Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Cabover Campers & Camper Trailers (pickups)

145791028

Comments

  • Options
    mictromictro Member Posts: 29
    I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500. My camper is also an 8ft slide in.

    My truck has the factory tow package. My rear mounts just slide into the square holes on the sides of the factory hitch. I like this setup because I am completely mounted to the frame. I've seen people bend their rear bumpers with the setup that Vince described. But it always comes back to personal preference. Do what you like!

    Mike
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I also have the HappiJac mounts and I am happi with them. Because we go off road, I am looking at adding the spring loaded front tiedowns to the back also.

    That should eliminate mictro's concern about bending the rear bumper.

    Mike L
    00 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd
    Deadhorse, Alaska 6-6-99
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    I agree with Mike about using the spring loaded turnbuckles on the rear as well as the front. I'd like to switch mine but first would like to know why they used rubber rather than a spring in the first place. Does anyone have an opinion? Is there any safety or other reason not to have the spring loaded type all around? I can't think of one.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I suspect it is cost, plain and simple cost. The rear doesn't need the spring damped parts as much as the front.

    At the rear you have the entire length of the frame to twist and absorb forces. So a solid or semi-solid mount shouldn't hurt anything. The front mounts are right in the middle of the frame - a very strong part, and it won't yield to the rubber mounts under the bed, so something has to give.

    I'm hoping that having the spring preload in the rear will keep the camper down on the rubber mat when we hit the washboards at the wrong speed. My feeling is that the frame and heavy rear bumper set up a resonance that allows the rear mounts to come loose (momentarily) and let the camper move side to side.

    Of course, I'm also going to make my spacers on the side of the camper bottom (between the wheelwells) wider so it can't move so far before it hits the wheelwells. Going to shoot for 1/8"-1/4" clearance. I have some 1/8" teflon I plan on using to keep from rubbing the paint off the wheelwells.

    Mike L
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Gee I don't have that problem Mike. You just need another ton of weight in that camper!
  • Options
    pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    here's a new article that some of you may be interested in: How To Tow a Trailer by Miles Cook. What do you think?




    Pocahontas

    Host

    Pickups Message Board

  • Options
    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Mr. Cook did pretty good. He probably should have added a little discussion about equalizing hitches....
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    It appears to be a good, basic primer for towing. This group here seems to have enough smarts not to make some of the mistakes the article cautions against.

    There are a bunch of people in some of the other pickup groups that really need that knowledge. Post it into the Silverado, F150, Dodge Ram, etc. groups to catch the ones who really need it.

    If you ever do a similar article on putting a camper on a pickup, I would suggest a similar posting to the PU groups and here.

    Thanks,

    Mike L
  • Options
    erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    A couple of things not mentioned in that article relate to matching the weight of the tow vehicle to the total weight of the load, and also the wheelbase of the tow vehicle compared to the "wheelbase" of the trailer. As I related in an earlier post, using a 2-door Bronco to tow a 25' travel-trailer can be a Bad Idea and make for a Real Bad Day.
  • Options
    stabburstabbur Member Posts: 75
    I use the square holes on the sides of the factory hitch. I made up some square extensions out of two pieces of angle iron over a square tube. I would have liked to find some square tubing of the right size instead but never came up with the the correct size so I put angle iron over the smaller square tube. There is an eye bolt at the end of the extension. I drilled the hitch and tapped the hole for a set screw which I found necessary to keep the extension in place. This arrangement
    works just fine to hold my 10ft popup camper with the Happijac rubber bushed hold down.
  • Options
    drof01drof01 Member Posts: 9
    I have an older slide-in camper with an aluminum (?) roof with several sections. I've used conventional roof coatings before but have not been satisfied with their life. Has anyone had their roof coated with Rhino Liner?

    Do you have any other suggestions?
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    I've used two products. My old camper was similar to yours. I used a house roofing product that I think is called Snow Roof?, I bought it at Home Depot. It is a two step process, first a flexible sealant, then a top seal protective coat. The nice thing about this product is you embed a nylon mesh fabric in the goo over the joint so it provides the mechanical support. It basically goes on like thick paint, pretty easy but you need many coats. It dries to a rubber like consistency. It worked well sealing a leak on my camper but I sold it soon after so I don't know how it held up.

