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Comments
Should be ok to use cruise control.
How fast can you drive it? As fast as you feel comfortable or until the speed limiter kicks in.
Watch out for them smokies.
Time to put your foot in it and enjoy!
Bookitty
Yep, This has been observed by many 5 spd owners.
Mine does it a bit. Very light clunk sound with clutch engagement/disengagement. Does not always do it all the time. Kinda depends on engine speed as well. If I let the engine deaccellerate briefly so the drive line it not under torque, the shifts are silent.
People who have asked the service department about this, have been told it is normal.
If you feel it is really loud, then have your service department check it out.
Good luck,
Bob
Take it in to the dealers.
It is under warranty so let them figure it out.
They will probably give your rear-end a good lube job!
Just picked up my new quad cab Saturday, and so far I absolutely love the thing, however I noticed one thing that had me a little concerned... a large portion of the underside of the vehicle has rust on it... for example the rear leaf springs have small patches of rust, as well as the rear axle in a few places... the exhaust has some on it too in places, as well as a few other places... now it seems as though the rust could easily be removed if I just took a little sandpaper to it, but I am not sure if that is a good idea... the dealer told me these things happen, but hell the vehicle is only 20 days old, built on the 1st of march... my best guess is it sat outside for a little while in Michigan during one of their storms earlier this month... anyway, what's my best course of action, or should i just leave it? any help would be greatly appreciated...
Bookitty
Thanks,
Todd
The cap purchase will have to wait until after I pay my taxes...errrr.
$1300 is a sizeable amount of money. Especially for a 5 foot cap.
I am curious as to what the breakdown is, of the cost of the cap.
Is it like buying a vehicle? What I mean, is there a base price for the cap in which accessories or options are added?
Thank you,
Bob
I wonder if any of those spray on chemicals could stop or neutralize the oxidation or rust.
If you discuss this matter with your dealer, please let us know what the outcome is.
Thank you,
Bob
I would guess mark up is about $300 . . .
I will let you all know how it looks on my pat. blue quad!!
I also called my dealer and he agreed with me that the break in period is only 300-400 miles and you can doing anything oil change wise after that . . . I proceed to put mobile 1 syn. 5w30 in and notice a real horsepower increase. The engine is also even more quite!! My advice mobile 1 every oil change!
What do you people think of Bosch(sp) oil filters . . . the higher priced ones . . .?
I believe he found that the Mobil1, AC Delco and a filter called 'Hard Driver' were the best. He also concluded Fram sucked, FWIW.
Is 3 or 400 miles sufficient to allow the rings to seat properly? I would think it might take a little longer than that. But I could be wrong.
http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/minimopar/techdata.html
Bookitty
Bookitty
The Westin nerf bars came highly recommended to me by several sources (Bookitty was one). They can be installed by one person in about 30-45 minutes and are very strong, well I had two really fat guys stand on them without them budging!
If anyone is interested, the rear-end squeaking that cropped up was due to my spare tire lock (Quicklock) that I installed. I purchased the quicklock and tried to install it, but found the U-bar was too short. I called the company and they said they had a number of calls regarding the lock they were sending out to folks with the full size 8 inch rims, the bar was too short with the spare in the normal position. The solution was to turn the tire upside down. I didn't get the tire centered and tight enough when I winched it back up... hence the squeaking. Always happy when it's a simple fix!!!
Any problems with getting rid of the factory oil/filter and replacing with a good quality synthetic oil? (ex: heard about a performance oil that says you'll get a 5% improvement in HP...Purple something or other, otherwise Mobil1)
BTW, I understand Molar offers a cold-air induction system for our 4.7 engines, where on the WEB can I read up on this, plus get pricing info (imagine this includes the box and a I&N or supercharger type filter, right?)
Also looking at alternatives for the Gibson Super Truck dual side cat-back exhaust, they want around $300, who else is in this price range or lower, and offers the same amount of HI/Torque gain?
Other then these changes for more power (maybe a 180 degree thermostat and chip upgrade down the road), most other mod will be cosmetic.... what is a better buy for a fiberglass tonneau cover, LEER or A.R.E.?
Thanks in advance...
Macey . . . Some people suggest you wait 1000 - 3000 miles before putting synthetic oil in a new engine so that the rings and seals properly set themselves . . . My dealer said that the 4.7's break in period is only 300-500 miles and after that changing oils should be no problem. I put mobile 1 5w30 in ant 500 and notice a big difference in horse power and overall engine noise. If you ask me . . . if high performance German cars come with mobile 1 in them from the factory . . . it can't hurt a newly developed engine like the 4.7!!
