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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • micomarkmicomark Posts: 11
    Update on my previous message: I noticed someone stated that vehicle details would be helpful when you post a particular problem in helping others better relate the issue to their own set of circumstances. Good idea. Here are my details in respect to the vibration problem on the apparently 2004 and 2005 F-150 platform.
    Amazing this significant problem carried over from 2004 to 2005. This platform was apparently released premature and is a true engineering failure for Ford. My truck is a 2005 F-150 Lariat, 4X4, 5.4L, Limited Slip, Super Cab, 3.73 differential, column shift automatic. It has both a substantial vibration problem and substantial drive train slack problem. It also sounds like the gears in the differential do not mesh well on acceleration as there is a slip then a crunching type sound. See Message #1130 for a more complete analysis of my problems with vibration and drive train noise. I saw where someone still had vibration problem with 3.55 rear axle. I am wondering if the 3.33 differential that used to be in 4x4 and now only 4X2 is experiencing these problems as well? I know my 2002 F-150 4X4 333 gears was rock solid compared to this 2005 POS.
  • ltz2003ltz2003 Posts: 24
    I am sorry to read about all the problems people are having. I have been gm all my life .Now i have my first ford , its F-150 FX-4 SC. This is the best new tk we have ever owned . Lots better than my last two gm trucks. 13000 miles not one thing wrong towing or otherwise. I would buy one agan in a heart beat. My brother liked it so much he went and got one. He loves his to . Good luck i know there is a lot of problems with some trucks . BUT THERE NOT ALL BAD
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Next thing to check would be any type of electrical drain. Even though lights and the stereo will come on, you still may not have enough juice to get the diesel fired up. If a jump gets it going, it was a discharged battery, and you should have them checked anyway.

    If you can completely rule out batteries/alternator/starter, then you may have a fuel delivery issue. This could be a dead fuel pump or injectors. (Hopefully, no one siphoned your tank dry in this day of high fuel prices.) You could also have an issue in the glow plug circuitry (short, etc.), although the engine should fire without them, just with great difficulty.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • mjkrammjkram Posts: 9
    I have a 2004 Lariat Supercrew 4x2, with which I've had my share of vibration and dealer problems. A new driveshaft and a shim in the carrier bearing seem to have solved about 95% of the trouble. My question is why some otherwise identical trucks have a 1 piece driveshaft, and others, like mine, a 2 piece assembly? My manufacture date is 5/04. The 4x2 Supercrew I looked under, with a 1 piece driveshaft, was manufactured 1/04. The owner of the 1 piece truck said he never had any vibration issues. I've also looked under two 4x4's, both of which had 1 piece units. Does the vibration occur more in one type than the other?
  • wildcatswildcats Posts: 3
    I agree. I bought a new F250 diesel in December after having owned an Expedition for 6 yrs. Nothing on the Expedition was required other than scheduled maintainance. The new diesel is awesome and one heck of a tow vehicle!

    I recently went on a trip in a friend's Honda Pilot for 200 miles and back. Lots of road noise, the seat cushions are short with not much leg room and the ride was nothing to brag about. I don't see why people even buy them. Give me my F250 anyday!
  • thedave1thedave1 Posts: 1
    I have two questions. I just bought a used 2002 F-150 extended cab, longbed, 58,000 miles, with the V-8 two days ago. It appears to have been kept very well by the previous owner.

    First, the towing question. It has a towing package installed rated at 5,000 lbs. max. I am going to be towing a 1999 Mazda 626, front wheel drive, manual transmission, from California to Iowa in a couple months. My question has to do mainly with which type of trailer I should rent. I know a tow dolly can work, but am wondering if a full-size trailer would be more stable and easier to tow for that long of a trip?

    Second, the rough engine question. Like I said, I bought it two days ago. Ran great. Drove the you-know-what out of it and no signs of trouble at all. Later that evening I took it in to have the factory cassette replaced with a new CD player. Didn't drive it yesterday, Today, it starts running rough and idling rough, though not always. I read in the owner's manual that when the battery is disconnected that the computer has to "relearn" idle and fuel settings. It even has a sequnece for helping it do this, and I seriously doubt it has been done properly. Since I'm sure they disconnected the battery when they installed the CD player, and it seemed fine before that, is this most likely my problem? Or, should I be searching for something else? Thanks.
  • greasygreasy Posts: 2
    :mad: my friends flashers are not working .checked lights then fuses and tried to find the flasher. looked under the glove box, by the steering and on the fuse block .im looking for the round can (flasher)and have not found it .nothing in the om tells me where it is .so where did they put it and what dose it look like :confuse:
  • ericb1ericb1 Posts: 2
    I am curious why there is no grease fiting on the front U joint (right behind C6 tranny) on a 76 E350 motor home? 351 W motor.

    How will I know when the U joint/driveshafts need replacement? Thank you, EricB
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It's hard to answer that without sounding like I'm trying to be smart. ;)

    So.............if there's no grease fitting on a 'u' joint, any 'u' joint, it's because it's sealed for life. Who's life?........the life of the joint of course. Could be ten minutes, could be ten years.

    How will you know when it needs replacement? When there's any detectable movement, which will mean it's reached the end of its life.

    See, I said I'd sound like a smart .............. oh well! :blush:

    Sorry ericb, but it's the truth.
  • volksvolks Posts: 3
    Coming home from a short trip Sunday , the 04 f150 screw 5.4 4wd lariat model went into hyper shake ...... again. this time I was really close to the house , so I kept on going , shake and all. Having a really complete garage setup , I thought I would take a look myself this time , instead of another dealer trip.
    As soon as I parked the truck , I smelled burned friction material coming from the driver side rear . I jacked up the rear end , removed the tires both sides , removed the calipers / they came right off, nothing frozen etc , that led me to believe it had to be the parking brakes hanging.So here is what I found after removing the rear brake rotors {which wasn't easy/they should slide right off} The parking brake cam actuators were rusted together , not allowing the parking brake shoes to fully retract when the pedal is released. I removed the brake sets , cleaned and wire wheeled down the actuator assy's , lubed them up , lubed the adjusters and brake shoe mounting points {everything bone dry from the factory} and reinstalled and properly adjusted the parking brakes. It all works like it was supposed to now . This may be more than the average owner wants to tackle , Honestly I shouldn't have had to do this either , but the dealer never found this , and I am getting tired of taking the truck in everytime it shakes. I don't know if this will cure the problem , But I hope this may help someone else with similiar shake issues and maybe point Ford in the right direction !!
  • sjs42464sjs42464 Posts: 1
    i also have that mysterious violent shudder that comes and goes!had it to my dealer 3 far balence tires, change drive shaft and universials, 5/24/05 ford rep comming to check it out.after that me and my lawyer and the lemon law!!!!its a shame when you spend 38000.00 and it can be fix!sam :sick: :( :lemon:
  • Hello all Ford Owners;
    I am glad I found this forum. I have driven a Ford truck since my first 1975 Ford Courier and since gone through 5 F-150's. My '04 F-150 FX4 is the worst F-150 I have ever owned. At 36,000 miles it is at the dealership now for like the 7th time, two of these are to replace the Clutch Packs in the Differential. Key to this message is my truck was the 3rd F-150 in one day with this problem at my local dealer. Service tech spoke with Ford Engineer, they began having these problems since 2000 models. The material was changed so the steel was not hardened appropriately and they use a synthetic lubricant. From what I was told, they have re-designed the material now three times, I am getting a whole new package installed Next Day Aired direct from Ford Motor which is supposed to solve this problem
    Many have mentioned slap and vibration. When the clutch packs go bad, and you turn from a stop the truck feels like you are in 4x4. This is a great indication you have a problem. I also noticed vibration when towing a bobcat dual axle trailer.
    Other problems I have had include; the truck has self-accelerated in wet conditions (there is no mechanical throttle cable, wisdom changed it to a computer); the back seat rattels/rubs against the back window (so much for a quiet truck); it takes over a minute for the temperature control to change from floor or dash heat to defrost or vice versa (A minute into freezing rain and you are in trouble); the brake pedals switch to turn off the cruise control was broken and rattled constantly (very annoying and very hard to identify the source); Finally, what is the material of the back fender? I got a rock in the HUGE gap between the tailgate and the fender and it chipped off the material. It looks like some sort of plastic composite....definitely not steel. :(

    This long time Ford owner is going to seriously consider another brand unless I get some good incentive from Ford to trade for another Ford truck this summer. I don't give up my loyalty easily and am a little embarrassed to do so, but I think the lead engineer for Ford's new truck went for style over substance this time around.
  • Clutch Packs. I suggest you mention this to your dealer and read my last post.
  • newfiefordnewfieford Posts: 2
    i have a 200 f-150 supercab 4x4,w/ the 5.4 l and the problem with your engine with the rough idlol maby the result of a bad ignition coil cause i have after replacing 6 ignition coils over the last 180,000 km, so you might want to try that if you want
  • newfiefordnewfieford Posts: 2
    i am presently looking for somewhere to buy stainless steel exhaust manifold studs to re-mount my manifolds or headers when i get them to my 2000 ford f-150 4x4 supercab w/ the 5.4L engine, so i dont have to wory about them rusting off again, i have a 180,000 on this vehicle and i like it very much and intend to keep it for awhile, so as things break or rust off with age i want to replace it with better stronger parts, oh yeah,and it is rust checked every if anyone knows where i can get these s/s manifold studs i would appreciate a reply. thanks :)
  • damcamdamcam Posts: 1
    I am getting really upset, I have been to the freakin Ford dealership (Alexander) and them mothers, tell me that I did something wrong, nobody else has complained of any Brake/Rotor problems. I asked them the call Big O Tires, and verify my story, all I was told to do it to get Big O to do the rotor job, because they are cheaper than the dealership. I am also trying to find out whether or not I have to replace the composite rotors with composite? Can you :lemon: or anyone help me out. :mad: . :lemon:
  • arkirby3arkirby3 Posts: 1
    OMG! Man! I feel your pain!

    I'm having a problem with my Ford dealer and Ford myself. I've got a braking system that failed to stop my '02 F-150 King Ranch. I had to brake fast for an ambulance, and my truck kept on going.. and going ... and going.... I take it to an independent who tells me I need the dealership to diagnose further. The dealership says all my parts and electronics are within Ford specs. Everything was "green lighted" even after the little braking incident, but the service manager still witnessed the braking problem. Now Ford corp. says.. just replace the rotors and the pads with OEM to the tune of becoming a $685 safety experiment. I don't know what I'm gonna do about this problem yet. I've filed a complaint with the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration.

    Good Luck and God Speed from Florida!
  • btenvy1btenvy1 Posts: 4
    I had a set of these on my old 2000 Chevy Silverado. Please, if you have these tires check them out. The left rear lost tread and tire pressure about 6 months ago and cause the truck to roll 40 mph. Total loss on the truck, caused wife and kid injuries. Look especially for cracking inside the tread. Goodyear has claimed they are not responsible for the tire. The report stated something was hit with the tire and caused the separation. Believe me, this is not the case. The tires were 305/75/R16.

  • greasygreasy Posts: 2
    thats a year 2000 ford 350 still cannot find it
  • teedoffteedoff Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 F-150. I noticed a lot of paint bubbles on the front of the hood so I brought it to the dealer. They said it was their fault due to some problem during painting. Since I was out of warranty they offered to pay half of a approx. $400 repair. They need the truck for a week and won't give a loaner. Rust will be here shortly. Seems to me if they caused the problem. they should pay for it. I guess ford paint jobs are only good for 3 years. Nowadays it seems all other models hardly ever rust out. I'll be buying a new truck next year approx. $35k. It will not be a ford. Real good business sense on their part.
    Thanks for listening
  • farm1farm1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew with a hard tonneau cover that hinges on the front panel of the bed (aftermarket, but in place when I bought it from the Ford dealership).
    The front wall of the bed has come loose in the upper left corner, and moves back and forth allowing the cover to hit the window molding. The Ford dealership has said it is because of the weight of the tonneau cover. I am out of warranty, and they won't cover anyway since the cover was aftermarket.
    Any comments, or ideas how to fix this and keep it from reoccuring?
  • alkanxalkanx Posts: 69
    Hi, anyone used wider tires on factory rims, mine are 18 inches, tires are 265/60/18, was planning for 285/60/18 but was not sure if someone has tried it...