    On my Lance, I bought a gallon of professional goo from the Lance dealer ($42). It is called PARRBOND CLEAR, from H.B. Fuller Company, Elkhart IN. It's a lot like silicon sealer once dry, but much tougher. It's messy to apply and sets up pretty quickly. I used it for all joints, vents, screw heads, etc. I don't know how it lasts because it's only been on since summer. I assume it's good since the dealer uses it.

    Do you have a leak or is this preventative maintenance? I wonder if Rhino would tolerate the flex and expansion, a truck bed is a pretty stable surface. I guess the Rhino is meant to stand up to a lot of abuse so it may be okay. You may want to paint the surface with a white roofing sealer (like Snow Roof) to reduce the heat load. One thing to watch with black asphalt type products, they lead to black streaks on the walls. I doubt the Rhino would do that though.
  • Options
    stabburstabbur Member Posts: 75
    There are interesting comments about 4 wheel and other pop top campers on EarthRoamer.com. He had trouble with leaks. Never go camping without a tube of Seam Grip.

    This site, put up by a fellow named Bill Swails, also describes some interesting camper appliances including a diesel fired stove and a high efficiency 12V mechanical refrigerator. His new camper that replaces his 4 wheel looks more like a micro motor home but has some high tech construction features of the sort I mentioned some time ago as we were discussing ways to reduce camper weight.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Thanks for the link to EarthRoamer.

    He has some good information, strong opinions and some very good links.

    Of course, his camper is ugly, and I wouldn't trade him for our camper.

    Mike L
  • Options
    volkejvolkej Member Posts: 108
    I will agree with some of the complaints this guy had about the Four Wheel camper, particularly about the water leaks; I've had to do some extra work on my camper to fix that problem, but a lot of his complaints are just whining about nitpicking things.
    Think about it - He expects to go around the world with a $5K pop-up camper and when he can't do it with the camper in stock form, bitches about it. If he had asked, the people at Four Wheel camper would have told him the camper used in the Turtle Expedition was not stock, it was custom built. Even I thought to ask that.
    Now he's got a $50K+ custom rig and he's a happy camper. Well, duh!
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Then there will be more activity on this site?

    Until then, anybody got any good trips planned? Or want to start any discussion of good places to visit?

    This August I'll head back to Iowa (have to be there to get some fresh sweeeeet corn) and take my dad to Detroit to visit the Henry Ford Museum. On the way back I thought we might stop in Chicago and visit the the Museum of Science and Industry. Then we will probably follow I-80 back into Iowa.

    Anybody know of any must see spots along I-80 between Des Moines and Chicago? Or along I-94 between Chicago and Detroit? I'm not sure of our route to/from Iowa - California. I've made the trip about 25 times and try to follow different routes, my favorite is US50 across Nevada, I-70 to Denver, I-76/80 into Iowa. If time permits, we always stop in the Pioneer Village in Minden, Nebraska and the Stuhr Museum in Grand Island. Too many things to see and do in Colorado and Utah.

    Any places that demand a visit in your memory banks????

    Mike L
  • Options
    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Hauling the 25' Nash behind my buddies F350SD CC full of 3 dirtbikes tomorrow. Headed to a national enduro near Coalinga, CA. Supposed to rain, alright!

    Where the heck is Coalinga or Clear Creek Rec Center compared to Flagstaff, AZ????
  • Options
    stabburstabbur Member Posts: 75
    Here are some little-known places that I think are well worth visiting in Nebraska/Iowa.

    Desoto Bend Wildlife Area and Bertrand Museum on US 30 north of Council Bluffs. This museum displays the artifacts recovered from the Bertrand, a steamboat that hit a snag and sunk in the 1860s on the way to Ft. Benton Montana and the gold fields. Thousands of items were recoved when the wreck was discovered a hundred years later. Basically one gets to see a biopsy of what life was like a hundred and forty years ago. The display is magnificent in a delightful museum building with windows that look out onto the birds in the refuge. If you want to feel good about paying your income taxes, this is a place to go. It is a quality experience paid for by the US Wildlife Service. Golden Age Pass accepted.

