I am in the same boat as you. I like the Chevy alot. Heard alot of good things about it. I've been leaning toward the Dodge. Alot of guys in my club have Dodges and seem to be satisfied with them. One thing they have mentioned is that if you are going to use it alot for towing, you are better with the six speed. I personally intend to tow probably ten or twelve times a year and will not be using it for commercial use. I have been holding back from purchasing a diesel because of all the talk about the new diesel fuel coming out. Dodge tells me that in general their trucks are good to go with the new fuel. Can't get a straight answer from GMC or Chevy. I would appreciate it if you or someone else on the list could clarify my concerns about the new diesel fuel with the 06 trucks. Would I be better off waiting for 07 or are the new diesel trucks with the new emissions going to be a bigger headache. Thanks.
If congress will stop accepting all the oil money and get some real deisel research going we might have some good diesel vehicles in the US. Diesels can be built to burn as clean as a gas engine.
I would love to see Dodge & Chysler add a diesel to their mini vans. Maybe go back to the smaller versions and get away from the grands with all the fancy power doors and fancy fold down seats. Get real safety and real fuel economy.
they need to make the small diesel eng. sleeved like the big trucks plus look at fuels instead of exhaust filters junk just to take HP away brio-fuel corn seed what ever it takes OL well see ya
Chrysler has diesels in their minivans but they are in Europe. As to getting away from the fancy-shmancy stuff I agree with you, but the manufacturers load their products with these items to keep up with the "Joneses" (Imports from Japan and Korea).
For those of us who use diesel power, I see us being ahead of everyone else. The American public, for the most part, views diesels with the 1980's in mind, namely smokey, noisy and gutless. A few days ago, I ran into someone at a filling station while refueling my Jeep Liberty CRD. He was driving a small Lexus SUV, RX330. I asked him about the FE he was getting with his Lexus and then told him my Liberty was diesel powered. The guy stated that diesels were so noisy and smelly. I replied that my Jeep was running (I was waiting in line). I thought that the guy's head was going to fall off as he was so shocked.
Hi all. I've got a 1981 Isuzu I-Mark diesel. I need a rocker arm or the whole assembly. Both my mechanic and I have had no success in finding it in a month. I believe the same engine was used in the 1982 Chevette and the Holden Gemini from Australia. Please contact me directly if you have any ideas. Thank you for your time. Anand :sick:
my duramax turns over but wont fire unless i use starting fluid I calld GM they don't make a repair manual, only online for dealers use only that ain't right also can't get parts from local part houses hav any ideas on this cheapest 1st please
i have a 2001 dodge diesel with a automatic tran. and its not wanting to shift out of first unless you let off throttle then it will go through all gears. i replaced the tranducer and solenoid that wasnt it. what else could it be? any ideas?
Hi Folks, I am in the market for a tow vehicle. I am looking at towing a 5th wheel 12000 to 14000 lbs. I am thinking new Chevy or Ford diesel, any comments would be greatly appreciated.
my father would like to try and squeeze a chevy luv diesel into a kia sportage. Is this even possible? I have never heard of anything remotely like it before.
ANYTHING is possible, if you have the time and the money.
If no one has ever done something, there could be a reason for this but if he wants a hobby, then why not? I suspect there is no LUV engine-to-Kia transmission adapters out there, so that will have to be made...or I guess he could install an entire LUV 4X4 drivetrain into a Sportage. Given the weight of a Sportage, and the horsepower of that Isuzu-built diesel (58 horsepower), this vehicle is not going anywhere fast.
Or he could have another beer and re-think this whole thing
how bio-diesel would help the U.S. become less dependent on foreign oil? Does it really burn cleaner than gasoline or regular diesel? Is there a large supply of it or can it be easily made? How plentiful is it? Thanks, in advance.
You may actually want to goggle this and then ask the question again. It is SO advantaneous on SO many levels, that any one would sound like a used car salesman in white patent shoes and plaid pants with the answer to peace in our time and the end to war, if they start to answer your question/s.
Have a 2002 Dodge TCD with 85K. On highway driving when I slow from 70 to 50 and try to accelerate the engine does not respond. The engine doesn't die, it keeps running at 1500rpm but it doesn't respond to the accelerator. In about 5-10seconds it will finally kick in. Anyone seen this?
Don't know the particulars of this engine but sounds like the actual physical throttle rod or whatever opens the air flow in the intake. In other words, it sounds mechanical in nature not electronic.
