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No biggie, here's my situation . . .
we bought a 2006 vw jetta tdi. fuel mileage is averaging 34-36 mpg. there is soot all over the rear end of the car. a 2004 gets 45-50 mpg with no soot. This isn't right, what's wrong with our car?
The only time I notice soot on our cars is in the winter when the air is cold and humid. Of, course, that's when gassers' rear ends get covered with soot, too. You may try flooring it a few times to blow out any carbon build up in the intake manifold and turbo. Your exhaust smoke should be light gray, not black. You may also try one of the additives, such as Stanadyne Power Formula. Fuel quality may be an issue, but it should not be anymore. If your exhaust smoke is usually black, get your car checked out at the dealer.
all of my diesels have gotten soot on the rear bumper cover both before and after ULSD. it's less with ULSD though.
03 jetta, 05 passat, 06 New Beetle DSG, 06 jetta 5-spd. it's harder to see on the darker colors of course. maybe your 2004 was a darker color? also have you been burning 500 ppm sulfur or the ULSD 15ppm?
i "floor" my TDI 100% of the times I drive it on highways - i think this makes it smoke lots more.
my 06 jetta (38k miles) is malfunctioning now. heavy knock on cold start and really difficult long-cranking hot-start. dealer will figure it out next week.
I like washing cars but in s miami, we were under water restrictions for the longest time so everyone had a dirty car. I mean like black suvs that are mostly snow white...
-Cj
Well, the glove compartment door is broken in. Actually, just broken. It's going to cost $275. The armrest is broken again. 2nd time - probably $100. I'll get the check engine light outed. Its been a month and 1200 miles since my last visit to the dealer so it's time for it to come on again. I'll be danged if I pay to replace the front seats again.(The first time was under warranty.) Does anyone know what all those springs laying all over the floor under the seats do anyhow? Seats seem to be fine without them.
But I don't want car payments. Can't really find anything else I'd like. Although my dealer let me drive a $55,000 BMW back to work (with sales guy along)and it was very nice. Perhaps they would do an even exchange... that way they could get rid of one of them. I sure can;t buy it.
If it is a (longer)spring that fell out, it is more than likely the lumbar support spring. The dealer quoted me 600 to fix. Cetainly it is cheaper to go to the auto salvage for a used replacement. If they fell out on both seats, if it bothers you, it is actually makes sense to get new cloth Recaro seats for app the same cost.
My question regards the parts. I understand that the glowplugs had changed for this engine recently (presumably when the PD was introduced).
I want to make sure that i'm buying the right parts.
I found a place online called
Auto Parts Warehouse
which lists two different types of glowplugs for the 2005 Jetta TDI:
OE Service Glowplugs (M10 x 1 x7) $26.99 each.
Bosch Glowplugs )M10 x 1 x7) $27.99 each.
The Bosch glowplugs listing states that they are suitable for the GL, and GLS TDI, Wagon (I have the wagon...not sure why that would make a difference).
Any suggestions, or experiences replacing your own glowplugs? I have also heard that the glowplug harness should be replaced...is this necessary?
You did not tell us what year your TDI is nor which engine you have so I cannot really give you any specific answers to your questions. In fact, you did not even tell us WHY you are going to replace glowplugs. Are you having some kind of problem you are attempting to resolve?
Based on which engine you have and what year your TDI is, the answers to your questions may change and I do not want to mislead nor confuse you.
I can tell you that on either engine, USE ANTISEEZE on the threads when reinstalling.
Also, may I suggest you consider TDI Parts as a parts source.
Its a 2005 Jetta Wagon with the PD Engine (BEW engine code I believe). It has 55,000 miles. I have had glowplugs replaced at the dealer twice already, when it was under warranty.
The dealer now wants $308 to replace all four glowplugs. I don't they know what they are doing.
Being that they've been replaced twice already.......it seems a little questionable that you've gotten that many faulty glowplugs. I'd try something else first for sure and my recommendation doesn't cost anything. Not sure where you live either, but if the car is starting in the cold, obviously the glowplugs are working.
My other question, my cigarette lighter both the driver and back-seat port stopped working few days ago. does anyone know where the fuser box is located? one will think usually on the dashboard driver side right? nope. Need to buy a new fuser n replace it. And I have also read in here that the mileage sucks. If I had known better, I will have gotten a A4 instead.
Oh well, please let me know of any suggestions you may have.
I test drove a jetta SE(2008 version of 2.5) and it was nice!! But it had like this gap when accelerating between gear 2&3. The TDI's have DSG so i'm sure that gaps pretty much gone.
Can anyone compare the 2.5 to an A5(JETTA 05.5+) TDI(or by a stroke of luck a 95accord v6)? I have a video on my carspace and after about 30mph, i could no longer hear a diesel engine...
Id test drive on on my own but the nearest AM/DSG TDI is 75miles away vs 1.5 to the dealer... :sick: Feels like I missed the gravy train...
-Cj
Does anyone know where the schedule for the Dieselution Tour is posted?
I really like the 56 MPG this tirepressure gives me. (lower rolling resistance)
Although I expected to see the tires wearing in the center... this has never happened. The wear is very even across the width of the tread. The belted radials are almost impervious to bulging out.
