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Many thanks,
zaki
Mrbill
Mrbill
It's something you want to have looked at ASAP before one fails and leaves you stranded.
Mrbill
Now no one has any suggestion except to marvel at the mystery. Can anyone help?
The laws of physics dictates that either you are not burning all the fuel that goes into the engine, that it is leaking out, or that your combustion process is very weak, mis-timed or somehow completely out of whack. I can't imagine your catalytic converter is very happy about this either.
Or, if you want to be the true scientist, let someone else drive your car and calculate their gas mileage. This will eliminate you as the problem. (or find you guilty as charged) :P
With flashing D4 I reached home and did not use car from 17:00 to next day 11:00. But when I started the next day, D4 stopped flashing. Car appeared to work normally but I drove rather cautiously, driving such that gear shifts smoothly. However CEL light was on. I took it to one repairer, but they could not communicate with the computer. Since I did not hear any loud boom or any extreme jerky shifting (and that's wat I told this repairer), they said not to worry about CEL. And I started using car with CEL on. But I noticed that the car would shift quite jerkily when it is cold. After it warms up nicely, it would shift normally (kind of).
After about a week, I began to think if transmission failed at inopportune time, it would be great pain. So I took the car to the transmission place, who look up codes for free. They found P0700 and P0780. P0780 means, there's a need for transmission replacement and upshift many not happen. Now I was sure that I needed transmission replacement.
While searching online I came across a site that said that 2000 accords have transmission problems and if you contacted Honda they may cover you by something called as good will repair or extended warranty. I contacted Honda, they asked me to get the car diagnosed at a Honda dealership. I paid US$104 just to pull out codes. Now the extended warranty works for earlier of the following: 7 years since the in-service date of car or 109000miles (instead of 100000miles). My car is in its 8th year(i am the third owner), but has 96666 miles on it. So I did not qualify for extended warranty. Honda remanufactured tranny and replacing the bad tranny altogether would cost about $3200 at a honda dealership. However, the remfg tranny will have 3 year or 36000 mile whichever is earlier warranty on it.
The dealrship guy was extrememly nice and helpful. He talked to Honda. And American Honda agreed to pay 60% of the cost. Which would leave me with about $1500 to pay for transmission, which is a pretty good deal.
Further, I had bought warranty of Guardian Warranty Crop(GWC) on my tranny when I first bought the car. This is good for 1 year or14,500 miles. Honda dealrship guy contacted GWC. And they were initially reluctant to honor. They asked me to leave the car with dealership for their inspector to check if there was a really problem with tranny. I rented car from Honda dealership for $35/day unlimited mileage. Because I don't have another car and I wanted to have my independent car instead of being dependent on someone else for a ride. GWC sent their inspector/adjuster and concluded that tranny needed replacemnt. They had asked Honda dealrship to look for a used tranny. Dlrship found an 80000 mile tranny with 31 day warranty (which is usual and compare it with 3 years of Honda remfg tranny).
Then the Honda dearlship guy talked to GWC about Honda's offer. GWC decided to take up part of expenditure (because the used tranny was costing them about 1700 dollars, while with Honda offer they had to take up little less than that).
In the end, I had pay about $159.00 dollars for replacment of Honda re- manufactured tranny.
However, here's the kicker, either GWC decided to pay full of total expenditure minus Honda's share, or probably the Honda guy miscalculated, but in the end I had to pay $0.00 for the entire transmission replacement.
What I did have to pay were car rental, and diagnostic test fees.
My biggest thanks to Honda dearlship guy, who did all the talking and communicating with both Honda and GWC, second thanks to Honda for standing by their product and third to GWC, who agreed to honor their warranty (which I did not think they would do, considering I have only 8 days left before their warranty expires) and in the end thanks to God, the almighty.
Merry Christmas!
Hope this helps to all.
I am going to repost Honda goodwill warranty stuff as a separate msg, too!
Mrbill
Catylytic converter had been checked and is okay. There is no sign or smell of gasoline under the hood or under the car.
Where would I look for a "real tech" or a really good tuning shop.
Also, someone else driving my car could eliminate my driving style as a variable but I don't believe anyone could get the 23-28 mpg I got consistently for the first 9.5 years I drove it.
Thanks for your help. punchout
Can someone please tell me what the problem is.My father said to switch keys and that could be the problem.I did as he said and the problem continued.
On my 2001 LX V6 Accord "Check" and "TSC" lights started coming on simultaneously recently. To be exact, "check" is followed by "TSC" but interval is barely noticeable, less than a second. If I switch off the car and turn on again, the "TSC" light is gone. "Check" stays on for 3 trips and then goes off. For some time the car drives with no lights and then the story repeats. I've read codes, it is P0401, ie insufficient EGR flow. It maybe clogging indeed but does not make sense to me as 1) I live in California where gas is supposed to be clean enough to cause clogging 8 mm diam port; 2) I use regular plus gas and 3) "TCS" light comes on along with "check", none of these lights come on alone. It shouldn't happen with EGR port clogged according to Honda's service bulletin. Also, I noticed that they come on almost exactly at the same time since I start driving a COLD car (eg in the morning or after work) as if something warms up, tries to open (close) and fails. It may point out at EGR flow. I've replaced EGR valve, the car ran ok for 350 miles and then story with the lights repeated.
My car used to have so called "8/80" warranty for the EGR system, but I have driven over 100K now, so I have to beg Honda to do job on the allegedly clogged port under their goodwill program or pay out of my pocket. In any case I need to have my car inspected by a dealer. I'm reluctant to do that as I fear a dealer may find number of problems, and I have no way to figure out if they are real.
The car runs as if nothing is happening. Could it be, in your opinion or knowledge, some kind of computer or communication problem and are there ways to find it out? Thanks
I do not have a solution for your problem. but I am going to take this opportunity to share my experience which is pretty similar (only I feel:)
My car Honda Accord 2000 EX v6 3.0. Miles driven - 129000 miles.. all maintenance was done timely - alternator, timing belt, water pump has also been changed 5-10000 miles before.
I drove car from (8AM)Chicago to Piegon forge, TN (5PM)- my first stop was at seymore,IN around 12:30PM and after that continuous drive till Pigeon forge, TN @ 5PM. when I reached I could not find my hotel so I decided to park car infront of a shop! after 5-10 minutes of walk, I came back to car tried to start the car it did not start, tried to start car many times for 10-15 minutes it did not start,it just felt it will start and but did not continue, after a long struggle it finally started drove 10-15Feet and stopped again..tried again this time I could drive till hotel 1000Feet away. stopped at hotel and again same problem, finally it started but I pressed accelarator pedal so that engine does not stop( don't know if this is right)
(I remember I had put BP gas full tank somewhere after seymore...)
when the car finally started at hotel, the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WO?ULD COME ON- but now the car would start on the first attempt itself.
I took the car to 2-3 miles far - autozone and he gave some codes P0301 - P0310 - telling me misfiring issue. He also gave Lucas bottle $5 which I put completely in GAS tank and drove away to some place 20 miles away (CHECK ENGINE LIGHT still ON) then after 2 hours I returned and started the car the Check Engine light did not come on and never after that...I cleared the other Maintenance required light using pressing the button and ignition..
I faced same issue after 2 days at some mall in pigeon forge, somehow felt that engine oild temp. was not coming down even if the car is not started, it was like at level less than 50% on the oil temp gauge. Also while driving car in any gear the engine RPMs never went into RED zone.
I still don't know what was the issue for engine light on, was it gas can cap or lucas cleared all issues or there is still a problem.
Also I found on Indiana interstate highway roads there is lot of sound from car - I wonder if it was due to road quality. Sound also came while going to TN.
Any suggestions are welcome, I have already decided to do 3000 miles oil change but this time at honda(due next week)
Thanks for reading my story!
Thanks!
The car might be fine and have some life left in it, but at 140K all parts of the car are vulnerable to failure. Best to have it thoroughly checked out. Look for oil leaks, signs of exhaust system failure and shock/strut failure (typical at this mileage) and be sure to play with all the knobs and switches...ALL of them!
I have 2000 accord EX v6, just would like to share my 2 cents,
I have driven it upto 129000 miles till today, major maintenance to me after 100000 miles
1. alternator
2. timing belt + water pump
3. tires - all 4 replaced
4. replace brake pads - all 4
5. problems while turning so drive shaft or greasing work was done.
6. Please drive the car at night and see if all dash board lights turn on properly and you can see readings.
7. getting hold of manual and reading it before hand would be good idea in order to learn what big maintenance is due in future or near future..
just my experience but I am sure seniors here will guide properly..
Thank you for reading..and good luck
So I'm guessing that you have perhaps a misfire, or a vacuum leak that is messing up the fuel mixture?
See if a quick scan will reveal anything.
Thanks,
Dana
The dealer told me that my front engine mount is starting to crack. I changed the brakes and rotors on Nov 2008 at a honda independent shop and they did not mention anything about the front enfgine mount.
I looked at the mount and did not see any cracks. Does anyone know how to diagnose this problem and how to I know if I need to replace the mount.?
Does the crack appears more in the rubber piece or should I look somewhere else?
Also they mentioned the brake pads sensors ( on the front ) were installed upside down. They said the sensor should be on the top not the bottom. Is this a big deal if it is the case? I assume the independent honda sho installed them correctly, well maybe I shouldn't assume anything :-)
I greatly appreciate any feedback,
Also, engine mounts do give out over time. I imagine one of our illustrious edmunds posters would detail the procedure for checking them.
Best regards,
the grad
Like I said, the mount looks fine to me when I looked at it, I did not see any cracks unless the rubber is worn.
The fact that the pads sensors are on the bottom may not be a big deal ( just my guess). Because the service advisor told me , well when your front brakes are worn then the sensor will not let you know that. Geez, my front pads lasted 150K miles, so by the next time I need new brakes, it may be time for another car
The engine mount problem is making me a bit concerned though!
thanks for your time & sorry for my rant!
You mean in the engine or the steering wheel. No I am not experiencing any vibration at all.
the front engine mount is the one on the right side of the engine, correct?
Because there is another mount right where the transmission and the engine meet, I assume that one is the tranny mount.
PS: I just noticed you have a manual, so you may have to use the emergency brake to do the mount test.
What was the source of your noise problem?
Thanks.
I am new to this forum and would like some guidance and input from all you experts. 3 days back I bought a 01 EX-V6 Accord which has done only 70k miles. It is single owned and maintained immaculately so far.
Just two days back I learnt that 2000 & 2001 Accords have had many transmission problems. Apparently Honda has a 7yr 9month / 109000 warranty on transmissions because of this. Even though I have only 70k on my car, I only have about 4 months left on the warranty for the transmission. How will Honda Customer Service behave on the warranty clause when the time (7yr 9 month) is up, but if I have still not done the 109000 miles. Will they be flexible if some transmission problem comes up ?
The dealer tried to sell some warranty, but I refused to buy it at the time of purchase. I cannot go back and buy it from him now.
Do you all think I should / can purchase some warranty from some one. If so, can you all suggest some reasonable price / plans. I am in a dilemma. Thought a used Accord will be less of a headache among used cars. Please advise.
Thanks.
I have an accord 1998 model. When not in motion and the car is idling, the rev meter regulates.
As in it drops below 1000rpm and then steadys to 1000rpm.
This happens continuously and my check engine light is not on.
What could be the problem of this drop all the time? The car is moving well and fires well.
Am kinda disturbed because its so usual. Have had the car for 2 years now and the mileage is 120k miles.
Please any help will be appreciated.
Thanks.
Obi-TL
Thanks, Baja Joe :confuse: