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thank for help
thank for help
It wouldn't start last week. I think on Tuesday. Had to get it jump-started. Was fine for the past several days. Have been driving it daily. Though the last few days when I turned the key it wouldn't start immediately. Took a second and a half maybe. Then started. This is from a cold start. After having it sit on my driveway overnight. Once started I can shut down my car. Come back and it would immediately restart. No hesitation. What is going on with my car?
I Googled and on another thread they said it could be the PCM or a faulty alternator. That maybe the PCM was triggering the doom lights. For some reason something seems to be draining the battery overnight. Not good.
You might also check your trunk light. Pull a back seat cushion forward, and look to see that the trunk light isn't staying on. A faulty switch can keep this light on, and can drain your battery substantially in just a few hours.
How did the cranking speed sound? How cold was it? What weight oil is in the car?
Heavy oil for winter turns very thick and slow cranking speed. A weakening battery does the same. Poor connections at the battery can also affect this. Check for corrosion at the grounding end of the cable at the battery.
To check for drain due to glove box lights and trunk lights my technique was to rapidly open that item and feel the area around the light bulb. IF the bulb has been on the area will be nicely warmed from the continual heat. When the door is first opened, the surrounding area should not be very warm; after being open a miinute you'll feel the increase in heating.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
But I did take it to the shop this past Tuesday. Found out my battery was dying. Couldn't hold a charge above 8 volts. So I guess when it's cold (e.g. -5 or colder) the volts would be even less. Was told there should be at least 9...I think for the car to start. The new battery was tested before I left. Read 11.7-12.8 volts. Though that was in the shop. Not during a cold morning before a cold start. Was -18C up here in Toronto today. No troubles starting. So it's not the cold. But likely my old battery on it's last legs. Though, that would be in less than 4 years.
I guess this box can simulate where the voltage reading would be on a very cold day. Which is why my old battery kept reading roughly 8 volts. Whereas the new one 11.8 to just under 13.
Wait a sec...if so then I should have got a free replacement battery no? AC-Delco battery's should be warranted for 5 years. DAMN. Maybe I should have taken it to the dealer. Though my car's 3-year warranty was up. I totally forgot about the warranty when I was at the shop.
Might report after a few days. The last time (after getting my battery jump-started) managed to start my car from Wed-Sat. But wouldn't start on Sunday. Should start tomorrow now with this new battery...knock on wood.
All batteries will be at 12.6 volts with only slight variation due to temperature. That's the electromotive force of a lead-lead sulfate chemical cell.
What happens is that during cranking, the high load on the battery allows the voltage to drop. If the voltage drops below 9 some of the computer parts don't work right. The colder the temps and the thicker the oil, the harder the motor is to turn over and the drag lowers that voltage.
You have a new battery. I suspect the warranty left on the old battery and the price they would have wanted adjusted for the warranty might be more than what you paid for a replacement already. I don't know how long the original AC batteries are warrantied. I'd have to read my owner manual?
Enjoy your new battery.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Found out the battery that came with the car is covered for 3-years or 36k. So I was past the warranty period any how. My shop buddy did mention this. Just remembered. So no loss.
Thanks. I see now more clearly why my mechanic friend told me there must be 9 or better. My old batter, as I said, would not stay above 8. No wonder it would eventually go dead. My new one should be good. Will be driving today (Sun) again. And probably every day for the next few days.
And when you said "all batteries will be at 12.6 with only slight variation due to temp..." did you mean at all times. And when you said "variation" did you mean in very slight degrees...usually staying above 11? If so then I shouldn't have anything to worry about at this point. As long as my car doesn't sit outside for weeks. Not that I will ever do that. At most my car has sat outside for 2-3 days. My mechanic said at -20C my battery should be good for roughly a week.
I assume your mechanic checked the output of the alternator to be sure it was charging properly. Alternators can fail from 0 to hundreds of thousands of miles. I had a 93 where the alternator failed (lost one of the diodes out of three at 75K); it made a whining noise. I have a 98 with 170K and 03 at 100K with original alternators. If you're not sure take back by the shop and they will check it for nothing or a small fee. Or stop at one of the box stores to have them check, but usually they want to check cars potentially needing new batteries or alternators at the box stores, so they might view you or me stopping for a check with a new battery as a pain.
The only downside is that alternators working extra hard to charge defective batteries sometimes wear themselves out and fail earlier.
Do you have a voltage gauge or digital readout? The alternator should charge 15 or 16 volts after a cold, cold start and taper down to 14.5 or so in cold weather. As the temp gets warmer the charge voltage goes slightly lower.
Battery:
The battery voltage is chemically controlled at 12.6 for the 6 cells. This is the water pressure through a garden hose. During draining to crank the car, the amount of current, like volume of water through a hose, drops because the chemical reactions cannot form new electrons as quickly due to lower temperature down nearer zero. This is why one rating on batteries is cold cranking amperes at zero degrees F.
That's when we'll notice a slower cranking speed.
Sitting:
Because all cars have slight drain on batteries keeping computers alive at their settings, including clocks, radio settings, computer for power trains, I don't like leaving a car sitting more than 4-5 days. If you can just start the car and idle for 10 minutes, that's more than sufficient to recharge the battery.
Never let a battery run dead if you can help it. That causes the surface of the plates to be rebuilt completely with a new layer of lead and ages the battery a good degree. If it does go dead, recharge with a long drive and lots of idle time in one cycle rather than lots of short trips with the lights, AC, blower, on using current.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I won't be leaving my car sitting outside in subzero temps for more than a day or two (e.g. usually weekends) if i do. On average my car is driven 6 days a week. For more than 10 minutes easily. So I should be good from now on.
