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VW Jetta TDI



  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I don't know about removing an insert, but my TDI came with a "vent" button down in the neck. It's normally "vented" when you screw in the cap, however you can remove it and it lets the tank fill much quicker. If you look down into the neck, there's a black button about 2" down that can be pushed. You can also push the button while filling if you hold the nozzle just right. You'll hear the air venting as the fuel is loading and you won't get the bubbles and what not that normally slows your fillup.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yes - there is an "insert" in the filler-neck that most folks remove so the fuel-pump nozzles will fit in better.

    My TDI has the "insert" removed when I picked it up from the dealer.... so some folks may not even know their TDI had an "insert" if the dealership removed it before they took their TDI home.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    i've run the same set of 15" ice/snow blizzak WS50 on steel rims on both an 03 jetta TDI
    and 05 passat TDI, and very much recommend that setup.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    BTW-- removing the "insert" from the filler-neck is commonly referred to as a "ventectomy". Some simple searches on the internet would reveal the procedure.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    i've read that the new jetta TDIs have an insert in the filler neck to prevent the truck nozzles. i've read they do not have the "vent" and cannot have "ventectomy" - that's only for the "A4" & "B5" TDIs.
    apparently we'll need a new term for what the new jetta TDIs may need regarding their fuel neck: fuel-filler-neck-insert-ectomy?
    i hear the new Benz CDIs have had these inserts too for 05 and 06.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    What have music287 and I have been saying? All you have to do is look into the filler pipe of an '06 TDI and it is obvious. Obsolete advice is not helpful, folks.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    cosmo what's up. i am reiterating what you & music287 have said - and that is that a bad thing?
    as for looking into the filler pipe of an 06 TDI, i've done it and i see no filler-insert: 06 NB TDI. that's an A4. the 06 jetta TDI is an A5 and the "jetta tdi special editions" reportedly have some differences compared to the earlier A5 jetta tdis has anyone seen a special-edition-tdi yet? the local dealer has gotten a few but they are sold the day after they arrive, despite the $3k MSRP increase, or whatever it is.
    i'll look into a special-edition-tdi fuel-filler-neck as soon as i can and will report here what i see. also i'll ask the dealer to remove the filler-neck-inserts if they are there and if i am buying...
  • just got this car 2 weeks ago in Anchorage Alaska, got 500 miles on 12 gallons in city driving. getting ready to drive to kansas city then to San jose california, I love this car My truck a 2006 ford dually 11mpg I traded in. $5000 in fuel in 8 months on truck, it was killing us. check out our web site
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You made a GREAT choice with the TDI for your driving habits. You will really enjoy the >700 miles per tank of fuel. (once engine is broken in)

    One comment - DO NOT USE CRUZE-CONTROL DURING YOUR LONG TRIP. Your engine is still wearing in and running at constant speeds for any length of time is NOT good for breaking in an engine. Instead, vary your speed every 1/2 hour or so and sprinkle in some bursts of full-throttle accelleration.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I put Nokian Hakkapeliitta 2's on my Jetta and my daughter's Jetta and think that they are great in snow. I have dedicated snow tires just for the winter. You can usually pick up a set of reasonably priced alloy rims on Ebay if you have a place to store the spare set. I have also read some really great reviews from various people on these tires "".
    They are a bit differant from a standard tire, but the were developed in Iceland.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    The larger diameter nozzles are geared toward trucks and has nothing to do with the sufur content of the fuel. I have an 04 Jetta and have done fillups with the bigger nozzles, it just doesn't fit in all the way so I stand there and slow down the pump rate and keep a close eye to be sure it doesn't spill at the end. Right now the sulfur content for LSD (Low Sulfur Diesel) is 500 PPM max; pretty soon you will be seeing ULSD (Ultra LOw) which will be 15 PPM max.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    THere is a very simple modification that you can do to remove the internals for this vent valve. If you go to TDI club and do a search for "ventectomy", you will find a very simple procedure with pictures to remove this rather annoying valve. Some people use a screwdriver to push in on this device to allow a complete fill, I found the best thing is just to remove it. This allows you to get another 1-2 gallons in at fillup. I drive 170 miles before my fuel gauge ever comes down off of "F".
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    I have also seen posts where people took a bit loss in fuel economy when there anti-shudder valve started hanging up and did not open 100%. THis valve just momentarily closes when you turn the engine off to kill the air and give a quick shutdown. Then it re-opens and stays open. It will act as a plugged intake causing the engine to suck hard for air if it hangs up and does not fully open.
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    VW can and will check your records to see that your oil was changed at the prescribed intervals. You need to keep documentation to that affect or if you need some type of engine repair that could be attributed to not changing the oil they will not honor your warranty. Just an idea: purchase some 505.01 compliant oil, use your computer skills to doctor the receipt date to correspond to when it should have been changed, and start a maintenance index card that you keep in glove box showing dates and work performed in order to have the necesary documentation.
  • I bought a brand new 2006 Jetta tdi a month ago and already the AC is having problems. It will turn off by itself for no reason whatsoever for may 20-30 minutes at a time before turning on again by itself. The air still blows, only the AC cooler is what is malfunctioning. I took it to the dealership and of course it works perfectly for them. They returned the car to me stating that it has no problems and there were no error codes recorded, etc. I need help here. I am really pissed off that I just spend a lot money on this car and already it is broken and the VW service center is unable to diagnose a problem and fix it. I want to take it back to them and tell them to keep it until they diagnose it and fix it. I live in Tucson, AZ and not having AC for half an hour at a time in 100+ degree weather is not fun. Does anyone know what might be the cause of the problem? I don't plug anything into the cigarette outless so I am not straining the alternator. what do you recommend for dealing with the VW dealership?
  • Thanks for info re MPG.
    Please explain NOT using the throttle when starting from a stop! (It is a manual transmission.) Tried "driving the torque" but didn't get anywhere.
    Also, live in the hot South where A/C is a must. Does that have much affect on MPG?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Also, live in the hot South where A/C is a must. Does that have much affect on MPG?

    Sure does, especially in city driving or idling. I've measured my fuel injection quantity at idle with a VAGCOM and turning the A/C on increases fuel burn by a good 25%. Doesn't really effect it much on the highway, but around town it's obvious.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    "Please explain NOT using the throttle when starting from a stop"
    Well, The TDI engine has soooo much torque that there is rarely any need to touch the throttle while enguaging the clutch. Only AFTER the clutch is enguaged should you start to apply throttle.
    In stop-n-go traffic where you are only moving a few carlengths each time... you should not ever need to touch the throttle. With the TDI, it is very easy to enguage the clutch and even shift into 2nd gear and let the idle speed of the engine pull you with traffic.
    Not only is this a better way to drive a manual will maximize the life of your clutch. (I have never- EVER had to replace a clutch on over 6 vehciles each with more than 120K miles)

    The above technique takes some practice and patience... do not expect to "speed away" from a stop... but that is how you conserve fuel. Accelleration should be soooo smmmooottthh that a blindfolded passenger could hardly tell you have started moving.

    I cannot explain it any clearer than that.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    prizink your advice to nikolay is bad. nikolay please don't do something like that. i sincerely doubt that skipping the oil change has caused damage, or that VW will void your warranty in any way because of you being honest with them.
    top TDI geeks have verified that the TDI oil change intervals are quite conservative - the oil usually lasts much longer than 10k miles. many high-end cars do not recommend the first oil change until 15k or more miles!
    kitty9, yes the AC has significant effect on mpg, but nowhere near 25%. 10% max. on my 2003 the mpg would drop from about 48 mpg to 45 mpg with AC in use - on the highway too.
    jchallenger, certainly bring the car back to the dealership, or maybe better yet, a second dealership. if they cannot repro the problem i recommend asking to trade vehicles with the service manager for a day or two, whatever it takes so that person will drive your car for an extended time so as to investigate the problem.
    additionally there are data-recorder devices that can be plugged into OBD port, logging all the ECM data including AC information such as compressor duty cycle.
    also your car may have an "AC cutout switch" that is malfunctioning - not sure if the TDIs have these - but it is a switch that disengages the compressor at full throttle so as to get more torque to the wheels.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I would also like to add that the term "void your warantee" is really too general.... Even though you may have missed the 5K mile OCI.... that does not mean that the warantee on the rest of the automobile is now "null and void"

    HOWEVER... if you are unfortunate enough to encounter an OIL related failure... VW is well within their rights to refuse to cover the ENGINE. It is VERY unlikely that you will encounter OIL related failure. (Unless you do not use the proper oil specified by VW for your TDI engine!!)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    kitty9, yes the AC has significant effect on mpg, but nowhere near 25%. 10% max. on my 2003 the mpg would drop from about 48 mpg to 45 mpg with AC in use - on the highway too.

    kitty9 uses the TDI mainly in the city. 10% is probably high for highway driving, but when just idling the A/C raises fuel quantity by nearly 25%. I've had the VAGCOM hooked up and measured it. On the highway, it barely changes the fuel burn by turning A/C on. The engine is more efficient at higher rpms so the A/C doesn't drag on it as much.
  • dledle Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Jetta TDI. I have a similar problem but not as bad as you describe. I do most of my traveling on the highway. I occasionally get a little stutter or shudder that lasts less than half a second and then back to normal. Usually happens when cruising rather than accelerating. Happens with or without the AC on. Took it in in April and, of course, they couldn't replicate the problem and no codes showed up. Last week the emissions warning light came on and they needed to replace a glow plug and harness. They said this would also fix the hesitation problem (which they can't otherwise diagnose). Anyway, the hesitation is still there. I don't know if this is the same problem that you started with
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    yow, dle, this is the first i've heard of an 06 TDI stuttering. our 06 NB TDI has no stutter or "bucking".