    Museum Agate Fossil Beds Monument, north of Scottsbluff, Nebraska. This is another wonderful museum paid for by our tax dollars. It is located on a ranch near the headwaters of the Niobrara River where two hills contain the fossils of thousands of camels, prehistoric horses, etc. The ranch owner was befriended by the Souix Indians who camped on the property. When they were put onto the Reservations at Pine Ridge they gave him many of their most important robes, weapons, jewelry, etc. for safekeeping, not trusting the Indian Service or themselves for what might happen to it. The ranch owner and family have preserved these gifts for years and eventually donated them to this museum. Some of the Rangers are Souix and give excellent information on the exhibits. Fossil exhibits are great, too. Only a short haul north is Ft. Robinson State Park. Located on the old fort, the last army base to train cavalry, there is great country around it and good camping.

    I like to stop in Cedar Rapids, since I am a fan of the artist, Grant Wood (of American Gothic fame). He grew up in Cedar Rapids and the Cedar Rapids Art Museum has several of his very best paintings. The War Memorial in Cedar Rapids has a stained glass window commemorating the soldiers from World War I designed by Grant Wood and is on the National Register of Historic Buildings.

    Well, that is a start, and I'd better quit before I get trapped and fill too much space.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Ditto your feeling on the Agate Fossil Beds Museum. The Daemonilix fossils were fascinating to see.

    In the same general are the coal mines in Lusk, Wyoming that we thoroughly enjoyed. And just a hundred or so miles north is Devil's Tower, home of the largest prarie dog colony around.

    I'm not a Grant Wood's fan, but we will check out the Bertrand Museum. Thanks for the tip.

    Mike L
  • Options
    ritakayritakay Member Posts: 3
    Just took delivery of a 2500SD SB 4x4 and will be adding a pop-up camper for a 2 month trip to Alaska starting in May. Are things like bras,splash guards,bug deflectors,etc. highly recommended? I do intend to be on unimproved(gravel?)roads occasionally.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    We went to Alaska in the summer of 99. We arrived in Alaska on the 4th of June. We found many of the campgrounds and other facilities had just opened on the 1st of June, especially in northern BC and the Yukon. You may want to keep that in mind if you are leaving in early or mid May.

    I made a grill/light guard for our truck. It was made out of copper water pipe and a 3/8" mesh galvanized screen. We slowed down and pulled over whenever we met oncoming traffic on gravel or dirt roads. Still, after the trip I found 3-4 rock dents 1/2"-1" in the screen. At least two of them would have taken out a headlight, so the $50 or so I spent on materials was well spent.

    I would highly suggest you invest in some long mudflaps for the front and rear wheels. Even with our mudflaps, the gravel did a number on the underside of the body and bed. I've seen some impressive mudflaps cut out of semi trailer mudflaps. The went right to the ground.

    BTW, the gravel roads are far from unimproved. They are frequently better maintained than the 'paved' roads. Gravel roads are not affected much by the winters, but the paved roads can get some really nasty frost heaves and potholes. On gravel, watch for soft spots caused by ice or snow piles melting slowing in one spot and causing a wet/soft spot. Almost as bad as a big pothole.

    Before you go, make sure your camper is mosquito tight. If they can get in, they will get in. It was amazing to hear the little critters bouncing off the screen in the vents trying to find a way in. The vents in my camper had a hole around the handle that was large enough to let a mosquito through. Sealed that with a washer placed above the screen. Go inside the camper (off the truck) on a bright sunny day and look inside every cabinet, crack and crevice for light leaks. Where you find a light leak, there is probably a mosquito leak. Some places the mosquitos are really bad, and you won't be happy if they can get in.

    Where are coming from? We are from the SF Bay area in Cal.

    Mike L
  • Options
    ritakayritakay Member Posts: 3
    Mike:Thanks for the tips-The screen sounds like a good idea(Would hate to bang up the front of a new truck on its first trip!)I will be leaving from the Chicago area late in May,so I assume the weather will be improving by the time I get to the Yukon.
  • Options
    BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    First point of advice on the Alaska trip is to buy a Milepost. It shows all the routes to Alaska and then shows all the locations for fuel, campsites, scenic stops, etc. I've been up and down the hwy many times, both the Cassiar route and the regular hwy.