Regarding the alternator...as I said...my mechanic friend did tell me it was fine. Must have done some kind of testing. Should have asked him how he knew.
Any how since this is considered an aftermarket battery bought from a garage it comes with a 6 year warranty. Or so the AC-Delco website says. So I should be good for at least another 4-5 years as far as the battery is concerned.
Is there a "Ferrari of batteries" out there? One that has proven extremely reliable even under extreme conditions (e.g. -35C weather, car sitting outside for x-number of days...etc.)? I know one of you said you don't need to exactly match a battery (by cca) to a specific car. That I could have installed one with over 700 cca. True? Is there such thing as too much cca? Just in case in the future I have to replace the battery again.
Picking batteries is like picking stocks on the market.
I have had good luck with Walmart's Maxx battery in my 98 LeSabre. 8 or 9 year warranty and started weakening at 7 years or so and got an adjustment on a new one. It's made by Johnson Controls which makes lots of things for the auto industry.. I had put in the larger of two sizes that would fit my Buick. Walmart doesn't have one for my 03 with battery under back seat with vent tubes required. I'm disappointed.
As I indicated, battery life is more based on how it's treated than just the warranty period alone. Recharging to full charge and keeping it there helps keep the plate surfaces in proper condition and helps prevent growth of needles of material that short out a cell as a battery ages.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
So far my car has started every day since I got my new battery installed. Which was last Tuesday. Should continue this way for months if not at least 4-5 years out of the 6 year warranty.
Though, I have read about how (online) another 06 Impala owner who had swapped in a new battery. Only to have it die again 10 days later. So I guess I'll just have play it by ear. Though I think in that one case they found out it was his alternator and a faulty diode. I know my alternator is fine so hopefully I'll be okay.
The ticking sound you hear is a stuck actuator that controls the opening and closing of the vents. The actuator can be replaced by the dealer. The average cost to replace the actuator is $600-$800.
Both of the problems you are experiencing are relatively common for the Impala. A competent dealer should easily be able to resolve these problems, although the total cost could easily be $800-$1000. My suggestion would be to get the heat issue fixed first, as it presents a comfort/safety concern (and is less expensive than the actuator issue.) The ticking sound is annoying, but if the vent system is still functioning for the most part, it is certainly a repair that can wait until it becomes absolutely intolerable.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Mine just had a battery that was on it's last legs. Swapped in a new Delco and has worked flawlessly since. Though in my case my 06 just wouldn't start. I would get some one to help me jump start. Would run fine for the day. Then the next day it would be dead again. It was -10C or colder then though.
I am from GM Customer Service. Can you please keep me informed on how the repairs go at the dealership? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Pressure test cooling system
Locate leak at coolant crossover pipe gasket
Replace coolant crossover pipe gaskets.
Coolant 8.8 quarts
Gasket 12623852
Gasket 12577704
Seal 24504709
After I drove in traffic, I felt the top radiator hose. I could feel gurgling. I will be checking the reservoir. My gas station mechanic still thinks there is loose plastic in the water pump.
I hope that I find this before the Warranty expires.
Chevrolet tells me it is covered by 100,000 Power Train.
We will see.
:confuse:
Thank you for keeping me up to date on the repairs. Are you scheduled to go back to the dealership to have it checked out? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
The original rotors tend to crack and pit. They are selected for lighter weight is my guess as to the type of metal. They work well until they go bad, and when they go bad, they go bad.
I usually replace rotors with the first pad change at 50-60 k miles. Then the next pad change I replace the calipers. I would not turn rotors, especially the originals on any vehicle. Since I buy quality replacements, I will turn the replacements if they have gone out of round or thickness.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Out of curiosity I'd love to know what brands manufacture in the US or Canada. Or in Europe (not sure if Brembo outsources...they are an Italian company).
And just because something is made in China it doesn't necessarily mean they are sub-par. Lots of good companies (e.g. Nikon etc.) are manufacturing products there with strict quality assurance practices. Having said that it will take China several years more before they can establish themselves the way Japan has for quality and reliability. Look how long it took for Japan. Japan used to suffer the same ridicule "...Made in Japan? LOL!!".
How many time do you have to have something fixed before it's considered a lemon?!
I personally know 2 people with the same car/problem but unfortunately at the time theirs were both under warranty.
I loved my car up to this point and have talked it up so much but I am very disgusted at the moment(not to mention freezing in town because its 7F out).
I will let you know how it goes, and plan on doing the rad/heater core flushing and then testing it before replacing the belt/tensioner.
But for all of you other guys out there, give your belt a pull, if it feels loose then that may be the problem.
I confirmed his by shining a flash light on the button right after the radio dimmed. And the sun was blinding me this afternoon. About a minute with the flashlight on the button, the display lights brightens back up.
How do get this "over engineered" problem fixed. 2008 Impala owner.
I apologize you are having difficulties. I would recommend having the vehicle diagnosed by your local GM Dealer. Please email me if you have any further questions comments or concerns.
Christina
GM Customer Service
If Customer Assistance can help you work with your dealer towards resolving this, please email Christina with your name, contact information, VIN, and dealer name.
Best,
Sarah
GM Customer Service
After 30 years of promoting GM products, I just cant do it anymore. Sad.
Anyway, my car heats again at idle so I wanted to share what they did to fix it.
Good luck to everyone...I think I will save my pennies and jump on a Lexus as soon as I can get out of this stinky, leaky, upsidedown Impala LTZ! :lemon: