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Without sunroof the auto body is more rigid and safe!
I understand that zero types of Mobil 1 meet that spec but would prefer to be wrong. Please point at any reference which indicates that any mobil 1 oil meets 505.01 VW spec?
You shorted out 2 sets of hours ? What does that mean?
Meets:
ACEA C2/C3, ACEA A3/B3, ACEA A3/B4, API CF
Meets the engine test requirements of:
ACEA A5/B5, API SL/SM
Approved:
VW 504 00/507 00; MB-Approval 229.31/229.51; BMW Longlife 04; Peugeot Citroen Automobiles E/D
Recommended for applications requiring VW 502 00/503 00/503 01/505 00/506 00/506 01 (all VW engines with exception of Unit-Injector /Pumpe-Duse TDI without Longlife Service and without DPF between 1999-2003 and RS/V10-TDI before model year 2006).
So, it looks like this oil is not for your 505 01 (06 TDI).....because you have what they refer as Pumpe-Duse (Unit-Injector) engine....you must be using SAE 5W-40 I believe....
There could just not be an 8" difference between two similar cars like this. I don't think there would even be an 8" difference between a Taurus and a Jetta.
Every few days my coolant light comes on. I refilled it correctly, and again disappears somewhere.
There are usually a few drops near the bottom pulley. There should be way more coolant either on the ground or somewhere collecting.
No white smoke, oil is not milky. Year or two ago, water pump and thermostat were replaced along with a/c clutch.
I have spend a few hours after running the car, inspecting for leaks. Even under the car a few minutes after taking a long drive (being very careful of course).
Also wiped down the different hoses to be sure dirt was not obstructing my view. Then went back a few days later with a white paper towel looking for coolant.
Have read internal leaks can be common but did not find any solutions.
Thinking the heater control valve may be an issue? That is something I did not check for a vacuum leak or a clog? Guessing at this point.
My wife's Passat few years back had so many of them (electrical problems, that is) that we decided to get rid of the car - then she got a Saab 9-3 convertible and had different kinds of problems, mostly with A/C (but she looked good in it, with rag top down) ...now she is driving Honda Civic EX-L happily ever after....no problems whatsoever. That is an evolution of some sort...
There are some additives out there on the market that you can put in a coolant and it seals the leaks by itself - I have done it before although on much older cars....
If there is a small leak in radiator, for example, you will not see anything dripping because radiator being hot would cause the liquid to evaporate before it drips. In either case, you could "smell" the coolant but you could not see it dripping....
What I think is important is that if there are recurring problems of the same kind, the dealer maintenance supervisor should be encouraged to call VW to open a "case." VW knows things that have been reported that VW dealer does not -- there was apparently no service bulletin on this maddeningly stubborn problem but VW put their fingers on it right away from past experience, and recommend a repair rather than an outright harness replacement. That's too bad, because they already have replaced the wiring harness at the dealer. Ouch. I'll bet that was expensive. My only desire is that it be fixed and not recur.
You can always ask the service technicians or service manager to point the area in your engine compartment and/or ask them to show you, what they have replaced. Replaced items, if under warranty, normally go back to VW technical center for their evaluation. But, once out of warranty, the replaced items must be saved and given to the owner, if you ask for it. I think there is a law to that effect.
But anyway, I just thought it would be nice to know and inspect that area....
Thanks anyway...
Interpreted: That sucks.
This from TDI Club. It is worth a try to save $500. If it is as this post suggests.
I have an 09 JSW TDI with DSG. This does sound like Emissions Warranty to me!
(NOTE: This info may have been revised!!)
"There are three specified major emission control components,
covered for the first 8 years or 80,000 miles of vehicle use on 1995
and newer vehicles:
* Catalytic converters.
* The electronic emissions control unit or computer (ECU).
* The onboard emissions diagnostic device or computer (OBD).
** In the future, there may be other parts or components that
qualify for this coverage. Check your owner's manual or warranty book
for possible additional coverage.
FURTHER INFO:
"What Should I Do If My First Attempt to Obtain Warranty Coverage Is
Denied?
If your first attempt to receive emissions warranty coverage is
denied, you should do the following:
1) Ask for a detailed explanation, in writing as to why emissions
warranty coverage was denied; and
2) Ask for the name(s) of the person(s) involved in the decision
to deny coverage, including anyone from the manufacturer's
regional or zone office; and
3) Ask for the name(s) of the person(s) with the manufacturer you
should contact to appeal the denial of coverage under the
emissions warranty.
4) Contact and, if necessary, write to the person mentioned above
requesting coverage and giving the basis for your request. Repeat
and continue the appeal process until you are satisfied or have
exhausted all means of appeal."
Unfortunate VW owners have spent piles of cash in expensive top end re-builds in cars that used the VW recommended 505.01 oil since new, with no guarantee
that the new cam, bearings and lifters will last any longer that the old ones,
I think VW is just hoping all the old PD 2005.5/2006 BRM engines will all quietly wind up in the crusher soon and everyone will forget about that embarrassing little experiment.
It was just one bad batch o camshafts, according to all the data I've seen, including that from the local dealership which services thousands of TDIs and has only seen one with the "dissolving-camshaft". but hey, they could be lying to me I suppose