Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have a 2001 Dodge Durango SLT. For a while now, I've noticed the blower for the air conditioner is not very strong. My wife's Ford Windstar on a setting of 3 out of 4 is faster than mine at full blast. Not much air seems to be coming out of it when at full, and all the other settings seem to be pretty slow too. Anyone run into this? Anyone know what the problem could be?
Please - if anyone has some words of wisdom to help I would appreciate it.
dealership says nothing is wrong with AC, and i can't get it to reproduce when i'm there anyway.
I replaced all 4 wires going to the front O2 sensor, bypassing the factory connections. All connections were completed by the air cleaner box.
If the wires are full of power steering fluid - one must replace all 4 wires.
I look forward to your response.
L
DO NOT CUT THE WIRES ON THE o2. If you have a bosh o2, the "white wire" should be the ground. Match the white wire at the connector to whatever color wire that is on the harness side, cut that wire. Solder a new ground from that wire to a ground. The color on the harness side of my onnector was black with a blue stripe i believe. Check yours to be sure. Good luck
The solution will depend on what's causing the problem. It could be as simple as your radiator cap not holding pressure adequately or your thermostat not functioning properly. Have you checked your radiator coolant level? You may have a leak somewhere in your system.
tidester, host
First time posting here but had a problem hopefully someone can help me with.
Have a 99 Dodge Durango 5.9 4WD that recently has been having these stalling problems i've read about on here.
It will run just fine,but out of the blue it will die on me at different times.sometimes idling,or even sometimes driving it will just quit.but will usually start back up right after.
The check engine light has been on since i've had it,but thats been 1.5 years ago and the vehicle was used.
I tried to fire it up today and it ran just fine idling in the driveway with no problems.the main problems happened last week in the 95-100 Degree weather.
If anyone may know what i should start with on this,i'd appreaciate any info.
Thanks.
always comes back on. Then on sunday we were on our way back from cali
and I jumped a bump a bump nothing seemed to happen -why would it this
is an suv right? Then about an hour later the radio (which is stock)
shut down, then the int lights stopped working, then when we took the
keys out the car still dings. so we checked the fuses and the relays
the int fuse was blown and when we replace it it pops instantly. The
relays are fine except the int relay is making a clicking noise when
you turn the headlights on. So I drove the car to the store and it ran
fine (just no radio or int lights) the next morning when I went to go
to work it wouldn't start!!! so after checking all fuses the starter fuse was also blown! A friend came over and my car is now in a million pieces they have taken the whole inside apart and unplugged everything and it is still blowing the int fuse. Has this happened to anyone? HELP!!!
Thank you so much for any help. This will be the third sensor.
Justin
If you have a new o2 sensor, just cut the ground wire on the harness side of the o2 connector and run a new ground wire. The ground wire is whats at fault. Unless you buy a new "Bypass o2"harness from the dealership, which will have instructions on where to connect the other three wires, I dont recommend cutting all the wires. The dealership bypass for the o2 cost around $66.00. A piece of wire to replace just the ground wire will cost you about $2.00, and you dont have to worry about the other three wires.The ground wire from the p/s switch and o2 share a common ground. Hense the problem. Good luck
I see that the recommendation is to just replace the ground wire for the O2 sensor. If this works, congratulations.
If it doesn't, such as mine, I cut all 4 wires above the factory front O2 harness (vehicle side) and ran all 4 wires in a new harness. The location that they all tie into is by the air cleaner box.
I unsoldered the factory pins that are inside the plug, and soldered my new wires to the existing pins. I would recommend going to the factory to see if the individual pins can be purchased. (I didn't - as the day I was doing this was Sunday).
At the time, I put in a new O2 sensor, although the old sensor may be good. Insert & see.
About 2 weeks after I cured the front O2 sensor, the back O2 sensor brought on the check engine light. To date (about a month), I have not corrected the wiring for the second sensor. The ground wire for the 2 sensors and power steering switch are all coupled together.
I hope the ground wire takes care of the problem. If not - let us know. Good luck.
Or set up your CarSpace.com page and use the CarSpace email system.
Justin
I have read in other forums about wiggling the connections to the pcm. I have done that and have found that by pulling up on the last connection(the black one to the rear)after a stall. You are able to hear the fuses "come on". And all the needles on the gauge come up again. After a stall you must turn the key in the off position and turn it back to the on position, the no bus will reappear in the odometer. then try wiggling the connection.
What I did was to bolt a bracket over the pcm. There is a hole underneath the hood where i bolted the bracket. I then took a 4" hose clamp and put it underneath the connection and put it around the bracket. As i tightend the hose clamp it pulled the connection up and in to the pcm.
It has now been 2 weeks without a stall. the 2 days before this fix I had stalled 7 times. the hose clamp cost me under two dollars and bracket and bolt I found in my basement.
If this helps anyone out, please let everyone know.....thanks