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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    As someone who is just an observer to this particular forum I am curious to know what these vibrations feel like. Could any of you either characterize them as high intensity, like driving over rumble strips on the shoulder of an expressway, or are they more like a shake? Like those that feel it in the steering wheel for instance. If you are holding the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position, is your hand moving back and forth rapidly? Are the vibrations in the steering wheel of lower intensity than those that you would get while driving over rumble strips? Is the vibration there all of the time, or just certain times when you drive? I am just thinking it strange that no one can figure these problems out. High intensity vibrations would be tied to rapidly moving parts (like the driveshaft, halfshafts etc.). Lower intensity vibrations would be tied to parts moving slower, like an out of balance wheel. Vibrations that are there worse on some days than others at the same speeds would be tied to changing conditions like wind speed or direction of travel in relation to which way the wind is blowing. These new trucks with ultra ridged frames must transfer every vibration the thing puts out, which I am sure is giving Ford, and its customers a fair share of headaches. Another thing that comes to mind is the trucks new front suspension. Double-wishbone suspensions may transfer to much of the road up into the cab. I remember with the previous Honda Accords we used to drive that they had a lot of road feel, but in a good way. Maybe this setup isn't good for a pickup? However, even if the suspension was the culprit, it seems like a softer rubber tire would solve the problem.

    Sorry to hear about the problems people are having. Beautiful trucks IMHO.
  • twocartwocar Member Posts: 95
    :) I went to the Titan probs and solutions and they have probs too. I guess all of them do, but I find the Ford what I like and not so much the lemon I'm hearing. Sorry for all the problems you folks are having. I do believe when I had my tires rotated Saturday that they put the psi to spec 35 (I believe) and I did notice a tad more feel from the steering, etc.. Previously they had been around 33 and it felt much better. Just FYI.
  • eldorado2eldorado2 Member Posts: 1
    Wonder if you have had any luck with getting your drivetrain noise resolved? ? Have had similar with my 2004 Supercrew 4x4. Seems about 11,000 Miles, I began to notice an intermittent, but rather loud noise.... presumably coming from somewhere in the drivetrain. It's happened several times...( I would carry a digital voice recorder with me in the hopes of "capturing" the process). Anyway, as in your case, a distinct metal-to-metal clanging would occur at various speeds. No identifiable or common circumstances present as to predict when the trbl would occur. Clanging noise would subside as I slowed the truck down. As vehicle began to slow, loud "clunk" as you so described would occur-- similar to the sound of a downshift just before it disengages. **Anyway, I had it towed to the dealer where it presently sits. They are attempting to diagnose the trbl... say they have another one with the same "illness". Advise if you've had any luck.
  • george20george20 Member Posts: 1
    I am wondering what advice there is on buying a drive train warranty. I am purchasing an f250 7.3 diesel with an atuo tansmission 82,000 miles. For $1800 should I also buy the 24,000 mile drive train warranty? Iv'e heard there are some problems with them??

    Thanks George20
  • butch877butch877 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. I had tires road-force balanced, 4 new tires, new rack and pinion gear, front end alignement, bed dampner (a hunk of metal bolted to the bed underside) removed the bed and repositioned the bed, now Ford is refusing to repair the truck they say it is within design standards. Ford won't return my e-mails. My dealer won't return my calls. I have owned a pick-up for 30 years, I own a 1998 F150 also, it runs better than the 04. I also own a total of 5 Fords at this time, I can say that is about to change. I will looking into dumping my 04, it has 9,000 miles. My salesman said the shaking would go away, and that the tire had flat spots from sitting on the lot. So, I guess they will resort to lying.

