Also, after you try playing with the clock, please let me know what you find. What puzzles me is that to have the clock on, I either have to have the fan (or AC) on or with the radio/CD on, and there seems to be no way just to have the clock on alone.
I was so curious about the clock that I ran out to the garage to test it. With all the temp controls and radio off, I still have a clock. Again, the Navi system is different since the clock display is in a different location. Seems odd that you could turn it off on any version though.
haha, thanks tallman1, let's wait see if stickguy's clock works the same as mine. Hopefully yes, otherwise my new car seems to have a (minor maybe) problem... sigh.
No, it's not a problem with a label CURLING, apparently. Just the extra layer that adds thickness to the CD surface may be enough for the very tight space inside the changer, to get a CD stuck.
yup, I turned off the VHAC and radio power, and the top band (clock and pictograms of the CDs in the changer) stayed on. I thought it did, but needed to check.
So you might have a problem, unless you are doing something different. Or just make sure to always listen to the radio!
ONly other thing I can think of is you have the dimmer switch turned all the way down?
Perfectly normal. My wife has an 03 EX V6, and it always "clunks" just after you put it into drive. There have been others who have complained of the same thing in this forum, and it seems to happen to all Accords across the board. My wife has 35000 miles and we've never had a single issue. Enjoy your new car!
We have a 2004 Accord EX w/nav. Ours doesn't have the 'clunk' all the time. I have documented it with the dealership (about every 9 months or if I think it's getting worse. They look at it and say that they can't find any codes or obvious problems. My suggestion is that you take it to your dealer and ask them to look at it. This will document your concern/problem so if it does fail after your warranty is expired you will have a excellent chance of getting Honda to correct it. Alien.
which is why I rounded off the hex. Guess what, they put the new plug in for free. Next oil change, which I always do myself, I will see what plug they installed. If it a rethread plug, I will demand a new oil pan.
Hondamatics clunk. Period. A little background: Honda engineering has a perverse obsession with being "different" (that's what makes Hondas so darned lovable!). Where everybody else's automatics are variations on the same theme: a torque converter with multiple sets of plannetary gears that are "engaged" by applying clutch bands and clutch disc assemblies*, Honda uses a torque converter and a real he-man transmission more on the order of a hydraulically operated manual transmission under the control of the valve body. Gears in a Hondamatic really do shift. The engagement of gears which move along an intermediate shaft requires more force to achieve than "conventional" automatic transmissions which merely have to engage/disengage specific clutch packs of already meshing planatary gears. So, the working pressures in a Hondamatic have to be higher. Couple that with a cold engine whose idle speed is faster than when fully warmed, and you end up with perceptible "clunk" - more so on cold startoff.
*The 1939 Oldsmobile's "Hydramatic" was the first fully automatic transmission. It used a fluid coupling and a 4-sp set of planetary gears. But, GM didn't think up the planetary gear arrangement. The company dusted off patent blueprints of the Model T Ford's transmission - a 2-sp plus reverse manually operated planetary gear box that only required clutch manipulation when starting off from a dead stop. Engaging high gear merely involved releasing one lever and engaging another. The more things change, the more they stay the same. Henry Ford was so tantalizingly close to a working automatic but never made the leap to replacing the manual clutch with a fluid coupling or torque converter and using a vacuum modulated valve body to orchestrate gear selection according to engine load. End of stroll down memory lane.
The popping noise issue is not fixed at all. It's still there after the car is warmed up and driven at slow speed (5-15 mph). I'll take it back to the dealer.
I have a delay after I put the car in (D)rive of about a second or two before it actually goes into drive. It's just a mild annoyance more then anything and I don't want to mess with something if it ain't that broke or different but I was just wondering if anyone else had a delay from the time the car is put into Drive from Neutral everytime you start the car and get ready to take off. Does anyone else have this issue?
BTW, the clunks are normal and I get them from Park all the way to Neutral but then when I put it into Drive, there is not a clunk as much as a delay from the time the lever goes into Drive and the time the gear engages. I am not worried about them but I did find them mildy disconcerting back in the day but have no ill effects after 8500 miles..anyone?
It's my fifth day of driving my new car, and I noticed the Passenger airbag OFF indicator came on after I started the engine, and stayed for 10 seconds and then went off. It didn't happen like this before, and I was the only one in the car. Nothing was on the passenger side seat. Happened twice today as I started my engine. Reading the manual, I found that the indicator should not come on if there is no one sitting on that seat. Is it something that I should be alarmed about? My car is a 2006 EX-L sedan and I only have 80 miles on the car. Thanks.
If it turns off soon after starting the car (within, say 15 sec) I'd say you have no problems. I'll have to check, but I think my EX does the same thing, meaning the airbag lights are the last to cut off before I drive.
It does turn off within 15 seconds. What's weird is that this didn't happen before, and it's the Passenger Airbag Off Indicator (above the Hazard Lights above the display/clock) that lights up and goes off the last, not the airbag lights on the control panel. I think Ex and Ex-L have the same Indicator at the same location. Thanks for your reply, and please let me know after you have a chance to check.
I will check in the morning, and should repost by tomorrow afternoon, if not before. Yes, referring to the light that comes on above the hazard button near the vents. The EX has the same location as the EX-L. I'm happy to help, but have to be up early, and am not heading to the basement this close to bedtime, or i'll be wide awake again!
Best regards
thegrad
PS: Feel free to post a "reminder" message on here if you haven't heard from me in 24 hours or so. Tomorrow is my birthday (number 1-9), so I'll be kinda busy after classes and work, but should have some time to sign on during the day!
hondas will sense a light person in the passenger seat and turn off the bag.
sometimes putting something like a purse or laptop or a bag of groceries will cause the light to illuminate (the one on the dash - not the instrument panel) to come on saying the bag has been disabled.
I checked for ya. The (passenger airbag "off") light comes on and stays on for less than ten seconds, but it's at least 4 or 5 sec. Hope that helps you!
And thanks for the birthday wish. I know I'm still a youngun for these boards, but thanks for not treating me like a kid (some on the minivan boards used too!)
Thanks for all the responses, and thanks to thegrad. I didn't have anything on the passenger chair, but now I guess that's just part of the start-up check. Thanks!
Thank you. I noticed that when backing out of the driveway first thing in the morning, it will clunk. Also, I am beggining to notice that it only clunks when making the transition on hills. (The road I back out on in the morning has a hill on it) When I shift from R to D on flat ground, there is no clunk.
I've been watching that portion of the thread (clunk chat, if you will)... All three of our Accord I4 ATs will "clunk" when shifted on a hill, especially when parked on a hill and coming out of Park. The only time it won't is when you set the e-brake really tight so the car doesn't roll back.
This goes for our:
2006 EX, 10,500 miles 2005 EX, 57,000 miles 1996 LX, 165,000 miles (original 4-speed Auto tranny, knock on wood )
The clunk has always existed in my 1996, and I have never EVER had a transmission problem.
Let me reiterate once more though, the clunk only occurs on when shifting on hills.
my 2006 accord makes a clicking noise when shifting to drive from any other gear. there is no vibration; just a clicking noise. and this noise occurs only 1 or two seconds after the shift. i can't hear it if my windows are rolled up or if my a/c is on but can hear it otherwise. but it is pretty loud. my friend's 1998 honda civic does not have this noise. is this normal. the vehicle shifts smoothly when driving.
I had a 92 Accord, and now an 03 Accord. On both cars I could hear the transmission when shifting to drive or reverse. The 92 had 140k miles when I sold it. And the 03 now has 37k miles. I have not had any problems with either transmission. This is normal sounds coming from an Accord transmission.
Hi, Mine(Accord 2006) is the same as yours. I noticed the noise when shifting from "p" to "D". You know that from p to D it first goes to "R" then "N" and finally D. When it goes to "R" an extra gear should be placed between other gears (inside the transmission=Gearbox)to drive the car backward, so there is movement of mechanical parts and acting of electrical parts, valves,... inside the transmission. when you shift from R to D, all the above process should be reversed which makes the noise. If you put on D then change to N and then to D there should not be any noise because you have not shifted to R. So the noise is normal. I took my car to the dealer and the head mechanic checked it and showed me some other 2006 which all had the same noise.(sorry if my English is not fine)
Pardon my silly questions as a new driver/owner. My cousin and I took the car (06 Accord Ex-L) out today for a drive, and he noticed that there's wind coming in from the two vents above the radio while driving. He thought that my AC was on, etc. I checked: AC was off, no fan was on, etc, but I can feel wind coming in from those two vents as well. Is it normal for any car or is there a crack somewhere in my car? If it's normal, wouldn't that mean in the winter cold air can sneak in as well? I'd appreciate it if anyone could shed a light on this. Many thanks in advance!
Hi, It's normal. There is a vent in front of heater( and air conditioner) (toward the engine). And there is a lid (cover) over it. When the lid is open the outside air can come in. So when you drive or turn on the fan you feel the flow( outside air comes in). How the lid can be closed? simply press the button(switch) which there is a curved arrow on it that indicate air circulation just inside the car ( the light on the button turns on). So the lid would be closed.
fated, for safety reasons car makers design their cars so that -- unless you specifically turn the air to "circulation" -- there is always fresh air coming into the cabin. Fresh air keeps you alert.
You use "circulation" only whe you enter a very hot car. Use that to quickly cool it down using the A/C. Then switch off the "circulation" and back to normal.
