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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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    95clubwagon95clubwagon Member Posts: 4
    My '95 Club Wagon with a 302 V-8 has an coolant leak.I am having a hard time detecting the source of the leak. I replaced the water pump about 40,000 miles ago; and have 155,000 miles on it now. The weap hole on the water pump shows no sign of leakage. All of the hoses look good. Any suggestions?
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Leaking head gasket pressurizing the cooling system and causing coolant loss via the pressure cap?
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    tadragtadrag Member Posts: 10
    Get underneath and check below the back of the LH head (driver side). Mine had a slow leak that went undetected for a long time because the fluid hits a hot spot and evaporates before it hits the ground. I think the gasket between the intake manifold and the head is the problem one.

    Tom D
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    albertsonalbertson Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a 1997 F250 Powerstroke truck. All was fine until I removed the right battery. It was out for about four days. I did nothing with the truck during this time. When I put the battery back in three or four relays (left side of dash on top and under the hood in front of the brake cylinder)will click away for roughly ten seconds then stop. This will always start again when I try to start it. Turning the key to the on position lights what look like the normal dash lights but nothing happens when I turn it to the crank position. I did find that the battery that was left connected in the truck was down to about five volts. After charging there was no difference. When I connect the first battery (when both are unhooked)it arcs like the lights or something are on. Everything is off. Sorry so long winded. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Ed
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    150ford150ford Member Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem for the first time back in the first week of Nov. Took it to the dealership and all they could find was mosture in the coil park on # 4 cylinder. I have never had a problem with this until then. I have a 2000 f150 lariat 5.4L with 120,000 miles on it and I live in Fl with all that moisture and the age and miles on the motor you would think I would have had more trouble.
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    jteleskyjtelesky Member Posts: 13
    Winchel: Thanks so much for the information pertinent to the dribble and vibration problems of my new F-150 pickup. I will inform my dealer as to this possible solution... thanks to you. Could you tell me what SEMA is?
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    tadragtadrag Member Posts: 10
    I had the same problem with my '98 4.6. I was changing plugs at 55,000 miles and found moisture in the number 4 RH plug socket (passanger side). The truck had been running OK, but had a check engine light and the code said bad wires and/or plugs. I talked to the local Ford shop and they said the moisture problem was common the 5.4's and less common on the 4.6, and that there was a fix related to the heater hose plumbing etc that hangs on the firewall above that bank of the engine. I never could locate a leak and shortly later traded it in.

    Hope this helps.

    TOm
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    semacsemac Member Posts: 3
    The 150 miles per tank is using the full tank 19.5 gallons which means I am getting 7.6 miles per gallon.

    Is this normal?
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    blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    SEMA = Specialty Equipment Manufacturers Association.

    This is the trade association for the guys that separate the do it yourself car enthusiasts from their wallets (and often good taste).
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    mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    ........I am getting 7.6 miles per gallon. Is this normal?

    Certainly isn't! Poor fuel consumption can be caused by, or contributed to, by anything from a blocked air filter to binding brakes (or a hundred things in between, including an enthusiastic right foot!).
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    wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Ed,
    Sounds like one or both of your batteries is shot. If remaining battery is only reading 5V it's most likely been too severely discharged and won't recover. The glow plugs take a lot of juice, which is why the PSD has two batteries. The arcing you see when you hook up the second battery is that battery trying to re-charge the first one. Unfortunately, if the second battery has been hooked up for some time now, it's probably been discharged deeply as well. It could now be shot as well.

    The chattering relays that you hear when attempt to start the truck is a sign that the voltage in the system is too low to allow the relays to actuate properly. The coil in the relay tries to move the contactors, but the voltage is too low so it can't move all the way, but it keeps trying and gives you the clacking noise. Eventually the voltage falls lower and the relays don't move at all.

    Big question is what killed the batteries in the first place? Is there some problem with your charging system, i.e. altenator, voltage regulator, etc.? You may want to have it checked out, or you could end up killing the new batteries too. At places like Sears, the charging system checkout is either free or discounted, if you buy the batteries there or have them do repair work.
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    albertsonalbertson Member Posts: 3
    Wpalkowski, Thanks for the info.. It still does it with both batteries fully charged. As soon as I connect the first battery the relays start in. This is with the key out of the ignition. Does that still sound like a weak battery? I don't know if the batteries are good other than they did fine until I took the one out. After the charge they read >13.0 volts. Also can you suggest a good manual that has the wiring diagrams etc.. Thanks again, I appreciate all your time. Take care, Ed
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    wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Disconnect batteries. Do voltage readings stay at 13V, after 4-6 hours (at room temperature)? If after that time, voltage reading goes below ~12.5V, then battery isn't holding a full charge. Still better to have them tested under load, or to measure specific gravity of battery with a hydrometer (if it's not a sealed battery).

    The Haynes Manual at Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. has basic wiring diagrams. But they're not always specific to your model/engine/year truck. Helm sells dealer's shop and electrical manuals (www.helminc.com). They're the best but, quite pricey! (Though they're worth it first time you save yourself a big repair bill.) Try searching E-Bay for the Helm manuals. Sometimes you can pick them up on CD-ROM for a heck of a lot cheaper.
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    albertsonalbertson Member Posts: 3
    Wpalkowski, Thanks again for the additional information. I took both batteries to Advanced Auto to have them tested and one is bad. I haven't had a chance to try it yet with the new one, but when I do I will let you know. Take care, Ed
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    blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Simply put: do all of the current style F150s have the vibration problem or just some? Is it restricted to any one drive train/chassis combo?

    In thinking about the problem I'm wondering if the new rigid boxed chassis coupled with the much more direct rack and pinion steering isn't the problem? No one has suggested this and it might be an idea.
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    fpd7fpd7 Member Posts: 1
    My 1997 Honda Accord had the exact same symptoms. After several times stopping like this (we were on vacation) the ABS light came on, and it was deactivated automatically.
    The shop reported one ABS Sensor was bad, and it was sensing that one wheel was locking up, so it was releasing the brakes as it should when there is a skid.

    Replacing the sensor fixed the problem.
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    jallanjallan Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. I will look into the sensors. The interseting thing is that the ABS system worked fine until I replaced the left front caliper and front rotors. Immediately after the ABS malfunction occurred. My local garage could find no failure callout with his code reader so he recommended i see a Ford dealer. I guess that is what I must do as I am not sure how to test each sensor. Dirt may be the cause or possibly leaking brake fluid when I was replacing the caliper although i don't belive it got on the sensor. I thought I read somewhere some cars or trucks had ABS problems due to dirt affecting the sensors.

    An unrelated point of interest is that last week i lost my braking due to rusted out brake lines. one would think that the materials used for brake lines should last longer than 8 years.

