There's no need to be rude. You stated that the filter removed all pollutants, and it doesn't. You can keep your recirculate however you wish. You also stated that recirculate uses only inside air, and it doesn't. Honda doesn't want lawsuits. I corrected those statements. Those are my points>
In the Accord owner's manual, it says to use "Saddle Soap" to clean the leather seats. When I read this, I was very skeptical. My seats have accumulated some dirt over 3 years, and I finally decided to try it. WOW! this stuff works like magic. Cleans, protects, and makes the leather feel softer. Wish I would have tried it sooner. I had tried all the leather stuff you can get from Autozone, or Advance, and none of it comes close to "Saddle Soap". You can find it at your local feed store. $5.00 for a can that will probably last for 10 years, if it doesn't dry out before then. Happy cleaning.
I got bottle of Mother's leather conditioner cleaner. I had tried Meguiar's too. Both seemed to be leaving some darkening in the bottle of the wrinkles on our lighter color seats. I used a soft toothbrush to lightly work the cleaner by Mother's into the wrinkles. They look like new.
Does saddle soap bring the dirt up out of the wrinkles? I had cleaned these seats a couple of times a year with Meguiars, but the dirt seemed to accumulate.
Thanks for the info, thegraduate and blane! I bought a digital gauge from Radioshack, but it was not accurate at all. I'll take a look at Accutire. But would a simple non-digital gauge that costs a couple of dollars or so do a good job?
I don't use the AC much here in western Washington so I don't have the same situation as some of the rest here. Everything I've always read about recirculating the air said to use it at first, either heating or cooling and then switch it to outside air. The auto temp control on my EX-L even does that automatically. The idea is to heat or cool the car quickly. I believe the owners manual says to follow this procedure as well.
I don't claim to be an expert here, but a car isn't quite the same as a house when it comes to energy efficiency, is it? I know you will use more gas with AC on but does it use more gas the cooler the temp goes? Is there a difference in the amount of fuel used if I cool my car to 74 or 68? Or if I'm heating outside air as opposed to inside air?
FWIW: i personally use an accutire gauge i purchased at Target for I think something around 8 dollars.
i think accuracy isn't as important as is repeatability and precision in this case. in otherwords, i don't care if the gauge is 1 or 2 lbs in-accurate as long as it is consistently so. i also want to get all four tires within a 1/2 lb of each other, and with this gauge, because of the digital readout and the sensing technology, i think i can do it.
my personal history with the cheaper sliding stick readouts is somewhat varied.
If you can't afford an accurate digital gauge for ten to fifteen bucks, DO NOT waste your money on a sliding stick gauge. As the stick is often exposed, they tend to get dirty, can stick, can bend, can bind, and can provide inconsistant readings. A decent brand of round analog dial gauge would be much more reliable and accurate, but the digitals are unquestionably your best choice.
The label on your driver's door post lists the Honda-specified COLD tire pressures for your vehicle.
My two $1.00 Walmart tire gauges are very accurate as verified by the service techs at my dealers and my wife's pricy auto system in her Caddy! Plus if you lose it which I do periodically, just buy another.
I still believe the tire store's solution of 3 tires gauges and buy a new one occasionally toss the one of the four that reads off from the others. Keep one in each glovebox.
I personally don't have trouble with dirt. Just wipe the stick before it slides back in.
Round gauges: drop them, out of adjustment. Some have plastic gears inside. Seemed sticky at certain pressures.
I still like the $1 gauge. Takes up no room. Yes I have two round gauges that I keep garaged at home. Each cost under $10 at KMart or PepBoys or Advance Auto.
--"My two $1.00 Walmart tire gauges are very accurate as verified by the service techs at my dealers and my wife's pricy auto system in her Caddy! Plus if you lose it which I do periodically, just buy another."--
Bears repeating! Having a near lab-grade precision electronic instrument (which probably uses a battery that costs as much, or nearly so, as a replacement "low-tech" stick style air pressure gauge costs) isn't necessary. Checking and adjusting the tires' air pressure routinely is, though.
I bought a 2006 EX-L 2.4 model last Friday. Yesterday I found pretty intensive rusts on the edges of the brake disks (all four). I just want to make it clean since it is a new car. Any advices? How do I make dealer do such cleaning?
Disc brake rotors are made from iron, which rusts. This is cosmetic and causes no harm. Brake disc rotors are not painted as paint would soon burn off from the heat generated anyways. Just let it be and live with it.
Yes, the Saddle Soap will get the dirt out of the seams, without removing the dye from the leather. I had 3 years of accumulation in my seams, and nothing else came close to getting it out. You have to see it work, to believe it.
I am having 2006 Accord V6 EX for a year now. I have driven only 3200 miles only. Do you people suggest that I should schedule a service now. Some people advicing me to wait to reach 3700 miles. Please suggest... I'll appreciate your advice. Thanks
Don't know exactly what service Honda requires at 3200 miles, but I have a '95 Camry and, like you, only average about 4000 miles a year. I change the oil once a year. And I haven't had one, not one, single problem with the car.
Came to this site as I was originally going to buy a new Camry this year...but ruled that out with all the problems Toyota is having. And, even though I liked the Azera, I ruled that out 'cause of its cheap looking interior.
Now I'm thinking Honda. Will have to see how Honda is holding up...or just stay with my Camry. :confuse:
Honda recommends replacing a washer on oil pan every time I change oil in my 2006 Honda Accord 4cyl. People's opinions? Where do I get this washer? Will Pep Boys have it?
What badgerfan said times infinity. The amount of rust that forms is self-limiting - there's no danger of the disc flying apart due to corrosion. But, if you absolutely positively feel you must scratch an irrational obsession itch, use a high temperature spray paint to coat the area of the discs that aren't swept by the pads. Avoid laying down paint on the swept area.
Along with a 04 Accord, I also have an 88 with 140k miles on it. It has had over 40 oil changes, and it's still on the original washer. Some people may say to change it, but don't worry if you don't. There isn't any difference in the 03-06 Accord drain plugs from the 88.
The only thing that happens over time is the washer does crush. Although it doesn't leak, it can be more of a challenge to remove since it's squashed against the plug threads.
))"Honda recommends replacing a washer on oil pan every time I change oil in my 2006 Honda Accord 4cyl."((
The "need" for a new crush sealing washer at every oil change is overstated hooie. I dutifully bought one for my '96 Accord from the dealer (~$2.00 ten years ago) and never used it. Over the seven years I enjoyed that car, I just re-used the original washer at each 3,000 mile oil change. If it was gonna leak, it certainly had ample opportunity what with my frequent oil change intervals. Yet every time I subsequently slid under the car at its next oil and filter* change, everything around the drain plug was bone dry - not even minimally moist. I have no idea whether autoparts stores would have the identical article, but letting your finger do the walking with a few calls might be entertaining if not productive.
* Yo, do-it-yourselfers - has anyone besides me noticed that Honda must hire sumo wrestlers who're lookin' to augment their income to screw on oil filters at the factory? Oh, and on the I4, is there possibly any less convenient location Honda's engineers could've found to mount the oil filter?
You probably won't know the answer to this, and that's ok. Nobody on the 1994-1997 Accord Forum will bother to even say "I don't know" to this, and I've reposted 3 times with the same question.
On the around the auto transmission, there is the PRND4D321 that lights up when the headlights are turned on.
Referring to this area
not the instrument panel.
The light that illuminates the PRND321 no longer works. Do you, or ANYONE, know if this is an easy fix? I have no idea how to get to it, and am afraid the dealer would charge an arm and a leg to fix what may be a $2 problem. Any, and I mean ANY help or insight, is appreciated.
Hmmmm... I'm almost hesitant to say this ... but on the manual tranny car (mine is an '06), the trim around the gearshift just pops up with some coaxing. I would THINK its the same on the automatic ... but I'd hate for you to try and break something. Hopefully someone with an automatic and 5th generation can confirm.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks. I don't plan on pulling something up until I get something definite, so don't worry. Maybe I should call my local dealer and ask what replacing that bulb would entail. Y'all are just much nicer and more fun to talk to than a service tech! Thanks a lot! :shades:
If you refer to the owner's manual, it will state that if the oil service monitor does not light up after 1 year, you should have the oil changed anyway. An oil change is what I would do at a minimum.
I'm afraid that might be different on the 1996 model, though. I realize a 2003+ is pictured, but I only used the pic to ensure everyone knew what bulb I was referencing. The bulb is actually out in my 96, not my 06. Do y'all think it would work similarly?
