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As I mentioned, I tried some PowerService DieselKleen additive, which helped, but only short term (which was confusing). As for the question about the performance, the car is smooth until I hit ~2000RPM and remains smooth as long as I don't depress the pedal past maybe 1/4....at which point there is no power, the car feels like it does a bit of light jerking, etc. I can't even max out the tach with the car completely out of gear...completely in neutral the engine tops out 500RPM below redline and declines further from there (to up to 1500RPM below redline during the few seconds I was willing to test that theory).
The other reason I'm asking for info from other owners is I want to know somewhat of what to expect from the dealer...mine seems to have a habit of "oh sorry, looks like we can't find an issue" or "well looks like there's been this done elsewhere, sorry but we can't help. Take it back to the other shop" syndrome.
the tensioner roller spring snapped off......(back side of factory part looks cheap)
so ..had the factory part replaced jan 15....same part broken again jan 26..
its a great car...but high maint...im now checking for after market tensioner.
any comments welcome
This is one of the MANY reasons it is highly recommended to have a SKILLED, KNOWLEGABLE and EXPERIENCED person perform the delicate task of replacing the timing belt and related components. (Most VW dealships do not fall into this category because they do not work on TDIs very often)
I would also bet money that you will NOT find an aftermarket tensionor for a TDI engine. The VW-supplied part is very reliable when installed properly.
Please tell me you are joking that you do not know what the glowplug light is used for!
BTW: You asked for ideas.... I think you need to start with a new battery. And perhaps re-program the keyfob.
Lets talk about the glowplug lamp some more... I believe your original complaint was "Hard Starting in cold weather". It is the glowplug lamp which will FIX this problem. You should learn more about the glowplug lamp.
NEVER EVER try to crank the engine while the glowplug lamp is lit. Not only will your engine be very hard to start... but you may destroy the battery by overloading it.
Your owners manual should have a section which discusses starting the engine. It would not hurt you to read thru it.
Nancy
The best battery to buy is one that is stored on the shelf "dry" with no acid in it. This way, it is fresh and truly "new" when the acid is added before installing in vehicle.
As for capacitors becoming "overloaded".... I am college-trained in electronics and can tell you that the only way to damage a capacitor is to apply too high a voltage... at which point it will explode like a firecracker. I do not think this is your problem.
Your only real way to diagnose the problem is to hook your car up to a diagnostic computer. (Like a laptop computer with VagCom)
Thanks to all who responded to my inquiries. I appreciate the advice but none of it sorked so far. I am aware of the glow plug light ...now. However, after reading through the manual 3 or 4 times cover to cover, i cannot find mention of the light. The only thing in the manual about diesel is a 3 page spec sheet in the back. It's like it is an afterthought. I tried the key in the door and one in ght ignition. Nothing. The immobilizer light is blinking to show me the car thinks it is being stolen. No fuel to the engine is an indication the immobilizer is not turning on the pump. Typical of the system.
It was not a problem of difficult to start in the cold. It has always been a problem of it just not starting at all. The only commonality is that the battery went dead dead dead. Even the little red dash lights would not even glow. I am going to spin a note off to VW techies and see if they have any bright ideas. If I learn anything, I'll post it. Thanks again.
Anyway a new filter took care of it.
If that is what it is, it won't be a warranty item, so you will pay the dealer unless you do it your self, which isn't difficult. Best thing you can do is buy a Bentley service manual for your model. They aren't cheap, but saving yourself one dealer service will more than pay for it, and after that it's all money in your pocket each time you are able to use it to do your own service.
Good luck.
Glad we could help in the diagnoses.
BTW: It is damaging to the starter to keep cranking the engine more than 10-15 seconds. Also, cranking the injection-pump without fuel could lead to a VERY expensive repair. (over $1000 for the injection pump!)
To get engine started:
1)pull hose off of new fuel-filter. (the one which feeds the fuel injection-pump with fuel.)
2) apply slight vacuum to the nipple on the fuel-filter... this will pull fuel from the fuel-tank and fill the fuel-filter with fuel.
3)When the fuel-filter is full, you will start to get diesel-fuel out of the nipple.
4) Re-install the original hose to the fuel-filter.
5) Start engine.
If you are careful, you will be able to stop sucking fuel at step #3 and lose very little fuel.
I sucked fuel until it came out the nipple. Presumably that means the filter is full. I also squirted some fuel down the hose to fill it. Reconnected the house. Engine still won't start.
Is my next step is to pull it to a autoshop and let someone who knows what they are doing fix it? I thought I was so clever to replace the fuel filter myself. Duh.
Any other ideas?
I just did the 4th oil change on my 2005.5 ( new body style ) Jetta, and your post about using the vacuum extractor for oil changes made me remember to ask this question.
Are you tilting your car with jacks or something to get all of your oil out with the extractor? Each of the times I have changed oil I have extracted all I could through the dip stick tube, then removed the filter, and removed all I could by getting the suction tube way down deep in the hole in the bottom of the filter housing.
