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DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB
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Comments
I bought mine at NAPA, I am looking at the sales slip now. All 8 plugs came to 47.92 +tax.
Do not forget that you should use some silicone rubber grease on the coil O-rings and antiseeze grease on the plug threads.
Any further insight into those shocks? I've been looking at them too. Did you have to pay $69.95/ea or did you find a better deal somewhere?
Have you done any towing with them?
twj
Although I did not consider the brake pedal "squishey" before... it ceartainly feels firmer too.
I consider the rotors now "seasoned" and I expect to move to "letting the smoke out" of the pads soon to finish up the break-in process.
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html
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I did not change the brake lines.... are there braided SS available for the new frontend 4X4 design?
My truck had an encounter with a porkupine
(they love to "nibble" on salty things) I guess the salt-covered rubber brake hoses were tasty. They have "nicks" all over them. Not a 'safe' situation... a brake line may burst under emergancy braking conditions.
Thus, I am eager to find out more about SS lines
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Did you do the Edelbrock IAS on all 4 corners? Be honest now... is there really that much difference? I have been considering them myself but am not clear on the benefits. Do you notice difference on the road or only while 4-wheelin?
Under what conditions do you feel there is improvement over OEM shocks?
I guess I am like tegwj .... wondering if the $70 apeace is worth it.
Regarding the SS brake hose I believe they are available.Praisedyno brakes may be one of the suppliers. I will try and check the adds again in Sport Truck mag and find the supplier. Hope this answers some of the questions about the shocks. JimT
I just replaced all four corners with the "performer" shock at 20,000 miles (01 QC 4.7 T&H 4x4). What a huge improvement. I tend to drive fast (not crazy fast, just quick) and the stock shocks were bouncing me all over the place. The front end was making all kinds of funky sounds as the big tires hit pot hole after pot hole on our Ohio roads. It was time for a change!! Origianally the stock shocks were adequate. ample performers, but nothing to rave about.
I too was skeptical of the "Ricor" inertia sensing valve. It reacts to force, speed, and inertia.... Blah Blah Blah! I too have been a sucker for advertising claims, so I did some research. I wanted a multi valved shock Ie: Billsteins, Edelbrocks, MonoMax, etc. They don't make Billsteins for QC's, so those were out, Monomax were 60 - 65 each. Nobody makes the claim that Edelbrock does, and they have a 30 day money back gaurantee. So what the Heck!!
All I can tell you is WOW!!! I am a firm believer in these shocks now. Hit a big hole and the shock lets the wheel come up down and thats it. Really dampens the big hits. Stomp on the brakes and the front doesn't dive. Put your foot in it and the [non-permissible content removed] doesn't squat! The ride is firm, with little to no jarring. The shock really does open up (???) for the big hits and stands firm when the body want to move. I don't know how they did it, but it lives up to my expectation. The front end noises have quieted down considerably too. I think that I've got a control arm bushing, maybe a ball joint going bad... imagine that! lol!
I do not know if the twin tube shock would work on the front of a 4x4. The single tube (performer) were a pretty tight fit due to their inverted design.
Blue
You see engineers come up with the design and the necessary materials to achieve a pre determined level of performance and durability. All fine and dandy. Then the beancounters, always watchful of budgets and constantly looking to cut costs, with one move of an eraser, cut the development/parts procurement budget. Engineering then is forced into one compromise after another to meet curtailed, often absurd cost cuts. The unhappy result is a product which comes under budget more or less but is fraught with defects and substandard parts.
I offer Dodge Dakota rotors and drums as exhibit A.
The finance guy who cuts twenty five cents off the cost of a five dollar part is hailed as a hero and receives bonues/stock options as a reward. Sometimes he even gets a promotion to product planner or marketing analyst. Joe Blow, the customer, receives grief after he owns his vehicle for a while. WOrd gets out on shoddy quality, parts that wear out with alarming frequency, and sales begin a slow but noticeable decline. Sales groups, the people charged with "moving the iron", cook up a neat marketing ploy to help move that iron in the form of rebates or low cost (sometimes no cost) financing.
