Nope - it'll just hold and register the ~15 gallons as "full", but you still won't be able to use the last 2 or 3 gallons unless you want to risk running out of gas (plus you'll be staring at the low fuel light for a while).
I rarely can cram more than 17 gallons in my 20 gallon Nissan tank; usually the pump clicks off at 16 and that's after the low fuel light comes on. Same deal with my Subaru.
1. If you start out with a full 15 gallon tank of gas, and use 12 gallons of that gas, how much gas will it take to refill that 15 gallon tank?
2. If you start of with a full 15 gallon tank and drive until it runs ont of gas and you have to be towed, how many gallons will it take to refill that 15 gallon tank?
12 and 15, would seem to be the answers. however in the crvs case since you can only use 12 of the 15 the correct answers are 12 and 12, because you can only use 12 gallons of the 15 gal tank
Maybe this helps. My Accord holds 17.1 g. but my empty light comes on and my gauge shows empty after I have used 14.5 gallons. If you continue to drive for 60-80 miles you will run out. The most I ever put in my tank was 16.8 after driving 68 miles on empty. What a rush!?
OK....I think I have my answer. To know how much is in my tank I need to know 2 variables.
1. How much is in the tank 2. How much I am putting in.
1 is never truly known..right? I can guess all I want but I will never know for sure. I can guess that I have 8 gallons in there but really it could be 6-10. So when I say that I can only have 12 gallons in there, its just a guess. I am now going to run the CR-V down until the computer guesses that I have about 20 miles left. Then I will fill up and have a better idea of how much this tank can really hold.
Any inputs? Besides being called a "fool". All I am trying to prove here is that this tank really can handle 15 gallons....is that such a bad thing?
Young men trying to prove things that don't require proof can often turn out badly. When your e light comes on, reset your b trip odometer to 0 so you can estimate how much farther you can go.
A lot of talk about tanks, but not much about the actual economy. I would imagine for most folks, filling up (whatever your interpretation of this is) isn't too big of a deal whether or not they use 12 gallons between gas-station visits, or 14. That's 50 miles difference.
50 miles isn't much difference, if the two numbers are 450 and 500...
If the two numbers are 250 and 300, then filling up every 5 days is a real pain in the butt....
So... I can see the point in wanting to get more than 12 gallons out of a tank.. This is one of my biggest dislikes of the CR-V (and, I've had 9 years to think about it).
Based on my experience (and observation) with Hondas, after the low fuel light comes on, you’re basically into "reserve" which is about 20% of the total capacity. In my Accord and TL, the light is on around 13.5 gallon mark (on 17.1 gallon tank). It was about 11 gallon mark in my Civic which had 13.2 gallon tank. So, if CR-V has a 15 gallon tank, it makes sense that the light would be on around 12-12.5 gallon mark. At this point you know you have 2-2.5 gallons to go.
The longest I have pushed my Accord (over its 182K miles) is 15.8 gallons at 507 miles. At the time the light came on around 425 miles or so from home, I knew having 3.5 gallons on hand (at least 100 miles) which would be enough to make it into Memphis (from Dallas).
Early warning only helps you find a good location and a convenient time for a fill up. If the light didn’t come on until it is late, then one would be inviting trouble. I have been in areas with no gas station for miles. IMO, it is a good idea to have at least 70-80 miles in reserve before running dry. You can wait that long if you want to, but I won’t advise it. If traffic goes bad, or weather turns nasty, having more fuel would come in handy than not having any left.
This was one of big issues with a friend's Jetta. "Reserve" is a term used by VW to indicate fuel left after the low fuel warning goes off. In case of Jetta (14.5 gallon tank), the reserve started around 12.6 gallon. And it was not a comforting situation to know having only 1.9 gallons left when the car is getting only 21-22 mpg.
Nothing is stopping from driving more. The low fuel lamp turning on is simply warning you that you've consumed 80% of the tank, and still have about 20% left. Depending on the conditions you're driving in, you could choose to refuel now, or later. If the vehicle is being driven under conditions that gets 22-23 mpg, the "reserve" will be good for another 60-70 miles before having to call AAA. It is especially useful when someone is running short on time, or is in a locality where one doesn't want to stop.
I live in Atlanta and if you've ever driven here, its a lot of stops and starts on the interstate. But on average I get 23.0 with my 2007 CR-V. But I do miss my Civic. The reason I bought the CR-V? I needed these people in their huge expensive Hummers, etc. to see me -- therefore -- the larger vehicle.
This has to be one of the best discussions I've read in a while! Our light comes on around the 12 gallon mark and I've never really worried if I'm getting a full 15.3 gallons since I don't want to find out. Just as long as I know I have 60+ miles to find my next fillup.
I live in Athens. I have a 2007 CR-V EX 4WD that I average 24-25 MPG when commuting. Of course, we don't have the ATL traffic, yet. This is 4-5 MPG better than I got with my Odyssey.