But as mentioned in previous append... the ride is pretty rough.
if you are getting less-rolling-resistance, it is *very* likely that you are also increasing the emergency-braking-distance. the two things are inversely related.
admittedly the rolling-resistance relates more to the coeefficient of static friction, and without ABS the emergency/threshold-braking-distance relates to something "inbetween" the coefficient of sliding friction and coefficient of static friction.
but maybe you see my point. and yes the contact-patch size is a factor too. the actual physics/math are pretty complex but it's very easy to design a controlled test where you can compare for yourself in a parking lot.
pump up your tires to 25PSI, go 30 mph and stand on the brakes and measure braking distance. wait for tires/air-inside to cool, and then do the same test with tires at max-cold-pressure. i'll bet you a dollar that the results are exactly as i predict.
Neither of us fell off the turnip truck, and unless you tell me otherwise, I will assume neither did you.
To address what I would assume is an almost laboratory experiment based on the emergeny braking distance of so called rolling resistant rated tires, is something even the tire industry has yet to addressed. Indeed I can not point to ANY established protocols!!! A trusted source such as www.tire rack.com hasn't even mentioned this as a future project. First there are no tire industry standards for rolling resistance. Next there are no rating system, such as UTOQ. Even UTOQ ratings are acknowledged to be only applicable WITHIN a vendors tire line and NOT across vendors. So to SWAG across vendors requires a fore knowledged gained by a lot of first and second hand experience/s. Of course you need enough data for correlation testing and standard deviation, min and max etc. So while you might swag ahead of this situation, to come to any real conclusions is even ahead of the measurement metrics. Keep in mind that most of the 60-0 stopping distances are done (and dare I say certified?) on OEM vendored tires. Very few car magazines do anything close to evaluationg the other available brands/models that are not necessarily oem vendored. Indeed I know of almost no tire vendor that advertises; for example," stops 20 ft shorter on 60-0 trials than the oem!!" Shout out if you do know of any.
Emergency braking is not only situational, but it is reaction based, such as in drag racing. So while 60-0 is a metric often referred to, I find very few instances where folks knowing play chicken with a steel/concrete/brick wall in a 60-zero situation. Indeed performance cars, which I would assume owners put "performance" tires, are more costly to insure due to more at fault accidents, to include rear ending a vehicle in front.
For me, oem (least) rolling resistance data are useful for tread life and fuel mileage PERFORMANCE. On the TDI it is commonly known that deviation from OEM tires usually means decrease PERFORMANCE (in the mpg variable and in many cases offers far less tread life. In addition both have real life dollar consequences.
To address your concerns, I would SWAG, one the cheapest fix (15-30 bux) is to change your fuel filter (after you are reasonably assured the bio diesell is through the system. In addition or indeed before, (I) use a product called Primrose 405C which is an (H20) emulsifier, cetane boost and lubricity agent.
Now your situation is complicated a bit by the fact they actually have a bio diesel product that does the same thing. So obvious you have two ways to go. Let us know which you chose and what happens.
Drain tank, replace fuel filter... you should be good to go.
I have never done it on a TDI, but on my previous gasoline VWs, I could pull the fuel-pump relay and just "jumper" the correct pins to force the fuel-pump to run. (when testing injectors)
I would expect you could pull hose from fuel-filter and put into gascan and then jumper the pins on the fuel-pump-relay.
BEWARE: The fuel-pump draws a good deal of current and can easilly drain the battery while engine is not running.
I have officially put my 06' Jetta TDI for sale. Not by choice but reality. #2 Kid will be here soon and 2 cars seats and strollers and all that gear amounts up to very little comfort room in the Jetta. If I had the money I would keep it as a 3rd vehical. But I bought the new 08' Caravan. Dear God I never thought the day would come that I drive a VAN. Well the wife can drive and I will watch the dvd in the back. I have to say it was one hell of a car to own. But it has its drawbacks as a family cruiser. The cold weather and warm up period for starters. With only 45000Km and in mint condition I hope to get back 75% of what I paid for it. And what we pay up here in Canada for Vehicals is criminal compared to the states, especially with our dollar being so strong. I hope to get another TDI one day. If anyone is interested in the car and is in the Alberta area give me a shout. seanfrew@hotmail.com
If it still stalls on you, the fuel filter or bad fuel would be suspect.
Then there is always the good old Vagcom diagnostic.
Good luck.
Answer: VagCom website
I took it in and they are telling me that I have to replace my intercooler and some work needs to be done to my turbo chrger because oil is getting into the hose that blows air into my turbocharger. All told it will $1600 ($370 for the intercooler and $600 for the turbo charger).
Does this seem logical or could something else be causing this to happen?
Any advice would be really helpful as I don't want to shell out $1600 replacing parts that don't need to be replaced.
Bottom line - It sounds as if your turbocharger oil-seal has failed. I do not beleive you need a new intercooler. (just wash it out with dish-detergent and hot water.)
$600 for a new-complete turbocharger is a reasonable price. Are you certain this is a NEW and COMPLETE turbocharger? (not just a center-bearing or some other subset of a complete unit)
Check out this website for complete turbocharger service (rebuild/kit whatever you need.)
Look at the bright side of things.... if that oil had reached the engine, it would have gone into runaway - accellerrationg uncontrollably. (Diesel engines use oil as fuel!)