    04 Spcrw 4X2 5.4L (Lariat)
  • path2path2 Posts: 3
    To kcram and tallyho. I have the same problem with my 2001 F250 4X4 7.3 Diesel. It is difficult to start in the cold weather. If I plug it in overnight it is OK. When the temp is at or below 32 deg. it acts like it if flooded. If I leave it sit for a while (20 mts) it did start and blew smoke untill it setteled down and then ran fine.The dealer cheked the batteries and said they were ok then said the starter was bad. With a new starter and a $475.00 bill the problem happened again two or three times. Needless to say I aint going back there again.. The weather warmed up and I have not had the problem since I expect I will have the problem again come cold weather time.
    Have you solved your problem yet? What was the temperature when you had your problem trying to start your Diesel.? Would Ford Motor Company be smart enough to answer this question.?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Path, if your batteries are ok, starter is new, and alternator has the right juice, you may have a glow plug problem (and the dealer should have checked for this). Trying to start a diesel with just one bad glow plug will be like trying to start a gasoline engine with one bad spark plug.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • newfguynewfguy Posts: 1
    hey everyone im new in here.....i just bought a 1991 f-150 with a 5.8 engine..and i was wondering what the common problems were on these trucks...i am having the valve cover gaskets replaced tomorrow along with the thermostat housing gasket..while the valve covers are off are there any other things i should do??clean the throttle body or intake??are there any common egr problems??
    i have read a little bit about somee screen on the back side of the block that gets clogged...if anyone knows anything any help will be greatly appreciated...thank you!!!!!
  • jkwjkw Posts: 3
    :lemon: ?
    I have a New 2005 F150 Lariat with less than 1000 miles & garage keep.
    I recently found 7 Paint Blemishes, some as big as 7”x14" that can only be seen in certain lighting conditions.
    My Ford dealership has acknowledged that there is a problem and is willing to paint the effected areas under Warranty.
    Questions: Should I agree to have the work done?
    Should I insist they paint the whole Truck?
    Since the Dealership say this was a Factory created condition, Should I try to get Ford to replace my truck?
    Has anyone had a similar problem?, How was it resolved?
    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks in Advance, Jkw
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    At 1000 miles, the truck is new enough that a full repaint is not really necessary, but do insist on repaint of the entire body panel where a blemish exists... for example, if there is a 4-inch blemish on the bed side, have the entire bed side repainted.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • to the diesels between glow plugs or the relay and 1 other thing change the oil every 3,000 miles with good oil.
    the paint problem hey if a body shop fixes the spots or how ever be happy no they will not replace the truck due to paint and will prob just fix spots or a whole body panel(repainted).
    to any and all with vibration type concerns stop complaining on here, be polite and give the dealer all possible info, ford and the dealer will fix it stop crying here about lemon law .
    it is no wander toyota is taking over as the biggest seller in usa .their parts fo their cars cost more than the same thing on a ford ,so go by a toyota and i'll keep driving a real truck that drives like a TRUCK with all the shakes and vibrations
    peace out gbnf
  • jkwjkw Posts: 3
    Not looking forward to it,
  • 78bronco78bronco Posts: 1
    I don't drive a diesel but am a mechanic on diesels for the Air Force. Almost all of the ones that we have are very cold natured and hard to start in the winter. Plugging them in works because you are warming them up prior to starting them but you pay for that in your electricity. One thing that you may have heard of to do is us a starting agent or equivalent which is acceptable but not the wisest thing to use. They can cause damage over time inside of the engine. Instead you can use a heat gun or hair dryer. By blowing it into the air intake you are preheating the air and making the engine think that it is already warm. You mat have to hold the hair dryer there for a few minutes before it truly warms the air enough though.
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