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Mitsubishi 3000GT help

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    airbrnizzyairbrnizzy Member Posts: 5
    :) thank you. I would not of gone w/ 18in wheels myself. But the car came with them and unfortunitely I like how they look. As for the shocks, I have not even looked at them. But I do have that button that says ECS on the dash. When I hit it the light lights up but I really can not feel any difference. So I thought maybe they were bad (109K on them.). So the redline Synthetic transmission oil will help when I shift the car ( did i mention it was a stick, I think I left that part out). Thank you for your help by the way
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay. I don't know much about ECS and what options you have in modifying that system. This is going to take some homework on your part. You might have to go to a real specialty 3000GT board (but please remain here as well). I'm under the impression that ECS limits your options.

    But 18" are going to beat you up. Maybe you could swap someone for their 17"s?

    Does your green ECS light blink? If so the system might be inoperative, and you may have defaulted into "sport" mode, which is the harshest setting. You could check to see if the connections on the top of each strut are still clean and intact.
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    airbrnizzyairbrnizzy Member Posts: 5
    No, the default setting is NOT sport mode 9when I hit button it turns on and says SPORT. and it does not flash. the 18s for 17s might not be too bad of an idea glad i thought of that (j/k). I am SOOOOO ignorant with the specialty boards and this forum ( new to all this). I was trying to figure out if the actual shocks are adjustable or what. Basically when i hit the button 9assuming it works that is) what exactly transpires to make the car go to SPORT mode? I highly doubt the shocks are air ride suspension so thats not what happens( i do not think). Basically what does the car do that makes it in SPORT mode.
    Oh, also I am assuming the manual transmission things voids your idea of using the syn transmission stuff. It just seems to not smoothly go thru the gears when I am shifting. Like I need some sort of lube in there to make it slide smoothly.
    Again, this is all new to me. I am a product of the 80s and i am still stuck in that error. I no NOTHING about these new tuner type cars and even less about ANYTHING electronic. if its not a simple V-8 w/ carbs I am pretty useless ( my wife says I am useless all around :)
    and as usual, thank you for your time and efforts in helping me
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The 3000GT with ECS is a very complex car and you'll need to buy the workshop manual and join the 3000GT club in order to deal with it.

    One easy way to test if your active suspension is working is to bounce down on a corner of the car in one mode and then the other. The car should feel noticeably firmer in the sport mode than in the touring mode. You must be in touring mode because with 18" + sport mode the ride would be unbearable.
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    airbrnizzyairbrnizzy Member Posts: 5
    thats a good idea. (the jumping on the car thing) whats the 3000gt club?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    These crazies: ;)

    http://www.3si.org/
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    airbrnizzyairbrnizzy Member Posts: 5
    wow, thats a great site. whole bunch of info,. thats great thank you..
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay but come back here, too. These forums have LOTS of info on many topics that will help you with your car, that might not be 3000GT-specific.
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    merlingtomerlingto Member Posts: 10
    If you are having a bad ride in Sport mode, even with 18's, your shocks are worn out. I ride in Sport Mode all the time when I am running faster than 100 MPH, or when hitting hard turns on winding roads, and my car feels great in that mode. It is a bit rougher, but not to the point that it is uncomfortable. You should use Sport Mode any time you are racing, or just going fast for fun (100 MPH+). You have a lot better cornering control and tracking control. My car has 17's, but I have driven one with 18's and one with 19's, and both rode well in Tour mode, and drove good in Sport mode as well. Although I didn't like the 19's at all, they looked stupid with one inch of rubber around them, heh heh.
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    msg3000gtmsg3000gt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 3000 gt with 77m miles. last night the check engine light came on and when driving with the overdrive switch in the on position it makes a kind of downshift and thud just as you stop, BUT only in overdrive, not when that is turned off. No other problems or noises. No slipping while driving, thats all. Anyone had this issue before??
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    tru1tru1 Member Posts: 4
    hey guys. i have a 92 sl and i want to put a 99 vr4 spoiler on it. the thing is they cost close to a thousand bucks and i don't have that kind of money. i was wondering if the spoiler off of an lancer evo 8 would fit. i can get one of those for about $250.00 off ebay. they look about the same but i dont know if it would fit. can anyone help me out on this? thanx.
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    freenowfreenow Member Posts: 5
    Hello Aaron or Jeffrey,

    Aaron's post describes the situation with my 1992 3000GT SI exactly. Was running great, starting driving - and in a blink I'm getting no spark. Like someone cut off a light switch. Problem is intermittant. I have an excellent mechanic and he is crying aftre chasing this for 3 days without resolution.

