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2013 and earlier-Mercedes-Benz M-Class Lease Questions
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It sounds like a good deal to me, since based on the lease I read about here, it's not that easy to get something really fantastic.
I have contacted 12 dealers and all the other ones got very mad when I asked them for something in this ballpark.
Also, the dealer is willing to drive the car door to door to my house (to Tulsa,OK from Kansas City,MO) and he'll drive the R350 lease I'm returning (he said he looked up the VIN and is interested in it and this way won't have to pay the acquisition fee).
Here's the deal, please let me know ASAP what you think, I think it's pretty good:
"I get paid a percentage from invoice. Bottom line is at $1200 over triple net ($200 being hard pack for fuel and preparation) would be $49,100 including the $2,000 lease cash. That is what I have gotten them to approve. Base payment for 36 months/10,000 mile lease will be $525. Base payment does not include applicable sales tax for your area. This lease is figured with $1899 total out of pocket, which includes all fees and first month’s base payment. Sales tax will be approximately $20 to $23 dollars more per month based on sales tax for your area."
I should add the MRSP for this ML 4wd is 56,015. It's the color I want.
Whenever I contacted all the dealers I told them I knew about the $2,000 lease cash back, Residual value....and one of them replied that he liked people doing their homework and would honor the 2k cash back as well as the $1775 dealer discount.
So that's how I found out.
That particular dealer shot me though when I told him about the deal another dealer was offering (the one I just posted). He got really mad at me and said "I'm in this business to make a profit, you...".
So I take it that the (super friendly) dealer who right away offered 6K down from MSRP is giving me a good deal.
I'll see what the feedback on the final deal is, but at least the guy is friendly and accommodating, not charging anything to deliver the car to me, as long as I'm OK with him driving it here and letting him take my R350 lease (using the loyalty accelerator program).
My advice - take the deal, considering delivery service and the color you want. Plus, $56k ML is nicely equipped.
Make sure to do the paperwork over the phone to secure the car like I wrote in post #610.
Good luck.
Plus it got the one option I was hoping to have: Parktronic.
I have it on my R350 and love it, but for some reason couldn't find it in any ML I looked at even when I still considered the white one.
Don't really care for the wood/leather steering wheel but it seems you can't find a car without it.
All in all, this one dealer was really nice, offered 6K less than MRSP for his first offer.
Considering how awful the deals of the other dealers were, I'm almost suspicious of this deal.
I did ask for floor mats thrown in, just to try at least, since whenever you lease a car you have to get some and at the same time, they usually don't fit the next car you get.
Thanks to all who helped me get this deal.
I'll post again once I get the car and all is signed! I did ask to get all the paperwork faxed to me right away to make sure everything is correct. I don't think they could swap car for another one since this one was really the last blue one around, I guess that's the silver lining in the fact that the blue one is hard to get
2010 ML 350 $55,885 msrp
36 mo 10k
0 out of pocked (all rolled into lease)
650 a month
Could you tell me what the money factor/residual would be for 36 months, 12K miles per year on the ML350 2WD?
I am hoping to secure a 36 or 39 month lease, 15K miles, of the 2010 ML350 before year end. The options I want are:
P1 package
Rear entertainment package
heated front seats
wooden wheel detailing
I have gotten two quotes thus far, both of which were north of $800 per month with sales tax (one was $805, one was $817) with about 2000 down (first month payment, acquisition fee, documents fees). After reading some posts, I feel these are light years away from what others are being offered and absurd. So, a few questions:
1) what is a good deal on the above terms? I'm located in Boston if that matters.
2) how much are dealers taking off the sticker price these days? (is the 2K cash incentive and $1,775 dealer discount still in play?
3) what is the money factor/residual for these terms?
Thank you so much in advance !! Happy holidays!
-Arctic white ML 350 2010 4matic
-36months/12k miles per year
-MSRP: $55,934
-Premium 1 package
-Heated front seats
-Wood/leather steering wheel
-Running boards
-Rear seat entertainment pre-wiring
-3 year Maintenance package
$5770 (includes first month payment, cap cost reduction, ny dmv fees etc.)
$560 per month (includes all taxes)
Iridium silver, P1, heated seats, running board,
55,885 sticker, 10k 36 month
due at signing only 1st payment $650 (all rolled into payment)
total cost for 36 months $23,400
The more you roll into payment the better - if the car is totalled early on you lose that down payment money!
also the prepaid maintenance is B.S. - $275 for an oil change and reset the light year one, $475 for same and year two!!!!
I am actually considering 48 months b/c the warrantee is 4yr 50kmiles
This is what he just emailed me: MSRP: $56,015, selling price: $49,100, L.E.V. 53%,
residual value: $29,687.95, acquisition fee: $1,095 (this is where I have a problem, he said that MB charges $795 but dealers in this region mark it up by $300, is this true, I've never heard of this and want to know if that's where he's getting me?), cash cap reduction: $1,095, total sales tax: $1839, adjusted cap cost: $49,100, base monthly: $566, monthly use tax: 9,0710%,: $51, total payment: $617, administrative fee: $199, amount due at start: $1,991, cash short over: -$1,991
Can someone look it up and tell me if it's still a good deal? Of course I'm aware the agreed price hasn't changed, but the extra $300 is fishy to me, wasn't there on the first paper work I got from him.
He's waiting for an answer so please let me know fast.
Also, what does the cash cap reduction means? when we agreed on a price it was my understanding that the acquisition fee was part of the agreed price, is this still the case? is that what the cash cap reduction means, that the acquisition fee is included in the selling price agreed ($49,100).
Thanks
Do the new numbers $49,100 + $1,095 acquisition fee still seem like a good deal for msrp of $56,015 (including regular acquisition fee of $875, not jacked up to $1,095)?
Should I just ask them to sell the car for $48,800?
Also, I noticed that the down payment says: $1,991 but when I add the acquisition fee of $1,095 plus first month payment of $617 and $199 dealer's fee, it only adds up to $1,911 not $1,991. Where do you think this extra $80 comes from.
Thanks you so much for all your advice which I'm taking very seriously (not desperate to do this deal and will only sign up if you tell me it's a good one!).
I emailed him, attaching the original PDF regarding the car, showing a destination fee of $875, not $1,095 and said it didn't make sense to increase that fee this late, since we had finalized the deal last week already.
I also asked him about the extra $80 showing up in the down payment quoted.
Do you still think it's a good deal?
Because I feel I'm being taken for a fool after the deal was supposedly finalized, I'm lot less inclined to do this unless you tell me it's still an excellent deal.
The deal is still good. It looks like Finance Dept. is giving a hard time to Sales Dept., because they are not making any money.
Offer compromise: split $300 with them. Offer $945 toward acq. fee. Because - it's not a good business model to change numbers at the last minute, and makes the whole deal suspicious.
It's a good thing, that you did not drive there to be surprised, like I suggested...
"You are confusing destination fee of $875 (that is the fee the manufacturer charges to ship the vehicle to the dealer and is included in the MSRP) with acquisition fee which is $1095 (that is the fee MB Financial charges to acquire the lease plus dealer mark up of $300). If you look at your current lease it will show an acquisition fee but destination fee never shows up when you negotiate a sale price. The $80 dollar fee is what we pay a licensing service to register and acquire license plates for the vehicle. I’m so sorry for all the confusion."
What do you think?
did you see the answer, it's not the destination fee but rather the acquisition fee that's jacked up $300.
To me anyway you call it, it's still a "just because..." fee and I refuse to pay it, since I specifically asked about extra fees in my email agreeing to his price and he didn't mention anything.
I don't think I'll offer to split the $300.
The extra $80 for "registering and acquiring license plates is bogus too right?
NY/NJ area
56,515 10k 48 month
0 out of pocket except first month
$620/mo
(i do not have fleet discount)
If anyone wants the details i can email you
He says it's the same with this $80 registering and acquiring license plates, it's standard! (I still think it's bogus, never had to pay such a fee last time I leased, only a $10 lien fee).
