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where to get.
First, the fix. My a/c was blowing cool air. I bought the redtek recharge kit and added almost 1 can of the 12r that comes with it. (trackers only hold a max of .99 lbs of coolant gas so be careful) The video on their web site was helpful. A/c now runs nice and cool. If it appears to leak down again I may try the stop leak that came in the kit.
Problem #1 - I'm trying to remove the license plate on the front of my tracker. Both nuts simply spin...and there doesn't seem to be a way to get at the back side, short of removing the bumper. Is (was) there a plate on the inside that has rusted out so now the nuts spin? It sounds like something larger then a nut is turning inside the bumper.
Problem #2 - the truck seems to be reverse challenged. I can't get it into reverse without grinding and swearing. Some times it pops right in, other times it grinds and won't go in. I use to notice this the very odd time, but it seems to be getting worse.
Thanks guys.
Have a coool summer.
http://www.rockauto.com/
just ordered a bunch of parts for my 91 tracker.
if you need other engine parts , gee, try GM.
response, to Snickle
for spare engine try national networked autowreckers.
get email, call them on phone when contacts come in .
you will be surprised.
http://www.junkyarddog.com/
I am not affiliated with any.
jtgh 91traker 1.6l 4wd, 2d.
Problem #1 - I'm trying to remove the license plate on the front of my tracker. Both nuts simply spin...and there doesn't seem to be a way to get at the back side, short of removing the bumper. Is (was) there a plate on the inside that has rusted out so now the nuts spin? It sounds like something larger then a nut is turning inside the bumper.
Problem #2 - the truck seems to be reverse challenged. I can't get it into reverse without grinding and swearing. Some times it pops right in, other times it grinds and won't go in. I use to notice this the very odd time, but it seems to be getting worse.
Well, I have my 2001 Tracker back on the road after finding a low milage (4 cyl.) engine for it.
Now, I need to get it cool again!
Just had it checked this morning, the compressor is out again. (2nd Time!) It cost around $850 the first time.
Today, a different mechanic than before, quoted me $850 to fix it!
Is there any other manufacturer's Compressor that will replace, or can be adapted to work on this system?
Could you take another car's compressor and adapt it?
(i.e. Toyota, Honda, Nissen, etc.)
Hey, I built Hot Rods back in the 50's, I KNOW stuff can be adapted, if you figure out how.
Anybody got any ideas/experience on this matter?
How about "after market" compressors? Are there anything available except "Dealer Item" compressors (Not refub's, or re-manufactures either, don't trust 'em!)
Think about it and let me know?
Thanks & Regards.
Sam
SNichol
chris
I own a 2002 Tracker with 125,000 miles and haven’t had any compressor issues, and honestly the compressor used on the Tracker/Vitara is a pretty robust unit. As far as adapting another unit to your vehicle, I would not suggest it, as you will get marginal operation at best, and the likelihood is it will not perform at all. Auto A/C is an extremely difficult system to design, and it is a miracle it works as well as it does. The system has to work in what we used to call “hot dog stand conditions” with everything being a variable such as compressor speed, amount of air flowing across the condenser, amount of latent heat the system needs to remove etc. Each component of the system is designed exactly for the vehicle it is used on.
A few things to be aware of on this system. There is no accumulator, so the system is very charge sensitive. An overcharge situation can cause liquid refrigerant to flow back to the compressor which will cause failure. Remember that an A/C compressor is nothing more then a pump for vapor that turns into a pump for liquid one second before it turns into junk. Also these compressors have no crankcase or oil reservoir, and use the oil that is carried through with the refrigerant to lubricate the compressor, similar in theory to the oil and gas mixture in a 2 stroke engine. If you have a refrigerant leak, oil has leaked from the system, and if you just add refrigerant you will be low on oil. On systems without an accumulator, the oil charge is very low in order to avoid oil slugs from forming and getting into the compressor, so even a little oil leakage lead to failure.
Another thing that isn’t good for the compressor, is going from zero rpm, to 2500 rpm in the push of a button. As much as manufactures tell you that the compressor is designed for “slamming” on, it isn’t. You should take you foot off the gas and let your engine slow down to about 1500 rpm before you turn on the A/C ...this slower start of the compressor puts less stress on the reed valves, and the output side of the rotary veins.
Not that any of this helps your current situation, but I just wanted to share some thoughts, that will hopefully keep you from having to replace the compressor again.
I'm not sure what the problem is with the compressor???
I had it checked out in a local shop. They found it out of freon, so they tried to charge it. They then found that the compressor wouldn't kick on due to an "electrical" problem.
After they checked the electrical, they told me the compressor is bad and won't work and thus the electrical problem.
So now I'm checking my options out.
The first time this happened, the system stopped abruptly during a very hot summer day. (This was the original compressor.)
The mechanic (A different shop than the one I am using right now)told me it had locked-up and was damaged. He put on a new one (Dealer Item) and got it going again.
It didn't cool as well as before.
I took it back and they checked it out and said the expansion valve was bad. (May have helped cause the failure of the compressor. ???)
They replaced the expansion valve and it ran/cooled good for more than a year (past the warranty period on the new compressor.)
Then the compressor stopped coming on, it acted like a blown fuse. The switch lights up like it's on, but the compressor doesn't run. (I guess this is what they called an "Electrical Problem", the clutch doesn't kick-in.)
Their evaluation is the compressor is damaged/locked-up and needs replaced.
That's where I'm at now.
I was told that these new compressors are not as "Bullet Proof" as the old GM compressors were. From what you said about the RPM startup speed, it sounds like it may be more fragile.
Anyway, I'm looking for an inexpensive fix, or at least, a fix that won't be re-occurring.
I am also wondering about/questioning the ability of these mechanics in their expertise on working on this type of system. They may be damaging more than they fixed.
Should I bite the bullet and go back to the Chevrolet dealership and pay their outrageous prices for a better job???
Sorry for the long message, just wanted to get it off my chest and get some possible advise.
Thanks & Regards,
sam
On my way to work today i was clipping at a nice 65mph when all of a sudden, the service engine light lit up, and the vehicle stopped running. I pulled over, noticed that when i attempted to start the car, the oil pressure was good...the car just will not start.
waiting to hear what my local repair guy says...just figured i would see if anybody had any suggestions. the car has over 72K miles on it. It took me to washington state, and back, with no issues at all.
ray
Anyway, the fact the expansion valve was bad, may say something. The only real way they go bad is if the orifice gets jammed up with crud from a compressor failure. Metal pieces floating through the system are never good, and I would almost bet that when the first compressor was changed, they never truly flushed the system, so my guess is you have bits and pieces floating through the system.
The fact that the new compressor doesn’t engage is electrical .so here’s my thoughts. The low pressure switch could be bad and/or plugged up with the aforementioned crude from the previous compressor failure. In the low side line there is a pressure switch that opens when the pressure in the low side in below its set point, usually about 20 psi. This is to prevent the system from starving itself of refrigerant and thus oil, and self destructing. That is why the compressor wont engage in the winter. If you can find the switch, unplug the lead, and jump it out with a piece of wire, and see if the compressor engages. Second thing to check is the relay that actually sends power to the clutch. What I would do is strip off some of the jacket on the two wires going to the compressor, and takes 2 lengths of wire and hook them to the battery. No need to start the car, connect the wires from the battery to the clutch wires. You will hear a loud “click” which is the magnetic clutch pulling in. if you hear the click then it is either the low pressure switch, if you haven’t already ruled that out, or the relay.
I am not sure who you have taken the vehicle to, but auto A/C is a specialty in itself, and if I were you I would take it to a shop that does only auto A/C. Expensive yes, but they truly know what they are doing
You might want to go back and read my previous messages about timing chain breaking & A/C repairs.
I have a 2001 4 door Tracker w/2.0 L engine.
Broke the top timing chain, it wiped out the gears.
FYI,
When the chain breaks the valves are no longer in sync with the pistons. There is no space in the cylinder to allow them to be in the same place at the same time, results: BENT VALVES! Thus, no Compression!
If it turned over more than one or two revolutions, it probably bent them all. May have punched holes in the pistons too.
So, you'll need to do a major head job and examine the tops of the pistons and replace them if needed.
I found out that it is very, very expensive to get parts/engine repair on it. I searched and found a used engine in a wrecking yard with low miles on it and had a mechanic change it out.
I had 207,000 miles on it at the time, so it was like getting a new engine, but at about half price (cost & Labor to install)
So, my friend, you have internal damage...
Welcome to the world of Trackers!
(That Chevrolet doesn't talk about!)