After I have gotten all I can from those 2 places by maneuvering the suction tube any way it will go, I have then removed the drain plug just to satisfy my self that I am getting all the old oil out with the extractor.
Each time I have still gotten a considerable amount of oil from the pan when the plug is removed. This last time I collected the oil, and poured it back into an empty 1 liter oil bottle, and it measured nearly 800 ml. That is lot more than I am comfortable leaving in to contaminate the new oil.
I do have a grease pit in my garage, so I am not jacking the front end up or driving it up on ramps, so was wondering if that angle is required to get all the oil to where the extractor tip can reach it.
Just wondering if there is some trick to getting it all out with the extractor? :confuse:
I can tell you that my oul-sucker has graduated marks on the side of it and I always get nearly all of the oil out using that as a guide. Perhaps since my driveway is slightly tilted twards the drivers side of the car it helps?
Now with the air already in the system, you can hold down the accelerator pedal while cranking the engine until the engine starts. This may take several minutes, but it will start.
Jetta 7
Jetta 7
Jetta 7
Here is the backwards explanation.
I do not have my (Jetta TDI 2003) Bentley's handy, but the difference between the so called "dry fill" and the normal replacement oil used (specified in the owners manual/Bentley's, are a reliable indication that unless you tear down the system back far enough, one will not remove close to ALL the oil. Be that as it may, the additional "problem" is hinted at; given the oem's owners manual on how to take a "proper" oil level reading. My oem manual indicates that upon shut down, I have "several" minutes to take a "reliable" oil level reading. So if I get a level between min and max, I am good to go. So if it does fall between min and max, it is easy to see there is some variance right there. I have come to rely more on the "overnight" reading that if you tend to check these things closely and make sure it is at full, the overnight level rises higher than the oem procedure of several mins after engine shut down and checking between min and max. Indeed overnight the level rises to the bottom of the crook in the dipstick if one tends to keep it close to max, using the oem recommended procedure. So here is the conundrum, if you drain it after heating up the oil, there is a portion that will not hit the oil pan until close to overnight has passed.
So to make a long story short, I use the extractor. The measurements on the side of the extractor indicate I get out app 1.5 gals and have on every oil change. In addition since I recycle in "specified gal containers, I put out almost precisely 1.5 gals for the recycle truck. I put in 4 qtrs (1 gal) and back fill the .5 gal after I take the overnight measure. The other cue is I fill it to the crook of the dipstick.
I just thought I may have missed something in the extraction process that would have gotten more of the old oil out.
Since I'm sticking with the recommended oil change interval of 10,000 miles, it's not something I'm doing frequently enough that spending the extra 5 minutes to remove & replace the skid plate, and pull the drain plug out is something I mind doing, especailly when I have the grease pit to drive over, so I guess I'll just keep on doing it that way, knowing that I've gotten that extra 20% the old oil volume out and save the extractor for other uses. I guess we all have our own little anal retentive issues.
Even after 102,000 miles, I am still amazed how nifty the extractor method of oil change remains . I have been and continue doing the required visual inspection cycles, so I STILL jack it up.
So far the techs determined that "The system governing the glow plugs had failed and had burnt out the glow plugs". All replaced and repaired for about $450.00 It ran one day and then had the same problem - same towing.
Now they have determined that there is air in the fuel system and are claiming to purge it from the gas tank forward saying this will take at least five hours = $350.00.
Does this all sound Kosher?
Thats my take on the EGR Valve. I think your friend got RIPPED OFF!
until they figure it out. at a minimum they should refund every dime of the markup on the new parts. aside from all that, the mechanics seem to be inept at fixing TDIs, probably it's best to find another mechanic at another dealer or independent shop.
If I recall correctly, Leviticus did prohibit inept misdiagnosis of TDIs, so to answer the original question: no it is certainly not kosher.
A good place to get on the trail is link title
Was that number 587 or 588?
Thanks to everyone for the help. I will pass it along.
Thank you.
Any wise one out there with advice, experience.....I am currently about to negotiate with the VW Customer Care people and I would love to know what I should be saying.
Many thanks!!
If it really is a "sensor" then the part cant be more than a could hundred bucks tops.
My own personal thoughts.... they are full of cr@p because there are no "sensors" on the turbocharger. If they really mean that the VNT vanes on the turbocharger are sticking... there are ways to correct that situation for less than $2000.
also you Sconsonians are pretty advanced with the hydraulic mufller bearing,
and with the throwout too. the workmanship is outstanding on those.
taillight burns out? change fuel filter. windshield washer low? change fuel filter. thursday? change fuel filter.
really it is not uncommon to have to swap the fuel filter more often than the recommended interval.
in your case its gotta be a fuel system problem. i've seen mention of same problem before being a clogged fuel-return line - the TDIs have fuel flowing in 2 directions at once, into and out of the tank. if the return line is blocked then sometimes the pressure in the forward line isn't always going to be adequate. I wonder if sludge is sold as diesel fuel in USA sometimes. and with the prices so ridiculous this winter, who knows what ancient tanks of 500 ppm crap diesel some retailers are unearthing.