    Don't buy this LEMON!!!!!!!!!! :lemon:
  • jej673jej673 Member Posts: 3
    what do you folks get in mpg in the '04 or '05 F150 4x4 crew cabs?
  • bear54bear54 Member Posts: 3
    Hello all. My son bought a 2000 Ford F-150 4x4 with the extended cab about two years ago. Well, Last Sunday he was driving home and felt a shimmy in the steering wheel, kind of like when you hit a bump in the road, but there was no bump. In short order he hear a loud clunk or pop in the front of the truck. About then there was a slight curve in the road and he went to steer into it, the steering wheel was locked up, he could not get it to turn at all. He went to apply the brakes and they were soft and then went all the way to the floorboard. Being unable to control the truck, he smashed into some mailboxes and a light pole plus a brick embankment to stop him. The driver in front of him saw him struggling and heard the loud clunk noise from the truck. The front passenger side wheel assembly totally came off of the truck and the truck suspension landed in the center of the wheel. The firemen and others at the scene said they had never seen anything like that before. I have been reading about problems with the ball joints on these trucks and others with problems that effect the steering. Does anyone here have some more information on this? Has it happened to any of you? The Ford Motor Company has not responded to my inquiries to them. This accident nearly took my sons life and if his wife had been with him it would have injured her badly if not taken her life. Any help you all can give me on this issue will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  • twocartwocar Member Posts: 95
    Although mines a heavier beast, my '04 Supercrew 4x4 Lariat gets around 17-18 around town and high 18's to 21 on the highway (depending on what part of the country I'm in). i.e. - south of NC - high 20's/north of NC high 18's highway. The only mod I've made is a K&N filter. (towing brings numbers down to 14's - 15 :shades: 's)
  • cangel65cangel65 Member Posts: 1
    Wow! I've just started with the exact same problem you describe with my 04 F-150 Supercrew. It started 1 week ago and I also thought it might be tempature dependant b ut now it can start 5 mins. after or 15 and is on and off but there is always a slight vibration but it can go from hardly noticable to near violent for no apparent reason.

    However I assumed that this must be a tire related problem or bad wheel balance.
  • iowahawkiowahawk Member Posts: 4
    A week ago, mine went hyper, engaging "whatever it is" each time after I stopped, and disengaging in a more pronounced way each time I slowed to less than 5 mph. It happened without my foot on the brake, and it happened when I slipped the transmission into neutral. The dealer was too busy when I stopped that day, and I haven't been back. And, get this, it hasn't occured in the 7 days since....!!? However, I suspect that somehow the low side of FWD was kicking in and then out because I don't get that to work now when I switch the knob to low FWD---no light on the dash, no front tires turning (I tried this in a muddy spot---high side still works, lights and all). I am hoping it didn't ruin something, and also hoping that the dealer will recognize it and get it fixed under warranty. Judging from the many posts here, this may be wishful thinking.....?
  • clashclash Member Posts: 1
    Just had Sears install Monroe Reflex Shocks on my F350 Diesel 4x4. They are running a special until the end of the month, free installation and a $20 mail-in rebate offer to boot. Slightly higher price than other like (OEM) shocks, but no one can compare to Sears "life-time" warranty. And now with free installation, can't beat the deal anywhere. My Lariat pickup is back in the woods eating up terrain. Cheers! :P
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    He may have had a ball joint come apart. When the wheel fell off the brake hose snapped causing the loss of brakes.

    Who knows? A bad ball joint usually gives some warning though.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    I agree. I find it hard to believe that the ball joint would have failed so suddenly, but it is possible.

    I cannot really help though as I have not heard of any such event or problem elsewhere. Did you do a search on the forum to see if perhaps someone else reported a similar incident? Maybe use "F150 ball joint failure" or something along those lines to start you off....?

    Good luck & glad to hear that your son made it through; events like that really put things into perspective. :surprise:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • bear54bear54 Member Posts: 3
    I think the early warning came out on the interstate highway. He had just come back from a fairly long drive and the steering was acting up for the last ten or so miles. He thought he could make it home and then check things out.
  • bear54bear54 Member Posts: 3
    It certainly does put things in perspective. I did do a search of the forum but I will try using the phrase you suggest. Thanks! :D
  • bill0742bill0742 Member Posts: 2
    I need to know the size and type of tool to remove the fuel drain plug on a 7.3 turbo diesel . I can see it with a mirror and know that it is internal wrenching. I have tried a 1/4 and #7 metric and they are to big. I have tried a 7/32 and a #6 metric and they are too small. Please help. Bill
  • bill0742bill0742 Member Posts: 2
    Disregard the above post. The answer is a 1/4' ratchet.Similiar to a plug in a differential housing. Information obtained through other sources. Bill
  • viclhuffviclhuff Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 F-250 with 60,000 miles is using oil, about a quart of oil is required approx every 200 miles. I do not see smoke, no oil on the driveway. Does anyone have a solution? Oh, and just changed the oil 200 miles ago.
  • cruse65cruse65 Member Posts: 1
    I have an "04 F150 super crew. Just over 5K miles on it, and just started noticing a whinning noise, from the power steering even on the slightest turn of the wheel. The fluid is good,and no leaks. I have listened to other same model trucks, and none make the noise. The dealership said this is normal, and that some trucks are just louder than others. I am no certified Ford mech..but i know the steering shouldnt make that noise unless it is low on fluid, or something is wrong with the pump itself. Any comments???
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Ford power steering pumps can be noisy. My grandparents always buy Ford, and about 25% of them have noisy power steering pumps. They owned three Aerostars ('91, '93, '95), all of which had noisy pumps and none of which ever failed.

    I have to agree with the dealership on this one.... though "normal" is a subjective term. Perhaps "not unusual" would have been more appropriate?

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,759
    Bear,

    I dug around quite a bit after reading about your son's situation, but I did not have any luck finding any similar problems searching the Edmunds forums. There are many, many auto forums out there though, so if this has happened elsewhere I am sure there is information out there about it.

    Maybe the first thing to do is to find out if the ball joint system on the F150 is used on other models as well - then you could expand your search to include all vehicles with the system rather than isolating it to the F150.

