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Chevy Suburban

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Comments

  • gfergiegfergie Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 K1500 and have developed a electrical glitch that's driving me nuts! The combination flasher will continuously cycle at will while driving down to road. Once the turn signal arm is activated the 4-ways and turn signals all function normally, however the relay cycles by itself.
    The dealer has not been able to trace the glitch and the vehicle is not under warranty. The comment from the techs was to turn up the volume on the radio....
  • sslandysslandy Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Suburban. I had a trip into the city yesterday and had to pull the outside mirrors in (parking was very tight!). When I pulled in the passenger side mirror, there was a large crack and now the mirror flaps in the breeze. The power control still works. Does anyone know what is involved in fixing it? Is it like the useless fog lamps? My passenger side (sort of a trend I guess) fog lamp bracket snapped. They wanted $85 for the whole assembly (including a new lamp). My husband came up with a fix for that. Can I be as lucky for the mirror? Thanks in advance.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Member Posts: 244
    Try replacing the relay.
  • susanb1susanb1 Member Posts: 1
    Recently I was parking my 1997 1500 in front of an office building. I was inching forward in the space to be certain that I was in far enough and the next thing I knew I was crashing through the front windows of the building. Unfortunately a woman was walking on the sidewalk in front of me at the time. She lived but was severely injured. Twice since my accident I have noticed surges as I am pulling to a stop. I am trying to find information on other cases of surging. P.S. The police report says that I accidentally pushed the gas pedal instead of the brake but I am certain that was not how it happened. Does anyone have information that could help?
  • joec3joec3 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 99chevy suburban. It has 140K miles. The service engine soon light has been on for a few weeks now. I took it over to the local Auto Zone and the code P0453 came up. Can someone tell me what the code P0453 means and what steps to take to fix it??? I know what that code reads, but what are some options?
  • echo00echo00 Member Posts: 2
    Recently, our family just bought a 93 K2500 Suburban. It has an overheating problem.After 10 min driving on freeway, the temp goes up to 250 degree. So far, we replaced water pump, hoses, fans, the radiator cap. But the problem still exists. This car obviously has a heater core problem, but I don't think that's the reason for overheating. Did anyone experience similar problems? What else could cause engine overheating? The radirator looks fine and no leakage.
    Thanks for your time and help.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Member Posts: 244
    Did you replace the thermostat? Has it been filled with Dexcool and not standard antifreeze?
  • aykutaykut Member Posts: 1
    I am planning to buy a suburban as a second car for weekend trips and Home Depot visits. I have come across a reasonably priced 1994 with 234,000 miles on it. Everything looks good. I just wanted to know if there are people out there driving suburbans with 300K-400K miles on them. Can I expect to drive this 1994 Suburban for another 100K-150K?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Any idea if those are highway commuting miles or lots of interurban driving? Remember that it's not just the engine and drivetrain with all those years and miles, but also the brake system, suspension, etc. A good going over by your mechanic would be worth it.

    Steve, Host
  • theomdtheomd Member Posts: 11
    I have 2001 Suburban 1500 4x4 with 58,ooo mi recently (with in the past month) replaced all 4 tires an had front end alignment done. Now hear an intermittent clunking noise from the front end (L?) when going over bumps/rough road. Otherwise front end is quiet and it drives/tracks well. Any thoughts??? Thanks.
  • fastwillyfastwilly Member Posts: 1
    The seats start to warm-up then shut off, both are doing this. Is there a relay or something that can be checked? Thanks
  • discipledisciple Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone give me a real-life highway gas mileage number for the new (05) Suburban?
    TY
  • echo00echo00 Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply. Yes, we did replace the thermostat and put standard antifreeze. Actually we put 40 below from summit. The only thing we could think about right now is Radiator, though it looks good from outside. We will have it checked very soon. If it does not solve the problem, we have to say good bye to this car, though we like it very much.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    check what temp level your seats are set at. the lowest only heats the seat to body temperature, medium goes a little warmer, and high goes a little warmer. there are lights near the control-one bar lit is low, two bars medium, three bars high. it shuts off after reaching preset temperatures.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Member Posts: 244
    Yep, sounds like the radiator is blocked. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
  • cbett1cbett1 Member Posts: 9
    I'm trying to find out how to replace the fuel filter on my gas Surburban. On the tank side is the usual line/nut config but on the engine side is a wierd conn to a small short flex hose. At the end of the flex hose is a metal clip which I can remove but I don't know the trick to getting the thing off. Thanks for your help!
  • richphillipsrichphillips Member Posts: 36
    On flex fuel vehicles (8th digit in the Vin is Z) it takes a special fuel filter disconnect tool. I ended up taking it to the dealer, and went back and quizzed the mechanic and the tool he used was a Kent Moore J 46363 fuel line disconnect tool, that looked like a pair of tweezers, with a tapered cone at the end, of each side of the blade. You put the cones around the fuel line, slide it up to release the spring and slide the fuel line out. I did a quick google and found another guy's answer on a bulletin board about how to get the tool. I've copied and pasted his comments below.