I recently went to New Mexico - 4457 miles round trip - and averaged 28.6 MPG. Had about 3 tanks that were over 30 MPG. I was pleasantly surprised - traveling with my wife and a full load (way more than I needed). In NM the speed limit on the interstates is 75 (outside of the city), and at some times I was driving in excess of 80 and still got about 30 MPG.
I just got my 07 EX AWD. I live in San Francisco Bay Area (east bay) and I commute 70 Round trip per day and drive about 65-75mph. Usually will get about 29 mpg, not bad!
But when driving in town or on a trip to SF city with city traffic it drops to about 25-26 mpg
I also ready someone else who did a 2k miles trip and average almost 30mpg doing about 80mph!
I noticed that I get a better gas mileage with Shell gasoline, followed by chevron (both are supposed to have higher amounts of detergents) on my 2007 CR-V 4WD. The gas from BP and costco had the lowest mileage. I dont put any other brands in my car. Since there can be a significant variability in weather, speeds, temperature, a/c usage etc., I alternated between different brands of gas in a pseudo-random fashion (4 tanks of costco gas, 5 tanks of BP, 7 tanks of Chevron, 6 tanks of Shell). Randomness was introduced by filling up at the first gas station belonging to the above 4 brands encountered after the 'gas warning' light came on. Each fill up was between 12.8-13.5 gallons. I always used cruise control on the freeway and drive between 60-70 mph. Any tank used for long road trips was not taken into account in this study of mine due to potential skew in data. The first 1000 miles on the car was not taken into account as well.
These data indicate that Shell gas (at least from where I filled) gives me about 0.2-0.9 mpg better mileage than all other brands. It gave a statistical significance compared to BP and costco gas (p<0.05). The data trends towards a better gas mileage with Shell compared to Chevron but will need a higher sample size for statistical significance (current p~0.2). Similarly Chevron gives a better gas mileage compared to the local Costco and BP gas but no statistical significance yet (p~0.1). I do realize that there are several variabilities I cannot control but the data is what it is. Has anyone noticed better gas mileage with a specific brand?
I am in no way affiliated to any of the gas manufacturers but I am a scientist with some time on my hands (dont teach a course this sem.) and patience. May be this prolonged study will get me an Ignobel .
Based on resetting the B trip odometer on Jan 1, my ytd 2007 CR-V mileage is 26.9. The mix is about 50-50 city-hwy miles; 24-25 mpg in town and 28-29 hwy. Driving style: Conservative. Hwy speed: 70 mph. If I push it, the mileage drops . . . . significantly when cruising at 75-80 mph.
I traded my 03 Civic Hybrid in for my 07 EX AWD and I have to say it trained me well as far as driving to maximize my mileage. I'm getting at least EPA estimates (22/28) and I don't even have 600 miles on my CR-V yet. Driver input has such a HUGE effect on mileage. I don't think people put enough stock in that.
Dear guru g: The amount of Ethanol will affect your mileage (MPG). Many people who purchased their gas in NJ (until recently) where ethanol was NOT added, had 2,3,even 4 MPG higher in any vehicle. A good mechanic told me that the added ethanol is a major reason for Check Engine lights coming on a variety of cars. If U read your manual, it generally states that the % of ethanol should not exceed 10%. I live in NY - many of the gasolines have 15% and higher added to the gas. My Nissan Pathfinder - 2001 - has had the check engine light come on & off for Oxygen sensor failure (some car companies tell you to be sure you :click" the gas cap closed") for over 2 years. If I add STP Gas Treatment, in one or two fill ups.... the light is off again. I try to use Shell gasoline myself. By the way My 2007 CRV EX-L 4WD with 1275 mikes on it for 3 months w/o resetting the B trip meter from the get go, is at 19.2 MPG overall, mostly local surburban (80%) driving without full loads or A/C. That's only minimally acceptable as far as I'm concerned. Should be at least 20% better than that.
Hi, I am sorry; I have a question to you. You answered the questions about ILP procedure, but I am still not clear about that. I called Honda Dealer and they said they never heard about that. Could you clarify, please? My Honda CRV SE 2005 eats 14 miles per gallon, and I a very concerned about that. Thanks, Peter
Real World MPG trip: with 4 adults in the CRV EX-L with 4WD, current total mileage at appx 1800 miles on the vehicle (leased 10/07), interstate travelling at 65-75 MPH - I experienced 22.9 MPG for a 200 mile trip [ per the trip computer which was reset at the gas fill up before the trip} . No traffic, but some hilly terrain, travelling near the Poconos in the PA - NJ border. Not so good, in my opinion. I would get 27-28 MPG on my Nissan Altima with a V-6. Disappointing to say the least, for a 4 banger and a vehicle of this size. I honestly feel, that vehicles that are slightly "under powered" experience poorer gas mileage results. A small V-6, with a 5 speed auto (like the CRV I have) would probably yield better results. The RPMs were always over 2600-2900 at those speeds & higher while passing or climbing some incline. Othher vehicles that I've owned, with larger engines, would be working less hard (lower RPMS). I'm not an engineer, but just reporting experiences with anumber of cars I've driven.
The XM radio was great to have on the trip. The overall ride on the road was good, solid, and not harsh with 4 adults (that's the max that could fit with comfort). The CRV handles very well.
Are you saying the Honda dealer never heard of the ILP or that they never heard it can affect mileage if not done? Either of those would suggest that it was not done!
I got involved with it after disconnecting my battery. The mileage dropped 3-4 MPG! After doing the ILP the mileage returned to normal. Other folks have tried it and had favorable results. Others had no change. It is possible that the no change folks's cars were done correctly at the dealer, so doing it again would have no effect.
Go to the left side of page 3. The ILP is just under removing the tags from the seats, near the top of the page. Notice that the Bulletin says that anytime the battery or certain fuses are disconnected the ILP should be done.
For a quick way of doing the ILP, go to post 202 ,Page 11, of the Pilot "Real World Mileage".
I don't pretend to understand the reason for the ILP. Just like I don't understand why this computer works. I just know that, if I do it correctly, it functions properly.
Both our Honda's average better than most folks post. The Pilot averages 17-19 every fill up. The CR-V about 22 for my wife and 24-25 for me in local driving.
On the road, the Pilot has gotten a high of 27++ and a low of 18 mpg. Usually in the 25-26 mpg range. The CR-V has gotten as high as 30++ and averages 28 or so with it's 4wd and 4 speed auto.
And yes I have been challenged and practically called a liar. But others have also reported way above average figures.
ILP takes very little effort. It may or may not help. It certainly can not hurt! If the car is kept for a few years, that battery is going to be disconnected or replaced, or killed. The ILP will need doing, according the the service bulletin.
Hope this has answered your question. If not please ask again.
Hi, It got even worse. I checked today before the light came out. Total mileage before light-176.7-------- 14.148 gallons, which is equal to 12.5 miles per gallon. It is so frustrating. I will do ILP procedure myself as you said. I will also try to change the oil since I purchased this car month ago and I don't know what oil they used prior. Thanks.
The thing is I am not sitting in the traffic, mostly driving in the city with normal driving habits. If you are saying that ILP is not going to help me much, I don't know what I should do then. I asked my friends who are in the motor business about this issue, they said may be it is due to low tire pressure. I checked the tires, they are OK. When I drive I see how the arrow falls rapidly after every 10 miles. It is a terrible feeling. What do you think if I call HONDA directly and tell them problem, will they send the inspector? Thanks.
How many miles are on the car? What is the year and drive type. ( Auto? 4wd?)
Poor mileage can be the result of one particular thing or an accumulation of several things.
If you bought the car new, you need to be at the dealer. Let them fix it!
If you bought the car used from a Honda dealer, they need to Fix It!.
If it is a used car bought from an individual, you may still have some help through Honda. It is possible, but not likely, that something to do with Emissions is causing the problem and is warranted by the manufacturer for something like 50K miles. However, this should turn on the "Check Engine" light.
If it is a used car:
Be sure the "Check Engine" light is not burned out. All the dash light come on for us to check when we first turn on the key. Then they go out after a few seconds. It may actually say "Check Engine" or it may be an icon shaped like an engine.
Do the ILP. according to the instructions in Post 202 of the Pilot Real world mileage. Don't try to rush it or take short cuts. Remember, it is IDLE LEARN. The computer could be seriously confused for some unknown reason. Doing the ILP might allow it to re-group! :confuse:
Change the oil, using "Mobil" 1 synthetic of the proper weight. Use a HONDA brand oil filter. Car should have at least 10k miles before using synthetic oil.
Change the air filter if it looks dirty or suspect. Honda Brand. Don't waste your money on the so called high mileage/high performance filters.
Look around, under the hood, for anything that might be disconnected or loose.
Make sure everything that is supposed to be turned by the serpentine belt is turning freely. And the AC compressor is not turning when the AC is turned off. To check the AC, watch the compressor pulley. When it is "off", only the outside of the pulley turns. When "on" the whole pulley will turn. It helps to have someone inside the car operate the switch while you watch the compressor.
Add a good Fuel Injector Cleaner to 1 or 2 tanks of gas. Partially clogged injectors can result in gas droplets rather than the proper mist.
Make sure none of the brakes are dragging.
Personally, if doing the above had no effect, I would visit my Honda dealer or Honda specialty shop for an electronic analysis as well as an engine compression check.
Sometimes a problem can exist that will not show up as "check engine" or even while doing an electronic analysis. Then a knowledgeable mechanic is priceless.
Example: Our 03 Pilot started shuttering badly when trying to lock the torque converter at around 50 mph. Felt like the tranny was coming apart. I nursed it to the dealer and they observed the problem, but nothing showed up when reading the computer. Honda tech support was no help to the dealer. Finally one of the service writers said, "I remember that problem. It is the EGR valve". They checked the valve and it failed the check. Replacing the valve under the emissions warranty solved the problem. Nobody there could successfully explain to me why the "Exhaust Gas Recirculating" valve would only affect the torque converter locking up. But it did! It really helps to have a mechanic involved that can look beyond the analysis box!