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • butch877butch877 Member Posts: 3
    When engaging low gear you have to be stopped and in neutral to engage otherwise it will not engage. This is so that you don't drop it into low 4 wheel at high rates of speed.
  • butch877butch877 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 1998. I was fortunate in that it happened when I exited a highway where i was traveling at 70 mph. I was lucky because my ball joint snapped off after leaving a stop sign. This is an inherent problem with Ford, there are no grease fittings, it is suggested that you lift the rubber boot to check for moisture. If moisture is present it will lead to rust. Rust will act as an abrasive in the ball joint. :sick:
  • iowahawkiowahawk Member Posts: 4
    The problem is---I think---that somehow the low side of 4WD kicked in on its own at a high rate of speed and then disengaged (again on its own, with two distinctive "clunks" each time) when the truck got almost down to a stop. I have never used the low side of 4WD for anything other than a test, and always was stopped before engaging it. Anyway, when the problem was occuring, no 4WD light came on and there was never any 4WD knob out of position on the dash. Now, low 4WD won't engage, there is no light when the knob is turned there, and I think something is wrong in a major way in that area. The "clunks" occured without brake pedal pressure, and also with the transmission lever in neutral. After getting repeated intermittent "activity," this problem has disappeared for ten straight days, and I assume something is just broken, but haven't had time to get back to the dealer.
  • ndaholendahole Member Posts: 1
    U BET! I've owned my 04' F-150 crew 4x2 for over a year now with 22,000 and i've experience the vibration as well as the lemon rotors, which I'm in the process of changing if I can ever get the dam thing off. The front right was literally grined down to about a eighth of an inch thick. Partly my fault for waiting to change 'em but I can't imagine that it would be so cheaply made. So, CAN anyone tell me how to remove the rotor off of this thing. I've removed the caliper but can't figure out whats holding the rotor on with the exception of theat center nut which says "DO NOT RE-USE" and I can't get that to turn for the life of me. HELP!!! the blasted thing is taken up the entire garage. :cry:
  • hutch20hutch20 Member Posts: 4
    I just found this website tonight and I am thrilled to see that the problems we are having with our 2004 F-150 Supercrew are the same! Imagine that! My husband and I just got through going through the"Dispute Settlement Board" for FORD and asking that the truck be replaced and what a joke that was. Our truck had a vibration in the rear since we test drove it with 24 miles on it. The dealership has tried to fix the problem with replacing the drive shaft, putting on two new rotors, placing mounts and this was done at about 8,000 miles. I pestered the dealership so much and then I started getting angry and was told that FORD was having problems with vibrations and they supposedly had a fix for it - right!! Well now with almost 13,000 miles the transmission seems to slip and "Klunk". Here we go again, I send a response letter back to the Dispute Settlement Board asking for their reasoning in not having the truck replaced, I also send the FORD manufacture my 2 cents as well as the owner of that dealership. This is so frustrating and of course the trade in value has decreased. My next step will be an attorney. They cannot and should not get away with this kind of business.
  • rolson1rolson1 Member Posts: 25
    Do you live in a Lemon Law state? If what you are stating is factual, it would appear that might be your best avenue.
  • twocartwocar Member Posts: 95
    "Our truck had a vibration in the rear since we test drove it with 24 miles on it." Why did you buy it then? I am just confused as to why you would buy a vehicle that had a problem at the onset instead of maybe driving another to see if it had the same problem. Of course, I guess we can assume the dealer used the ol' tires were flat-spotted from sitting on the lot or that they would fix the problem. Is your vehicle a 4x4 or 4x2? When was it manufactured? Does it have the column shift? What rear-end? I am trying to figure out if there is ANY common denominator here and no one ever wants to include specifics. I did, at one point, have someone tell me they were hearing a lot of the problems they had been e-mailed with regard to were the SuperCab models due to a driveshaft length problem. I am just trying to pinpoint if it is all drive lines, limited to the SuperCrew, Supercab, or Regular Cab? 4x4's or 4x2's? Column shift or console shifter? Limited slip or not? Adjustable pedals or not? I am not trying to start a war, but I think the more detail we can provide the better we can discern if all models are a problem or just certain ones with certain features/options and therefore help Ford pinpoint the problem so they can determine a fix. Even time of manufacture. (date and year) Maybe the doggone truck is so rigid (9 times stiffer than the previous one, I think) that the shocks/springs don't "give" enough to absorb all road vibration, etc.. I don't know. I'm grabbing at straws and love my truck...I just want to know what the hell is going on with these other trucks. Mine has 15k+ and the more I read the more vibration I think I feel and then I realize it isn't anything more than maybe the pedal vibrating or something at a certain speed.
  • hutch20hutch20 Member Posts: 4