Corporate profits begin to decline and the cash saved in cutting the development budget is frittered away on P.T. Barnum style marketing. Sales continue to decline which leaves less money available for future product development....ad infinitum.......
More and more today, corporations look at the STOCKHOLDERS as the customers. It appears, looking at current trends of the stock market, that this short-term strategy is starting to take its toll on many. After bleeding a company dry of its REAL cashflow (the paying customers) there is not much that the beancounters can do.
Use code YM3 for your discount. www.fumotovalve.com
The bed dimensions are widely available and will tell you if your quad will fit. There are tiedowns so you might end up without the bed extender, and just lash the quad down snugly. The bed extender slightly reduces the effective width of the tailgate opening, and without it you could sit the centerline of the quad's axle a bit farther back on the open tailgate -- there's a few inches to play with, which might be enough.
Mine (and many others) has poor-quality front brake rotors. Paritcularly frustrating on mine is that you can feel the warping get exaggerated as the brakes warm up.
twj
Be advised that the Dakota Quad, however, has the shortest bed. I don't believe you will be able to close the tailgate with a standard size utility-class ATV. The width will be fine.
Good Luck,
Dusty
Some of the changes were purley cosmetic such as the 2001 not having any engine badging on the front fenders. Some of the changes were to not install such underhood things as the hood-insulation and the rubber airdam on the passenger side of the radiator. I also understand that somtine in 2001 the full-size (matching all others) spare was replaced with a mini-spare. (The cost of one wheel/tire is well over $200)
DC also started to use a new synthetic transmission fluid after the 2000 model year in the 45RFE tranny. This improved the maintenance schedule for that tranny significantly.
Quality differences? I would say that the fin-n-finish quality went down but the (more important) details improved such as the improved oil-filler on the 4.7L and the above mentioned synth tranny fluid.
Also in 2001, ALL 4.7L dakotas received the "border states emmissions package" with the tripple catalytic converters. The HP rating went down due to this.
Front brake rotors are JUNK on ALL of them... plan on installing quality rotors with low-dusting pads.
This is all from (fading) memory...
does this answer some of your questions?
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kmmand - sorry about your truck/lemon. Go for a new one! Don't take possesion of truck #2 - they need to make this right.
ok anyone evernoticed on their q/c's especially on the 2wd versions that the right rear tire sticks out about 1/2in - 3/4in from the fender well then the left, (in otherwards the axle is offset to the right)?... noone seems to have a logical explanation for this and I have noticed this one others in parking lots around town and fresh off the dealer lot so I know mine is not special.... very noticable without fender flairs. have not had any abnormal tire ware and truck tracks fine....
Regards,
Dusty
Bookitty
Dusty
Are larger throttle bodies available for the 318 vintage Dakota and RAM pickups? Any idea on cost?
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
There are several choices on the market. For the 4.7L V8 one can opt for a larger Flometrics TB from SpeedTweaks
but the diameter of the intake system changes too... forcing one to spend even MORE $$.
A MUCH less expensive route is to choose a FASTMAN TB that is a modified stock unit.
Since the TB on th 4.7L V8 ONLY has to flow air, (fuel is injected at the valves) there is really NO technical difference between a larger billett TB or a modified stock unit. They are both just a venturi with a butterfly valve within.
Both the above companies offer TB products for the 318 V8,too.
Thanks again,
Dusty
I'd like to make more room back there and was thinking about removing the larger section but didn't know if it was doable or not. Looking to buy a 2002 QC 4x4 to replace our '96 Ranger . . .
so i built a platform that sits level, with formed legs to accommodate all the bumps and dips on the floor pan. once installed i get a little over 4 square feet of flat solid space, plus additional space where the rear floor mat on that side would sit. the platform is elevated a bit to clear the high points, so there's a good six inches of "invisible" storage underneath it in that footwell area.
it's really a tremendously useful area. and if you need the rear seat it just lifts out and sits in the bed so the seat can go back into position.
twj
I haven't logged on in a while. I see I haven't missed much.
