Durango over heats while driving. When I stop the temp goes back down. I have changed the thermastat. still same overheating. 2 hoses going into firewall are hot hose on right with radiator cap is hot but hose on left is warm at best. Could this be the water pump or bad radiator?
I have been told that the fuel filter is in the fuel tank. They are not like the normal filters and are supposed to last 100,000 miles. Apparantly they are integrated with the pump and when you change one, you change the other. That is what the Firestone tech told me when I went in for an oil change. That would be for '04 and up.
Had to replace front and lower ball joints on 04 Durango with 51,000 miles on it ! I have driven full size vans before buying Durango, never replaced the ball joints until about 90,000 miles. Anyone else having this problem? Am told by the dealership orginal ball joints are lube for "lifetime" of the truck, must have missed this one?. Also, its interesting the new ball joints have "zerk" fittings , GM , FORD and Chrysler do not have fitting on their trucks anymore per my mechanic at dealership. Disgusting and sad. I guess the engineers are on a budget "leave off the zerk fittings" and let consumer pay for them later , plus labor for replacement.
hey guys i bought my durango just before i deployed, and since i love it and so does my wife im thinking about putting a supercharger on it? do you guys have any into on it? i had a kenny bell "Blowzilla" on my mustang...is there a good name out there for them? thanks
I drive my durango and as long as I am moving the heat out of the vents works fine. As soon as I come to a stop the air coming out of the front vents goes cold. Once I start moving again the air coming through the vents gets warm again.? What should I do? I checked the levels of fluid and found them to be allright. I replaced the thermostat and it still does it.
AC relay switch located under dash on passenger side. Locate wires to underside of blower unit...unplug from blower. Remove two small bolts on outlet...pull downward and the outlet will come out or the blower box. This outlet has relay circuit board built into it...this is what needs to be replaced. Buy new part at Dodge dealer (aftermarket not yet available), install and plug wires to outlet. Should fix the problem. NOW...in extreme heat conditions, roll windows down and turn on blower fan for moment to cool the unit down BEFORE turning on AC...When this circuit board is excessively hot, it tends to burn out easily ... cool down the blower before turning on AC I've replaced two of these relay cuircuit boards and since I've used this procedure I haven't had to replace one. Good luck.
I have 2002 Durango and have similiar sounds...my mechanic replaced an exhaust gasket on the driver's side and that seemed to make the noise go away. I was surprised because, like you, I was certain that it was a valve, push rod, or bearing gone bad. Same symptom....noisey when it started and tended to lessen as engine warmed up. Mechanic explained that the gasket would leak while engine was cold then seal up as engine/exhaust heated up...Check it out...good luck
have your exhaust gaskets checked; while engine is cool (at start up) I had similiar trouble and my mechanic explained that the noise was most evident while engine was cool because gaskets were cool and leak occurred...yet as exhaust heated up, they'd seal and the noise seemed to go away unless under extreme pressure. Check it out...might be the problem...good luck
Replace AC blower relay located under dash on passenger side. Locate wires, trace to plug...unplug...remove two small bolts from outlet...pull downward and remove this outlet from blower unit. It has relay curcuit built in..It is burned out...buy new one...reinstall. NOW...in hot weather, turn blower on a minute or so to cool down the unit BEFORE turning on AC...I've replace two of these and since doing this, things have been good. Good luck.
I had this same trouble recently and it was my hub assembly. I know this was posted a long time ago but there was no reply and if someone else needs an answer, here it is.
A year too late, but back flush the heater core if all else fails. The best way to know if this is your problem is feel the hoses in and out of the heater core (located on the firewall on the 98 model) if they are both hot you need to disconnect the hoses and with just a garden hose you can fix this.
My rear defogger suddenly stopped working, The glass element seems fine and I have continuity between the connectors on the glass, the black ground wire is good, the black and white wire gets no voltage when the defogger is on. I checked the switch and it's working, The black and white wire coming out of the switch has voltage when the switch is on, the rearview mirror defoggers works.
Somewhere down the line I'm guessing there is a fuse/fusable link or relay but I can't find it.
Press the odometer reset button and hold while turning the key on and you should get a check then release and this should check your gage to see if its ok.
Thanks for the past info on this problem. My 2000 Dodge Durango with 69,000miles developed the o2 sensor problems, and thanks to info from several of you guys we finally got the Power Steering Pressure switch replaced that was leaking fluid throught the wiring harnass. It doesn't smell, but the check engine light is still on, and fuel economy has dropped (7.4 MPG) , and there is still poor engine perfromance, although we have gotten rid of the rolling black plume of smoke coming out the exhaust. We are on our FOURTH o2 sensor. Please someone tell me how to get rid of all the power steering fluid that has run through the wiring. I think that is what' still causing the check engine light to still go on. Or if you have another suggestions they would be welcome. I want to get rid of this vehicle but cannot even begin to sell it with the check engine light still on. HELP!!!
I have a 2004 Durango with the same problems that you are experiencing. They all started after I took my vehicle in for the recall with the wiring in the front dash. They have already replaced the "modular" and a couple of other parts and every time I leave the dealership they assure me the problem is fixed. Then after driving for a few minutes the light is back on. Sometimes it turns on with I start my car and stays on the entire time. Other times I will drive for 10 or 15 minutes then it will come on. Other times is will be on for an extended car ride and then blink off and on for then remain on again. Today I drove for 45 minutes and the light never came on. I am frustrated and don't know what to do. I drive a lot in a major city and for long trips. They can't guarantee me that my airbag will deploy and say that the problem can be any number of things..........
Anyone else having similar problems or possible suggestions?
I also have a 2000 5.2 liter and after I drive it and it gets good and warmed up, after it sits for about a hour and a half it won't start,but then after 3 to 4 hrs. it cranks right up. Ive had tune ups thinking it has something to do with the plugs and just recently had a crankshaft sensor replaced and two days later I'm back at square one.If you find out the problem I would be most gratefull..
I need some help. My durango started shutting off while I was driving about 4 months ago. I couldn't figure out what was wrong so kept driving it while it would shut off and then restart after sitting for a few minutes. My mechanic changed the PCM chip and it worked great for a few days and then began shutting off again. He then changed a couple of the sensors and on my way home from picking it up it shut down again. I was able to get it started and then worked fine for 2 weeks. Then it shut down again one day and wouldn't start up even after one hour. I told my mechanic that I noticed that while he wasd towing me home, the dashboard lights were on but even though I had the car turned on the engine lights were not on (like when the key is in the on position but the car is not on) and showed that there was no gas even though I had just filled up the tank, then suddenly it dinged as it finally "turned on" and then showed that there was a full tank of gas. He said that maybe the fuel filter had gotten sucked into the fuel injection system and he replaced that but the damn car still stalled on me. I haven't driven it since cause every single time it has stalled I had my two young boys in the car with me. I have been borrowing my dad's car. It's such a shame that I'm still paying on the car and for the insurance and am not able to use it and don't know how to fix it.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me????? Please help me, I'm feeling desperate already cause I can just feel all my money being sucked out of my bank account!!!!!
The airbag light comes on and off on my '02 Durango. Dealer said seat belt tensioner needed to be replaced. After replacement the passenger side coded bad. They replaced that also. When I picked up the car the light came back on. I took it right back and after several days of troubleshooting they said front and passenger seat belts needed to be replaced. I contacted Chrysler and they agreed to pay for repair costs. I picked the car up yesterday after seat belt replacement and the light came back on. I took it right back again. Now they are saying possibly the airbag control module is bad. They have had my car for a month. Help!
Did you only replace the power steering switch and thats all?
If so - you need to remove the connector (Durango side) by cutting all 4 wires off. Take apart the connectors and the 4 pins holding the wires in place. Attach 4 new wires to the pins - solder in place. Reassembly the connector.
I completed this task a couple of years ago and do not remember where the 4 wires connect to - within the wiring harness, although 3 of them were in the location of the passenger inside fender / air cleaner box. The 4th wire attached in the area of the intake manifold - on the passenger side.
I have had no problems since completing this task on our 2000 4.7 Durango.
Once you have done one - to repeat the task is easy.
I should have taken pictures and documented this procedure - but didn't.
Perhaps some one else on this site may be more helpful.
I thought that I would advise you that there is more to do than simply replace the power steering switch.
Hey, sam1778! I just wanted to thank you for saving me a ton of time and who knows how much money. Your tips were right on and greatly appreciated! Although I had no luck with p/n PC507, my local NAPA store was able to eventually identify it as their p/n EP-27 ($17.95) using the descriptions you provided. Thanks again for taking the time to offer such helpful details. Much appreciation.
The only sure way is to replace the wires that go to the O2 sensor. While you're at it, you should isolate the ground from the sensor to another point rather than rely on the ground that is in the harness. That way, if your pressure switch ever fails again, you need not worry about fluid making the O2 sensor fail.
Still living the o2 sensor nightmare. We are on O2 sensor 4 or 5. The original message was for o2 sensor, and a replacement ,and the second one did not work. I posted on several forums. With the help from some resonders we discovered a bad power steering pressure switch was causing fluid to be forced through the lines. Had to replace the battery, module, and the o2 sensor before we found out the problem with the pressure switch. We still had fluid going through the wires although there was no pressure now that the PS pressure switch was relaced. Another forum discussed the cutting of the wires, but found out from another person that there is a by pass wiring harness, So we had that put on because the check engine light was still coming on with o2 sensor code. This still did not work, so we put another O2 sensor on today. As per this forum we re grounded . The mechanic drove it without check engine light coming on. I got in and drove it less than 1/2 block and check engine light came on. I picked it up after hours so I could not talk to the mechanic, but I drove home in tears as this has been going on for almost a year now. HELP! ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE APPRECIATED! Fuel economy has dropped from 10.4 mpg to 7.1
Sounds like you are going to need a new pcm,complete wire harness,new power steering pressure switch and a new 02 sensor to complete this repair.I just finished with the same problem and found the inside of the pcm is full of power steering fluid.The harness will not be able to be saved either verry costly and quite a pain to replace.Trade in?Good luck!!!!
I've called several dealers and they tell me they never heard of this problem. I just found fluid leaking into the wiring harness on my nephew's truck. Does anyone have a part number for this bypass harness? I'm perfectly happy to run a new ground for the O2 sensor but it sounds like he would still have problems with the PCM.
WHEN I WROTE WE HAD DONE ALL OF THE SUGGESTIONS. FINALLY HAD BOTH THE UPSTREAM AND DOWN STREAM O2 SENSORS REPLACED . THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON. HOPE THIS DOES THE TRICK, GAS MILEAGE HAS IMPROVED. YEAH!!! I'LL HAVE TO GET THE PART NUMBER FOR THE BYPASS HARNESS.
I KNOW OF MANY DEALERS WHO THINK I'LL JUST A GIRL AND DON'T KNOW ABOUT THIS PROBLEM BUT BELIEVE ME IT IS REAL. THEY SAY "THERE IS NO WAY THE TRANSMISSION CAN GET INTO THE WIRES". BULL CRAP!!! THE PART NUMBER IS :THe part number is 56045483AC and cost $66.00 as of now.
Michael, Did you get anyone to reply about your problem ? I am getting a similar problem with my 2005 Durango Limited. But it started when I replaced the battery after about 48,000 miles. The first problem was a low tire pressure light that stays on and then a week later the cargo lamp light stays on unles I go and open and close the rear hatch once or twice. Thanks, Jim
I have a '06 Durango that stalls when you go through big puddles of water. Even at slow speeds it stalls or the power steering goes out then comes back on. I took it to the dealer and they checked under the hood and said everything looks to be fine. The only time it happens is when you go through a puddle or sometimes when it is raining. The dealership couldn't help, can anyone else ? joe06durango
My 2000 Durango with a 4.7 Engine would stall, espically when the engine was warm and restarted. What I discovered was that when the engine sat for a minute my COOLANT TEMPERATURE SWITCH would read 110 degrees instead of 180+ for a minute or 2 when restarted. Also was slow to rise in coolant temp change. The guage on the instruement panel showed temp OK. Replaced coolant sensor and now runs great and no more codes.
I was looking in my owners manual and it recommends a tune up at 30,000 miles. I took it to a Midas and was told they believe I have platinum plugs that only need to be replaced at 100,000. Also that the plugs cost $17 each. Can someone let me know what I should do.
Hi all... So I am now on my 2nd Sears battery. Each time the car sits for 1 week or so (this time it was 9 days!), it dies. There is completely NO power. Any ideas?!? The shop said the alternator was fine. I never had a problem with Sears batteries and now 2 problems?!?!? It seems too weird.. Are there any known drainage issues?!?! THanks.
Comments
When I stop the temp goes back down.
I have changed the thermastat.
still same overheating.
2 hoses going into firewall are hot
hose on right with radiator cap is hot
but hose on left is warm at best.
Could this be the water pump or bad radiator?
replaced oil sensor switch stil does samething any suggestions?
I have driven full size vans before buying Durango, never replaced the ball joints until about 90,000 miles.
Anyone else having this problem?
Am told by the dealership orginal ball joints are lube for "lifetime" of the truck, must have missed this one?. Also, its interesting the new ball joints have "zerk" fittings , GM , FORD and Chrysler do not have fitting on their trucks anymore per my mechanic at dealership.
Disgusting and sad. I guess the engineers are on a budget "leave off the zerk fittings" and let consumer pay for them later , plus labor for replacement.
gl
Somewhere down the line I'm guessing there is a fuse/fusable link or relay but I can't find it.
Any Suggestions?
Thanks
2000 Durango 5.9L 4wd
It loses power suddenly...in traffic ...shuts off...will not restart right away.
Is it a computer problem?
Thanks...JTB
How was yours fixed?
JTB
How did you resolve your problem?
I have the same.
JTB
Anyone else having similar problems or possible suggestions?
Does anyone have any suggestions for me????? Please help me, I'm feeling desperate already cause I can just feel all my money being sucked out of my bank account!!!!!
If so - you need to remove the connector (Durango side) by cutting all 4 wires off. Take apart the connectors and the 4 pins holding the wires in place. Attach 4 new wires to the pins - solder in place. Reassembly the connector.
I completed this task a couple of years ago and do not remember where the 4 wires connect to - within the wiring harness, although 3 of them were in the location of the passenger inside fender / air cleaner box. The 4th wire attached in the area of the intake manifold - on the passenger side.
I have had no problems since completing this task on our 2000 4.7 Durango.
Once you have done one - to repeat the task is easy.
I should have taken pictures and documented this procedure - but didn't.
Perhaps some one else on this site may be more helpful.
I thought that I would advise you that there is more to do than simply replace the power steering switch.
no problems otherwise
???
Did you get anyone to reply about your problem ? I am getting a similar problem with my 2005 Durango Limited. But it started when I replaced the battery after about 48,000 miles. The first problem was a low tire pressure light that stays on and then a week later the cargo lamp light stays on unles I go and open and close the rear hatch once or twice.
Thanks,
Jim
joe06durango