I purchased my CRV 2005 a month ago from the auction with 32000 miles on it. It is automatic and 4wd. Once I purchased it I took it to two independent dealers, and they said they didn't find any problem. I will do everything what you listed here, hopefully it will help. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. Peter
Have you checked the speedometer/odometer against a GPS?
If a GPS is not available, Expressway mile markers work pretty well. Although they may not be exact to the foot, a 10 mile stretch will do nicely. At 60 mph you should go 10 miles +/- 1/10th mile (for error), in 10 minutes +/- 6 or so seconds.
How are you checking your mileage? I noticed in one of your previous posts that you stated you used over 14 gallons? While the tank is advertised at 15.3 gallons, I've never been able to put over 13.5 gallons in mine on a fill-up, even after running it for 60 miles with the low fuel light on..
Are you estimating how much fuel you are using? If so, being off by a gallon or two will throw your calculations way off..
jaj830: I get nowhere near 30 MPG on the highway. See my post about real world MPG for a Xmas trip. Perhaps in New Mexico, they don't add Ethanol to the gas. In NY it's about 10 to 15%, THAT reduces mileage considerably on all cars. I got 23 MPG, all highway at 70-80 MPH on Inter-states without the a/c ON!!
23 mpg sounds about right if your driving speed is 70-80 mph. My experience is that mileage drops rapidly past 70 mph. I can manage hwy mileage in the high-20s, even 30, only by keeping my speed around 65 mph. When doing 75 mph the mileage drops to the mid-20s range.
The CR-V seems geared on the low side, to provide good acceleration around town. But then, I doubt anything but the smallest SUV is going to deliver 30 mpg at 75 mph.
Hi, On December 31st I went to Honda Miller dealership and wanted them to check my car based on my complaints, they refused to do the checkup saying there is no engine light on, and they also told me to bring the numbers about low mpg. I have a question. Can I attract the attention from HONDA if I keep calling them and telling my experience at multiple Honda dealerships? Can turn my car back to them as "Lemon Low" as manufactured defect? Is this good idea? Thanks.
If I understand correctly, your CR-V is a 4wd 2005 model with about 32K miles. If you had bought it new, it would likely still be in the warranty period. It would definitely be within the emission period of 50k miles.
However since you purchased it "used", the warranty could be a bit of a problem. I don't know if the warranty is transferred to the "new" owner. I would think it does, but not positive. I have some concerns about the car, but they may not be reliable concerns.
You said, you bought the car at an auction....! In our area, CR-Vs sell well. Used ones demand a high price. When a dealer takes one in on trade, they put it on the used car lot so they can get "prime" price for it. Or, they may sell it directly to another dealer, if they already have several. They normally don't send it to the auction, where the selling price may be below wholesale, or at least a couple of thousand dollars less than they could have gotten on their lot. Unless, of course, there is something wrong with the car.
A lot can go wrong with a car in 32K miles, if it was not properly maintained.
In all fairness, and looking at it from the dealer's viewpoint: A person comes in with a car that has logged in 32K miles. They want us to "Tell" them why it is getting poor mileage. There are no lights indicating any problems. We don't have a clue as to how the car has been maintained, but there are some items that definitely are past due and need to be done! Not hard to understand why the dealer might be reluctant. HONDA corporate might feel the same way. With questions like, have you kept up the maintenance on the vehicle? Has the 30K service been performed? If the answers are NO, they loose interest pretty fast. Of course they can answer those questions by looking on their computers. Now, if the oil changes, and other services, were done at JIFFY LUBE, Honda won't know that. However they will know if an authorized Honda dealer performed the work. If the work was done at something other than a Honda dealer, you would need Proof.
FWIW we bought our Pilot at "Honda South". About 6 months later we bought our CR-V at "Nally Honda". Nally is closer, so I moved the Pilot service over to them. They can tell me all the service work that Honda South did on that Pilot, including any Problems I had, any recalls involved, and that I have an extended Honda warranty. Apparently any and all service to a particular VIN number goes into a data base.
I say that because your Honda dealer can likely tell you of any recalls due or done as well as any problems any Honda dealer worked on for the original owner(s). . At 30K there is a major maintenance due on your car. I would take it to a "HONDA" dealer and have them do it. They will or should, replace the air filter, install the proper oil, change the rear end dope, service the transmission, rotate the tires. They should also check the brake pads for wear and give you a print out of the pad's condition. If you have had a brake "Dragging", the pads on that wheel will be worn excessively. Not sure but they may also check the engine valve clearance at that time. Be sure to note on the service order that it is getting poor mileage and you want engine diagnostics run. You also want any recalls performed. Also have them "Flash" the computer. Flashing basically makes the computer stupid, then re loads it with the latest and greatest information that it needs to perform properly.
That 30K service might cost you $300-$500. However you saved quite a bit at the auction.
If you mileage doesn't improve, take it back to them along with a log of your mileage and the type/conditions of your driving. Then you can/will have a case to present to HONDA corporate.
I don't believe the Lemon Laws affect anyone other than the original owner, but could be wrong. :sick:
To the best of my knowledge, all Lemon Laws are state laws. They vary depending on the state in which you live. In general, they apply to vehicles with safety and/or mechanical problems that prevent you from using the vehicle. I doubt the failure to achieve a mpg number would be covered.
But . . . you need to check with the department in your state that oversees their Lemon Law to be sure.
I agree with your conclusions. However, your Altima requires premium fuel (which essentially makes the fuel cost about the same). In addition, it doesn't have the same cargo capacity and utility.
I drove an Altima V6. The new Altima engine is much faster and smoother than your CR-V. (It would be nice to have it in the CR-V). However, Nissan resale usually stinks.
In line with your discussion, I would wonder if that's why the RAV V6 gets better mileage than the CR-V in Consumer Reports. Bear in mind that it premium fuel is recommended for that car as well. (Only regular is required - but like in my wife's Sienna - it avoids pinging with premium).
I got 23.5 driving 75-80 on the freeway in CA on a trip. On the same trip at 65, I got in the low 27s. I've added a heavy rear hitch also. I find that I can get better mileage by using the MPG guage and adjusting my driving habits.
Just took delivery of a new 2008 CR-V 4WD EX 5AT last Saturday, 12/29/07. The CR-V had 18 miles on the odometer at delivery, 12/07 production date from the East Liberty plant. The next day, we took it for its first long distance trip from N. VA to Lancaster, PA to visit family.
I averaged about 27.8 mpg on the way up, and 27.9 mpg on the return trip, with speeds between 65-70 mph, according to the trip computer. When we got back, the car had 500 miles on the odometer.
Just took delivery of a new 2008 CR-V 4WD EX 5AT last Saturday, 12/29/07. The CR-V had 18 miles on the odometer at delivery, 12/07 production date from the East Liberty plant. The next day, we took it for its first long distance trip from N. VA to Lancaster, PA to visit family.
I averaged about 27.8 mpg on the way up, and 27.9 mpg on the return trip, with speeds between 65-70 mph, according to the trip computer. When we got back, the car had 500 miles on the odometer.
So, you disregarded Honda's recomendation for the break in preiod not to maintian constant engine RPM's?
When I checked my 2008 CR-V Owner's Manual (page 226) under the section "Break-in Period", it makes no mention of not to maintain a constant engine RPMs during the break-in period. I looked at it before embarking on the trip, just to be sure.
Here's what it says, in verbatim:
Break-in Period Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period:
- Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
- Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time.
- Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km).
- Do not tow a trailer.
You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced.
It is a good idea to vary the RPM during break in.
If your trip involved "Rolling" (Hilly) terrain rather than long endless stretches of "Flat", such as Florida or mid west; Chances are good the tranny was locking and unlocking the torque converter, as well as also shifting from 5th (OD) back to 4th. This would especially be true if using cruise control. Therefore, the RPM was likely fluctuating a good bit.
I personally like to break one in (First 500-600 miles) on hilly back roads where there is a lot of shifting and RPM variances. Also mixing in some local and light city. After that, still being careful not to rev past 4K RPM or hard acceleration until the 1K mark.
Comments
I rarely can cram more than 17 gallons in my 20 gallon Nissan tank; usually the pump clicks off at 16 and that's after the low fuel light comes on. Same deal with my Subaru.
Please answer these 2 questions.
1. If you start out with a full 15 gallon tank of gas, and use 12 gallons of that gas, how much gas will it take to refill that 15 gallon tank?
2. If you start of with a full 15 gallon tank and drive until it runs ont of gas and you have to be towed, how many gallons will it take to refill that 15 gallon tank?
Can you answer those two questions?
Thanks,
Kip
You can use all 15 gallons if you want to, but do you have the AAA membership to have them tow you to the nearest gas station?
And do you have the time to wait for 2-3 hours to get the tow truck to you?
If you are so inclined, run it dry. Then see how much fuel it takes to fill it up. It should be 15 gallons.
In case you don't have the AAA membership, or don't want to pay $80 tow charge, you can buy a can of "rescue"
Is that stuff still around? I haven't seen it for sale for a couple of years.
1. How much is in the tank
2. How much I am putting in.
1 is never truly known..right? I can guess all I want but I will never know for sure.
I can guess that I have 8 gallons in there but really it could be 6-10. So when I say that I can only have 12 gallons in there, its just a guess.
I am now going to run the CR-V down until the computer guesses that I have about 20 miles left. Then I will fill up and have a better idea of how much this tank can really hold.