Today, I took my 2001 QC SLT-Plus 4.7L, HD to the dealer because of poor fuel economy (down to 14 mpg from 15~16) and power has been falling off. Plus, the warm idle is unstable unless I turn on the A/C. The
Dealer said he did the following to fix the problems: Flash Module TSB# 18-003-02 AND Erase and reprogram the JTEC Powertain Control Module (PCM)with new software. I've only driven it a short distance. Can't distinguish a difference yet. Will keep you posted.
FYI: Several months ago, I installed a stone guard in the lower part of the front bumper - where the A/C condensor sits. Bought it from a company in California. My dealer liked it a lot and asked me where I got it. He commented that he has "more than a few" Dakota owners in for replacement of the condensor b/c of stones and road debris coming thru that opening.
Steve
Do you have a BRAND NAME for your lower valance gaurd?
Their number is 1-888-542-3626. Their website is: www.mmrusa.com.
You can see the grill (black or silver) and detailed installation instructions (with pictures). I'm not mechanically inclined, but, was able to install it in about 30 minutes. It looks great. I'm very proud of the installation job I did.
With the a/c off, the idle speed was @ 500 rpm. While stopped at redlights or stop signs, the idle would dip to 400 rpm. Vehicle would shake violently. I'd bump the gas pedal slightly and idle would bounce back up to 500.
Gas mileage dropped to 14.3; down from 15~16 in town (with a/c on).
Like I said in my earlier post, the dealer reprogrammed the computer. A/C idle has smoothed out a lot. The non a/c idle is 600; no dips or stalls now.
Since it's only been a couple of days, I haven't measured my mileage. I'll wait 'til I fill up again.
Glad to hear that they've "fixed" yours so far. Can you get me the TSB # for your computer flash? It should be on the receipt or on a sticker under the hood showing an authorized modification.
Thanks for your reply
Steve
My Dealer's Invoice says they did the following to fix the problems:
"Flash Module TSB# 18-003-02" AND
"Erase and reprogram the JTEC Powertain Control Module (PCM) with new software".
Steve
This is it's second trip to the shop.
I had:
2 oil leaks....rear main seal and oil pan gasket replaced.
Tranny fluid leak.....Output shaft seal replaced
Left hub bearing loose.......replaced faulty bearings.
Don't buy this truck. Save up and buy the Tundra.
Considered buying a Tundra but didn't because I had a 1 year old 4-Runner whose rear windshield wiper stopped working 1 month after buying the car. The molding on the sun roof also came loose and has been a continual source of problem. My QC has been everything I wanted and less trouble than the Toyota.
Engine idles much better BUT my MPG has dropped from 15~16 city down to 11~12 city (with A/C on).
As soon as I get time, I'm headed back to the dealer. I'll keep you posted.
FYI: I've been a big believer in the Dakota QC; but, I'm starting to wonder if I should trade it in on another brand of 4-door truck. Both Dodge dealers in my area (South Alabama) can't seem to get anything fixed the first trip. Don't get me wrong, they are friendly. But, "friendly" don't get the job done.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1867088553
thanks all,
twj
Bookitty
Rear wheel disk brakes are also exceptionally good when driving in wet conditions. As drum brake performance is substantially impaired when wet.
http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101/brake.html
Disk brakes have their place... but so do drum brakes. Simply having disk brakes for the sake of having disk brakes is silly. I am glad that they are an 'option'. There is a reason that drum brakes are still used on REAL TRUCKS.
In reality, disk brakes save weight over drum brakes but are MUCH more susceptible to wet weather. Disk brakes also leave the black dust all over your wheels. Disk brakes also have inherent DRAG that drum brakes simply do not have.
The real reason that disk brakes are available is because they are a selling point.... nothing more than marketing.
Some of the other 'options' for the Dakota that are actually LESS VALUABLE (just an option for folks that want to spend money) are;
- 4 wheel ABS
- 'heavy-duty' option (only adds a power-steering cooler)
- full time 4 wheel drive (actually has LESS traction)
It is all about marketing...Heck... even HONDA re-desighed the accord just to fit a V6 under the hood. The added weight actually handles worse and adds very little true value to the Accord. Honda only did this complete-redesign to add the V6 JUST TO COMPETE IN THE US MARKETPLACE.