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Anyway, if you are not able to exactly locate the sound then (do this only if all the things I mentioned in my previous paragraph are checked) I'll suggest to raise your car completely and place it over some good jacks... some people like to raise only the front side but for me that doesn't represent your car at the floor level (won't be horizontal). In that position and with the hood open, ask somebody to start and "drive" your car; as soon as you start hearing the sound try to locate where that sound is coming from... if no luck, then as part of the "driving" as your helper to move the wheel to all the right and then try all the left and check for the sound.
Let us know what you find. Good luck
If your ABS light is on, your ABS does NOT work.
I would suggest:
A. Open the little gray rubber cap on the top of the module (on your left when you open the hood), and then carefully pull up the plastic cap under it. Add VERY SLOWLY some brake-fluid, and check if you see it rising up in the clear plastic reservoir. If you were low on fluid -- that may fix the problem. You may have a leakage in the system and need to top up every now and then...
If, after you added the fluid, the light still stays on --- open both caps again, leave the module reservoir open, and then turn on the engine and leave it running for 10 minutes. This way air comes out of the system and the fluid penetrates into the module (this is all based on what happened to me the last time I did it).
B. You can find a USED ABS Module for less than $200, according to my experience. Just check with the appropriate car-parts dealer. Installing it is about another $150. So instead of $1,200-1,600 (which Honda dealers charge, and they use REBUILT modules, not new), you can do it all for about $350.
Hope this helps!
The good news is that I did redo my window tints. Before, it was all bubbled up in the rear and hard to see through. Like looking through a clear paper cup filled with grape soda! Now its a shade darker all around and now I can feel the difference between the amount of heat. Only paid $100! It was $30 to remove the old tint and $75 for the tint i picked. He just gave it to me for $100. Thats for 5 windows.
My last few pet peeves to work out are the front window tint, antenna, and dealership. My front window has the stock tint embedded in the glass but the "95" sticker left an imprint that won't go away. So did the "SALE" sticker. Does anyone know how to banish them?
The antenna won't go up, it won't go down. It makes noise and is still irritating. Suddenly, I remember why I wanted a 1996 or 1997 :sick: ... Oh well.
Finally is my dealership issue. I'm still waiting for the parts for the TSB to come in. My check engine light greets me daily and i wish it would go away! I really dislike the color orange now! As i mentioned before, the part I need is causing the squealing sound only when the revs are sustained above 3k for cruises or 2.5k when accelerating. They also recommend me change my oil filter, air filter and oil. 1 I can do but the rest, not so much. The dealer is making my MPG suffer because it went from 24mpg city average to around 19city . BTW, i had my 1st sub $35 fill up. $30 exactly. I'M CELEBRATING TONIGHT :shades: !!
ps: I forgot to mention how hard it is to find a sale on size p205/60r-15 tires...
-Cj :sick:
Hope this helps.
-Cj
That's what I thought... until I hit a patch of snow while turning and hit the brakes The ABS kicked in! I asked a dealer about it and he said that it still worked if the light was on. It simply added to my confusion but I know it worked because I could hear and feel it.
Thanks for the advice though. I may have to look into a used pump now that my son is driving it. Although we don't get much snow here.
ABS is GREAT!
BTW, I've crashed my 96 Accord in a wreck that could've been prevented with A.B.S., so I'm a big proponent of it!
The only problem, this was new technology for Honda at the time, and their ABS technology simply SUCKED...
Just wondering, do you park outside?
You say it is thick though, maybe run by a mechanic and have it checked out just in case. I wouldn't want you to get stranded somewhere because of something I said!
Check your fluids for cross contamination, (antifreeze in oil, oil in radiator)
Also keep an eye on the radiator coolant level.
Mrbill
I have a 1997 LX and it has been giving me some ocassional trouble when starting. I will turn the key all the way, and the dash lights will come on, but the car will not start. The starter will not even engage.
So I will try it another time or too, and if it still wont start, I will pull the key out and wait a second or so, then try again, and it will start right up.
It doesnt happen everytime I go to start the car, maybe once every 7 or 8 times.
Does anyone know what might cause this?
thanks.
Nate
- Main relay. It is known that the main relay in accords (before 2000) have been a problem. Seems that the electrical contacts get loose after sometime. You don't need to buy one, just solder again all electrical contacts. Even though a lot of people indicates that this may be the problem, I can not associate a main relay problem with a non spinning starter when turning on the SW.
- Ignition switch. Seems that after sometime could create a random false contacts. This is the only component that I haven't change.
- Clutch SW (manual only)
- Wiring problems. When you turn over the ignition switch your starter needs to at least spin. The only components in the starter circuit are: Ignition SW, fuse, starter cut relay(Manual only), clutch interlock SW(Manual) and starter; make sure the wiring is ok (no false contacts) between all these components.
- battery
- Starter
Good luck.
JJV -- thanks for the help. Mine is a 5sp man, so It could be the clutch switch. I have no experience in doing wiring work on cars. Are these wires difficult to access? Is there a website I can go to or anything you could recommend for seeing a diagram of these wires and switches, including the main relay?
I appreciate any advice and direction you can help me with.
thanks,
http://www.internetautoguide.com/auto-recalls/67-int/1997/honda/accord/se/index.- html
NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 02V120000 - Hide Details
Recall Data: 05/16/2002
Components: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Units Affected: 1000000
1997 HONDA ACCORD ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Recall Date: 05/16/2002
Summary:
ON CERTAIN SEDANS, COUPES, HATCHBACKS, AND SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, ELECTRICAL CONTACTS IN THE IGNITION SWITCH CAN DEGRADE DUE TO THE HIGH ELECTRICAL CURRENT PASSING THROUGH THE SWITCH WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STARTED.
Consequence:
WORN CONTACTS COULD CAUSE THE ENGINE TO STALL WITHOUT WARNING, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN JUNE 14, 2002. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT HONDA AT 1-800-999-1009 OR ACURA AT 1-800-382-2238.
Potential Units Affected: 1000000
Notes: HONDA ACCORD
The only thing I can imagine it could've happened is that the Ignition coil for some reason has send a spike to your tachometer. This current needs to go thru the fuse box before going into your tac.; so maybe some fuses got affected because of this spike (and that is the reason of the strange sounds in your fuse box..which is affecting your ABS panel light)....bottom line check all your fuses and make sure there are no false contacts or strange smells (burning smells).
Your ignition coil handles very high currents that are sent to the spark plugs and is being controlled by the ICM (Ignition control module). Ignition coil can malfunction creating spikes to its primary solenoid (internally it contains 2 solenoids, the primary solenoid is the one that has less current and it is connected to your tac.) because some internal malfunction on its insulators (this insulators prevents shortcuts between these 2 solenoids).
How to check malfunction of your Ignition coil in a V6?
Turn off your engine, disconnect both connectors (high tension lead and the 4 pin connector). If you place in front of the 4-connector and taking the top notch as the upper reference you will have the following arrange of connectors:
A B --> Upper connectors closest to the top notch
C D
First measure the primary resistance (terminals A-C). It should measure 0.3-0.4 Ohms.
To test the secondary resistance, just place one of your probe on the high tension terminal against terminal A. It should measure 22-34 K ohms.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
the fuse box makes a buzzing noise anywhere for 5 to 30 seconds before the light comes on and the noise goes off.--- Actually the buzzing noise really comes from the ABS module. Your ABS is having a problem. Please go back and read what I've suggested about it couple weeks ago here (#518)... This is all based on my own experience.
Was hoping for bad tumblers in the ignition switch, but the switch just plain wore out. Cost me $300 to have Honda replace and rekey it.
My current problem: losing oil and coolant replacing 1 quart a week.
My dilema :sick: : I received a quote of $1600 to remove/replace engine head and valve. Replace gaskets and tune up parts.
The body is in good shape. There is no way I can afford a can afford another car at this time. Possibly a preowned certified one for abut 8K if I sweat it. Shall I put the 94 on life support for another year??????
Ran the computer analysis (counting blinking lights) and it said there was a problem with the EACV (electronic air control valve?) but dont know if this is even related.
I'm thinking starter or electrical problem at this point, but it really doesn't account for all of the symptoms. I'm having to do this on a budget, which is why I have waited so long to get it fixed, so has anyone had or seen this type of problem. I do not have enough money to fix a list of parts to weed out the problem. Thanks.
IMO, if you decide to replace the car buy a brand new one. Used car prices (especially Honda) are crazy. You can get a new '07 Accord LX for around $18k.
There is some risk in putting a new or rebuilt cylinder head on an old engine. If the old engine is very worn internally, a new head and the increased compression coming from that renewal might pound the heck out of old bearings and rings. So you might start burning even more oil than you do now. That's a possibility you might have to live with.
But if the internals on the engine are sound, you might get away just fine.