My mechanic, at the time, told me .... " there's something about this engine that they aren't telling anyone! They (Chevy) made it obsolete and change them out each year, even the re builders don't support them. There's something fishy about it, when the manufacturer won't support it." (To be fair, I did find that Chevrolet had a new Short Block for about $4300.00; one re builder here in Houston gave me a "Rebuild" price of around $1800-to-$2000.
(Me furnishing the labor, in and out, which is about $800 to $1000.)
I paid around $2300 for engine, labor, fluids/parts and a replacement of the front, external tension pulley (It was on the verge of locking up).
So far, I'm happy with the outcome, an engine with low miles that purrs like a kitten.
She' ticking along, like a Timex!
Cheers & Good Luck.
snichol
If your concerned about MPG, the last thing you want is a powerboost! If you are talking about them devices that trick the air temp sensor into thinking it is colder outside than it actually is, then you will burn MORE fuel because it wil increase the richness of the air fuel ratio. Thats now them devices work. You will then notice a Decrease in your mpg... btw i forgot, what Yr is your tracker?
btw.. my check engine light went on again today. Pretty sure it's still the code 0441 for Evap .. what else, besides a gas cap not being put on tight enough, can cause a vacum leak or evapuration to trigger the engine light. It has been pretty hot here (CO) the last couple of days. I drive nearly 200 miles a day. I spend most of the morning in Colo Springs.. with as many as 16 stops and starts. I then head to Denver and am on the road for consistant driving for a good hour. I find the light useally comes on when I'm driving home... and after the tank as emptied or is a little below a half tank. Any ideas? I've had the car for 3 years.. never had this problem. But then again I have never driven it 200 miles a day for 3 weeks straight.
thanks...
chris
MAKE MODEL
Chevrolet Tracker
That is where the paint code should be.
Roger.
P.S. Here is a link:
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/choosecolor/choosecolor.aspx?year=2004&make=Che- vrolet&model=Tracker
When there is problem with timing chain or the tensioner - what kind of noise are we talking about here ??
Thanks
Wojo
Especially under the category that has "Repair" in the label.
I broke my timing chain awhile back and it broke the engine!
It would do you well to read all the emails pertaining to timing chains, as they mention noises it makes.
Hope that will help.
SNichol
thanks SNichol
Wojo
Hope this helps.
Maybe you can find some tips there as the users are helpful, friendly and responsive. After all, a Chevy Tracker is just a badged Suzuki Vitara....
In Edmonds, go back to the category "Chevrolet Tracker", Under "Discussion Title" click on " Chevrolet Tracker Maintenance and Repair ".
You can do the search there for "Timing Chain", or just browse through the 55 messages there.
There were some detailed messages about it there.
I have a 2001, 4 door Tracker with 2 wheel drive, automatic trans, with a 2.0 L, 4 cyl. engine.
At about 209,000 miles, the timing chain broke while driving. It bent every valve. I looked at having it rebuilt, but cost were too high.
Buying a short block was also too expensive. So I went on line searching for a better alternative, thus my discussions on Edmonds.
I had a few discussions in Edmonds about it.
I got lucky ...
I bought an engine out of a wreck in a junk yard just a 100 miles from here, with low miles on it.
Been running good since then and now have about 220,000 miles on my Tracker.
It's been a good, dependable car and still is.
But some of the things I learned about it makes me very upset with Chevrolet.
They stuck us with a vehicle that is basically one-of-a-kind, in that:
no other year engine with interchange with it;
not many commercial re-builders will touch it!;
the parts are expensive and/or obsolete, not easy to find;
the AC Compressor has no oil reserve reservoir, so if you have a freon leak, you lose the lubricating oil, which "Whacks' the compressor...
... if you replace the compressor without flushing out the system to remove all damaged particles, it will clog the expansion valve and then "Whack" the compressor again! (I'm speaking from (dumb) experience here. :>)
Sorry to get on a Rant, but they don't tell these things when you buy it.
Anyway, if you suspect a bad timing chain, fix it BEFORE it breaks, or it will do a lot of damage.
Good Luck!
SNichol
thanks
Wojo
I am trying to find your pages at Carspace but I can't find any of you
Before going to that extreme, check for a sticker with a 4 or 5 digit code on it in the glovebox or on a fuse box somewhere. This Guide may give you some hints of places to look.