    Thanks for you reply.
    J Allan
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    lanny1lanny1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 ford diesel. the service engine soon lights
    comes on. when the light is on the transmission run rought.
    the computer shows a map sensor . I have changed the mat sensor. this did not solve problem. any suggestions.
    thanks lanny
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    tedbebe4tedbebe4 Member Posts: 3
    CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET MORE BOOST BY SENDING A FAKE SIGNAL TO THE WASTE GATE ? I HAVE A 1999 F-350 7.3 POWERSTROKE
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    tedbebe4tedbebe4 Member Posts: 3
    CLEAR THE COMPUTER THEN START ALL OVER. WHEN IT HAPPENS AGAIN SCAN THE COMPUTER AND SEE WHAT COME'S UP. SOME OF THE 99'S HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE OVERDRIVE IN THE TRAN'S
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    mmossmmoss Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My F-150 hadn't been run for several weeks. Went out to start it, started right up. Let it run for a minute or two, then went to put into reverse and it died. Put it back into Park, turned the key. "Thunk." "Thunk." The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right. Cannot move it into Neutral or any other gear. The weather has been in the mid-20's at night and low 30's during the day, and there is moisture under the hood (and in the cab). Could there be some problem with moisture or is this purely electrical--starter, solenoid, etc.???? Anyone have this happen?
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    dashmandashman Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the same problem(s). Any solutions?
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    jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    "The heating/cooling and radio work just fine, so the battery is all right."
    Not necessarily....accessories draw a very low current so it is normal for accessories to work and the battery be too low to crank the vehicle. Try charging the battery or jump-start vehicle and have battery load tested.
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    dansf350dansf350 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 F-350 crew cab. I have a power stroke diesel. I am having a problem with my selecter switch. It seems to be stuck on defrost. When I move the selector switch nothing happens. I thought this system operates on vacuum. My cruise control works. Please help.
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    lewdrilllewdrill Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 F250 4x4 Supercab,company truck, with manual locking hubs & coil springs. I have the same problem you have. Took it to the dealer, they changed the front stabilizer. Still had the problem. Took it back, they said I did not have enough air in the tires. I had 50# in each tire. Ford specs call for 75# in the front & 80# in the back. This makes the truck ride like a tank, but it did fix the problem. This truck is dangerous because if the air pressure ever gets low (such as 50#(& the tires don't look low at that pressure)), the pickup front end will shake violently & uncontrollably ( also veers to the left when this happens). I have been lucky so far as to not hit any on coming trafic. These pickups should be recalled. They are an accident waiting to happen. My company plans on replacing this truck in the next few days.
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    wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Defrost is the default setting if there's little or no vacuum available. Check the vacuum pump and vacuum lines, especially where they come through the firewall - they tend to get brittle and crack at that point and it's hard to see it. If you have 4x4 shift on the fly, odds are that isn't working either.
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    pharveypharvey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 f350 lost the gage cluster, power windows, 4x4,interior lights,power mirrors. Checked for corrosion found none, checked for bad grounds haven't found anything yet, Replaced the GEM didn't fix a thing.
    Did you ever figure out the problem? Would appreciate any
    help anyone could offer.
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    sprice2sprice2 Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 f150 flare side 4x4 5.0 V-8 shakes at 1500 rpm's under load. After I pass the 1500 rpm it smooths out. I can run at the same speed on flat payment not under load and it rides smooth so I know it is not the tires. The tires are brand new and it did it before I put tires on it.
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    dansf350dansf350 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you
    I will check it out.
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    seewoseewo Member Posts: 2
    Have you guys found out what the problem is. I Dropped my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 4 x 4 off at the Dealer today for the same thing exactly. It happened to me twice for just a few seconds and then this morning on the way to the dealer it started again, I was in traffic and couldn't get off the road. It lasted about three blocks. As I slowed from about 50 mph to 10 it quit with a loud clunk. (10,040 miles)
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    seewoseewo Member Posts: 2
    :sick: Have you guys found out what the problem is. I Dropped my 2005 F150 SuperCrew 4 x 4 off at the Dealer today for the same thing exactly. It happened to me twice for just a few seconds and then this morning on the way to the dealer it started again, I was in traffic and couldn't get off the road. It lasted about three blocks. As I slowed from about 50 mph to 10 it quit with a loud clunk. (10,040 miles)
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    kweeegiekweeegie Member Posts: 1
    I have recently had a similar problem with my 1989 F350 7.3L Diesel. However, my problem may have been self induced. Truck turned over, but would not start. I plugged in the block heater after killing the batteries. I put a 200amp quick boost on batteries to try to boost it. In the process of trying to start engine, I saw smoke coming up from the starter/solenoid. Truck proceded to start fine, but next day on a cold start all I got was a "click" from the solenoid. So I think I may have fried either a wire to the solenoid, the solenoid, or the starter itself??? I don't think my problem is the batteries,as I drove the truck for in excess of an hour after starting. Anybody run into this similar problem and can elaborate a bit??? Thanks, Bud...
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    jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    If you are lucky the problem may just be dirty/corroded connections at the solenoid but not really likely. I think the problem may be that you let the smoke out....I learned a long time ago that electrical devices must contain smoke in order to function. Once you let the smoke out they no longer work.... :confuse:
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    bob5875bob5875 Member Posts: 1
    have no trailer tail lights,factory 4pin and 7pin have no power, all fuses are good. Owners manual is no help.
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    shadow65shadow65 Member Posts: 1
    In reply to your problem with your EGR CODE.I had the same problem with my 97 f-150.Its not your EGR valve,to fix your problem pull off your throble body that your EGR bolts to,flip it over there is two holes about 1/4in around that is built up with carbon.Clean out those two holes and bolt back down the throble body and your code and problem will go away.
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    johnbrownejohnbrowne Member Posts: 1
    I'm having a similar problem right now . . . did you figure out what the problem is? F350 powerstroke diesel . .
    thanks
    John :(
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    ronnie3ronnie3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F250 superduty.It wiil start to warm up to runnig temp and then cool down,and then overheat. What could cause this problem . I have changed the stat and flushed the radiator and still has not helped.
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    f250guyf250guy Member Posts: 9
    Thank you for your time, mac24! I really appreciate it :D
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    wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    What engine do you have?