I have also heard negative things about A.R.E. Z caps. I would stay away from A.R.E. products right now, check out Leer, my brother and dad have had Leer caps in the past and they have been decent quality.
tuvtest - thnxs for the awsome link, knowledge is horsepower!!!
ford_bii - An interesting perspective on A.R.E. Sounds like you have definately had some customer service issues. I have decided not to get the LSII with Sportwing... Unless any of my Wonderful Cyberpals would like to contribute to my "biglucy" fund!!!
So I'm wondering if anyone has seen the Chevy Avalance up close and personal?? I've been checking out the Chevy Website and I have just one word... Strange.
Edmund's is showing the 2002 MSRP at $30,000 for the V8 4x4. This thing has a "midgate" behind the passenger seats, I can't wait to see one!
About the size of a Ford Supercrew, which I was considering before getting the Quad.
$$$ determined what I could get at the time. Ford was not available with a manual transmission.
Don't particularly care for automatics.
Like the cool way the midgate makes room for long items like 4x8 plywood.
Not too crazy about the wrap around plastic look on the lower half of the truck. (Aztek on steroids?)
I would be concerned about how well the midgate seals out wind and rain.
Will a cap be available for the back? How about a manual transmission.
Like you say 33k msrp for a 4x4....that just soared past my imposed budget.
I wonder about the same issues as You, especially the midgate. It would seem that you "remove the window" and stow it - sounds... strange. Not to mention a structural nightmare? I dunno if a cap would fit with that crazy sport looking plastic stuff on the back. Call me old fashioned, but (so far) I like my cab and bed seperate. What's that commercial for the steroidal Nissan<?> outdoor protostud, getting the truck filthy inside with mud, snow, and the like? Yes, trucks are meant to take abuse, but anybody gets dirt in my cab and they're in BIGlucy trouble!
I would like to get one if I have to pull off the skid plate every time to change the oil.
Does anyone have a link to this product?? Thanks in advance..
PS: Still on the approved to wait list, ordered quad 3/14.
Boy, my old (demolished 98) extended cab didn't have the stinkin oil plug hidden on the 318.
http://members.coolnet.net/~jjmiller/image/pics/gerald.jpg
Gettin itchy for the '01 quad !!!
I am wondering if anybody has put a High Performance Magnum Engine Controller on their quad cab. If so, what was the cost, the performance enhancements and the possible problems with it. Should I get the exhaust done first?
Is so, I've seen quotes for around $250 or so from Mopar performance shops throughout the country (in AZ in particular). I can't recall the shops in particular, but you might do a search on Mopar's website for performance shops in your area or do a search on the DML (Dakota Mailing List at http://www.dakota-truck.net). There have been lots of discussions re: the HP PCM vs. other alternatives like Jet Chips, custom PCM flash from Mike Leach & Co. (the people who designed the program for Mopar's PCM), etc. The performance gain is supposed to be about 18hp to the rear wheels for a 5.9L engine.
Depending upon your engine size, you might want to consider installing an air intake kit (K&N FIP Gen II, AirRaid, etc.) and a catback system (Gibson Single Swept Catback) before going with the PCM upgrade. Mopar claims their Cold Air Induction system (rebranded K&N FIP Gen II I believe) adds about 15hp to the rear wheels on a 5.9L engine. Gibson claims their Single Swept Catback adds about 5-10hp and 15 ft-lbs. of torque to the rear wheels on the same engine.
Hope this helps.
'00 Quadcab SLT+ Garnet Red 4x4 (AWD) 5.9L 46RE 3.55 LSD. For list of modifications to my QC, see my profile:
http://www.twistedbits.net/WWWProfile/dakota/Vof5jrNb0pR1M/
For pictures of my QC & Accessories: http://www.geocities.com/txqc2000
Thanks for you help.
Bookitty
http://www.starboards.com/2044.htm
I think they are $499 color matched
Here is a link to someone off of Dakota owners group or the DML
http://intense99dak.com/steve.htm
Nathan
I have a sport and it also is missing the insulation, but the dealer told me this when I ordered . . . That hood insulation is a bad thing if you live in areas that get alot of snow and the roads get salted . . . the salt gets behind there and you can't throughly wash it out . . .
If you ask me then hood insulation is something your better off with out!!
or something like that . . . Everybody check it out!!