    The hwy is paved all the way (not the Cassiar), but that's doesn't mean it will be paved when you drive it. Needless to say, the summer time is not only the tourist season, it's also the construction season. I've seen 50 mile stretches of the road dug up for construction. But traveling the road is not as primitive as it used to be. There are lots of places for fuel and most of the road is in very good condition.

    The last time I drove up the hwy was January 1999. No gravel to worry about. I just locked out OD and put the truck in 4wd. I had just picked up my camper in British Columbia, so I was still getting used to having it in the bed of my truck. It was my first pickup camper. By the end of the trip, I didn't even know it was up there. As for the road conditions, they weren't bad, except one streach just outside of Fort Nelson in the Steamboat Pass area. We had left Fort Nelson around 7am, so it was still dark and hit a pretty good snow storm. Don't let anyone tell you that it won't snow if the temp is -20. The temps hit 20 below outside of Prince George and never got warmer until about three hours from Anchorage. The low was -38 around the Alaska/Canada border. It was 10 degrees cooler a week later.

    It's been awhile since I posted. For those of you who don't know, I live in Alaska. I just bought a new house in Palmer Alaska, about 40 miles north of Anchorage. The decision to buy a new house pretty much nixed any winter camping plans this year. I moved into the new house a few days after Christmas. I commute to Anchorage everyday for work, so the truck is starting to accumulate some miles.

    There is money in escrow to pave an RV pad next to the house. I plan to put some kind of tie-down hooks in the ground since we have some pretty good winds out here. The camper is winterized now. I likely won't get to use it until May and it won't be used as much this summer as I'd like. I've got to put a yard in here at the house.

    My truck:

    1999 Ford F-350 Superduty, supercab, dually, V-10, 4wd, 4.30 axle ratio, auto trans, AT tires, line-x spray-in bedliner. 47,000 miles and running strong.

    My camper:

    1999 10'11" Bigfoot 3000 with all the options, rated to -40.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I agree with what Brutus said about the Milepost. My wife kept our copy, and read ahead to see what was coming up, and then kept me informed, decided what sights we needed to see, etc. Kept her involved in the trip and she was less likely to complain about my driving.

    Brutus, congrats on the new house. Condolences on the lack of winter camping. Good to hear from you again.

    Ritakay,

    If you go by the Lliard Hot Springs, be sure and stop. It was 50 and raining the day we stopped, and the water felt wonderful!! It was a surprise to see ferns in country that gets so cold in the winter.

    Mike L
  • Options
    erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    One thing to keep in mind about the Milepost. It is an annual publication that normally comes out in March. Be sure to get the 2001-2002 edition. As for bras, I thought only women wore them today. I haven't seen one on a truck in ages. Bug deflector is always a good idea. Same goes for mud flaps. I see the occasional screen mesh guard, virtually always on a visitor's truck. Make sure you have no more than a $50 comp deduction. You'll be needing a new windshield after two months. If your SES light comes on in Canada, it's the gas. It'll go away. Once in Alaska, remember, we have a law that states you must pull over to let traffic pass if there are five or more vehicles behind you. Even if you're doing the speed limit it's appreciated that you do pull over. Have a safe and enjoyable trip.
  • Options
    volkejvolkej Member Posts: 108
    In a past issue of Car and Driver, there was an article one of the editors wrote about driving a Mercedes M320 to Alaska in the winter.
    In the article he mentioned some clear sticky backed material they had placed over the surfaces of the SUV that were likely to get rock chips. The stuff was supposed to be pretty effective. I don't recall any of the details - has anybody else heard of this stuff?
    It sounded pretty good at the time and I meant to keep the magazine, but I forgot to tell my wife I wanted to keep it. Man! I hate it when she cleans the house. That's one of the ten reasons it's said that dogs are better than spouses - 'the dirtier you are the more interesting they find you.'

    Jim
    "Lie? Me? Never! No, no, no, the truth is far too much fun." - Captain Hook
  • Options
    kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    Since we're campers, that usually indicates a sense of adventure and humor, so I wanted to pass along a link I've used for a while. The site in the link below may be the ultimate for finding the stereotypical, old time, tourist traps, and other strange things to see on a trip. Kind like you used to see traveling the old famous route 66 in a way.

    http://www.roadsideamerica.com/
  • Options
    mictromictro Member Posts: 29
    I know that this is totally off the topic, but I am posting this here because I've been reading this topic for over a year and I am impressed with how helpful everyone here is!