    Did you just drain radiator or did you "power flush" the whole cooling system. Could still have crud in the engine.

    Also, how's the water pump?
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    jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Just because you changed the thermostat is no guarantee that it isn't defective. It is fairly common to get a defective one out of the box or one that only lasts a few months. I just changed one 4 months ago and now it is stuck in open position... :cry:
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    jbmeehjbmeeh Member Posts: 1
    I have a used 1989 ford f250 truck with over 200K miles. I have 4wd with manual lock in on the front wheels. Lately, I have been leaving the manual lock on even though the truck is only in 2wd. Recently, I noticed that after I start it up that the wheels lock up if I hit the brakes. I only notice it on start up since I haven't had it happen when the truck is on the road. Can it be brakes or transmission causing the lock up? I'm not even sure if it is front or rear wheels locking up.
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    jerry57jerry57 Member Posts: 7
    i have a 1995 f-150 it has the e4od in it what other trans will fit
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    efonefiftyefonefifty Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 f-150 and I've recently noticed that it seems a little "jumpy" when I step on the accelerator. I notice it most when getting on the interstate. When I get up to speed and ease off the accelerator the truck jerks a little. Kind of like in a stick shift going downhill. Could this be a problem with fuel injectors? :sick:
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    hossupjhossupj Member Posts: 1
    When I first accelerate there seems to be slipping of the rear axle. When taken in for service the dealership said this is normal and it was the 3.73 Ratio limited slip axle doing its job, he said that if it was doing this it was actually working right. I had a 2004 supercab and never remember it doing this. Does this seem normal. Is anyone else experiencing this problem.
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    best78fordbest78ford Member Posts: 3
    how do i convert my 1978 2wd f150 into a 4wd
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    firstdaddyfirstdaddy Member Posts: 19
    Hi Gang,

    I have a 2000 F-150 XLT 4X4 w/ 5.4L that occasionally will not start. The engine turns over just fine. It is almost like its not getting spark or fuel. I can insert the key and turn it to the run position and hear the fuel pump prime as usual. All the idiot lights look normal too. Although, the Theft light stays on the whole time I'm trying to start it. I can't recall if this light is supposed to be on or not. (I have researched, and believe that Ford electronically prevents theft by cutting the electrical to the coil packs, not by disabling the starter; is this correct?) There are other idiot lights that stay on during cranking. The funny thing is if I wait, it will start later like it should. Any ideas?
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    bubba1984bubba1984 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem. My automatic transmission will not start off in first gear when in drive and the tachometer dosen't work. I have replaced the fuse but I need to know the name of the module on the driver's side of the transmission the the wire plugs into?
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    jerry57jerry57 Member Posts: 7
    i forgot to put size engine it has the 4.9 strait six
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    ncpwtncpwt Member Posts: 1
    I had the exact same problem on my 05. This problem is pretty well documented. The drive shaft is supposed to be able to move front to rear to compensate for suspension travel. The sticking/ slipping feeling is the drive shaft momentarily sticking in place laterally (not rotationally) The splines on the front and rear of the drive shaft need to be cleaned and re-greased. I had mine done about 6000 miles ago and it's still pretty smooth. Let me know if you need more info. -Chris

    p.s. tell your service guy not to burn his lips on the crack-pipe....
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    dreezdreez Member Posts: 1
    I have been having trouble with Problems:

    1: My battery draining in anywhere from one to 4 days between usage. At first I had the battery tested, feeling it was going bad. After it was tested I was told it was fine, but the amps registered from the alternator charging it was at about 75. Took it to the dealer who says both the the alt and battery are fine.

    2: My electronics will suddenly reset themselves on startup. I set the AC in the summer at 68 with the fan at speed level 2 or 3. When I start the truck, the temp will be reset to default and the fan will be on max speed.

    I suspect these two items may be from the same source, but not mechanically savvy on my own.
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