I have the 04 Dodge Crew cab 4x4 and am frustrated in trying to completely fill the fuel tank. Usually takes 5 minutes to put the last 4-5 gal. in the tank. The foaming diesel and small filler neck just don't let it fill correctly. Has anyone been able to resolve this problem on the Dodge?
It's not the filler neck. It's the design of the tank... the vent tube is located in such a position that a large air bubble is created and causes some backpressure.
There are two ways around this... use the slow-fill setting on the pump from the beginning, or there are aftermarket kits to relocate the vent. Because of what the kit does, it will void any warranty on the tank, but installed correctly, it not only fills the tank faster, but even allows you to use the built-in "slosh area" of the tank.
My 1990 7.3 international diesel is very hard to get started. Once it starts it runs great.
When I first turn the key (after glow plug light goes out) it will fire then stall. I try pumping the heck out of the pedal but it does not seem to help. From there I have to crank and crank and crank. Finally it will start. If it sits for 6-8 hours it will have same problem.
I was told to check glow plugs. Removed all plugs and with jumper wire I connected to battery and grounded the housings. All plugs glowed instantly.
I think I am lousing prime. There are no signs of fuel leakage.
I did replace fuel filter a while back (it was leaking)
If I knew a good honest mechanic I would take it to get looked at but am afraid I will get ripped off.
Just got mine back from the Dealer and he told me that it was the lift pump and injector pump. Which they can replace for $3500.00.... Yikes!!!!!! Unfortunately, they cannot tell me how they came to that conclusion. The truck is running so I am going to replace the lift pump first and install a set of pressure gauges to monitor the fuel pressure. If the problem persist then I know to replace the injector pump. Email me at jcobarruvias@satx.rr.com and I will let you know how I made out.
If I knew a good honest mechanic I would take it to get looked at but am afraid I will get ripped off. Ouch, that smarted.
Ok, how did you test the glowplugs again? Are both batteries in good condition? Yes, they will have an affect on the glowplugs.
Next thing, check that the return hoses aren't falling apart and collapsing. They are the rubber hoses that go across to each injector. Any leaks at the injectors?
When it finally starts, how bad does it smoke? How many miles are on this engine?
Ok, now that I asked a bunch of questions, a WAG would be that you have an injector or 2 that are leaking down. When that happens, it has a flooding affect and can cause similar symptoms.
I've run into several where the lift pumps were failing and several where the owners had allowed the fuel filters to stay in too long and caused power loss problems.
But, without knowing what they did and what they checked, it is hard to tell.
I have a diesel vanagon and think I have an injector problem.When I go to start it,the rubber fuel return line and or the rubber plug fly off due to excessive pressure and fuel flys everywhere. the vehicle starts and will still run roughly but it appears as though the pressure is dumping large amounts of fuel through that injector and consecuently blowing off the return line.Is my injector in need of repair?Please help!! Paul
No, more than likely, you have a blockage in the return. Which would cause pressure on the return line and blow the hose off. I would suspect one of the rubber return hoses has collapsed. I seriously doubt you have an injector problem. Fuel runs through the injectors all the time. The injectors don't regulate preussure, so you are on the wrong path.
I can't answer your question, but my truck does have a harder time staring in colder weather (I'm positive it is time for glow plugs as they have 90k+ on them, but lonts of long distance driving). It is currently in the shop because the the fuel filter/water separator developed some really bad leaks at the point where the wires enter at the top to heat the fuel, and the drain tube off the bottom busted off. Simultaneously, the braided fuel line developed a pin hole and sprayed fuel all over.
It took them a week to find the correct parts (fuel filter and wires, etc).
I just got off the phone with my mechanic (who hasn't done me wrong yet) and he mentioned that the rubber hoses to each glow plug (or did he say injector) are OEM, look bad and need to be replaced. Which sounds like the same thing the mechanic above mentions.
'92 Ford 7.3L diesel, 2 tanks, ~ 140k miles, almost always in S. FL.
Both tanks about 1/4 tank full of some kind of junk that clogs the fuel lines and starts to cut off the motor if I let the fuel tanks get too low.
1) I see ads for additives for anti-gel and anti-fungus. I've tried the anti-gel but it doesn't seem to work. Should I try anti-fungus additive?
2) Is there some way to suck out this gel with a vacuum hose or pump?
3) I plan on keeping the truck at least another 100k miles baring any complications. Should I not worry about this as long as it doesn't get higher than 1/4 tank?
4) I am pulling a 12k pound Fifth Wheeler. Is there any possibility of some amounts of gunk getting sucked up thru the fuel lines and causing other problems? (i.e. I just had to replace the fuel filter/heater/water seperator & wiring to that), and rubber fuel line just popped a leak same time. Is it possible that some "gunk" is causing some kind of back pressure?
5) Should I pull the tank and get it cleaned out?
The truck is still at the mechanic. I don't mind spending the money. Have had this old truck since day one.
You don't have gel, that's a cold weather issue. You probably have of all things---algae! You need what they call a bio-cide. If the grunge is too thick you probably need to drain the tanks and replace the filters. Otherwise, if you don't drop the tanks and have them cleaned, you'll be hassled in the future. Your filters can't trap THAT much junk, if you have a great deal of it.
Was pulling 12,000lbs trailer up a hill truck would down shift but would lose power until about 40 mph then would pick up speed again. Did that once then went into limp mode would not go over 25mph and check engine light came on. Turned off truck restarted ran fine but light was still on only for a few days then turned off. Once home hooked up code reader and came up low fuel rail pressure reset code then a day later truck stopped running going down the road and would not restart I replaced the fuel filter right there primed the system and it started right up. Have hooked the reader up to it to see what codes and there are no codes. Do you think it was just a filter problem or do I have an injector going out ?
Clogged filters are the bane of diesel engines, so you might have gotten it. A poor spray pattern will cause loss of power and drop in fuel economy. I don' t think it would trigger that code though, since pressure would be good even to a bad injector.
Agree with Mr Shiftright. (again) :shades: More than likely, there are 1 or 2 glow plugs that are shot. Pretty common. I will say this. If you are strapped for cash, you can locate bad glow plugs with a test light or ohm meter. There is a way to do it.
But honestly, I would replace all 8. They are about $8 each, depending on where you get them. The rubber hoses that go to the injectors are the return hoses and over time crack and leak. When you replace the rubber hoses, also replace the o-rings on the caps that the hoses attach to. Contact your Ford dealer and they have a kit with the hoses and o-rings for about $23.
As stated this truck is only used occasionally so as long as I could get it started and with limited time it took me a while to get into checking things out.
I found a very very small fuel leak. Replaced fuel hose and it starts instantly now.
All fuel hoses - done check. First time in a long time haven't smelled diesel.
Glow plugs next. Just the plugs or is there anything else that needs to be replaced at the same time? I saw something about electrical wires somewhere, but wasn't sure if the wires get replaced or if the wires just hook up to the glow plugs.
My dad is a mechanical engineer and would like to replace these for me, but he's not a diesel mechanic (but otherwise very much a mechanic and trouble shooter). Is this fairly easy for someone who hasn't done this before?
Algae - that's what it probably is. The algae gunk starts to get sucked up into the fuel lines at about 1/4 tank. That sounds like too much to kill and then try to suck dead algae up thru the lines/filters to get it out, right?
I do change the fuel filter every other oil change, unless I accidently get some of that stuff sucked up into the filter, then I change it as soon as possible. This is the fuel filter / water separator. You stated "filters". Is there more than one filter that I need to track down?
Ford quoted me $599 to drop and clean the fuel tanks. That seems a bit high. Is this a difficult job and can any mechanic pretyy much do this? The mechanic I've been using has been good so far.
The same thing happened to me. I was pulling the 12k trailer up a hill, truck downshifted, lost power to 45 mph, and didn't resume power until I got over the hill. But - the next week is when multiple fuel leaks were found.
Wound up replacing all the rubber return lines, parts in the fuel filter/water seperator (leaking bad). Once those were fixed, the next weak link went, the fuel pump.
Sometime before the end of the month will be tackling that big hill again and see if I lose power down to 45 mph. Long ago, I used to pull a heavy horse trailer (fully loaded about 10k), and didn't lose power, although it would downshift.
Will try to remember to post the results of going over the hill the next time... I'm going to guess if no power loss, fixing all the fuel leaks did the trick. From my guess, the fuel filter/water seperator & fuel pump were the culprits (as opposed to the rubber hoses - part of the return system) --- or maybe all of them together.
The glow plugs are like spark plugs. A 10mm deep socket and extension (I prefer an extenstion with a wobbly tip) will be needed. And a pair of needle nose vise grips for teh glow plugs that are a little stubborn coming out.
The 2 center ones on each side are a it of a bear, you may need to unbolt the clamp that hoses the injector lines together to get the socket and extension in there.
Some of the blow plugs may be swelled and a little hard to get them to come out. Use the needle nose vice grips to gently work them out of the hole. DO NOT force them to hard, as you can break the tip off and that wouldn't be good. Put a small dab of never sieze on the threads before installing them.