Same applies to heat in the winter. Again, and even more crucial in winter when warm air can make you drowsy, always remember to switch back to normal, let fresh air into the cabin.
I want to know if anyone has experienced this problem. While driving, if I rest my arm on the door it starts creaking. It's creaks even if I just place my elbow on the armrest. It's annoying to say the least. The creaks appears to come from the rear part of the door, maybe the seals rubbing on something. It's not coming from the armrest or interior panel of the door itself. As I don't have time to take it in to Honda service for just this one problem, I'll have to live with it until my next service is due.
What model year is your Accord? How many miles has it been driven? Is it a sedan or a coupe? Is the window in the fully up position, or partially up, when this occurs? Are the screws holding the armrest to the door securely fastened? Has the car ever been in an accident requiring a repair of that door? Has the door ever been dissembled for any reason?
The more information that you provide, the easier it is to answer your question. The converse is also true.
A very light spray of silicone lubricant on the door hinges and rubber seals may help.
I hardly ever run my air on outside unless I'm driving out in the country. In the city, with the switch on fresh, it sucks up exhaust fumes, burning trash, diesel fumes, etc. No thanks! I'll keep the vent closed!
But it's taking in some outside air all along, and you're recycling what used to be outside air 2 minutes before. You may even be concentrating the pollutants unless you have some kind of ozone machine and charcoal filter and so on to remove the pollution from the incoming air.
First, let me thank all of you who answered my question above regarding the vent. This forum is very helpful, and I have learned a lot from many of you.
Another question: do you know where to buy a reliable or just an ordinary tire air pressure gauge? I used my friend's gauge to check my tire pressure, and the readings were 30 and 30 for the front tires and 28 and 26 for the two at the back. That is all too low, right? I purchased the car (Accord ExL 4cyl) new last week. I wanted to make sure the reading is accurate.
More generally, what kind of gauge shall I buy and shall I always pay $1 and check the pressure at the gas station?
As the hot summertime temperatures drop into the fall/winter is when it's really important to check those tire pressures. You'll see people whose tires were at 32 driving around at 28 lbs/sq in when temps drop into the 50s in 6 weeks.
Very True. Another good reason to check pressures monthly. I believe the usual conversion is 1 PSI per 10 degrees, meaning:
If my tires are at 30 PSI at 80 degrees, they will be 25 PSI at 30 degrees.
Also, always check your tire pressure "cold," meaning when the tires haven't been driven on for awhile. Tire pressures rise by a good 6-9 PSI when they have been driven on recently. When I check my tires, its usually on a Saturday morning when I'm about to clean up my car, and I know it hasn't been driven in at least 10 hours. 3 hours would likely be fine, though.
*******SIDENOTE/SUBJECT CHANGE*******
About how long are you owners getting out of your tires (this is for EX drivers with 16" Michelin Energy tires)... I'm just curious... my father got something like 43,000 miles on his before replacement. I am curious what to expect out of my 2006 EX I-4.
--"Doesn't recirculate use a mixture of air from the passenger area and air from the outside?"--
You're right. Even without intentional design, no one's succeeded yet building an air-tight car body, anyway. I can't see the logic of intentionally bringing in 104 degree and/or 60% humidity outside air in the extreme summer months and trying to cool it down to ~78 degrees/20% humidity on a continuous basis. That's gotta be a fuel efficiency nightmare. (I don't open my windows in my home while I run its A/C, either. Why would I do otherwise in my car? )
My 2006 VP is still in break-in period. However it seems that there is a problem when I tried to accelerate at low speed. The problem is the engine will produce big noise when the speed is around 10 mph and I tried to increase it further. It really takes some time to reach a higher speed. I always feel uncomfortable when I stopped at the cross or stop sign. Is this normal for a break-in car? Could anyone give some comments? Thanks a lot.
I guess I did leave out a few details - sorry. :surprise: I have an 06 EXV6 sedan. The window is always full closed when driving. The entire door panel seems secure, and I've had no accidents since I bought it new in Feb. 06. I have about 11,600 miles on it.
I plan on have the service tech look it when it's in for the next service.
Comments
I would try what you suggested. Thanks a lot!
Also, after you try playing with the clock, please let me know what you find. What puzzles me is that to have the clock on, I either have to have the fan (or AC) on or with the radio/CD on, and there seems to be no way just to have the clock on alone.
So you might have a problem, unless you are doing something different. Or just make sure to always listen to the radio!
ONly other thing I can think of is you have the dimmer switch turned all the way down?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
It might be because you had CDs in the changer so the pictograms are displayed and hence the clock is displayed as well.
I didn't dim the display all the way down. I OFF'ed the VHAC and OFF'ed the Audio/Power. With no CDs in changer, everything is dark on the display.
Could you check yours again without the CDs if you have a chance tomorrow?
Thanks much!
Guess what, they put the new plug in for free.
Next oil change, which I always do myself, I will see what plug they installed. If it a rethread plug, I will demand a new oil pan.
*The 1939 Oldsmobile's "Hydramatic" was the first fully automatic transmission. It used a fluid coupling and a 4-sp set of planetary gears. But, GM didn't think up the planetary gear arrangement. The company dusted off patent blueprints of the Model T Ford's transmission - a 2-sp plus reverse manually operated planetary gear box that only required clutch manipulation when starting off from a dead stop. Engaging high gear merely involved releasing one lever and engaging another. The more things change, the more they stay the same. Henry Ford was so tantalizingly close to a working automatic but never made the leap to replacing the manual clutch with a fluid coupling or torque converter and using a vacuum modulated valve body to orchestrate gear selection according to engine load. End of stroll down memory lane.
BTW, the clunks are normal and I get them from Park all the way to Neutral but then when I put it into Drive, there is not a clunk as much as a delay from the time the lever goes into Drive and the time the gear engages. I am not worried about them but I did find them mildy disconcerting back in the day but have no ill effects after 8500 miles..anyone?
Best regards
thegrad
PS: Feel free to post a "reminder" message on here if you haven't heard from me in 24 hours or so. Tomorrow is my birthday (number 1-9), so I'll be kinda busy after classes and work, but should have some time to sign on during the day!
Thanks for being so kind, and happy birthday (on east coast, it's already tomorrow~)
hondas will sense a light person in the passenger seat and turn off the bag.
sometimes putting something like a purse or laptop or a bag of groceries will cause the light to illuminate (the one on the dash - not the instrument panel) to come on saying the bag has been disabled.
look in your owner's manual for more information.
That, and also verify that the front seat passenger lap-shoulder belt is fully retracted.
Wow - I never thought about it that way. (Did the Yankees win today?...)
And thanks for the birthday wish. I know I'm still a youngun for these boards, but thanks for not treating me like a kid (some on the minivan boards used too!)
This goes for our:
2006 EX, 10,500 miles
2005 EX, 57,000 miles
1996 LX, 165,000 miles (original 4-speed Auto tranny, knock on wood
The clunk has always existed in my 1996, and I have never EVER had a transmission problem.
Let me reiterate once more though, the clunk only occurs on when shifting on hills.
--gopi
You use "circulation" only whe you enter a very hot car. Use that to quickly cool it down using the A/C. Then switch off the "circulation" and back to normal.
Same applies to heat in the winter. Again, and even more crucial in winter when warm air can make you drowsy, always remember to switch back to normal, let fresh air into the cabin.
The more information that you provide, the easier it is to answer your question. The converse is also true.
A very light spray of silicone lubricant on the door hinges and rubber seals may help.
And if the air seems cold, just set the temp higher.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Another question: do you know where to buy a reliable or just an ordinary tire air pressure gauge? I used my friend's gauge to check my tire pressure, and the readings were 30 and 30 for the front tires and 28 and 26 for the two at the back. That is all too low, right? I purchased the car (Accord ExL 4cyl) new last week. I wanted to make sure the reading is accurate.
More generally, what kind of gauge shall I buy and shall I always pay $1 and check the pressure at the gas station?
Thanks!
Honda recommends 32 PSI I beleive, but I keep my tires at 35 PSI, for better economy and sharper handling.
I'd never let my tires drop below the recommended pressure (32PSI).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If my tires are at 30 PSI at 80 degrees, they will be 25 PSI at 30 degrees.
Also, always check your tire pressure "cold," meaning when the tires haven't been driven on for awhile. Tire pressures rise by a good 6-9 PSI when they have been driven on recently. When I check my tires, its usually on a Saturday morning when I'm about to clean up my car, and I know it hasn't been driven in at least 10 hours. 3 hours would likely be fine, though.
*******SIDENOTE/SUBJECT CHANGE*******
About how long are you owners getting out of your tires (this is for EX drivers with 16" Michelin Energy tires)... I'm just curious... my father got something like 43,000 miles on his before replacement. I am curious what to expect out of my 2006 EX I-4.
You're right. Even without intentional design, no one's succeeded yet building an air-tight car body, anyway. I can't see the logic of intentionally bringing in 104 degree and/or 60% humidity outside air in the extreme summer months and trying to cool it down to ~78 degrees/20% humidity on a continuous basis. That's gotta be a fuel efficiency nightmare. (I don't open my windows in my home while I run its A/C, either. Why would I do otherwise in my car?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I plan on have the service tech look it when it's in for the next service.
Your best bet for ease of use and accuracy is a digital tire gauge such as any of the Accutire brand models.
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/airgauges/airgauges_all.jsp