Any inputs? Besides being called a "fool". All I am trying to prove here is that this tank really can handle 15 gallons....is that such a bad thing?
If the two numbers are 250 and 300, then filling up every 5 days is a real pain in the butt....
So... I can see the point in wanting to get more than 12 gallons out of a tank.. This is one of my biggest dislikes of the CR-V (and, I've had 9 years to think about it).
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The longest I have pushed my Accord (over its 182K miles) is 15.8 gallons at 507 miles. At the time the light came on around 425 miles or so from home, I knew having 3.5 gallons on hand (at least 100 miles) which would be enough to make it into Memphis (from Dallas).
Early warning only helps you find a good location and a convenient time for a fill up. If the light didn’t come on until it is late, then one would be inviting trouble. I have been in areas with no gas station for miles. IMO, it is a good idea to have at least 70-80 miles in reserve before running dry. You can wait that long if you want to, but I won’t advise it. If traffic goes bad, or weather turns nasty, having more fuel would come in handy than not having any left.
This was one of big issues with a friend's Jetta. "Reserve" is a term used by VW to indicate fuel left after the low fuel warning goes off. In case of Jetta (14.5 gallon tank), the reserve started around 12.6 gallon. And it was not a comforting situation to know having only 1.9 gallons left when the car is getting only 21-22 mpg.
:sick:
How do you like/dislike the sitting position of the CR-V compared to the Civic?
Kip
I recently went to New Mexico - 4457 miles round trip - and averaged 28.6 MPG. Had about 3 tanks that were over 30 MPG. I was pleasantly surprised - traveling with my wife and a full load (way more than I needed). In NM the speed limit on the interstates is 75 (outside of the city), and at some times I was driving in excess of 80 and still got about 30 MPG.
I'm happy with my CR-V.
But when driving in town or on a trip to SF city with city traffic it drops to about 25-26 mpg
I also ready someone else who did a 2k miles trip and average almost 30mpg doing about 80mph!
I recon that is possible with 2WD on relatively flat terrain, driver only, no AC. But at that average speed I would expect more like 26-27. +/-
SPEED KILLS MILEAGE !
Kip
These data indicate that Shell gas (at least from where I filled) gives me about 0.2-0.9 mpg better mileage than all other brands. It gave a statistical significance compared to BP and costco gas (p<0.05). The data trends towards a better gas mileage with Shell compared to Chevron but will need a higher sample size for statistical significance (current p~0.2). Similarly Chevron gives a better gas mileage compared to the local Costco and BP gas but no statistical significance yet (p~0.1). I do realize that there are several variabilities I cannot control but the data is what it is. Has anyone noticed better gas mileage with a specific brand?
I am in no way affiliated to any of the gas manufacturers but I am a scientist with some time on my hands (dont teach a course this sem.) and patience. May be this prolonged study will get me an Ignobel
I am sorry; I have a question to you.
You answered the questions about ILP procedure, but I am still not clear about that.
I called Honda Dealer and they said they never heard about that.
Could you clarify, please?
My Honda CRV SE 2005 eats 14 miles per gallon, and I a very concerned about that.
Thanks,
Peter
The XM radio was great to have on the trip. The overall ride on the road was good, solid, and not harsh with 4 adults (that's the max that could fit with comfort). The CRV handles very well.
Are you saying the Honda dealer never heard of the ILP or that they never heard it can affect mileage if not done? Either of those would suggest that it was not done!
I got involved with it after disconnecting my battery. The mileage dropped 3-4 MPG!
After doing the ILP the mileage returned to normal. Other folks have tried it and had favorable results. Others had no change. It is possible that the no change folks's cars were done correctly at the dealer, so doing it again would have no effect.
Here is the Service bulletin for the Pilot.
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x02-029e.pdf
Go to the left side of page 3. The ILP is just under removing the tags from the seats, near the top of the page. Notice that the Bulletin says that anytime the battery or certain fuses are disconnected the ILP should be done.
For a quick way of doing the ILP, go to post 202 ,Page 11, of the Pilot "Real World Mileage".
I don't pretend to understand the reason for the ILP. Just like I don't understand why this computer works. I just know that, if I do it correctly, it functions properly.
Both our Honda's average better than most folks post. The Pilot averages 17-19 every fill up. The CR-V about 22 for my wife and 24-25 for me in local driving.
On the road, the Pilot has gotten a high of 27++ and a low of 18 mpg. Usually in the 25-26 mpg range. The CR-V has gotten as high as 30++ and averages 28 or so with it's 4wd and 4 speed auto.
And yes I have been challenged and practically called a liar. But others have also reported way above average figures.
ILP takes very little effort. It may or may not help. It certainly can not hurt! If the car is kept for a few years, that battery is going to be disconnected or replaced, or killed. The ILP will need doing, according the the service bulletin.
Hope this has answered your question. If not please ask again.
Kip
I really appreciate your help.
Peter
It got even worse. I checked today before the light came out. Total mileage before light-176.7-------- 14.148 gallons, which is equal to 12.5 miles per gallon.