    I have a 1993 Ford Taurus GL Sedan with the 3.8L V-6 (100,500 miles). Over the weekend, my wife experienced some engine trouble. It is either a blown head gasket or cracked engine block. I am interested in cutting my losses with this vehicle and just getting rid of it.

    Does any one have any thoughts on what the vehicle is worth as is? The body and interior are in good shape. There are no other mechanical problems with the vehicle that I am aware of.

    FYI - Without the engine trouble, Kelly Blue Book has the Trade-In value at $2,600 and Retail at $5,500.

    Any help would be most appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Mike
  • Options
    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    I'd shoot cylinder compression, I'm guessing with that motor that you blew a head gasket (SWAG)

    I'd just get a new head gasket put on and sell it....
  • Options
    stabburstabbur Member Posts: 75
    The bug/rock screen I made up out of a commercial bug screen, some 3/8 hardware cloth and pieces of foam pipe insulation fits a Ford '95 150/250 and similar Fords. It won't fit our 2001 Dodge Ram. It is available gratis to anyone who can use it. If you do much driving in bug country it helps keep the radiator core open and it will stop most rocks.

    The clear adhesive covering is made by 3M. I can't remember the name of it either. As I recall it is a bit pricy, but cheaper than a paint job. I haven't used it, but it would be useful if they had something like that for windshields. See below:

    It is a good idea to break your windshield on the first couple of days in the far north. Then you can forget about it and relax. We did just that.

    The Taurus V6 in question above is known to blow head gaskets. Check alldata.com for TSBs on this.

    Don't leave any money/wallet in your clothes when you use the bathhouse at Liard Hot Springs.

    Good to hear from you Brutus.
  • Options
    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Made a quick round trip to CA pulling the travel trailer and three dirtbikes on board of a F350 SD V10 CC 4x4 Auto 3.73 last weekend.

    Got mostly 8 mpg or so running 65. Hurrying back to Flagstaff, during my driving stint, over the course of 150 miles I burned like 23 gallons of gas for a whopping 6mpg running mostly 77mph.

    Hoping my new 6.0L CC 2500HD 5 speed 4.10 does as good if not better.

    New truck is on a railcar headed for AZ. Hope to be driving by the end of the month.
  • Options
    pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
    Have you tried using Edmunds' used vehicle appraiser? Here's a direct
    link. Good luck. ;-)


    Pocahontas
    Host
    Pickups Message Board

  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    If you read the Edmunds Taurus board you will quickly learn that 3.8L = blown head gasket. You should pose your question there. I'd say you would be lucky to get over $1000 for it now. Unfortunately American cars have lousy resale value and low demand. My dad just sold a similar age Taurus (excellent cond) with 70k miles for $4000. He ended up selling it to an accquatance after getting no response to a newspaper add.
  • Options
    saarisaari Member Posts: 11
    Are there any cab overs that will go on a 6ft.Extended cab Ranger4x4?
  • Options
    oltrolloltroll Member Posts: 74
    I have been researching truck campers for over a year now and have come up with a method that I think is very close. If you deduct 600 lbs from the rated payload this is close to what you can carry. (30gal. gas; 2 people @ 150 lbs.) Then add 700 lbs to the dry weight of the camper. (water, lp,AC,battery,and other options.) I know gas doesn't weigh 10 # per gal but most of us don't only weigh 150#. My air bags prob. weigh 40 # and this has to be added in. These are not exact weights but they will get you real close.
  • Options
    outbakoutbak Member Posts: 10
    This is in reply to Volkej's post 327 on Feb 19 about a clear film you can put on the front of your vehicle to protect against rock chips. There is a company in Littleton CO. that produces just such a product.

    Automotive Protection
    3690 Norwood Dr.
    Littleton, CO 80125
    720-344-5282
    www.automotiveprotection.com
  • Options
    n75v111n75v111 Member Posts: 243
    Just traveled Casa Grande, Phoenix, Flagstaff to Denver last Thur. Then had to hold up in North Platte because of the ice on Friday. on way back to IA.

    No response necessary.

