Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
2.) Yes they sell an extended warranty. The standard powertrain warranty (engine/transmission) is 10yrs/100,000. For about $1000 you can get the entire car for 10yrs/100,000 (some dealers will go as low as $900 on the warranty).
3.) I have about 4,500 miles on my V6 Tucson and here in the DC Metro area, mostly trips less than 20 miles in traffic, I get about 20mpg. On a trip down to Va. Beach (~200miles) I got about 22-24mpg. Not too bad, but it is not a fuel mizer. It really needs a 5speed for long trips, but they do not offer one (yet).
4.) I am tall and I think the rear seating is fine in Tucson. As for cargo I have carried a fair amount of odd sized stuff in mine, including about 15 bags of pine bark mulch, Easy to load and unload.
5.) I would not expect a big change in 2006. There are rumors of a new engine, and possibly a 5 speed coming but that may not be until 2007-not sure. I throughly enjoy mine.
The CR-V is fine, but to be honest, it seems a bit tinny in construction, especially the doors seem weak. The Tucson is very stable and feels solid to drive. It is no sports car make no mistake. As for the comments about reliability, I would mention something the CR-V salesman told me when I told him I was looking at a Tucson, he sneered and said "If you make a good car you don't need a good warranty". To which I said "If you make a good car you can AFFORD a good warranty." Obviously we did not have a good test drive after that, hope this helps!
All this is question of perception. Hyundai is still somewhat stuck with the image of the Pony. Even tough their cars are just as reliable as any others today, the perception is still there and to shake away this perception, they have to provide a longer warranty.
Honda, on the other hand, sells on the excellent reputation they built in the 80's and 90's. In those years their cars were so much more reliable than the american and european cars that the public still perceive them today as more reliable than most others. They may still have an edge but at most it is a very small one. They have cut cost a lot in the last few years...
With the much lower price and longer warranty of the Tucson, for me the choice was obvious.
at 12K miles/year and $2.50/gallon you would save $300/year in the CR-V
at 12K miles/year and $3.00/gallon you would save $360/year in the CR-V
at 15K miles/year and $2.50/gallon you would save $375/year in the CR-V
at 15K miles/year and $3.00/gallon you would save $450/year in the CR-V
You get the idea. The initial "much lower price" of purchasing a Tucson rapidly disappears over the first years of ownership. Not to mention resale value where the Honda will be guaranteed to hold up, same can't be said of the Hyundai.
Don't get me wrong, the Tucson is a great little car. I almost bought one. Good luck with yours and I hope for your sake you are correct. I just felt the Honda was a financially better choice.
Ours is the 4 cyl. and we get 23.5 mpg in mostly city driving.
The CR-V is certainly a very good vehicle. I owned one of the first ones to get here in March 97. I owned it for 4 years and had nothing to complain about reliability wise.
Enjoy your CR-V!
Enjoy your CR-V, I love my Tucson, V-6 mileage (and extra horsepower) and all.
I bought a 2005 Tucson GLS with the V6 in August. First BRAND NEW car I've owned in 42 years of driving. I LOVE it. We compared the Tucson to a friend's CRV and liked the Hyundai's added safety features, ride and the fit & finish both inside and outside. Style is not a major consideration since we drive cars at least 7-10 years. Plus, the Tucson was about $6,000 less than the CRV. Have almost 5,800 miles on it now and absolutely NO problems. If it keeps up that way, I'll be a brand-loyal customer.
CRV is also proven safe in crash testing. Tucson has yet to be tested.
Tucson Crash Test
We have a lot of forums available for comparing the Tuscon and CR-V... or, just to discuss the Tuscon's many attributes...
So, let's move it on over there...
thanks,
kyfdx
Host-Prices Paid Forums
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
As mentioned in the title, this is 2005 model, not 2006.
I drove it upto 500 miles so far and I really like it.
My cash on it was worthwhile.
Purplewolf
The lowest "bid" that I was told was their "final offer" and was $22,500 + sales tax (freight and PDI included in price quoted). These are Canadian dollars btw
I sent my brother in, for a quick test and he was given a quote of $25,500 + sales tax.
So should I assume that my quote for a 2006 GL 2.0L FWD - Air Pkg MANUAL is a really good deal even though it is above MSRP (but the lowest of 8 dealerships) or should I expect to save a bit more if I keep at them. I was hoping to pay $22,000 + sales tax...is this unrealistic?
Thanks in advance for any help....I am so new at this!
I paid $21,000. for the same model, a 2005 last fall. At the time Hyundai was offering a $1,500. incentive so the price I paid is similar to yours, even tough the 2006 is $700. more expensive than the 2005.
If you are not in a hurry, you can wait for January, Hyundai may offer more incentives then. Another possibility is to reply to the dealer with the $22.5K offer and offer him the $22K. at the very end of December. He'll probably take it.
Good luck
I live in Central Texas.
I was really impressed with the safety features and the ride of the GLS I drove, but I don't want to pay near MSRP for a car that I know will depreciate worse than a domestic. I don't think Hyundais are bad cars, and the warranty impresses me, but I can get a better discount on a Toyota!
What have people recently paid OTD for a plain automatic GL or GLS? I don't want any options really other than auto tranny.
I got them to 22,300 and they threw in some floor mats...so I am pretty happy with that...not sure if I could have gotten much more taken off if I were to spend a few more hours haggling.
2005 model Tucson = -1000
Owner loyalty = -500
Finance through Hyundai = -500
(Some dealers also offer a 200 rebate for purchase through Internet)
Does anybody know what will happen to those rebates after 1/3?
There are currently 2+ rebates on the 2005 Hyundai Tucson that are good through 1/3:
Owner loyalty = -500
Finance through Hyundai = -500
(Some dealers also offer a 200 rebate for purchase through Internet)
Does anybody know what will happen to those rebates after 1/3?
I'm in the process of buying a 2006 Tucson GLS with the sunroof, I think it's called the PREMIUM PACKAGE. the dealer wants to charge me
$600- destination cost ( which I'm ok with) Prep -
$500 and
Hyundai Advertising cost $500.
are these two illegitimate costs on a new car. I got the car $21K plus 1K in rebates. total cost of Car plus registration and NYS tax (8.75%) and another $45 dealer charge would be about 24K.
Does this sound correct?
I haven't gotten a new car in over 11 years
My last car was a 95 Saturn, brought on Nov of 94. So it's been a while
I too got a 20K offer with the following
$493 prep costs
$500 advertising fee ( which in our conversation he started by saying it was already included, when I laughed out loud at him, he re-tracted the comment saying it was a slip, he had meant to say not included)
I'm looking at a Tucson GLS - 4wheel with Premium pkg
my total is coming to 24K after tazs and fees
is this a deal or am I being taken for a ride
Good deal?
The MSRP on this base model is $18,745 (about $1,100) over invoice.
What would be a good purchase price from a bast model like this ? Thanks !
That was Californai 8.25% tax + lic and fees well, everything included.
Not sure how good this is compaired with all ya but please let me know.
take care!
I thought I was getting a pretty good deal when I signed the papers a few hours ago, but after getting home and reviewing the agreements, I am wondering if I got duped with some of these nickel and dime fees that were apparently thrown in. The MSRP on the sticker was 24,085 and the est invoice cost on Edmunds.com was around 21,500 (WITHOUT tax and tags) .. I welcome others opinions - good deal or not?
thanks,
Paul
Edmunds has a great Financial Calculator that compares Low APR’s to Cash Back. If you go to the “New Car” section, then to “Financing” you’ll find it towards the middle of the page. Plug in all the numbers and it will show you which will save you the most money.
Is the$21,628.34 with the $1000 rebate and before tax, tags, fees etc?
Or is the $22,688.11 the “Out the door” with all the tax, tags, fees etc included the special financing and customer loyalty?
The $22,688 is "out-the-door with 4.9% financing."
Thanks, I'm going to go to Financial Calculator.
I brought my 2006 Platinum Green Limited 4WD with every option except for mud flaps $200 below invoice and went with the 4.9% finance. I was pleased with the price, didn’t have to pay any extra bogus fees that I hear about and enjoyed the whole car buying experience. It really helps to do your homework.
I absolutely LOVE my Tucson and do not worry the MPG will go up as the engine breaks in.
Good luck! Let us know what your final decision is.
If rebate price is $20,881, why is he adding the $1,000 into calulations making the price $21,881 which he adds tax and title,THEN, he deducts #1,000? Does this make sense?
Then, I said I wanted the 4.9% financing and $500 loyalty with no rebate or 21,881 plus 3.5% sales and 16.50 title =$22,663.50 -$500 loyalty=22163.50 "out-the-door" times 6.5% financing for 60 mos. =$27,592.
TMV said take the cash!
I personally went with the lower APR. You might want to ask the folks over in the Sonata folder about how their rebates were calculated since many of them recently brought cars with the $2500 rebates.
During the First 1,200 Miles (2,000 Km)
No formal "break-in" procedure is required with
your new Hyundai. However, you can contribute
to the economical operation and durability of
your Hyundai by observing the following recommendations
during the first 1,200 miles (2,000
km).
o Don't drive faster than 55 MPH (88 km/h). (This is a tough one to follow.)
o While driving, keep your engine speed (rpm,
or revolutions per minute) between 2,000
rpm and 4,000 rpm.
o Use moderate acceleration. Don't start
quickly or depress the accelerator pedal
fully.
o For the first 200 miles (300 km), try to avoid
hard stops.
o Don't lug the engine (in other words, don't
drive so slowly in too high a gear that the
engine "bucks"-shift to a lower gear).
o Whether going fast or slow, vary your speed
from time to time.
o Don't let the engine idle longer than 3 minutes
at one time.
o Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200 miles
I pretty much followed their suggestions with exception to the “Don't let the engine idle longer than 3 minutes at one time.” I had to run into the store, left my family in the car for 5 minutes with the AC on. It was 101 degrees that day, I didn't want them to melt.