    Here's the deal on the 2003 VIN (Z) (L59) fuel filter. I just changed mine. This topic may even relate to the 00-04 Z71's, but I know for sure 2003's. I also had to buy the fuel filter from GM. You will need a special tool as standard fuel line disconnects will not work. It's a $40 piece of plastic that looks like a fuel line disconnect however, it is different. I found the number in my Service Manual which I bought from Helm Inc.
    It's a "J-46363 Fuel Line Release Tool."
    Finding this tool is next to impossible. After many hours of searching the net I came up with this information and though it would be important to share. You can only buy it from this place. SPX Kent-Moore Tools
    You have to call the number and give them the tool # you want. Otherwise the dealer will have to change your filter for you as there is no other way to do it.

    Good Luck, I'm due to change too.
  • cbett1cbett1 Member Posts: 9
    Aaaaaamazing! Sounds alot like the $40 wrench I had to buy to seperate the fan clutch from the water pump on my '96 Z71! It seems to me they waste more money developing this new crap that justifies their overpriced shop fees and requirement for special tools. So did you purchase one (is it for rent?) or are you taking it to the shop? I found your site you refered to and requested price and availability. Thanks you were a great help even if I didn't like the answer! Can you say HACKSAW and HOSE CLAMP?
  • medmed Member Posts: 2
    My wife’s “99 Sub 4X4 will start but dies after a few seconds. I have replaced the fuel pump, filter etc. but the problem persists. I believe it is a Passlock failure because she tells me the “SECURITY” light came on intermittently before onset of problem. Oh yes, she and one of my daughters managed to destroy or lose both remote entry switches. I would like to bypass or otherwise defeat the security system as we live in an area where theft is rare and the vehicle is 6 years old so who cares anyway? Someone please help me get this thing running without costing me an arm and a leg. I want my truck back.
  • muffterrymuffterry Member Posts: 1
    I have a '90 that needs some heater/A/C parts. I have the unit apart however, I don't have the ability to identify any of the parts by their GM numbers. Therefore, I'm having a difficult time trying to order parts because I don't know what to call them. Is there anyone out there that knows of a website or a email address that has an exploded view of parts? I would very much appreciate knowing where to get a view of parts.

    thanks,

    muffterry
  • reils1reils1 Member Posts: 1
    After the "check engine" light came on, the code that the computer found was the crankshaft position sensor. When going through the Hanyes Manual it says that the car might need to have the firing order reset.My question is how do I reset the firing order, since I can replace the sensor myself or am I going to have to bring it to the chevy dealer to have it repaired. Thanks for any suggestions
  • cypresstxcypresstx Member Posts: 3
    We have a fully loaded 2004 Z71, since purchase we have had problems with fuses blowing, console faces, steering, DVD player, and stereo system being hot. One dealer measured the temps of various locations and found temps from 115 to 125. We have ejected DVD's that were too hot to touch. When we connect the boat trailer we have fuses blow. (this didn't happen with the 1996 suburban we traded in or when we hook our trailer to another suburban) We have had the vehicle in the shop 6 times for various problems - they have said they can't duplicate or the the temps of 115-125 are normal temps for the electronics. We have also had problems with brakes vibrating and loud noise., they have duplicated but haven't been able to fix. The dealer we bought the vehicle Marshall Chev in TX told us to file lemon law. Chev has offered us an extended warranty, but could not guarantee that the problems would be fix. My email is jb_cox @ yahoo . com Any suggestions or feedback?
  • hdsmasonhdsmason Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Suburban's temp gauge goes to max and when I turn on the heater it blows cold air. If I rev the engine up the gauge goes down and the air warms up. Is this an indication of a bad thermostat or a bad water pump?
  • hdsmasonhdsmason Member Posts: 2
    More info. I discovered that there was very little fluid in the radiator. After filling it the temp ran normal but the lower radiator hose never got warm. The upper hose was very hot. I also noticed that the fluid in the radiator was not moving. I thought it would circulate once the thermastat opened.
  • 2005burb2005burb Member Posts: 3
    I get 19 MPG on the hwy per the trip computer. It drops to 15.5 mls for local and hovers about 17 for mixed hyw in city driving.
  • 2005burb2005burb Member Posts: 3
    I have a gray 05 burb with 7000 mls, I recently noticed that the paint on the hood was faded and almost looks like it had over-spray on it. Also noticed were small areas around the door edges where the paint was flaking off. The doors were not banged on anything and the truck in the garage all day. The dealers agree to re-paintg the hood but refuses to repaint the door edges. Is anyone else having any probs with there paint job?
  • dick4dick4 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new fuel filter and went to change it and had trouble finding the darned thing! Could someone help me locate it? Do I need any special tools? Are there any tricks in changing a fuel filter on a vehicle with fuel injection? The package made reference to possibly needing to relieve pressure in the system before removing the old filter. Thank you.
  • billb1billb1 Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my 1995 Suburban its whole life. Its got 160,000 miles and runs great. The master cylinder has a small leak and the A/C is weak, other than that no sign of any problems. I have changed the oil every 3000 miles along with other regular maintanance. How long can I expect the Transmission and engine to last? I am trying to decide if I should sell it now while it still has some value or wait and take a chance on putting alot of money into it in the future. Another thing, the mechanic that maintained it for the last 10 years retired and closed up shop and I haven't been able to find a new one.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Member Posts: 244
    Could be much worse. I had the same thing happen on my 99 and it turned out to be a leak in the intake manifold gasket due to "Deathcool" antifreeze. Do a search on dexcool problems. Had to pull the intake and put in new gaskets.
  • burbmomburbmom Member Posts: 4
    Hi all ,
    I am new to this forum. I have a 2000 chevy suburban LT . I love it. I have a question for those who work on their burbs themselves. Is it worth for me to take my burb in for the throttle body to be cleaned or is this something that is relatively easy to do ??
    My gas pedal has been sticking awfully and I read on this forum and someplace else that this will solve the problem.
    thanks in advance =)
  • deaconlewdeaconlew Member Posts: 2
    There are no special tools. The filter is located on the frame between the driver side front and rear door. There are not any tricks, just becareful when the line is disconnected, there will be some spillage. Other than that you are good to go.