    We bought the truck thinking that Ford could fix it. We thought that the tires just needed to be balanced and they did. After we bought the truck, they took it back into their service department and supposedly balanced the tires. We got in and drove away with the same vibration, so we took the truck to Les Schwab and had them balance them and all four tires were out of balance! But the truck still vibrates. Our truck is is 2004 F-150 4x4 Supercrew with 17" wheels, trailer tow package, column shift automatic 4-spd transmission 5.4 liter engine, 8 cylinders fuel injection, 3.55 ratio limited slip axle, power adjustable pedals. The truck was manufactured in Kansas City. Our truck does have the vibration from 50-65mph is when it really shakes. We have even had the rims checked and tires and had two new rims and tires replaced on it from the Ford Dealer! Ford seems to think that they have fixed this problem and they are far from it! I know that a truck is a truck, but this is ridiculous and is not right. So if you may have any suggestions, we are very open to any answers. We really like the truck, it has lots of leg room and we even rented several Ford trucks just like the one we bought and none of them drove like this is. That is why we chose to buy this Ford truck. Thank you
  • hutch20hutch20 Member Posts: 4
    Yes, we do and that will probably be our next step. It just seems like a big hassle and I think the dealerships just shine you on and think you will go away. Not this one. They are going to have their hands full with me and my husband. Hopefully we can get this done quick and easy! Thank you for your response.
  • tadragtadrag Member Posts: 10
    Mine is a 2004 April build in North Carolina. Supercrew, Lariat, Column shift. 3.73 gears 4 X 4 Limited slip rear axle, trailer tow package. 5.4 Automatic 6.5 ft box. 18 inch B F goodrich tires, 5500 miles. I first noticed the vibration about 500 miles ago. It apparently is related to the parking / emergency brakes. Usually when I experience vibration it is within a short distance from home when I first get up near highway speed. The last time I stepped on the parking brake when in vibration mode and the vibration got much worse and then better when I released it. I pulled over and did a touch test on the brake rotors. the fronts were warm, the right rear hot, and the left rear too hot to touch. I live in a hilly area and use the park brake a lot, . I have an appointment next thursday to have it checked, will post an update.
  • buttsbutts Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 F-150 Supercrew. The front brakes warp and the back rotors if you look at them have groves cut in them. I know 3 other people with the same truck and we are all having these design defect issues as well as the ones below. The bed light of all of ours leaked water into the cab the first hard rain we experienced. Two of us are having transmission issues. My computer would not allow my transmission to switch gears one day. The interior cloth is the worst staining material that I have ever seen. My AC on my 4.6 ltr. does not cool adequately. One of my friends with an F-150's home was burned down 2 weeks ago. Don't worry. It was not his F-150. Rather, it was his Expedition with a faulty cruise control. My 2004 F-150 has been in the shop 4 times in it's first year. Some of the problems are still not fixed. The machanics manager told me that he believes that all owners of this truck should get an extended warranty. Why? These are design flaw issues.
  • twocartwocar Member Posts: 95
    Okay, folks. Bear with me because I am wracking my brain trying to discern if I'm gonna have a problem or not. The only real significant difference I see is that I have the Lariat with the console shifter. The two of you above have the column shift. Nevertheless, I have noticed that even though my parking brake light may be "out" the pedal for it still seems to sometimes be a little bit engaged. Maybe tadrag is on to something, even if it doesn't completely resolve the problem. I was gonna suggest the tires but tadrag has the 18" BF Goodrich tires I have, I presume. Mine was Manufactured in early May '04. Maybe, if nothing else, we are eliminating what ISN'T the problem. :confuse:
  • mikegarzamikegarza Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 f150 XLT ford pickup truck. the door light ajar keeps coming on with that beeping sound thats driving nut, even if I'm parked the dome light comes on the inside and the outside its telling me that a door is open but in reality all doors are close, I'm tired of slamming the hell out of the doors so that light could turn off . Even if I'm driving I take a left turn and the light comes on I take a right turn and that light and beeping sounfd turn on, What is my solution?
  • filippellifilippelli Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1991 F 150 XLT Lariat . The battery started draining overnight or was almost dead depending how early I tried to start the truck. After charging the battery or jumping it would run ok. Then it became progressively worse !! :cry: I removed neg. battery cable and tested for a short. There is one but I can't find it. The battery is fine... the alternator was tested and it's ok. I pulled each fuse and the test light didn't go out with any of them. I have replaced the ignition starter switch on the steering column. There is still a short. Can anyone suggest what to check next and what all could be causing the problem? I have other problems that may or may not be related to this. the power window on passenger side sometimes will not go up or down. Sometimes when turning the radio down it will all of a sudden go louder instead of lower. And the inside light that comes on when you open the door sometimes doesn't. Any help would be deeply appreciated Thanks
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    There's probably crud/sand/etc. that's accumulated in the door switches. Get some WD-40 and liberally soak each door switch. Move the switch it back and forth several times and then soak it some more. Repeat until the problem goes away.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    I'm not familiar with a '91, but have questions for you. Did you check all of the circuits in the truck? Most likely there are fuses both under the dash and under the hood. I've gotten fooled into just checking the ones under the dash before.

    Do you have an Ammeter with a couple of clip leads to check current draw? How about if you pull out all the fuses - then start putting them back one at a time. (Just make sure to keep good track of them.) It has to be a fairly significant draw to discharge your battery overnight. A lot more than the clock circuit, computer memory backup, etc. The Ammeter will tell you which circuit has the higher draw.

    Just my $0.02
  • filippellifilippelli Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your 2 cents :) I hadn't thought about fuses being under the hood. I had my battery rechecked and found out it's not as Good as I was told so I bought a new one. I don't have a meter but may have to invest in one. Where can I find out What to Test and How to use it to test? Thanks, Olivia
  • redtruck5redtruck5 Member Posts: 1
    2004 Ford F 150
    4 x 4 Supercrew 5.5' Bed
    Lariat - Auto-5.4 V-8 - Console shifter
    18" wheels w/BF Goodrich Long Trail 265/60 R 18
    All on road driving - no towing yet - speeds up to 90mph frequent

    Vibration upon braking starting @ approx 5000 miles - all speeds.

    Dealer service @ 7500 miles - turned front rotors - warranty - no explanation.

    Notice from Ford Corporate Jan 2005 (12000 miles) regarding "uneven, rapid tire wear and vibration..."

    Vibration upon braking starting @ approx 12500 miles - all speeds. Two (2) incidents of violent vibration - (brake related ?) - while driving at highway speeds - was not braking at time of incident. Inspection of front brakes and wheels = RED HOT front rotors AND wheels - how long has brake been dragging ?

    Dealer service @ 15500 miles - replaced front rotors - warranty - technical service advisory.
    Dealer claims ignorance regarding FORD CORP letter, tires and vibration

    Violent vibration while driving at highway speeds 15507 miles - 7 miles after leaving dealer.

    RED HOT front rotors AND wheels - back rotors cool to touch.

    Are tire and brakes issues related ? :confuse:

    Thanks for listening.
  • twocartwocar Member Posts: 95
    That sounds just like the specs on my truck. Haven't noticed a vibration problem. Wonder if there is an adjustment askew on your truck. I do know that Ford usually tries to use softer pads to alleviate a problem as all Fords I have ever owned tend to have excessive brake dust at the front tires. This is confirmed upon rotation and the cleaner looking wheels having black dust all over them after a while. Wonder if they were bs'ing me when I took mine in for a rotation and brake check? Said all was well. Tread wear was good, etc..
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Classic symptoms of vacuum/pressure problem. Have the front brake hoses changed as soon as possible.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • timmy4timmy4 Member Posts: 1
    NEED HELP WITH MY 1983 FORD F-150 KING CAB. IT WANTS TO START BUT IT WILL NOT TURN OVER. I HAVE CHECKED FOR MANY DIFFERENT PROBLEMS AND CANT FIND WHYU IT DOES NOT WORK. DID THE STARTER,COIL,CILINOID I AM LOST. HELP
  • volksvolks Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 f150 super crew lariat 5.4 auto 4wd 3.73's every option. I have experienced a violent shudder/shaking in the truck which occurs at 40-50 mph , comes out of nowhere , almost feels as if I have a flat tire. I have to pull over , turn off the truck , wait a minute , take off again and it is gone. This may not present itself again for 500-1000 miles. The entire vehicle shakes so badly it feels as if the vehicle is going to come apart. This started at about 5000 miles , I have taken it to the dealer , drove the vehicle with their service man , of course we couldn't duplicate the problem. When this occurs I have tried the following : turning the OD off , putting the trans in neutral , shutting the engine off , nothing seems to make a change. A complete stop , engine shutdown and waiting a couple minutes seems to get rid of the problem , and it may not happen again for many miles.I have rotated the tires , torqued the lugnuts to spec , tires aired properly , etc. This is driving me nuts. After sifting thru similar posts , I see I am not alone. Has anyone else with this condition had any luck in resolving this problem ? My dealer has always been very helpful in the past , and they can't figure it out either. I currently have 6000 miles on the truck , do not tow or take it offroad either. HELP !!!!!!!!!!!
    Thank-you for any help in this matter !!!!
  • tyresmokertyresmoker Member Posts: 266
    I cannot believe that Ford is blind to this problem..There are far too many posts on this board for it to be an "isolated problem". What are the dealers saying? Is there a fix for the problem? Has anyone had it resolved? It seems to just be the Supercrew that has the shake? Has anyone experienced this with an '05?
  • a1585va1585v Member Posts: 2
    I have the same truck, and have the exact same problem.
    Replaced the drive shaft and problem resolve. Still get minor vibration but probably related to something else.
  • sbaptsbapt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford F250 Diesel, it's always been a good truck and given me good mileage, however over the last 6 months my mileage has went crazy.I am not sure how much I am getting per gallon but know that it is less than half of what I was...I make some regular trips from Indy to Maine...and I find myself fueling up 3 extra times...any suggestions?
  • uboatuboat Member Posts: 1
    I Own a '90 F-150 XLT with 140k and had a similar problem 6 mos. ago. I knew I had a drain on the battery somewhere. I finally found that one of the two fuel pump relays was shorting out and replaced the bad one. They are located under the hood on the driver's side. You should hear them activate just after the ignition key is turned to the 'on' position. I have two gas tanks and that is the reason for two relay switches. The cost to fix was not bad. The problem was finding it. The relay was corroded and the contacts were "melting " together. I hope this helps
  • larrybullardlarrybullard Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Ford F-150 Super Crew with a vibration. I took it back into the dealer at 4000 miles and they rebalanced the tires. The vibration was still there. I put up with it until 29,000 miles because it was not too bad then it started to get worse. I took it in and they said the tires needed to be rotated and balanced again. After that it was much worse. I immediately took it back and they put 4 new tires on it telling me that the tires were bad. The vibration was still there. I then heard a clicking noise and found that if you put the truck in park on level ground and rock it back and forth that where the third member housing and drive shaft join together will move up and down about 2 to 3 inches. The whole axle is loose. I am to take it in Monday and have that looked at. The service manager today watched it while I rocked the truck and his only comment was “I have never seen a rear axle do that”. My concern is not just them tighten the axle back down but how much damage has been done to the pinion gears and the axle bearings? Will report more on Monday.
  • hutch20hutch20 Member Posts: 4
    We know just how you feel!! I have a 2004 F-150 Supercrew 4x4 that has had a problem with vibrations since we test drove it. We should have test driven others, but decided we liked it and they probably just need to balance the tires. Well, after our drive line was replaced and body mounts put on and several times trying to figure out what was going on, the truck seems to ride a little better. This last Monday I took the truck in for a "Klunk" that happens when we come to a stop, then you proceed to hit the gas and there it goes. It almost sounds like the driveline is going to fall out! I finally had a shop forman test drive the truck with me and he said it had to do with the driveline, so parts are on order. :sick: He also told me that FORD puts on the cheapest tires and his friend had bought new tires and rims and said it ran much better. Maybe FORD should foot the bill for some good tires!! Anyway, the shop forman asked if I would like to test drive a 2005 of the same model and that thing was like driving a washing machine. :lemon: That truck shook and vibrated so much it wasn't even funny. Compared to our 2004, our truck rides like a caddy... It is very frustrating that us Customers who pay a great deal on money for a vehicle are getting the run around! Needless to say, we are not very happy with our FORD Dealership. I hope this helps you. :confuse:
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Member Posts: 833
    i'm almost embarassed to post my gripe here after reading on and on and on about the vibration problem, but what the heck I'll add my 2 cents.

    I go into change my oil with my $19.95 coupon from the ford dealer that sold me my '04 F150. When I come back 3 hours later (they never called) the bill is $28.95. They said the drain plug needed replacing - said it was getting "worn out"

    hmmm, I said, that must be covered by warranty cause I've only changed the oil here at the dealer. Then he looks at his paper work and says "oh, my mistake, we needed to add more oil. hmmmm, the coupon was for my truck ya know?

    Just then i remember they stapled a free oil change to my last paper work since it took three days to lathe my warpped rotors and change the oil (which cost $63).

    All this and they have the nerve to recommend you come back in 3,000 miles and do it all over again?!

    Never will I return to the dealer unless I need warranty work -
    It's a total tip off when a guy in a shirt and tie greets you for an oil change.
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