    75v
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Some companies make campers for small trucks but a cabover hardside is a bit much for your truck. You should be looking at popups. See my next post for ideas.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Hi Vince,


    Here are a couple of sites to add to your list:

    Hardside:


    http://www.summerwindcampers.com/


    http://www.hallmarkrv.com/


    Pop-up


    http://www.hallmarkrv.com/


    And here is a site that lists manufacturers. Most are RV or trailer manufacturers, but some make campers. I haven't take the time to cross check your list against the possible camper manufacturers in this list.


    RV Manufacturers index:


    http://www.rvsafety.com/Manufact.htm


    Mike L

  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    Thanks for the additions Mike. Who ever heard of Summer Wind campers?
  • Options
    erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    Visit their Web site; these are nice campers. My final choice was between Summer Wind and Northern Lite.
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    I did take a quick look at the site. The alum frame looks nice (although I've never had any problem with wood) but expensive. Do you know how much they cost?
  • Options
    djonathangdjonathang Member Posts: 6
    Hello,

    I am in the market for a slide-in camper. Before I make the leap, thought I might look for ideas on how people have modified their truck beds and truck caps into "comfortable" campers. Of primary concern is how to keep warm in the colder Fall months. Last time I woke up, my dog's water bowl and I were frozen solid. Never again!!!

    Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. I currently have a Dodge Ram 1500 short bed with a cab high Snug Top Cap.
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    If you're interested in a light weight camper, check out the popup link list a few posts back.
  • Options
    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I don't think it is possible to modify a camper shell into a comfortable cold weather camper.


    A good alternative is to buy a 4 Wheel camper shell model. It is a small popup camper that has some insulation, a good sized bed, and an optional heater.


    When the camper is down, it has about the same internal size as a camper shell. When it is up, you have enough room to stand. I think it weighs about 7-800lbs.


    Check it out at:


    http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/


    Mike L

  • Options
    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Bought my 2500HD with camper wiring. Figured go ahead and put an outlet in the front left side of the bed. Is there a standard Camper type connector/recepticle? and a standard location? Also figured on adding Happijack tiedowns.... any good mail order places? Our local trailer sho went outta business since I last did this for my ol '89 F350....

    Buddy has a new Lance, gonna check his truck for the connector type.

    Figuring on pony'ing up for a new Lance this summer....
  • Options
    vince4vince4 Member Posts: 1,268
    There is no standard for connectors. I replaced the plastic Lance connector with a nice metal weather-tight version because the former owner had goofed it up. I don't know what type of receptacle Lance supplies.


    I was talking with the manager at the rv parts store here about Lance. He said they don't sell their mating connector to anyone but Lance dealers, but he had recently talked with the owner of Lance and made an agreement to begin selling it.


    By coincidence, that store is also the best rv parts source I've found on the web. If they don't list the connector, send them an e-mail. It's a small place, I assume they will be happy to answer.


    http://www.rvpartsoutlet.com

  • Options
    kingfishguskingfishgus Member Posts: 112
    I've camped in cool weather in an empty van and a pickup with a shell in a campground. All I did was to add a full size bed mattress from the house, electric blanket and a electric coffee pot. Sort of worked OK, at least I lived. Beat the heck out of the night I spend wet/frozen in a tent with ice forming outside. Of course if you don't have electricity I'd reccomend either 3 dogs or a big companion.
  • Options
    erikf2erikf2 Member Posts: 100
    I must be following too many forums; I **meant** to post this here, but actually posted it in the Pickup Trurk Accessories forum. Anyway, some info and a question...


    A gentleman over on the PickupTruck.Com Aftermarket Parts Forum was kind enough post some information on a very intriguing product. The product is an extendable towing mirror which is available with both power control and **heat**. The mirrors are manufactured by Lucerix in Brazil (http://www.lucerix.com/English_Main/New_Products/X_Mount/X_Mount.html) and are available in the U.S. from AutoMirror Source.Com (http://www.automirrorsource.com/dir/1.html). Here's the link to the message thread over on PickupTruck.Com - http://forums.pickuptruck.com/Forum18/HTML/000107.html.


    Does anybody else have any experience with Lucerix products? It appears that they do quite a bit of business in the Class A and commercial-truck markets.

This discussion has been closed.