He won't budge.
What to do , what to do?
Time is running out too since Wednesday is the last day he could possibly deliver the car to me.
Almost all the BMW dealers jack up their fee from $725 to the maximum allowable $925...
But, that means nothing, if he agreed to a different amount, in the first place.. Now, he wants $300 more... Trust me, this is pure profit... but, even if it wasn't, it's $300 more than what he agreed to..
You say you don't want to lose the deal over $300... but how much is too much? I'd hold him to his agreement. There is nothing that requires them to charge you an extra $300. If he needs to do that for internal business reasons, then tell him to reduce the price of the car by the same amount.
"I expect you to keep your word".. that usually works for me..
regards,
kyfdx
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Actually I'm willing to loose this deal over the principal, but I know I'll be in the same situation in few month when I actually have to turn in my R350.
And this dealer beat the other ones by far.
However, he claims that nothing has changed from the deal we agreed last week. He said he hadn't prepared the paper-work so couldn't show it to me, but insist it's standard and absolutely nothing changed from agreed lease, basically I'm stupid for expecting the regular $795 and should accept this added $300 because they always add it to other people's lease.
It's frustrating since the price seems otherwise fair.
And what do you think of the added $80 for "registering license plates"?
Right now it's a choice for you:
1) Pay $300 + $80
2) Offer to split in half to make a neutral deal.
3) Stand by your principals and stick to previous verbal deal: Take it or Leave it!
The good news is: the salesman who you are dealing with - probably, needs to sell this unit more than you want to buy it! The second news: THEY CAN DO IT, but they also have PRINCIPLES. You just need to push him a little more. Don't demand - just ask for help. I would probably go for Choice # 3 and wait, but it's 50/50 you will loose a good deal.
In your best interest the Choice #2.
My advice for the future: always negotiate bottom line: TOTAL AMOUNT OF DRIVE-OFF and TOTAL AMOUNT OF MONTHLY PAYMENT - all inclusive. This way you don't end up negotiating any banking fees.
Looking that the current winter event on the ML, and I notice that there is a "dealer contribution" involved. My question, is the $2,000 you are talking about above and beyond the dealer contribution?
Thanks in advance, hoping to decide in the next day or so...
Here's what I got today: seems like a fair deal. I am still deciding whether to get the X5 35d:
Premium 1 + Heated seats + running board + maybe some other stuff
I hated the fact that there no heated steering wheel and no lighting package to be found anywhere ML.
I had an R before, same deal, no Xenon lights. Hated every minute when it rained.
MSRP: 55705
Sale Price: 51000
MnyFctr: 0.00035
36 mo, 10k/yr
ResFactor 53%
Residual 29931.22
Adds: 769
First Pay: 3726.99 (tax, title, and first month)
Mthly Paymt: 613.57
Good or bad or ugly? :confuse:
Found a demo at local dealer with 1,000 miles MSRP 55,845 (47,300 sale price) (i did not have fleet discount unfortunately!) This dealer could not match previous offer on a "swapped in" car with hitch but made better offer on this car
Iridium Silver, P1, heated seats, running boards, pre wired and had the hitch i needed!
$599 drive off, $599 month 36months 10k miles (includes 3yrs maintenance)
best advice:
Roll as much into lease as possible
research and shop and shop
wait until end of month, year or "sale"
Where did you get this deal? What Dealership? How did you find them? Give some details on your "research and shop and shop" process.
Thanks.
Research - google search of all cars in category you are looking for at least 3 months before you are looking - then look to see what incentives each make is offering and any special discounts ( in mercedes case fleet discount -- i now know it may be possible to join USAA which would give a big fleet discount next time)
go to dealerships or call at least 2 months before you want to take delivery - you will get an idea of which ones really want to deal - they will call back with some "special authorization" the dealership has. In my case we were looking at Jeep, Nissan and believe it or not Suzuki because this was a third car for the family - we had a Pathfinder coming off lease and if we didn't hate the car so much would have named our price on a new one because the new local Nissan dealer called me 20 times and admitted how slow they were and wanted to make a sale. It got to the point where i had to tell them that i would not come to them except to drop off my leased car - which i did on saturday.
While shopping on line, I saw online "good" deals on mercedes and decided to call for the heck of it - ironically the dealer i called first was the one i made deal with after calling 5 other mercedes dealers and reading posts on here that gave me an idea of "fair" numbers. Thankfully I am in a position to afford the car but that doesn't mean i wasn't going to haggle the hell out the dealer. Don't be "afraid" to low ball - especially on a high end car - they have many customers who take the first offer! and definitely tell them you are looking around for other cars and at other dealers - this dealer did not want to lose me to another mercedes dealer nearby - ironically one i never called but they thought i was going to go to! That is key - have the attitude that YOU are buying a car - DO NOT let them try to sell you a car!!! Dont tell them a number you want until you are really close to what you feel is "fair." They have a way of always adding on something that will add to price. A large dealer will be willing to make less to not lose a sale - smaller dealerships seem to have their limits unless they really need to move a car to meet a manufacturer's number or goal. I also knew i was going to take some time off for the holidays and wanted to "enjoy" the process as i did when i was younger and had the time.
** Be willing to take a nice drive to get your car - i got my 2005 vette (first year of C6) in CT about 2hrs+ from my house - took my wife to lunch that day and saved a few thousand because that dealership wanted to sell the two they had in order to get more vettes from GM. When i got my 2008 vette i realized there was equity in my lease - i made a different dealer buy the 2005 and used the 3000 profit to lower the negotiated price of the 2008 - again i did not use it as a down payment!
I Know it might be better to negotiate as if you are going to buy then get a lease number but in this case i knew there was 2000 lease "cash" available and 1775 dealer cash -- plus there is dealer hold back etc that no matter what is dealer profit. I took the approach of a zero down (except first payment) drive off. The reason is simple - if you put 5000 down and the car is totalled you are screwed! This happened to me in 2001 - i had a 7 month old vette that was totalled - i had put down about 3000 at drive off and got screwed - a lower payment is not worth it!
If you want/need any more info or advice feel free to ask - i think getting good deals is possible for all of us because of the sharing of info!!!
Ron
MSRP: $54,625, Invoice: $52,167
Final Price: $49,463 + $1095 acquisition fee = $50,586
36 month lease with 15K miles/yr, Residual value $27,312.50
Monthly payment $751.81
Zero down, 1st payment was $1500 that includes 1st month's lease payment + tax, title & registration
Through January 11th, Mercedes-Benz Financial's buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2010 ML350 4Matic with 15,000 miles per year are .00035 and 50%, respectively.
I believe that the same numbers are available for 39 month leases as well.
15,000 miles per year is the highest mileage allowance that MB publishes residual values for. If you need to drive more than this, you will have to purchase additional miles on a per-mile basis. It is less expensive to do so at lease signing than it is to wait until the scheduled end of your lease and have to pay an excess mileage penalty.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Through January 11th, Mercedes-Benz Financial's buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2010 ML350 4Matic with 15,000 miles per year are .00035 and 50%, respectively.
Car_man
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Thanks for all your replies - I have never really looked into leasing before - one question. is .00035 a good money factor for a lease?
Thanks again for your help!
murphydog,
.00035 is equivalent to .84%!!! That's a great money factor if you ask me!! :shades:
I went to Mercedes of Beverly Hills (Andre) after getting four quotes via email or phone from other dealers.
I got an 2010 ML350 2w Black with Black with P1, running boards and pre-wiring for entertainment MSRP of $51,325. Gross cap cost of $43,216. 36 month lease with 12k miles at $512/month plus tax. Drive off (included tax, title, license, first month payment) of $2080. They also waived my remaining five payments on my R350 and the disposition cost.
I am really enjoying it so far!
Good luck everyone, hope this helps someone.