It is so frustrating. I will do ILP procedure myself as you said. I will also try to change the oil since I purchased this car month ago and I don't know what oil they used prior.
Thanks.
With mileage that bad, it would seem you have some real problems. The ILP can help some, but not as much as you need.
Go ahead and do it, and see what happens. Are you sitting in serious traffic?
Like 30 minutes to go 3 miles type traffic?
Kip
If you are saying that ILP is not going to help me much, I don't know what I should do then. I asked my friends who are in the motor business about this issue, they said
may be it is due to low tire pressure. I checked the tires,
they are OK. When I drive I see how the arrow falls rapidly after every 10 miles. It is a terrible feeling.
What do you think if I call HONDA directly and tell them problem, will they send the inspector?
Thanks.
How many miles are on the car? What is the year and drive type. ( Auto? 4wd?)
Poor mileage can be the result of one particular thing or an accumulation of several things.
If you bought the car new, you need to be at the dealer. Let them fix it!
If you bought the car used from a Honda dealer, they need to Fix It!.
If it is a used car bought from an individual, you may still have some help through Honda. It is possible, but not likely, that something to do with Emissions is causing the problem and is warranted by the manufacturer for something like 50K miles. However, this should turn on the "Check Engine" light.
If it is a used car:
Be sure the "Check Engine" light is not burned out. All the dash light come on for us to check when we first turn on the key. Then they go out after a few seconds. It may actually say "Check Engine" or it may be an icon shaped like an engine.
Do the ILP. according to the instructions in Post 202 of the Pilot Real world mileage. Don't try to rush it or take short cuts. Remember, it is IDLE LEARN. The computer could be seriously confused for some unknown reason. Doing the ILP might allow it to re-group! :confuse:
Change the oil, using "Mobil" 1 synthetic of the proper weight. Use a HONDA brand oil filter. Car should have at least 10k miles before using synthetic oil.
Change the air filter if it looks dirty or suspect. Honda Brand. Don't waste your money on the so called high mileage/high performance filters.
Look around, under the hood, for anything that might be disconnected or loose.
Make sure everything that is supposed to be turned by the serpentine belt is turning freely. And the AC compressor is not turning when the AC is turned off.
To check the AC, watch the compressor pulley. When it is "off", only the outside of the pulley turns. When "on" the whole pulley will turn. It helps to have someone inside the car operate the switch while you watch the compressor.
Add a good Fuel Injector Cleaner to 1 or 2 tanks of gas. Partially clogged injectors can result in gas droplets rather than the proper mist.
Make sure none of the brakes are dragging.
Personally, if doing the above had no effect, I would visit my Honda dealer or Honda specialty shop for an electronic analysis as well as an engine compression check.
Sometimes a problem can exist that will not show up as "check engine" or even while doing an electronic analysis. Then a knowledgeable mechanic is priceless.
Example: Our 03 Pilot started shuttering badly when trying to lock the torque converter at around 50 mph. Felt like the tranny was coming apart. I nursed it to the dealer and they observed the problem, but nothing showed up when reading the computer. Honda tech support was no help to the dealer. Finally one of the service writers said, "I remember that problem. It is the EGR valve". They checked the valve and it failed the check. Replacing the valve under the emissions warranty solved the problem. Nobody there could successfully explain to me why the "Exhaust Gas Recirculating" valve would only affect the torque converter locking up. But it did!
It really helps to have a mechanic involved that can look beyond the analysis box!
Kip
Once I purchased it I took it to two independent dealers, and they said they didn't find any problem.
I will do everything what you listed here, hopefully it will help.
Thanks for your help,
I really appreciate it.
Peter
This is grasping at straws!
Are the tires the correct size?
Have you checked the speedometer/odometer against a GPS?
If a GPS is not available, Expressway mile markers work pretty well. Although they may not be exact to the foot, a 10 mile stretch will do nicely. At 60 mph you should go 10 miles +/- 1/10th mile (for error), in 10 minutes +/- 6 or so seconds.
Kip
Are you estimating how much fuel you are using? If so, being off by a gallon or two will throw your calculations way off..
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kyfdx
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The CR-V seems geared on the low side, to provide good acceleration around town. But then, I doubt anything but the smallest SUV is going to deliver 30 mpg at 75 mph.
On December 31st I went to Honda Miller dealership and wanted them to check my car based on my complaints, they refused to do the checkup saying there is no engine light on, and they also told me to bring the numbers about low mpg.
I have a question. Can I attract the attention from HONDA if I keep calling them and telling my experience at multiple Honda dealerships? Can turn my car back to them as "Lemon Low" as manufactured defect? Is this good idea?
Thanks.
If I understand correctly, your CR-V is a 4wd 2005 model with about 32K miles. If you had bought it new, it would likely still be in the warranty period. It would definitely be within the emission period of 50k miles.
