I think the XL stands for extra long, but i'm not sure.
Obyone I don't remember seeing XL on the Galaxys, but I've seen alot of Ford pickups with XL and XLT. I really think they should have left the name alone.
Someone mentioned that when they made modifications to the exhaust or air intake, that the instructions in their kit recommended to disconnect the battery for 20 (?) minutes to clear the "learned" memory in the computer. I guess that this was so that the system would start and re-learn from base defaults. The only thing I would caution about is not to have an appointment for an emmission inspection the next day as the computer also has to report that everything it monitors regarding emmissions has completed. Some states' inspection stations won't run test if the software reports this on the scan tool they use. Someone else reported that after they reconnected the battery, it took a lot of cranking to get the engine started. I think that the conversation took place in "Silverado XIII". Hope this helps. matthew
My 2000 LT made a clanging noise whever I would go over small sharp bumps. The dealer made sure everything was tight, and greased the shackles. Problem was still there. Today I found the cure myself. As it turns out, the lowest leaf ends hang down from the middle leaf by about 1/4 to 3/8". A sharp bump makes it hit the middle leaf, like a hammer to a gong. There are hard plastic discs on the ends to keep it quite, but don't work. I cut up an old wetsuit glove into 3" squares and put a little silicone adheseve on them. Using a large screwdriver I opened the gap between the leafs and slid in the wetsuit material. I did this to all 4 ends. Problem is gone. Now I wonder how long the pads I made will last. Time will tell.
The data you posted is a few years later than the texts I studied with. I'm notconvinced but I understand where your argument is based. I have never, and I still don't, advocate severe timing shifts. As you correctly pointed out, optimal performance across the rpm range must be a compromise of all aspects. In the example you gave, the author advocates lowering the octane and retarding the timing after TDC??? It is absolutely impossible to stop autoignition (caused by compression) with this technique. It might stop the knock but you just made your gasoline engine work like a very poor diesel engine. Autoignition/autodetonation is a funtion of PV=nRT where V,n and R are constant values when the intake valve closes. Volume is fixed due to the fact that the volume in consideration is the volume of air/fuel trapped inside the cylinder. So pressure and temp are the only two working variables. As the piston approaches TDC P (pressure) increases proportionally with T (temperature). Autoignition occurs, as you stated, when T exceeds the fuels ability to resist spontanious ignition. Ever hear a gas car diesel, or run on after the ignition has been switched off? Now the differene in ideology: autoignition can be prevented by advancing the timing because knock is not end gasses combusting but the original air/fuel mix. The cylinder and head design are made to promote mixing and efficient combustion of air/fuel as ignited by the spark plug. Knock that can be heard with the human ear is very severe. Basically its a bunch of little "thunderclaps" happening in your engine. By advancing the timing, the controlled ignition creates a wave front that overtakes any autoignition fronts before they can become destructively large. Yes, they still occur. Yes, the increased pressure from ignition would iginite an unignited volume of air/fuel mix. This is somewhat (not completely) moot when the controled wave front is already burning. The pressure spike arguement applies to your model as well. By the reasoning you have been using, nothing can prevent knock because as soon as the fuel air ignites, regardless of timing, autoignition occurs due to pressure spike. The films I watched of this event(granted old b&W stuff)clearly showed how advanced timing smothers or prevented any stray combustion points. The difference in our two techniques (because they both appear to stop audible knock) is the end result. Retarding timing stops knock but at the cost of horsepower. I say this because energy capture, on a piston head running in front of the gas wave (ie. being pulled by the other cylinders), can not be as great as the enegry capture of a piston that catches the full force of the pressure spike. I think our points of view are rooted in the mentality of the authors at the time the texts were written. My author's view being power, power and more power. Your author's focus on fuel efficiency and performance from low output highly economical engines coupled with high efficiency gearing and overdive. Kind of a '60's muscle car vs 70/80's oil crisis mentality. Besides, PV=nRT rules this battle. If you get knock before TDC (ie. pressure and temp can only go up until TDC) then retarding the timing can't possibly have any effect because your spark will always occur after autoignition and get worse with each adjustment (doesn't sound like "end" gasses to me in this case).
Dean, You're right. No points but one heck of a fine computer. Your Hyper Tech III device has replaced the shade tree and screwdriver.
They do require drilling. Each muflap requires 3 screws (total of 12 for all 4 mudflaps). 2 of the 3 use existing holes and the third has to be drilled. Really no biggie only a 1/8" hole.
I am satisfied very much. Like with the bedrail caps the husky mudflaps were the only ones i could find that were made specially for the fender flares. They keep most dirt off the lower rear end and also save my nerf bars in the front from debris hitting them.
Kyle - i tried to upload them singally but it did the same thing.
Not to add more fuel to the fire, but I think the two of you are arguing the same point, with someone confusing what ignition retard and advance are.
Advance: Making the spark plug fire closer to TDC (simply put) than what would be "nominal".
Retard: Just the opposite, making the plug fire further away from TDC than what would be "nominal"
Now I know some older engines (early emissions era) fired at the very beginning of the exhaust stroke (after TDC), but they could get away with that because with unleaded fuel came lower compression ratios. In other words, even at TDC with cylinder pressures at their highest, the temperature still wasn't hot enough to ignite without a spark kernel (sans glowing carbon deposits and other "hot spots")
There is a difference between detonation and preignition as well, not just one being worse than the other.
Detonation is the fuel mixture exploding in the cylinder from too high of a temperature and/or pressure. It can be caused by a high inlet-air temperature, insufficient fuel octane rating, overadvanced ignition timing and an excessively lean fuel-air mixture.
Preignition on the other hand, is not an explosion, it is another flame front caused by hot spots that develop somewhere in the combustion chamber (i.e. red hot spark plug electrode, glowing carbon deposits on piston head, etc.) Preignition is what causes the two flame fronts (one being from the hotspot, the other being from the plug) to collide, and create the much loathed "ping" in some engines. Preignition is also what causes older gasoline engines with carburetors and mechanical fuel pumps to "diesel", or run poorly without an electrical ignition source.
Not trying to start more controversy, just trying to clear things up, hope it helps.
Is backwards in post 586. Remember, you are adavncing the spark time from a point that is already before top dead center. To advance say from 4 degrees BTDC (such as on a '60s medium performance V8) to 8 degrees BTDC takes the spark firing 4 degrees further away from TDC.
Retarding places the spark firing closer to TDC, not further away from it.
Advance has nothing to do with varying it from "optimal," it has everything to do with moving in the direction from zero or ATDC to BTDC. Kind of like going from positive (after) temperatures toward negative temperatures (before). Retarding goes from negative temperatures (before) toward positive (after).
I believe in computer-contolled cars, initial spark advance is set to zero and the computer does the rest.
Does anyone have the GM shop manual on the 88-94 C/K trucks with the first go around of the TBI engine, ie. the TBI that sits right on top the intake like the old carbs? I am looking for information on how to adjust the idle on these engines? Ever since I replaced my intake manifold the truck has been idling up around 1500 rpm. It runs smooth now that the vacuum leak is gone, but I don't know why the idle jumped up so high? I bought an Idle Air Control Valve, and from the instructions I gather it can be adjusted, but I'm not having any success. If anyone has the manual, or any insight into why my idle would have jumped up after I fixed the leaking manifold gaskets, I would appreciate it. Oh, and to clear up the obvious, I have checked the throttle linkage and there is no binding, etc. Thanks, and have a great day.
1) Go to auto parts store and write a check for $50.00 for oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree. 2) Discover that the used oil container is full. Instead of taking it back to O'Reilly to recycle, dump in hole in back yard. 3) Open a beer and drink it. 4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands. 5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car. 6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it. 7) Place drain pan under engine. 8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench. 9) Give up and use crescent wrench. 10) Unscrew drain plug. 11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: get hot oil on you in process. 12) Clean up mess. 13) Have another beer while watching oil drain. 14) Look for oil filter wrench. 15) Give up; poke oil filter with screwdriver and twist off. 16) Beer. 17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Finish oil change tomorrow. 18) Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car. 19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18. 20) Beer. No, drank it all yesterday. 21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer. 22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface. 23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine. 24) Remember drain plug from step 11. 25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan. 26) Discover that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along with drain plug. 27) Drink beer. 28) Uncover hole and sift for drain plug. 29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. 30) Drink beer. 31) Slip with wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame. 32) Bang head on floor boards in reaction to step 31. 33) Begin cussing fit. 34) Throw wrench. 35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992) in the left boob. 35) Beer. 36) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow. 37) Beer. 38) Beer. 39) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil. 40) Beer. 41) Lower car from jack stands. 42) Accidentally crush one of the jack stands. 43) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during step 23. 44) Beer. 45) Test drive car. 46) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence. 47) Car gets impounded. 48) Make bail: Get car from impound yard. Money spent: $50.00 parts $25.00 beer $75.00 replacement set of jack stands: (hey the colors have to match!!!!) $1,000.00 Bail $200.00 Impound and towing fee $1,350.00 Total
There are a few of you that this really applies to. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!
liner's great. great installation, look, use, etc. completely satisfied...especially at only $300 for a utr. bed rail caps will go back on this weekend.
$300 damn my rhino was $274 haha that was with a $25 off coupon. Glad you like it im off to go find out about my tail light guards ill probably get my money back its been 46 days since i ordered em. It only took GM 28 days to build and ship my truck. This is really pissing me off.
thanks alot for telling my typical oil change dilema. only thing is, the cat hates me during that time cause guess where the used litter goes when i'm through.
Hey the line-x looks real nice. Looks like they did a good job. I noticed in your photo your bed caps were off, but i did not see any remanents of 3m tape or such. Exactly how do they attach? With one long piece of 3m tape along the rail, or just a couple pieces here and there. And if at a later date you want to remove them, is there a bunch of tape glue to remove or can you get it off easy? Didnt see any signs of glue on your truck. By the way i had rhino on my 94 f-150, and am definitly going with line-x, i like the texture of the material better. Ryan i guess you could probably anwswer my questions too, being you have the same caps thanks pat
This is better than Seinfeld! When I left on vacation a month ago, Ryan had just placed his order for those taillight guards. I finally got the time to tune in again today, and what is he talking about: Ordering taillight guards!
Hopefully, I'm laughing with you buddy, and not at you...
How do you get the little plastic covers over the bolts that hold the wiper arms off to get to the bolt? They don't seem to unscrew. There must be some trick.
If it's any consolation, a good portion of the money I set aside to order my 2001 disappeared during my vacation due to the slaughter of two stocks I am holding. I'll be whistling 'The wheels on the bus' for a few more months... Meantime, I get to quietly whimper everytime I see a Silverado. !#%!@# market...
Pardon me, I'll gladly pay you tuesday, for a z71 today...
Fluid for the auto trans case is probably a new part number. The "infamous" blue stuff....
Anybody got a part number for the blue auto transfer case stuff?
Replaced my front diff with 75W-90 M1. Transfer case with M1 synth ATF.
Manual tranny in 1/2 ton uses GM syncromesh fluid. A mixture of Zinc something, oil, and Kerosine...... Buy 3 quarts. The 3/4 ton (NV4500, I think) uses some other type of fluid.
You couldn't have explained advanced and retarded timing any better. We are on the same sheet there. I think we're having a disconnect on this because I haven't been looking at this as being caused by anything other than compression. In fact, my whole argument is based on compression as the only culprit If you consider hot spots such as wrong type of spark plugs, carbon deposits, etc. etc. then your argument begins to hold a lot more water. I can see how retarding timing would work. In a scenario where something other than compression is causing the autoignition, your point about lower combustion pressure at ignition is far more logical. I can see how pressure spike now becomes a factor as well. Thanks for stickin' with it. Its been enlightening. Now I can join in on the truely deep topics of mud guards, two tone piant combinations, and bed liners. Can't forget the oil changing stories either. There definitely weren't enough beers in that scenario( only one case??? with a buddy over??? come on). Someone asked about Snug Top brand caps. Been sporting one of those for several months. Great top.
Shop manual cost $126. Answer must be in one of the three books. Answer available for $126/3 = $42 plus lookup time....
LOL
I'll try to remember to look it up.
Anybody get 2001 HD's allocated yet? Still waiting on mine. I'm psyked that I will get to use my GMS discount along with my GM credit card $$$.
What's a 1999 base model 4.8L 5speed reg cab LB with lots of comfort and performance options and 26,000 miles worth at trade in? Paid about $22K. Guesses? Suspect $17k?
Only driven gently by 40 yr old geezer mechanical engineer....
With all the talk of ignition timing as of late, I was starting to confuse the two myself. However, most of what I posted earlier was pulled from my aircraft piston engine book, which is 3 years old.
Perhaps the terminology is different in automotive?
Ryan, Sorry to but in here, but even though you are correct, can't you simply collect more dollars to cover the difference? The Government seems to know how! matthew
Massachusetts, the land of the Kennedys, will put you in jail if you are carrying inside the vehicle. Must be locked in the truck and the case and ammo can't be in the same case. As I have to go across the line, can't carry...would be more than DUI! ouch! Would rather live in Texas but can't figure how to get my company to move me there without substantial economic loss! matthew
more beer...change oil...$1300 bucks that ought to be pocket change huh?
Oh yeah back to topic, my salesman said he has now a new green and an orange 2k1's on the lot. He is not impressed. He also indicated additional color expected, PURPLE?? Hey Barney the dinosaur! The S-10's were bad enough. Who is selecting colors in Warren, MI? Only thing Ford(ouch!) has going is good colors. matthew
dusty - yeah, all those footprints are permanent like ryan said...those marks don't go away. LOL
pat - the rail caps attach with 3m molding tape only. if you're dumb - like me - and you don't remove the wax first, the caps come off REAL easy just pull right up. there are a few marks there, nothing i couldn't remove with some bug n tar remover though...
they use segments of tape along the entire length of the cap (not one long piece). you can buy extra 3m molding tape at any auto parts store if you want to buff it up some...
email me at kwerking@aol.com if you want some details...
I carry too. Have a Bill Wilson cutom 1911. It's a tack driver. Also have my own reload that works fantastic with this pistol. Have concealed carry permit. Several States.
You may have a bad oxygen sensor. If it is reporting that the mixture is too lean then more gas goes in and the idle goes up. A mechanic told me that is also a symptom of a vacuum leak on O2 sensor equipped vehicles since it effectively makes the mixture too lean. Are you sure you don't have a new vacuum leak?
I ordered the Gibson swept side catback exhaust and was all excited when the shop called and said it came in. I rushed down to get it installed. They put the truck on the lift and got everything layed out. The first step was to remove the oxygen sensor, right? Odd thing was it didn't look like it had been securely tighted. It turned easily about a half turn and then stopped. Got bigger wrench with cheater and it still wouldn't budge. Just started to round the edges of the hex nut. No one could figure out a way to get the thing out so I left without my exhaust upgrade. Has anybody had this problem? Any suggestions what I can do? I can go buy a new sensor but that will cost another $113 that I don't think I should have to pay. Can I get the dealer to replace the sensor if it gets destroyed? This is really frustrating!!!!!!
Comments
Obyone I don't remember seeing XL on the Galaxys, but I've seen alot of Ford pickups with XL and XLT. I really think they should have left the name alone.
Earlier someone was talking about disconnecting the battery after having a catback exhaust put on,is this true and for how long.
Kirk
matthew
as for seats..my lumbar stays put..where I out it...it'll be one year tomorrow and 20K miles...I have had no problems yet!
- Tim
matthew
Autoignition/autodetonation is a funtion of PV=nRT where V,n and R are constant values when the intake valve closes. Volume is fixed due to the fact that the volume in consideration is the volume of air/fuel trapped inside the cylinder. So pressure and temp are the only two working variables. As the piston approaches TDC P (pressure) increases proportionally with T (temperature). Autoignition occurs, as you stated, when T exceeds the fuels ability to resist spontanious ignition. Ever hear a gas car diesel, or run on after the ignition has been switched off?
Now the differene in ideology: autoignition can be prevented by advancing the timing because knock is not end gasses combusting but the original air/fuel mix. The cylinder and head design are made to promote mixing and efficient combustion of air/fuel as ignited by the spark plug. Knock that can be heard with the human ear is very severe. Basically its a bunch of little "thunderclaps" happening in your engine. By advancing the timing, the controlled ignition creates a wave front that overtakes any autoignition fronts before they can become destructively large. Yes, they still occur. Yes, the increased pressure from ignition would iginite an unignited volume of air/fuel mix. This is somewhat (not completely) moot when the controled wave front is already burning. The pressure spike arguement applies to your model as well. By the reasoning you have been using, nothing can prevent knock because as soon as the fuel air ignites, regardless of timing, autoignition occurs due to pressure spike. The films I watched of this event(granted old b&W stuff)clearly showed how advanced timing smothers or prevented any stray combustion points.
The difference in our two techniques (because they both appear to stop audible knock) is the end result. Retarding timing stops knock but at the cost of horsepower. I say this because energy capture, on a piston head running in front of the gas wave (ie. being pulled by the other cylinders), can not be as great as the enegry capture of a piston that catches the full force of the pressure spike.
I think our points of view are rooted in the mentality of the authors at the time the texts were written. My author's view being power, power and more power. Your author's focus on fuel efficiency and performance from low output highly economical engines coupled with high efficiency gearing and overdive. Kind of a '60's muscle car vs 70/80's oil crisis mentality. Besides, PV=nRT rules this battle. If you get knock before TDC (ie. pressure and temp can only go up until TDC) then retarding the timing can't possibly have any effect because your spark will always occur after autoignition and get worse with each adjustment (doesn't sound like "end" gasses to me in this case).
Dean,
You're right. No points but one heck of a fine computer. Your Hyper Tech III device has replaced the shade tree and screwdriver.
Another .02 worth,
Phil
They do require drilling. Each muflap requires 3 screws (total of 12 for all 4 mudflaps). 2 of the 3 use existing holes and the third has to be drilled. Really no biggie only a 1/8" hole.
I am satisfied very much. Like with the bedrail caps the husky mudflaps were the only ones i could find that were made specially for the fender flares. They keep most dirt off the lower rear end and also save my nerf bars in the front from debris hitting them.
Kyle - i tried to upload them singally but it did the same thing.
Ryan
Advance: Making the spark plug fire closer to TDC (simply put) than what would be "nominal".
Retard: Just the opposite, making the plug fire
further away from TDC than what would be "nominal"
Now I know some older engines (early emissions era) fired at the very beginning of the exhaust stroke (after TDC), but they could get away with that because with unleaded fuel came lower compression ratios. In other words, even at TDC with cylinder pressures at their highest, the temperature still wasn't hot enough to ignite without a spark kernel (sans glowing carbon deposits and other "hot spots")
There is a difference between detonation and preignition as well, not just one being worse than the other.
Detonation is the fuel mixture exploding in the cylinder from too high of a temperature and/or pressure. It can be caused by a high inlet-air temperature, insufficient fuel octane rating, overadvanced ignition timing and an excessively lean fuel-air mixture.
Preignition on the other hand, is not an explosion, it is another flame front caused by hot spots that develop somewhere in the combustion chamber (i.e. red hot spark plug electrode, glowing carbon deposits on piston head, etc.) Preignition is what causes the two flame fronts (one being from the hotspot, the other being from the plug) to collide, and create the much loathed "ping" in some engines. Preignition is also what causes older gasoline engines with carburetors and mechanical fuel pumps to "diesel", or run poorly without an electrical ignition source.
Not trying to start more controversy, just trying to clear things up, hope it helps.
Leavy
Retarding places the spark firing closer to TDC, not further away from it.
Advance has nothing to do with varying it from "optimal," it has everything to do with moving in the direction from zero or ATDC to BTDC. Kind of like going from positive (after) temperatures toward negative temperatures (before). Retarding goes from negative temperatures (before) toward positive (after).
I believe in computer-contolled cars, initial spark advance is set to zero and the computer does the rest.
Denny
1) Go to auto parts store and write a check for $50.00 for oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree.
2) Discover that the used oil container is full. Instead of taking it back to O'Reilly to recycle, dump in hole in back yard.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: get hot oil on you in process.
12) Clean up mess.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Look for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; poke oil filter with screwdriver and twist off.
16) Beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Finish oil change tomorrow.
18) Next day, drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer. No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Discover that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28) Uncover hole and sift for drain plug.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor.
30) Drink beer.
31) Slip with wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floor boards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December (1992) in the left boob.
35) Beer.
36) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow.
37) Beer.
38) Beer.
39) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
40) Beer.
41) Lower car from jack stands.
42) Accidentally crush one of the jack stands.
43) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during step 23.
44) Beer.
45) Test drive car.
46) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
47) Car gets impounded.
48) Make bail: Get car from impound yard. Money spent:
$50.00 parts
$25.00 beer
$75.00 replacement set of jack stands: (hey the colors have to match!!!!)
$1,000.00 Bail $200.00 Impound and towing fee $1,350.00 Total
There are a few of you that this really applies to. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!
Tim was that story about you??? haha
Ryan
Ryan
http://www.picturetrail.com/kwerking/122579
ryan...sorry yours doesn't work. it works great for me...
kyle
kyle
http://www.tpcarguy.com/IBS/SimpleCat/Product/asp/product-id/66012.html
Looks like for the ext-cab Silverado (p/n: 26-1680) they run $351.94 and shipping is free.
I can get them locally in Everett at Tire & Wheel Country for $339.57 + tax, which makes the total price $367.75.
-David
- Tim
Ryan
dilema. only thing is, the cat hates me during
that time cause guess where the used litter goes
when i'm through.
...red
thanks
pat
I've been thinking about your response, and I just have to ask:
When you say advancing the ignition timing reduces knock, are you advancing it in the direction of rotation, or against the rotation of the engine.
I have to ask, because you see to have too much knowledge of what goes on inside an engine to miss something so basic.
Mike L
Hopefully, I'm laughing with you buddy, and not at you...
Dustyone
I am not laughing i am still pretty pissed.
Ryan
Peter
Meantime, I get to quietly whimper everytime I see a Silverado. !#%!@# market...
Pardon me, I'll gladly pay you tuesday, for a z71 today...
Anybody got a part number for the blue auto transfer case stuff?
Replaced my front diff with 75W-90 M1. Transfer case with M1 synth ATF.
Manual tranny in 1/2 ton uses GM syncromesh fluid. A mixture of Zinc something, oil, and Kerosine...... Buy 3 quarts. The 3/4 ton (NV4500, I think) uses some other type of fluid.
Now I can join in on the truely deep topics of mud guards, two tone piant combinations, and bed liners. Can't forget the oil changing stories either. There definitely weren't enough beers in that scenario( only one case??? with a buddy over??? come on). Someone asked about Snug Top brand caps. Been sporting one of those for several months. Great top.
Phil
LOL
I'll try to remember to look it up.
Anybody get 2001 HD's allocated yet? Still waiting on mine. I'm psyked that I will get to use my GMS discount along with my GM credit card $$$.
What's a 1999 base model 4.8L 5speed reg cab LB with lots of comfort and performance options and 26,000 miles worth at trade in? Paid about $22K. Guesses? Suspect $17k?
Only driven gently by 40 yr old geezer mechanical engineer....
Perhaps the terminology is different in automotive?
Hey Red and Tim shouldn't there have been a hand gun or a Remington pump under the seat as well?
LOL!
Seriously though, discussions like this promote stimulating thought regarding interesting subjects and we all get the benefits.
matthew
Ryan
Sorry to but in here, but even though you are correct, can't you simply collect more dollars to cover the difference? The Government seems to know how!
matthew
- Tim
matthew
Oh yeah back to topic, my salesman said he has now a new green and an orange 2k1's on the lot. He is not impressed. He also indicated additional color expected, PURPLE?? Hey Barney the dinosaur! The S-10's were bad enough. Who is selecting colors in Warren, MI? Only thing Ford(ouch!) has going is good colors.
matthew
pat - the rail caps attach with 3m molding tape only. if you're dumb - like me - and you don't remove the wax first, the caps come off REAL easy
they use segments of tape along the entire length of the cap (not one long piece). you can buy extra 3m molding tape at any auto parts store if you want to buff it up some...
email me at kwerking@aol.com if you want some details...
It's a tack driver.
Also have my own reload that works fantastic with this pistol.
Have concealed carry permit. Several States.
Paul