    Did you resolve the problem and what was the fix?

    Thanks in advance.
    Ron Belliveau
    freenow@bellsouth.net
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    triplej420triplej420 Member Posts: 1
    Well i just got my 93 3000gt but its an automatic and as far as i know not twin turbo. Im not really that savvy with vehicles but i would like to know as much as possible about my own car. Im not sure if it has to have the Twin Turbo to be a vr4....i know it sounds dumb but im not sure and i dont want to be a total idiot.

    Im also not sure if i can buy performance mods. If i can are they different for the twin turbo and manual transmission versions?
    I reall really need help otherwise ill never know.
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    gigem4499gigem4499 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can get a set of headlights for a 1999 3000GT. My son bought one without the lights because someone stole them. We are in central Texas and having a hard time finding someone with replacement parts for this type of car...at least in a reasonable price range. He located some that the guy wanted $1500 for, I just can't believe that it will cost that much to get the car right. Thanks for any help.
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    freenowfreenow Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I recently purchased one flip-up headlight for my 1992 3000GT for under $50, including shipping to my home, on eBay. A search for "3000GT headlight" turns up 53 results on eBay Motors for parts.

    If you are just looking for the lens/light, it should be fairly easy. If you need the unit that the light mounts into, it may take a while and you will want to save one or more searches so eBay will notify you when it is available.

    You might also want to consider obtaining a 3000GT manual on CD to help ID parts.

    And 3si.org (http://www.3si.org/) is a very helpful community that you may wnat to join.

    Good luck with your search.

    Ron
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    jamj1234jamj1234 Member Posts: 24
    Help, My oil light sensor is on. (Looks like an oil can in the dash). Started coming on and off a few weeks ago and now is in all the time. Oil pressure gage is showing good pressure. I bought a new electrical oil sensing switch but can not find where it goes on the engine. Can someone direct me? Do you think I am going in the right direction to solve this problem.

    Thanks,
    Jack
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is a duplicate question that is already being handled in our magnificent ANSWERS department:

    http://answers.edmunds.com/defaultloggedin.aspx
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    mr3000gt67mr3000gt67 Member Posts: 2
    i just bought a 91 3000GT for 250 dollars and im having problems with the clutch. the clutch master cylinder cap isnt going on all the way, is there a ring or collar that fits around the cap. the clutch wont engage at all and i need help or a good picture of the clutch master cylinder cup.
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    jamj1234jamj1234 Member Posts: 24
    I recently replaced my clutch master Cylinder. The new one has a white snap on plastic cap. I will send a picture to your e-mail address from my cell phone camera.

    My car is a 95" 3000GT. In the last year I have replaced the clutch (aprox. $1700.00 I think) and recently the Clutch master cylinder. I have owed the car for 2 years and previously the clutch was grabing very high. Now it is working as it should.
    Jack
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    mr3000gt67mr3000gt67 Member Posts: 2
    thank you very much for your reply to my question im hoping that this is my problem i cant wait to get the pic of the clutch master cylinder if you can send a pic of the car also and thanks again from this new 3000GT owner
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    jamj1234jamj1234 Member Posts: 24
    I will need your e-mail to send a pic. However I am bot sure the cap will be causing your problem. When I bought my car the clutch was grabing high on the pedal stroke. eventualy the clutch started slipping when driving. The new cluch resolved that problem to the point I almost could not puss the pedal far enough to disengage to shift. The new Cluch master cylinder then solved my 2nd problem.
    Your car not engaging could mean your clutch friction plate is wiped out.

    If you have hydrolic fluid in the master I don't believe having the cover off should not matter for it to function.

    Jack
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    3kgtvr43kgtvr4 Member Posts: 19
    I had a problem in which mine would just choke on rapid acceleration only. Turns out it was the ECU. This is a widely known problem on the older 3S cars. Do a search for guys who do ECu repairs. Check the DSM boards also those guys have done more mods and repairs than us 3S guys. its about a $150 fix. And my car ran like new afterwards.

    My 3000gt website
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    3kgtvr43kgtvr4 Member Posts: 19
    The twin turbo models from the factory only came in manual transmission. Now someone could have upgraded your engine to twin turbo. Its been done before. You can look at the pics on my 3000gt VR4website and see what your engine bay looks like. If you are an NA (naturally aspirated) model you can still upgrade your intake and exhaust for some horsepower gains. Check with the guys at 3SX for those and other mods you can buy for your car. I met those guys at the 3S National Gathering and they are true 3S guys all the way.
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    3kgtvr43kgtvr4 Member Posts: 19
    Well the reason they were probably stolen as they are HID lights. That is also why they are very expensive. There are tons of 3S members in central Texas. I know I used to live in Oklahoma and have met many of them at the Texas club gatherings. Do a google search for the 3S Texas club. You can also check the boards at 3Si Forums to see if any one is parting out a 99 model.

    If you are going on a tight budget maybe see if you can put in some regular ones from a 96 to 98 year model. They wont be HID and the power systems may not be compatible. If you join the 3si club local or national you can get discounts from many Mitsubishi dealerships around the country. You can find one out of state and they might not charge you sales tax. Good luck in your hunt.
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    dirty13dirty13 Member Posts: 3
    i don't care what they say but i know your problem. i had the same thing happen to me and since i'm in the military also i know what you mean about money. know one could figure out the problem and i just had to do it myself. it's your battery terminals. check your ground if you can wiggle it or the other wires connected to it. if you can than just tighten the wire. i bet that will work. to make sure every time you drive the car look at your bat when you are driving if you see it drop than the next time you turn your car on and it won't turn on than that is the problem
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    dirty13dirty13 Member Posts: 3
    check your battery and tighten the terminal
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    dirty13dirty13 Member Posts: 3
    it's your windshield wiper fluid light if it looks like a cage than that's what it is. if you have your fluids topped oof. alot of people forget to fill there rear window fluid. just pop the trunk and it's on the right side near your taillight
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    sdarbesdarbe Member Posts: 6
    Name is scott, I just replaced my clutch prolly 3 months ago. When driving my car around I go to shift and it shifts really hard. I try to down shift and I fight my car everytime I go to shift from 3rd to 2nd and from 2nd to first it is really bad. Why is it doing this!!! also when I am driving I go to out my foot in the pedal and if I hold my foot on the pedal for more then 3 seconds or so, the clutch will suck to the floor and be stuck down there, I then have to reach down and pull it back up and it goes back to normal.. I just had my slave cylender replaced and that did nothing.. I am pretty sure I had my master cylnder replaced bout year or 2 ago.. But cant quit remember. I was always having to put clutch fluid in and had that fixed, but cant remember if they just replaced the line or the whole masters. I just want to know why its doing this. I have put alot of money in this car and plan to do whatever it takes to fix my baby. If any one has had a similar prob I would love to know about it and what I should do to fix this problem. If you need further info about it I am open for answers. PLEASE!!! its a 1993 SL!!!
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You have a problem with the clutch hydraulics. Either the clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, or the line is leaking or either master or slave is defective. This shouldn't be too hard to figure out. You can't shift because there's not enough hydraulic pressure being applied to the clutch.
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    dadallendadallen Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    My 3000GT is in Default mode. The trans will only shift into Park, Neutral and 3rd gear. I was told that the ECU needed to be replaced and that was all that it needed. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
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    sdarbesdarbe Member Posts: 6
    Well see I just replaced the slave, when I went back to tell him its still doing the same thing he said he just needed to bleed the line again. I just dont see how a simple bleeding of the line will improve my pressure. Its very obvious that there is a lack of pressure to shift the clutch. You think if this whole bleeding of the line does not work, I should just go ahead and replace the Masters? Is this whole lack of pressure causing my clutch to suck to the floor? I have to shift fast in order for my clutch not to go to the floor. It fluctuates alot also. I just wanted to let you know what all problems I am having with it. thanks for responding!
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    fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    the mits ecu in the 3000gt have a big problem of blowing capacitors in the ecu remove the ecu and open it up and if you see a burned spot then the ecu CAN BE REPAIRED as long as the capacitor did not burn through the mainboard on many of these ecu's ive seen finger sized holes burned thru the pc board making them unrepairable. hope yours is not that way very hard to find that ecu
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh yeah bleeding is critical and also not so easy on some clutch slave cylinders.

    One thing you can do is TEST the slave master cylinder by disconnecting all the lines to it, then inserting brass or iron plugs of the correct thread, and then pumping up the master cylinder and bleeding it by loosening those plugs one by one. If by doing this the master holds pressure no matter how hard you stand on the pedal, then your master is good.

    It's also a good way to bleed the system, but starting with a properly bled master.

    Sometimes clutch slave cylinders are so stubborn you have to power bleed them using a power bleeder.
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    sdarbesdarbe Member Posts: 6
    Okay, ya I just did not know if a simple bleeding of the line was gonna fix my problem I have been having. Its goin to the shop tomorrow and I will have him bleed all the lines and see if he can check them all out for a defective one to be sure of things. I just know I never had these problems until after I had them put my new clutch in. Its real obvious that I have no pressure on my clutch when I go to shift, always loose and never stays in one spot. Just think its all in those lines huh? you think maybe the guy might have messed somethin up internally in the clutch? maybe the release bearing is messed? Just curious as hell.. But definatly goin to the shop in the morning and having them bleed the lines for me. I will let you know how it goes and we can go from there! hope it fixes it!!! thanks again man
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Your symptoms SOUND like a hydraulic issue yes. It's certainly worth a shot.
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    3kgtvr43kgtvr4 Member Posts: 19
    Well it does sound like a hydraulic problem. But there is a vacuum hose that assists with the clutch on the turbo model. I am not sure on the NA model. But you may want to look into it. That hose has a one way valve in it so it does not bleed boost pressure. If that hose was put on backwards it might display the symptoms your explaining about the pedal staying down.

    Good luck My Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's a good suggestion. Never thought of that.

    Here's the test for the clutch vacuum booster:

    1. Run engine for one minute or more, then stop engine.
    2. Step on clutch pedal several times with normal pressure.
    3. If pedal depressed fully the first time but gradually becomes higher when depressed several times, the booster is operating correctly.
    4. If pedal height remains unchanged, booster is faulty.
    5. With engine stopped, step on clutch pedal several times with same foot pressure. Then step on clutch pedal and start engine.
    6. If pedal moves downward slightly, booster is in good condition. If there is no change in pedal height, booster is faulty.
    7. With engine running, step on clutch pedal and stop engine.
    8. If pedal height does not change, booster is operating correctly. If pedal height rises, booster is faulty.
    9. If one or more of above test fail, ensure condition of valve and vacuum hose. If satisfactory replace booster.
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    sdarbesdarbe Member Posts: 6
    Okay, so when I went to my car this morning to take it to the shop I was warming my car up(as I do every morning) I got curious and started to pump the clutch pumped it ten times or so, then stoped, then did half pumps. the clutch then got real stiff and was how a clutch should feel, I rested my foot on the clutch to see if it would suck to the floor and it didnt. It still however was not engaging properly. I drove to the shop and I was still fighting to down shift to second and first. Its not quite what you were gonna have me do but it was similar. So anyway.... I told them I did that at the shop, they bleed the slave line again as planned. When I went to pick it up, the guy started messing with the master, and adjusted it to where I had full clutch and while he was messing with that it sunk to the floor on him. He suggested we replace the masters again, he feels that whoever put it in last time did not put in the right size of rod, because he could not adjust the rod to its fullest with my clutch somethin like that.. I got kinda lost with everything he was saying to me. He believs that this could maybe fix my problem with the engaging and disengaging I am having. So I am gonna let my car rest for awhile then go out and see if the clutch is holding the pressure I pumped into it. So what do you guys think??
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    fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    well i just had to put my 2 cents worth in here as a resident transmission expert..