However since you purchased it "used", the warranty could be a bit of a problem. I don't know if the warranty is transferred to the "new" owner. I would think it does, but not positive.
I have some concerns about the car, but they may not be reliable concerns.
You said, you bought the car at an auction....! In our area, CR-Vs sell well. Used ones demand a high price. When a dealer takes one in on trade, they put it on the used car lot so they can get "prime" price for it. Or, they may sell it directly to another dealer, if they already have several. They normally don't send it to the auction, where the selling price may be below wholesale, or at least a couple of thousand dollars less than they could have gotten on their lot. Unless, of course, there is something wrong with the car.
A lot can go wrong with a car in 32K miles, if it was not properly maintained.
In all fairness, and looking at it from the dealer's viewpoint: A person comes in with a car that has logged in 32K miles. They want us to "Tell" them why it is getting poor mileage. There are no lights indicating any problems. We don't have a clue as to how the car has been maintained, but there are some items that definitely are past due and need to be done! Not hard to understand why the dealer might be reluctant. HONDA corporate might feel the same way. With questions like, have you kept up the maintenance on the vehicle? Has the 30K service been performed? If the answers are NO, they loose interest pretty fast. Of course they can answer those questions by looking on their computers. Now, if the oil changes, and other services, were done at JIFFY LUBE, Honda won't know that. However they will know if an authorized Honda dealer performed the work. If the work was done at something other than a Honda dealer, you would need Proof.
FWIW we bought our Pilot at "Honda South". About 6 months later we bought our CR-V at "Nally Honda". Nally is closer, so I moved the Pilot service over to them. They can tell me all the service work that Honda South did on that Pilot, including any Problems I had, any recalls involved, and that I have an extended Honda warranty. Apparently any and all service to a particular VIN number goes into a data base.
I say that because your Honda dealer can likely tell you of any recalls due or done as well as any problems any Honda dealer worked on for the original owner(s).
.
At 30K there is a major maintenance due on your car. I would take it to a "HONDA" dealer and have them do it. They will or should, replace the air filter, install the proper oil, change the rear end dope, service the transmission, rotate the tires. They should also check the brake pads for wear and give you a print out of the pad's condition. If you have had a brake "Dragging", the pads on that wheel will be worn excessively. Not sure but they may also check the engine valve clearance at that time. Be sure to note on the service order that it is getting poor mileage and you want engine diagnostics run. You also want any recalls performed. Also have them "Flash" the computer. Flashing basically makes the computer stupid, then re loads it with the latest and greatest information that it needs to perform properly.
That 30K service might cost you $300-$500. However you saved quite a bit at the auction.
If you mileage doesn't improve, take it back to them along with a log of your mileage and the type/conditions of your driving. Then you can/will have a case to present to HONDA corporate.
I don't believe the Lemon Laws affect anyone other than the original owner, but could be wrong. :sick:
Kip
But . . . you need to check with the department in your state that oversees their Lemon Law to be sure.
Happy New Year.
I drove an Altima V6. The new Altima engine is much faster and smoother than your CR-V. (It would be nice to have it in the CR-V). However, Nissan resale usually stinks.
In line with your discussion, I would wonder if that's why the RAV V6 gets better mileage than the CR-V in Consumer Reports. Bear in mind that it premium fuel is recommended for that car as well. (Only regular is required - but like in my wife's Sienna - it avoids pinging with premium).
Either way, best of luck with your CR-V.
I averaged about 27.8 mpg on the way up, and 27.9 mpg on the return trip, with speeds between 65-70 mph, according to the trip computer. When we got back, the car had 500 miles on the odometer.
I averaged about 27.8 mpg on the way up, and 27.9 mpg on the return trip, with speeds between 65-70 mph, according to the trip computer. When we got back, the car had 500 miles on the odometer.
So, you disregarded Honda's recomendation for the break in preiod not to maintian constant engine RPM's?
When I checked my 2008 CR-V Owner's Manual (page 226) under the section "Break-in Period", it makes no mention of not to maintain a constant engine RPMs during the break-in period. I looked at it before embarking on the trip, just to be sure.
Here's what it says, in verbatim:
Break-in Period
Help assure your vehicle's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you drive during the first 600 miles (1,000 km). During this period:
- Avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration.
- Do not change the oil until the scheduled maintenance time.
- Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles (300 km).
- Do not tow a trailer.
You should also follow these recommendations with an overhauled or exchanged engine, or when the brakes are replaced.
If your trip involved "Rolling" (Hilly) terrain rather than long endless stretches of "Flat", such as Florida or mid west;
Chances are good the tranny was locking and unlocking the torque converter, as well as also shifting from 5th (OD) back to 4th. This would especially be true if using cruise control. Therefore, the RPM was likely fluctuating a good bit.
I personally like to break one in (First 500-600 miles) on hilly back roads where there is a lot of shifting and RPM variances. Also mixing in some local and light city. After that, still being careful not to rev past 4K RPM or hard acceleration until the 1K mark.
Kip