove the truck away that you knew the operational aspects?
I ask these questions ONLY because my job is in education and training... And because the dealerships are "supposed" to maintain certain minimum standards is the area of customer service.
Any and all input will be appreciated!
WHERE WERE YOU ALL WHEN I NEEDED YOU????
I hope "badassbob" sends me those pictures,maybe it will calm me down seeing them on a Quad like mine..Sorry just venting a little.
Allen-
by locks in the first section behind the cab and the last section that locks to the tailgate plus
there there are 3 slidng wind-seal clips on each
side of the cover. The clips are part of the rails
you mount on the top edge of the bed they slide over some small angle brackets that are attached
to the folding sections this holds the cover down
along each side. Plus on the first hinges behind the cab are these mounting blocks that are clamped
to the bed lip these are what you have to take off
to remove the cover.
My salesman and I went and filled the truck up while he was going over operational features of the truck.He had a check list of items
he was required to go over with me. I was satisfied I that new how to operate the truck long
before he was finished.
and if you could the lock paws would probably break the black glass. It will just stack behind the cab.
bongo99 - 5.9L vs. 4.7L - I think most people are a little more concerned with gas mileage since gasoline went up in $$$. Everyone seems to love the 4.7L which has better gas mileage than the 3.9L V6 and the 5.9L.
4aquad - 2WD vs. 4WD - You could write a book with all of the discussions that have occurred just within the Edmunds forums. Only you can answer this one as to whether you really need / desire 4WD at the price differential and additional operating costs. One thing seems for sure that most people order the limited-slip-differential (LSD) with either the 2WD or 4WD.
In conclusion, "building" a truck that has the engine, tranny, rear-end, wheels, tires, etc. that you want takes some time to educate yourself. But I'm one of those guys that gets into it.
Have you removed the mode selector switch? There are no wires going to it. The switch is simply a vacuum selector. Attempting your method of trying to over ride the computer is a really touchy proposition. Just 1 mistake and you could either fry the computer and void your warranty or You could cut or probe the wrong wire and blow the air bags! I do not know if you are a professional automotive electrician and do not wish to insult your obvious knowledge of this vehicle. I was an aviation electrician's mate / avionics tech in the Coast Guard for 8 years. I was qualified to maintain, repair, and modify the electrical systems on HH65A Dauphine search and rescue helicopters. 4 complete navigational systems, 4 complete communications systems, 13 on board computers and fully automated flight control systems. We fly in what we fix so our but is on the line, we do it right!
The type of switch system I used is the most easily installed way for the layman to use.(Just my professional opinion of course.) Yes the computer still thinks the compressor is running, so what? It does not care! Increased idle, no big deal it would be increased if the compressor was running anyway. Cooling fan running? increased cooling.
This switch should only be used when a driver wishes to have recycled air without the fuel mileage hit ie. dusty air, driving through Pasadena Tx, (haha) or when wishing to defrost the windshield and the compressor is not needed. I guess I should have explained that.
According to the shop manual, the other end of the wire I spoke of goes into the fusebox under the hood (Known as the PSD [Power Distribution Unit]) A simple modification of your design would produce a more desirable result...Besides the obvious improvement of controlling just the COMPRESSOR. (I can get the wire colorcode, connector and pin# from the manual if you wish)
I do not like the electric fan running because it pulls salt-laden spray from the car in front of me thru the radiator in the winter and is so #@#$ loud.
I am also conserned about the onboard computer. It expects to have full control of everything and WILL re-program other things (such as spark timing, Idle speed, injection duration...etc) based on its inputs. Bypassing the computer is NOT a good idea. It is far better to tell the computer to turn off the ac system and let IT do what it needs to do.... If you want to do it right!
tpeters1 / towcrazy2 = I've read (a lot) that the 5.9 is being replaced by either a 5.4 or 5.7 (I believe a 5.4 hemi) I can't remember which... have you seen anything on that at all?
towcrazy2 - my dealer support was/is superb (to date) - Benny Boyd in Lampasas, TX. - they did things for me that MOST dealers wouldn't. So they got my Quad sale - and anything else I buy in the future. And I don't (didn't) even LIKE Dodge's.
bongo99 - 4.7 for me (and most), bpeebles (I think) said he got his because of new design, as well as the new design 4-spd auto. A lot of D/C's new corporate image depends on this combo. Makes perfect sense to me (after I bought it). Got mine because it hauls [non-permissible content removed](ets) very quickly. But I like his idea better - now. ;-)
All - 42 NEW posts here and 22 in 1636 today?! Amazing. :-O
Regardless, I wouldn't leave a dealer use your $5,000 for what could be months. Keep your deposit down to $200.
Since a large deposit doesn't "buy" you a quick delivery. You must check out the dealer's level of allocation by asking the question here or calling D/C. Allocation is probably the biggest factor in getting the truck you ordered. But be aware that the model year is soon coming to a close so an "off the lot" purchase may be the best choice if you're in a hurry.