    -DeaconLew ;)
  • drivenutsdrivenuts Member Posts: 1
    Here's a new one for you!.
    About two months ago I noticed a "rattelling/squeeking" sound comming from under the front carriage of my 2003 suburban> Sounded like the "chirping" you hear from the brakes when worn but woulddissapear after 1/10th of a mile or so. No specific reason or conditions it would appear under but it was loud and very noticable. Had brakes, new tires, and front end redone- no luck! still there- ideas?
  • gkleegklee Member Posts: 1
    gfergie - My 1999 Suburban has the same thing going on...I replaced the combination flasher switch (under the dash) hoping for an inexpensive fix. The problem is still there...were you able to solve the flasher problem..if so, how?
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I have an '00 LS w/ 50k miles and about 2 months ago my throttle was sticking also. I went to a auto parts store and picked up an aerosol can of Throttle body/intake cleaner. I removed the air intake at the opening of the throttle body and sprayed the cleaner in while opening and closing the throttle. This fixed the sticking and haven't had any issues since.
  • burban93burban93 Member Posts: 2
    :lemon: a 4x4 surburban with good truck michlins tires is the best 4x4 u could have. one question though, if u live where there is snow, why did u buy a 2 wd surburban? trade yours in on a 4x4! good luck! :)
  • burban93burban93 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 93 2500 3/4 ton burban and i had a/c problems as well in the rear vents. after calling several mechanics and chevy dealers i found out it was an orphus tube or screen filter or whatever u want to call it, was probably plugged. i had no idea how to get to it nor what it looked like nor how to fix it really. i called ghent cheverlet here in greeley co. and the nice man explained the details and printed me out sheets from the computer that shows all the parts and how to reconnect them. i guess my advice to u is contact a respected delership and talk to the parts dept. to see if they could help you in the same way or try chilton books. i wish you luck i know i needed it! :)
  • cbett1cbett1 Member Posts: 9
    Usually they've been close to the transmission crossmember on the drivers side. The trick to relieve the pressure is locating the schrader valve on the fuel line near the top of the intake manifold. Then if your new fuel filter has threaded fittings on each end you won't need a fuel line removal tool. I'm not sure when Chev changed over but on my '03 Burb I needed a fuel line removal tool. Have fun!
  • cbett1cbett1 Member Posts: 9
    Well last night was the night! Not able to justify a $40 removal tool I made a quick trip to AZ and I'm bringing home a $10 fuel line disconnect tool. I relieved the pressure at the shrader valve and got the filter off no problem. The trouble was getting the hose off the filter. The connector was soo close to the can that the removal tool wouldn't get in there to release the quick clip. So I hack sawed it off between the hose and filter and was then able to get in there with my modified disconnect tool and some needle nose so I could remove the nipple from inside the hose. Only took me an hour but hey - it was time well spent!
  • mtbrtwmtbrtw Member Posts: 1
    I have several rattles in my doors on my 97, do I need to replace the seals to rid the problem?
  • dmiller2005dmiller2005 Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2005 suburban with about 5K miles on it. When we stop the car (and sometimes while we are driving it) we hear popping and pinging noises coming from underneath. We have been told that it has to do witht he catalytic converter and the heat shield, and that it is normal, but the noise is awfully loud, and this just does not seem right...anyone have this experience, or can add any input? Thanks! :confuse:
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Virtually EVERY '03-'05 model of these SUV's has this problem, and it is extremely annoying. All came about when GM cheapened several components a couple years ago, one of those being the exhaust. Some have said it went away around 10k miles, others have had the dealer work on it and have gotten new exhaust systems that have either still made noise or been relatively quiet, and others, like us, have had the noise since day one and have just lived with it--but it is as loud as ever at 14k miles.

    On our '04 Suburban, as soon as it's warmed up, you can hear the LOUD popping from the exhaust both when driving slowly, and especially when stopped and idling. Our '02 Avalanche was absolutely silent, but this thing, as we refer to it, sounds like a "popcorn popper".

    Some have found the only true fix is to replace the stock system with an aftermarket cat-back one, but we have no desire to do so. If GM had an actual fix, we'd take it in, but as of now, it's still considered an "engineers still working on it" issue.
  • ed1369ed1369 Member Posts: 1
    My Chevy dealer has been searching for this problem for several visits. The on board computer keeps showing 2 lean codes, PO 171 and PO 174. The 2 rear
    oxygen sensors have been changed, along with the fuel pressure regulator about a week ago. Help please. ed1369
  • rlsharperlsharpe Member Posts: 3
    I've the same on '03 GMC Yukon. Friend noted one must cut off with a hack saw at the filter, then remove that from within the quick connect (really - how about disconnect) with a special tool. I found Ken-Co has a tool for this #3113, but sells only to pros. :)
  • arkitectarkitect Member Posts: 75
    does anyone know a good restoration company that works on 1983 suburans

    any info is appreciated
  • chevyladychevylady Member Posts: 1
    My truck will start only after cranking for a little bit and then it will run for about a minute then die. It will start again the same way and die again. It will not keep running. My father-in-law and husband did some work on the electrical system to correct a problem with the tail lights blowing the fuse and seemed to fix that issue. This is when the running problem started. Do anyone have any ideas what might have happened or what could have gone bad.
  • jeff090jeff090 Member Posts: 1
    Anybody have any experience with mysterious voltage drops? Just sitting there, my 99 suburban will have a drop in battery voltage...10 volts +/- is not uncommon. I'll charge the batt or jump it and once started, the alternator gets to worl and volt meter shows about 16.5 or so. After a brief period it will get back in the normal range (14.5 or so) showing that it took the alternator's charge and things are cool. But let the car sit for hours and wham...it's back down again. It's not the battery...did the same thing with two different batteries. Cables appear to be okay, no problems with lights or switches. Any ideas what could be silently sapping my battery? Ignition switch? Other?

    Thanks
  • texnmantexnman Member Posts: 2
    I've got the same problem w/my 2004! I realized the "chirping" noise at about 33k miles. Seems to be coming from somewhere up front most of the time. I've heard it come from the rear as well. Recently the noise has been prolonged for about 2-3 seconds and has gotten louder. I thought maybe it was the wheels when in motion, but figured it wasn't when I heard the noise numerous times when idling in PARK. I've learned to tune it out but would really like to figure it out before this potential problem gets worse. :confuse:
  • koreanvetkoreanvet Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94, 2500 2wd, 6.5 with 240,000 miles that is still going strong as far as the eng and tranny. Have had a few electrical problems and the AC is not working after many repairs. Shakes and rattles but still a stump puller. Can jerk a 4500 lb tractor out of the mud thats sitting on the ground. Gets 21 mpg going down interstate and 15-18 mpg around town. Going to drive it another 10 yrs unless they come out with a diesel.
  • texnmantexnman Member Posts: 2
    I used to have a 2000 Chevy Silverado P/U and had the same problem with the gas pedal sticking. Fortunately at the time, mine was still under warranty, so the throttle body was replaced.
    As far as the difficulty level, I'm not too sure. But I would at lease attempt it along with the help of my Chilton's Repair Manual.
  • carcrazy3carcrazy3 Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with my 2000 model. I sprayed the backside of the idler pulley (beside the alternator) and it went away. every once in a while it chirps after idling. I am going to replace the pulley. they are $40 from GM. and are a known problem. hope this helps
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