    there is a REMOTE possibility that the rod for the master is to short especially if a reman master cylinder was used (find out where it came from) although it may be a little more expensive i may suggest a factory master cylinder from the dealership at least you will know it "should" be correct for your car and then the original oem master rod should be adjustable like it should be
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    sdarbesdarbe Member Posts: 6
    My clutch seems fine now. I replaced the slave cylnder and masters. It seems to be shifting alot better, its goin into gear alot smoother, and my down shifting is a hell of a alot better. I do however have a problem going into first, but I guess mitsubishi does not put a sincro in the transmission for first gear, making it hard for me to shift into first. But it does seem improved. I am gonna drive around for a couple weeks and see how it does. See if it stays consistant. Thank you everybody for the words.. I was so lost on why I was having these problems, I must have went to 20 different shops tryin to figure out what was goin on exactly, but I kept getting all sorts of reasons. I do however have another question for everone. I bought some glow gauges, the ones that are white during the day and blue at night. Am i really gonna have to pull my whole dash to get to my center gauges?? thanks guys
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm sure you have first synchro. It could just be tired because it's an old car.
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    fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    unless you go way back in years all standard transmissions have synchronizers on 1st gear. if your complaint about getting into 1st gear is a downshift complaint from 2nd to 1st that is pretty much normal on a older vehicle. personally i dont downshift to first gear until im at a full stop. but its each individuals driving habits that determine what is felt to be normal operation.

    Gene
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    sdarbesdarbe Member Posts: 6
    How do you recalibrate your gauges? can you do it threw your computer? or do you have to pull out your center gauges and manually do it?
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    p4yn3p4yn3 Member Posts: 1
    I am really looking into buying a 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT LS (only 128k miles, Muffler Master Cat back single to "Y" dual exhaust System, and High Flow Air Filter)and I was wondering if any one knew of any history of a cracked block or blown head gaskets? The reason I ask is because the owner says that white smoke comes out of the exhaust sometimes and I have been told that that could mean a cracked block or a blown head Gasket. Please give me some incite. :confuse: Thanks!
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well any old car would be susceptible to failing head gaskets, as this is an item that takes a lot of punishment. White smoke, more like steam, coupled with a coolant odor out the exhaust, is a definite sign of head gasket or head failulre. There does NOT have to be water in the oil, either.

    A sure-fire test is to pressurize the cooling system with a pump, then pull the spark plugs and look for coolant on the tips of the plugs.
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    allievrwantedallievrwanted Member Posts: 3
    My 1995 3000GT puts out white smoke, but I was told that the valves were leaking, although I don't see any oil leaking out. It does consume a lot of oil. I was also told to not waste my money by fixing it. To just keep putting oil in it. What? Untill it dies?

    Make sure you know what you are getting into!
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    jamj1234jamj1234 Member Posts: 24
    White smoke has always been an indicator of water, pointing to a head gasket or cracked head.

    Good luck
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    3kgtvr43kgtvr4 Member Posts: 19
    You have to manually do it. The center gauges are hard to get to. Normally you have to pull the whole dash. Its a 4 to 6 hour job. If you have super small hands some people have luck by pulling the vents, the radio, the glove box, etc and get to them, but it would be tons of frustration.

    If you pull the dash be sure to replace your two vent rims on the top. They are most likely cracked. the new ones from the dealer are of a new design that will not crack as easily as the old ones. This is the time to do it and any other dash mods you want to do. Like new guage faces, new gauges, or wiring.

    I have done this a couple of time. I thought I had pics on my website but could not find it. Stealth316 has the take apart also.
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    3kgtvr43kgtvr4 Member Posts: 19
    Yes white smoke is water but you will need to see it. If it has a slight blueish tint then it could be oil. So do a simple compression test also.

    Doing some top end work is not too expensive. There is a link on this web page for Mitsubishi Rebuild Parts Their prices are the very good. Just look for the 3.0 liter 6G72 engine list.

    Good Luck
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    91mitsu191mitsu1 Member Posts: 3
    My turbo is drying up and I need to replace it. Can I upgrade to 13g's without problems? I have 9b's now...
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