Chevy Tracker

johnboy545

I've got a 2003 2 door convertible.............Has anyone here ever seen an aftermarket kit to add the rear door lock to the keyless entry system ? In other words, I would love to be able to lock and unlock the rear door along with the driver and passenger doors with either the driver door switch or the key fob.....
I know I can't get one from Chevy, but the dealer said he's seen aftermarket kits that would add the rear door to the circuit that pops the front doors........

Any info how to do this would be greatly appreciated.......

Thanks,

John

raving_bohunk

Back in August, my AC compressor went out and I was told by a mechanic to wait until the spring to have it fixed. Since then, though, the engine has been making a thumping noise and a friend told me it looks like the noise is coming from the broken compressor.
Also, I have dashboard and headlights that flicker and It's not the alternator or the battery. Any ideas?

kenscaper

I recently bought a 2001 Tracker auto 4x4 w/ the 4 cyl. As I had hoped, it gets great gas mileage. My wife uses it as her daily driver and I get a 4wd to go to Mexico. She complains about the lack of power because she was used to her 1999 LTZ Lumina. We still have a 2001 Suburban 2wd though, so she has something else to drive also. I ultimately want to lift it and put the larger tires on it, but I'm afraid that it will really be a dog. Should I get rid of it and find a 6 cyl to pursue my off road dream?

george114

I have a 1999 Tracker with auto trans and 4X4 w/ the 4cyl. I am on my second set of Michelin tires (LTX M/S P215/75R15). The first set I was able to get over 100,000 miles on them. I have traveled on roads, off road, sugar sand, beach sand and I have never been stuck. I don't know just what king of off roading you want to do but I would not advise getting larger that the P215/75R15 tires. Larger tires will load the engine down more, give poorer gas mileage and poorer response. Good luck.

blacktrac

I have a green and a black 2001 trackers, 4 cyl., and although they give me great gas mileage they do lack the power. There're great for speed limit driving(35, 45, 55, and 65) but if you want to go faster on the highway I recommend a 6 cyl. tracker or vehicle but they get me were I want to go, rain, snow or shine.

kenscaper

That was the size I was considering in a BFG All Terrain which are just under 8-1/2" wide and 28" tall. I buried it to the frame with it stock the first time on the beach down below San Felipe, but got towed out. I aired down the tires and seemed to be ok but I was more careful to keep it moving. I think I still want to put a 2-1/2" suspension lift from either Calmini or Rock Steady. Is yours lifted, any thoughts? Thanks!

kenscaper

That's how I feel about the speed. I mostly pulled 60-65 mph over the Fwy 8 grade through the mountains toward the desert on the way to Mexico and still got 24 mpg overall which was cool. I do think that I want to put tires and a lift though. I wonder if there are hosepower kits to make up for the added weight, maybe a hi flow air filter? Thanks!

starshine3

I have a 2002 Chevy Tracker. Recently began feeling a vibration when I let off the gas and a metallic clunking noise when shifting as well as taking off and stopping. Was told it may be a u-joint but when I had a friend look at it he drained the rear differential and found it milky with metal shavings. Brought it in to the shop and they said the problem is in fact the rear u-joint. Would the rear u-joint cause the milky metallic lube...or is there a second problem?

toms1964

I have a 2002 Tracker as well. I had the clunking every time I let off the gas and accelerating, same as you. I thought the problem was a u-joint too, but it wasn't the case at all. You're going to need a new rear differential... the ring gear is worn out. I lucked out and found a used one for 550, and labor was about $500. Good luck!

billp5

I do not know wehre you are but have a suggestion for a low cost, simple repair. If you have a "Pull A Part" salvage yard in your area or another salvage yard of the type you should be able to find a rear axel assembly at a reasonable price. They are really not much trouble to change, just unbolt the one in the yard and bolt it ack up to yours. You will have to bleed the brakes when you install the replacement one. You should be able to do the pupp and replace is less than 4 hours.

If you do not know how to do this but have some mechanical ability, purchase a HAYNES manual (Auto Zone or Advanced parts usually have them). It will give adequate instructions on how to do this.

hristo

Hi, anybody knows what year Suzuki armrest will fit 2001 tracker? Thanks

steveh1155

This started out as just an intermittent problem - an occasional vibration in the front when driving at any speed (even in neutral), now it's constant. I can feel it through the steering wheel & it feels like when you are driving on the rumble strip on the side of the interstate only it's constant. I'm thinking front wheel bearing - I can't think of anything else that would feel like that. I jacked up the front & spun the wheel and didn't notice anything, but without weight on them I don't know if that's a good test. I've parked it until I can figure it out, but is a front wheel bearing something a do-it-yourself shade-tree mechanic could do, are special tools/press needed. I've replaced wheel bearings before on my pickup but they weren't pressed in or anything. This is for a 1999 Tracker 4X4 auto. Thanks anyone that could give me advice. Steve

sbrudzsmith

i had a problem that my engine sounded loud when in idle or in reverse.
i had different mechanics tell me that it was caused by the engine mounts or trans mounts, but come to find out, it was just my hood vibrating. all they did was tighten something for my hood and it no longer makes that noise.

tit4tat

I have the same issue with my 1998 Tracker. I found a great solution on another forum, however my computer crashed and I lost the site. This guy made the clips out of metal. Let me know if you find any clips or a solution.

friednads

Try J. C. Whitney (believe online is www.jcwhitney.com)

wbr6464

hey i have a 2002 zr2 tracker 4 door i'm putting a 2" coil lift on. does anyone know how large a tire i can use without rubbing an also not loosing power?

earlyghias

Hi, read lots of information on timing chains and damage. Did anyone take their Tracker to the Suzuki or Chevy dealership for a quote to replace the chains? We are looking to pick up a nice 2000 Tracker 2.0 convertible with about 150K miles. It is in excellent condition with no rust and seems to run fine. There are no service records so based upon the posts it sounds like this should be done but I was looking to the shop cost to replace the chaings. Thanks

toms1964

The timing chain should be changed every 100,000 miles or sooner. If there are no service records, the best thing to do is get a new one right away. No sense in spending the money on it if the engine will be shot soon.

fruitrugs

In response to frenchcar, my mother has a 99 tracker that has 162,000 miles and going strong. At 150,000 it had its first garage visit. It needed a new timing belt. 600.00 job in all........going again like new.

i JUST today bought a very pretty white convertible 99 Vitara 4x4 with 135,000 miles on it. Am I crazy? I paid 3500.00. It has new white top and new tires. it was very well kept....hope I am not crazy. I go get it next week. THe prettiest one I ever saw but I wanted one with less miles.

toothclark

towing a boat of 1200 lbs is fine

brew7021

First post, pretty excited. Searched and no problem is like mine. FROZEN CLUTCH?! If you have some answers please email me at [Email removed] THANKS!

I have a 1990 Suzuki Sidekick JX 4X4. 96K miles. I live in Fredonia, NY which is Western New York, just south of Buffalo. Keep that in mind.

I first started having problems with the clutch months ago. I would push the pedal all the way to the floor and I was like I wasn't engaging the entire clutch. I would have to force the gears in to place carefully, especially first and reverse. I adjusted the clutch cable by moving the two nuts that hold the cable in place right in front of the clutch arm. That worked for a while.

Right around December 20th, the temperature dropped below freezing and I jumped in my Sidekick to warm it up. I pushed down on the clutch and it was insanely hard to push down, almost like the clutch was frozen. At this point, I had no idea how the clutch worked so I pushed as hard as I could and got the pedal down and the car started. I came back 10 minutes later and had absolutely no tension on the pedal. I found where the cable came through the firewall and it wouldn't stay hooked on the top of the pedal. I clearly stretched the cable out. Me and my friend changed the cable the next day (neither of us are experienced mechanics), it seemed easy enough. We still found that there wasn't enough tension on the pedal so we adjusted everything we could. The two nuts in front of the arm, the nut behind the arm and in desperation we loosened up the clutch armed and moved it counter-clockwise a couple degrees just to get that little extra bit of tension. I'm not sure what we did wrong, but I think that may have cause me to burn out my clutch.

On the 23rd, I went to Rochester to see my parent's for the Holiday. We brought the truck to GoodYear and simply asked them to tell me what was wrong with the clutch, if anything. They told me that the clutch was warn out and it needed to be changed. $500 dollars later, the clutch felt better and I assumed all was fixed. (Before you guys rip me apart for bringing it to a GoodYear, my father's friend is the store manager and they were desperate for business.)

Back in Fredonia on January 4th, it was again below freezing. I went out to start my truck and I had the same problem as before. It felt as if the clutch was frozen and would not move with the cable. I once again, like an idiot, pushed the pedal in and assume that I again stretched the cable. I had just a little more tension on the pedal than I did the first time so I tried driving it. I was practically driving with no clutch at all. I got stuck at a red light as I wasn't able to get it in to first. Eventually, I crammed it in to gear and I brought the truck to Ellman's garage in Dunkirk, NY. I asked him about the classic firewall problem and wanted to know if it needed to be addressed. He said it was flexing a little bit but that wasn't causing my big problem. He then continued to say that his garage didn't work on transmissions. He directed me to Bobek's Trans down the street. He said he spent hours looking at it, trying to figure out what was wrong with it. He even set me up with a metal reinforcement on the firewall simply to see if it would help. He concluded that it must be the new clutch that's giving me the problem seeing as, according to him, everything else that was visible looked in order. He charged me $40 for that information.

After hours on the phone with GoodYear, we took advantage of the nationwide warranty and had the truck towed to the GoodYear in Hamburg, NY (about 40 miles away) for the price of.. on the house. They pulled the truck in, took a quick look at it and decided that it was INDEED the firewall flexing that was causing my problem and still does even though Bobek stuck a reinforcement on there. I asked them if that was the case, then how did they not notice that when they were putting the clutch in, and so on. They kept saying that they did what they said they were going to do and they're done with the car. So basically GoodYear does not back up their "Nationwide Warranty" at all, which I guess really isn't a surprise. The problem I have is I originally asked them what was wrong with my clutch and who knows if they misdiagnosed it. They never told me if the old clutch they took out was even warn completely or not.

The guys at GoodYear claim that I can drive the car 40 miles from Hamburg to Fredonia, but I am not confident at all. I feel I might burn out the clutch, or worse drop the transmission. At this point, I've ordered another new cable. My plan is to go to the GoodYear parking lot, tell everyone walking in that they'll scam them out of their hard earned money and get my truck running successfully with in 20 minutes. I'm hoping that the cable is stretched and thats whats causing the pedal to have no tension and therefore causing the clutch to not engage all the way. What do you guys think? I cannot rely on the mechanics at GoodYear to help me, nor does it seem like any mechanic shop wants to take on a 21 year old japanese truck with problems.

Please help.

Oh and if the clutch IS freezing and causing me to stretch out the cable over and over again is it possible to lubricate it to the point where it wont happen? Is that even possible?

I also found the post saying the engine may try to ground out through the clutch if the main ground strap is missing or broken. I haven't been able to check that since the truck is 40 minutes away, but is that possibly my problem?

I'll be heading up with a friend of mine who is a novice mechanic on Friday night, hoping that he can help me. Any information you guys have will help extremely. I've downloaded the kick-fix.com archives and plan to print them out for my friend tomorrow. I have never really worked on cars but I'm anxious to start doing my own repairs on my ZUKI! :mad:

esrick

The power button causes each gear to be held longer when you give it the gas. It will give it more pulling power before it shifts. I usually use it when in four wheel drive low for the most consistent power and shifting. It's good if you are towing also because it puts less stress on the transmission. Also, if the button is on and you put it in 2, it will start out in 2 and stay there no matter what. Good for starting on slippery surfaces.

halstedrox

I have a '99 Tracker with the 2.0. I was looking in the Haynes manual and it said I needed to drop the pan to change the filter AND the fluid. I was checking things out under there today and noticed there is a drain plug. That is great news but what I was wondering is how to drop the pan to change the filter. It looks to me like there is NO clearance between the bottom of the pan and the frame. It appears to me like a LOT of stuff is in the way of the pan. I'll be content with just changing the fluid (it is pretty dark) but it seems odd to me that I would have to loosen the motor mounts (and lots of other stuff), lift the engine just to drop the pan to change the filter. Please tell me I'm wrong. Otherwise its just gonna be 2 quarts of Dex 4 and a quart of Lucas and I'll call it a day.

george114

Yes, the pan can be removed without undoing anything else. First drain the oil. Second remove all the pan screws that hold the pan in place. Then carefully remove the pan out from the transmission. It is a little tricky but it does come off. Last remove the filter. Reverse the process to put everything back together. Good luck.

madwike

Hello, can anyone help me? I recently bought a 2002 Chevy Tracker LT 4 wheel drive with the original steel wheels but no center caps. I know what you all are going to say ebay, but they don't have them I have been all over the internet looking but cannot find any. I would not mind aftermarket center caps but they say they will not work with the original steel wheels. Please can anyone help me I am about to go out of my mind. Thanks in advance

iwon

Sounds like lifters might be rattleing. Add 1 quart of LUCAS oil stabilizer when you change the oil next time. {found cheapest at Rural king farm stores}. If this stops or quits it down, have a mechanic remove valve cover to inspect cam/lifters. Oil passages may be clogged. Also GM has been selling low grade cams for yrs in all thier cars so cam may need replaced?

zoeysmom

Hi, I have a 2002 tracker..120,000 miles. In for inspection...it leaked oil slowly and my mechanic said he would have to lift the timing chain cover to find the problem as that's where it is coming from. A friend said it sounds like it probably will be something major and costly. So far, I need tires and the evaporator vent solenoid to pass inspection. approx. $800 for 4 tires and solenoid. Once past inspection, the tailpipe needs replacement as it is starting to sway...(164.00)...after that, this oil leak thing has to be addressed.....

So, two questions, how serious could this be, and also, would you say its probably time to replace the truck....I'm thinking it is...opinions anyone?

jak14

I have a 2001 Tracker 4 WD sedan with 2.0 motor. It has an intermittent issue especially when cold where it seems to bog down, will not accelerate when in gear. If I put it in neutral it will rev as normal then back in gear it will bog down, not accelerate. Problem goes away after a few seconds. While driving it does hesitate some but will accelerate when pushed. Also there is a bit of a fluttering engine noise when I floor it in gear. What could it be?

nolawyers

On a 2000 Tracker 4WD, 5 spd. transmission. what is transmission R&R time ? Have bad clutch throwout arm to replace.
Thanks in advance.

kibble3

Try craigslist.com

awol65

Any one have a wiring diagram for the AC I have a short somewhere
awol65

stever

Try BBBind.com. You have to register, but it's pretty painless and it's free (so far at least!).

twm1010

Have a 2003 tracker, and it wont start. I read most of the old post, but the tracker has been setting for a day. Went to leave and it would not start. And info would be helpful, because I am between jobs. Thank you.

bex1

What exactly does 'won't start' mean? Does it crank? Or do nothing? If it's cranking, can you get it started with test fuel sprayed into the intake? If you can, then chances are your problem is on the fuel side of ignition. You may also want to pull your plugs and see if they are wet, indicating that the car is flooding.....

jmhobson

Just came upon your post while having the same problem myself. I tried WD40, which did fix the problem for awhile, but now still doesn't always work.

Possible solution:
Insert the key into the tailgate lock hole. Turn it into the unlock position as far to the left as it will go. With the other hand (still holding the key in unlock), hold up the release button (above the license plate). While holding both in said positions, close the door all the way and open it. Repeat a few times without ever letting go of either. Close the door all the way and then let go of the latch and key.

That's what I did and somehow it worked. Probably a temporary solution. I'm sure there's some worn out part behind it, but figured I'd share it.

toms1964

Same thing here. I lubed the heck out of it and 6 months later it doesn't work. I've thought about replacing the guts, which are over the license plate assembly, but I think the same would happen with another one. Obviously the problem is not unique. I will try your fix just so I can get the door open. The thing needs to be removed, taken apart and cleaned and lubed. I don't think it's a broken part, I think it's just dirty. One thing I noticed is the handle stays in the up position aftger releasing it. I have to manually pull it back down with my fingers. If I go to the driver's door and unlock the tailgate using the auto lock and then try to open the back, sometimes it will work. Sometimes I have to do that 20 times but eventually it will open..

faecanuck

I just bought an '01 Tracker, after waiting for a long time to get one. It's a 5 speed, 4x4 and the tranny needs some work. I was told the clutch at first, and it seemed like a clutch issue, so a new clutch kit went in. Nope... further troubles led us to taking the tranny apart. I need a bearing kit, which isn't too much grief. The big problem is, I need a new Input Shaft.... Apparently ALL parts have been discontinued by GM. So, I've called around and called around and had lots of people give me their condolences, etc., but I still need that shaft. Any ideas?

ang33ief

Thinking of buying a 2006 grand vit. With 124,000 on it. Will it go a lot more miles, a one owner car. Thanks. Harry

Mr_Shiftright

That depends on what maintenance it has received in the past. If you aren't a gearhead yourself, run the car through a pre-purchase inspection. What's the price on it? $3K-$4K something like that?

ang33ief

It's my sister in laws car, thinking of giving it to daughter in law for $500. She has little money and now drives a Mazda m. 5 with 266,000, I do not want to have her take a car that will deplete her small savings.

ang33ief

Also, I see on most of the posts that the suz gv was made in Canada, my sister in law says hers was made in Japan? 2006

leviallday

I asked this question in a different forum but i feel itll get more success here. 2dr soft top manual trans. I believe it is the Suzuki crossover it has the Suzuki parts on it. Transmission stick shift pops up and out of gearing pain in the rear end to put back in place. Anyone have this problem can i fix it? T.I.A

richardgengle

poorcruzer said:

Hi there: If you open your hood and look at the left front side of the engine below the intake plenum, which is the tubular cast aluminium piece on top of the engine. You will see a horizontal hose travelling from the middle of the engine to the cylinder head. This is the PVC hose, at the end of the hose at the head is the PVC valve. The PVC valve should just pull out, but buy a new one and take a look at it before you pull the old one out.

does this go from the rear of the engine to the center left? I have a hose that goes from dead center of the rear of the engine, that is just plugged off with a screw and hose clamp. any idea where that might go?

richardgengle

arkainzeye said:

i just traded in my 1999 2-door tracker for a 2004 v-6 4door tracker. can anyone PLEASE share with me the fluid capacities? how much oil, trany etc.. i have the owners booklet but i cant seen the findout how Much fluid each part of the tracker takes.. i want to replace all fluids with synth just like i did with my last tracker..

try the dealership, or an oil change place... pay them for a change, then ask them for a receipt of what they did, quarts of each fluid in, and max

richardgengle

2 questions.
1- how do i search a forum only, not all vehicles?
2- I have a hose that goes from dead center of the rear of the engine, that is just plugged off with a screw and hose clamp. any idea where that might go?

kyfdx

richardgengle said:

2 questions.
1- how do i search a forum only, not all vehicles?
2- I have a hose that goes from dead center of the rear of the engine, that is just plugged off with a screw and hose clamp. any idea where that might go?

From this page: https://forums.edmunds.com/categories/home

You can choose by topic, instead of make/model. (for instance, Repairs and Maintenance)
Or, by make/model

There is no search function for words within a discussion.

Superfly77

Change it to manual hubs auto locking suck unless u use 4x4 a lot. handles a lot better and I got like 4 mpg better fuel mileage cause no resistance from front differential.i have 03 Chevy tracker manual hubs not option .think I ordered them for 98 Suzuki Samaria. count your splines on end of axel but real easy to change