    sebring95, thanks for the great points. my 05 goat mpg meter switches into "gallons per hour" mode at idle - and just like your vag-com showed on your VW, the goat fuel meter shows a significant increase in gallons/per hour after i switch on the AC. i think it goes from about .75 to .9 gallons per hour. i'm not sure if the idle speed increases however, probably it just uses more fuel to maintain the same rpm. (stickshift).

    peebs, good points re the warranty & oil!
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    Jetta 06'TDI

    I just noticed driving in the rain today that the wiper on the drivers side occasionally will go too far, actually slightly past the edge of the windshield and hit the support bar in the upper left corner (looking out the windshield). Why would this happen, shouldn't the wiper motors be set so that there would be no possibility of the wiper going past the windshield? It doesn't go far enough to catch on it, but enough to make a noticeable noise when driving with the wipers on, so annoying. Is there anything I can do to fix this problem without getting the dealership involved.?? Any help would be great.

  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    Thinking of doing a car polish for my new 06 Jetta before the winter hits. Should I be doing it this soon? I have had it for about 1 year now, also what type of polish should I use? I think the VW dealership here has some (dont know what type) but is there anything better?

  • I purchase an 06 jetta TDI in May and have recently had an issue with the brakes. Temperature readings on the rear wheel rotors is about 100 degrees F greater than the front. Temp taken with a digital thermometer after driving about 30 minutes. Dealer initially said, emergency brake and then ABS modulator. Adjustments on each did not solve the problem. Dealer now saying that this is normal. Pads, rotors, and calipers have been changed and same thing still happening. Anyone out there have a similar issue and if so, what if anything fixed it.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    My take is you have three or four issues going on with almost none of them having to do with the brakes/brake system.

    My gut level response (from your analysis) is it is a matter of managing expectations.

    First off, there are NO (temperature) technical specifications for either the front and/or the rear or the front in comparison to the rear and vice versa. You can draw some types of hypothesis from this temperature difference (100 degrees higher in the rear than front)They of course may or may NOT be problematic. (as an aside, I dont even know what the temperatures are of my combinations or whether or not my rears are 100 degrees hotter or not)

    2. dealers (smart ones anyway) usually want to take care of their customers. So when they have a issue, concern, gripe in the worst case, they will "throw parts" at it under "goodwill" in lieu of a "spot on" diagnoses." Of course most folks are familar with dealers occasionally misdiagnosing problems. Indeed the corrective measures did NOT solve the operating condition you observed.

    So the KEY question/s: on the old pads, rotors, and calipers did they show any signs of abnormal wear? My guess is probably not.

    Next, since we drive a front wheel drive and engine combo, all the weight is (normally) handled by the fronts. So in design VW put in proportioning valving to retransfer the stopping power to the rears. This would tend to heat up the rears faster and hotter than the fronts. However in models past, this caused the rear pads, rotors, etc. to wear that much faster than the fronts. In some cases showed abnormal wear conditions. This was corrected and rear pads (depending on conditions and how driven of course) can last 100-120k.

    Best of luck and let us know how it comes out!
  • Own a 2005 Jetta TDI wifes car love it. Yesterday Sept.16,2006 we bought a 2002 Jetta TDI because we love diesels. This one has the check engine light on dealer did not try to lie about it. He said car was purchased new there and serviced there on VW maint timeline. They have checked it a number of times and it has something to do with glow plug sensor. They are to give me a complete maint print out Monday Sept. 18. They cant seem to fix the problem,I have a f250 powerstroke diesel that I maintain myself. Also while driving today upon returning home car would not pull itself up the drive. I disconnected battery for about five minutes hooked it back up drove around it seemed to shift hard but at least I got it in the garage. Anyone know the best scan tool that will work with both my cars on is A4 platform other is A5 whatever that means. Thanks in advance for any help. Jeep Taylor
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The best scantool for VW/Audi is VAGCOM My VAgCom paied for itself within 4 months. (3 VWs in the family)

    As for your glowplug issues, this is very common if the connector-tips on the glowplugs are allowed to corrode.
    Best-case, you would just need to replace the failed glowplugs.
    Worst-case, you would need to replace the "glowplug harness"
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    You could also try just cleaning all the contacts for the glowplugs and harness. I get that code every now and then and find sandpaper to the connections usually fixes it. If not, a new GP harness isn't expensive at all. For parts, I like Much cheaper than dealer for the same OEM parts, or they also offer a lot of good other brands. I bought my radiator through them and it was 1/3 of what I've seen folks pay at dealers.
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