:confuse: I heard a couple of weeks ago that Ford had a recal on the older 7.3 trucks. Has anyone heard what this is about or when they will send out the recall notice? I own a 2001 Excursion and have not recieved a notice yet. Thanks
ok, my son accidentally put abt 4 gals of unleaded gas in my deisel..waaahhh!!! I had abt a half tank of diesel already in it, but not knowing this I drove it abt 5 miles when it stalled and, of course wouldnt restart. I had it towed to my mechanic hoping he can cyphon the mix out of it and run new diesel in it and replace the fuel filter. Do these models have a sensor where they detect gas and automatically shut down? Im sick abt it.
Comments
Thanks.
If congress will stop accepting all the oil money and get some real deisel research going we might have some good diesel vehicles in the US. Diesels can be built to burn as clean as a gas engine.
I would love to see Dodge & Chysler add a diesel to their mini vans. Maybe go back to the smaller versions and get away from the grands with all the fancy power doors and fancy fold down seats. Get real safety and real fuel economy.
We want to see an average of 30 mpg.
Jimmy
For those of us who use diesel power, I see us being ahead of everyone else. The American public, for the most part, views diesels with the 1980's in mind, namely smokey, noisy and gutless. A few days ago, I ran into someone at a filling station while refueling my Jeep Liberty CRD. He was driving a small Lexus SUV, RX330. I asked him about the FE he was getting with his Lexus and then told him my Liberty was diesel powered. The guy stated that diesels were so noisy and smelly. I replied that my Jeep was running (I was waiting in line). I thought that the guy's head was going to fall off as he was so shocked.
http://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm
73s
Adrian
thanks
Joe
If no one has ever done something, there could be a reason for this but if he wants a hobby, then why not? I suspect there is no LUV engine-to-Kia transmission adapters out there, so that will have to be made...or I guess he could install an entire LUV 4X4 drivetrain into a Sportage. Given the weight of a Sportage, and the horsepower of that Isuzu-built diesel (58 horsepower), this vehicle is not going anywhere fast.
Or he could have another beer and re-think this whole thing
Kettle Chips and biodiesel
http://www.kettlefoods.com/index.php?cID=227
There are two ways around this... use the slow-fill setting on the pump from the beginning, or there are aftermarket kits to relocate the vent. Because of what the kit does, it will void any warranty on the tank, but installed correctly, it not only fills the tank faster, but even allows you to use the built-in "slosh area" of the tank.
kcram - Pickups Host
My 1990 7.3 international diesel is very hard to get started. Once it starts it runs great.
When I first turn the key (after glow plug light goes out) it will fire then stall. I try pumping the heck out of the pedal but it does not seem to help. From there I have to crank and crank and crank. Finally it will start. If it sits for 6-8 hours it will have same problem.
I was told to check glow plugs. Removed all plugs and with jumper wire I connected to battery and grounded the housings. All plugs glowed instantly.
I think I am lousing prime. There are no signs of fuel leakage.
I did replace fuel filter a while back (it was leaking)
If I knew a good honest mechanic I would take it to get looked at but am afraid I will get ripped off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Jim
CANT FIND OUT WHAT IS CAUSING IT.
EVEN DEALER DOESNT KNOW. PLEASE HELP
Unfortunately, they cannot tell me how they came to that conclusion. The truck is running so I am going to replace the lift pump first and install a set of pressure gauges to monitor the fuel pressure. If the problem persist then I know to replace the injector pump. Email me at jcobarruvias@satx.rr.com and I will let you know how I made out.
Ouch, that smarted.
Ok, how did you test the glowplugs again?
Are both batteries in good condition? Yes, they will have an affect on the glowplugs.
Next thing, check that the return hoses aren't falling apart and collapsing.
They are the rubber hoses that go across to each injector.
Any leaks at the injectors?
When it finally starts, how bad does it smoke?
How many miles are on this engine?
Ok, now that I asked a bunch of questions, a WAG would be that you have an injector or 2 that are leaking down.
When that happens, it has a flooding affect and can cause similar symptoms.
But, without knowing what they did and what they checked, it is hard to tell.
Which would cause pressure on the return line and blow the hose off.
I would suspect one of the rubber return hoses has collapsed.
I seriously doubt you have an injector problem.
Fuel runs through the injectors all the time. The injectors don't regulate preussure, so you are on the wrong path.
I can't answer your question, but my truck does have a harder time staring in colder weather (I'm positive it is time for glow plugs as they have 90k+ on them, but lonts of long distance driving). It is currently in the shop because the the fuel filter/water separator developed some really bad leaks at the point where the wires enter at the top to heat the fuel, and the drain tube off the bottom busted off. Simultaneously, the braided fuel line developed a pin hole and sprayed fuel all over.
It took them a week to find the correct parts (fuel filter and wires, etc).
I just got off the phone with my mechanic (who hasn't done me wrong yet) and he mentioned that the rubber hoses to each glow plug (or did he say injector) are OEM, look bad and need to be replaced. Which sounds like the same thing the mechanic above mentions.
GL
Both tanks about 1/4 tank full of some kind of junk that clogs the fuel lines and starts to cut off the motor if I let the fuel tanks get too low.
1) I see ads for additives for anti-gel and anti-fungus. I've tried the anti-gel but it doesn't seem to work. Should I try anti-fungus additive?
2) Is there some way to suck out this gel with a vacuum hose or pump?
3) I plan on keeping the truck at least another 100k miles baring any complications. Should I not worry about this as long as it doesn't get higher than 1/4 tank?
4) I am pulling a 12k pound Fifth Wheeler. Is there any possibility of some amounts of gunk getting sucked up thru the fuel lines and causing other problems? (i.e. I just had to replace the fuel filter/heater/water seperator & wiring to that), and rubber fuel line just popped a leak same time. Is it possible that some "gunk" is causing some kind of back pressure?
5) Should I pull the tank and get it cleaned out?
The truck is still at the mechanic. I don't mind spending the money. Have had this old truck since day one.
Diesels by nature have a hard time starting in cold weather. They need optimum glow heat and optimum additive protection in cold weather.
So new glow plugs, fuel conditioner (anti-gel) and new hoses if they are leaking or cracked.
More than likely, there are 1 or 2 glow plugs that are shot. Pretty common.
I will say this. If you are strapped for cash, you can locate bad glow plugs with a test light or ohm meter. There is a way to do it.
But honestly, I would replace all 8. They are about $8 each, depending on where you get them.
The rubber hoses that go to the injectors are the return hoses and over time crack and leak. When you replace the rubber hoses, also replace the o-rings on the caps that the hoses attach to. Contact your Ford dealer and they have a kit with the hoses and o-rings for about $23.
As stated this truck is only used occasionally so as long as I could get it started and with limited time it took me a while to get into checking things out.
I found a very very small fuel leak. Replaced fuel hose and it starts instantly now.
Again thanks to all who posted.
Jim
Glow plugs next. Just the plugs or is there anything else that needs to be replaced at the same time? I saw something about electrical wires somewhere, but wasn't sure if the wires get replaced or if the wires just hook up to the glow plugs.
My dad is a mechanical engineer and would like to replace these for me, but he's not a diesel mechanic (but otherwise very much a mechanic and trouble shooter). Is this fairly easy for someone who hasn't done this before?
I do change the fuel filter every other oil change, unless I accidently get some of that stuff sucked up into the filter, then I change it as soon as possible. This is the fuel filter / water separator. You stated "filters". Is there more than one filter that I need to track down?
Ford quoted me $599 to drop and clean the fuel tanks. That seems a bit high. Is this a difficult job and can any mechanic pretyy much do this? The mechanic I've been using has been good so far.
Wound up replacing all the rubber return lines, parts in the fuel filter/water seperator (leaking bad). Once those were fixed, the next weak link went, the fuel pump.
Sometime before the end of the month will be tackling that big hill again and see if I lose power down to 45 mph. Long ago, I used to pull a heavy horse trailer (fully loaded about 10k), and didn't lose power, although it would downshift.
Will try to remember to post the results of going over the hill the next time... I'm going to guess if no power loss, fixing all the fuel leaks did the trick. From my guess, the fuel filter/water seperator & fuel pump were the culprits (as opposed to the rubber hoses - part of the return system) --- or maybe all of them together.
Will have to go there and ask him. Thanks for all the great stuff guys!!
A 10mm deep socket and extension (I prefer an extenstion with a wobbly tip) will be needed.
And a pair of needle nose vise grips for teh glow plugs that are a little stubborn coming out.
The 2 center ones on each side are a it of a bear, you may need to unbolt the clamp that hoses the injector lines together to get the socket and extension in there.
Some of the blow plugs may be swelled and a little hard to get them to come out.
Use the needle nose vice grips to gently work them out of the hole.
DO NOT force them to hard, as you can break the tip off and that wouldn't be good.
Put a small dab of never sieze on the threads before installing them.
kcram - Pickups Host