Ha ha, I'm not paying close enough attention. Just looked at the picture, and assumed.
I remember on my 92, I would just have a few screws on eash side near the bottom of the console, and the whole thing would come out in one piece. 96 probably not the same as 92 either though (92 is 4th gen, and 96 is 5th gen). Maybe try to Google it, and see what turns up. Good luck with it.
I like the automatic lights off feature of the 06 Accord EX-L, but today when I forgot to turn off the ceiling light on the driver side, it was on when I returned after ~8 hours... I then read the manual and found that the automatic lights off feature only applies to head lights, parking lights, tail lights, etc. Hating myself now, for I was always trying to be careful with the new car. sigh, I really hope the battery was not damaged by this 8-hour mistake - could it be damaged?
))"Excuse my ignorance, but what is Saddle Soap? Thanks."((
Ironically, the term is both generic and self-descriptive. Saddle soap is a combination of soap, glycerin, and other emollients to clean and protect leather products. It probably got its name as the result of using the product to clean and maintain suppleness of the appliance by which equine riders become intimately involved with their mount. (Newcomers may've derisively been labled, "tenderfoot" on the frontier, but well established riders still had their "sensitve side", too... )
I did pretty much the same thing after having my car for only a week or so. I was reading something with the map light on while the car was in the garage. I forgot all about turning it off and then had to be out of town for a day or two. Nothing worked when I got back so I had to jump it. I did learn that Honda has a cool placement for the negative cable though. No more searching for a good spot on the frame.
Oh, and the car has been just fine... 5 months and 9400 miles later.
For the person complaining about oif filter location on the 06 Accord I4.. I find it the easiest car to change oil filter, you can reach it from the top of the car, just under the exhaust manifold.
One thing after another, after two weeks driving my new Accord Ex, I scratched it today in a parking lot... The scratch was about 3 feet long, although most of it not deep or wide. Is there any product easily available at Target or Autozone that one can use to treat scratches? I know I can't make them completely go away, just want to make them less conspicuous.
Thanks, and now my car is officially no longer new... so upsetting to me.
There really isn't a replacement interval for brake rotors. Some may last the life of the car, some may need replacement during the 1st brake job. It all depends on their condition.
If the rust is on the non pad contact area, it only affects appearance. If the rust is on the pad contact area, it is normally removed during braking. Some rotors can rust up to a point where braking won't even clean them up. I've seen many badly rusted rotors on GM products. The only way of cleaning them is to have the rotors machined or replaced.
I've found that the best thing for removing surface scratches is Zaino clay bar. I've used it myself and it's fantastic. It's only available via the web.
There are other clay products out there, but I can't vouch for them.
Usually, the rotors are only replaced when they have reached their "service limit" (too thin to machine down). If the rotors are warped (causing vibration when braking) if they are not too bad, they can be machined. If the rotors are warped too bad, they have to be replaced.
That's a great looking car. I wanted that color but my wife thought it would get too hot out in the sun. We ended up settling on Alabaster Silver instead.
There are some pictures and explanations on treating scratches in the Griot's Garage Detailer's Handbook. You can buy one or you can download it for free. Excellent resource.
My father has the Alabaster Silver (2005 EX I-4), and that car never looks dirty! I think it would be my second choice (and thanks for the compliments, I'm loving the car!)
I'll vouch for that. Although I wash my car every week, it will be interesting to see what the winter rain will bring. The silver really holds up.... and where I live, there is a lot of rain.
))"I find it the easiest car to change oil filter, you can reach it from the top of the car, just under the exhaust manifold."((
Hmmmm... Interesting. My 1st, and only, Accord ('96) had the oil filter on the "windshield" side of the engine while the exhaust mainifold was on the opposite side and faced the front grill. I take it the current I4 has been seriously redesigned from my old 2.2L motor? Is the oil filter on yours mounted low enough that burning your hand on the exhaust manifild isn't an issue during filter replacement?
I need some help here. Where is the DLC on 2005 Honda Accords? Definitely not under the driver's side dash. I've done some work in there connecting an outside temp gauge, but there was no OBD II terminal there. I don't want to drop down the passenger's side under dash cover if I don't have to (plastic breakies and all). So where did Honda hide the Data Link Connector? Thanks in advance — Gly
Comments
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Does saddle soap bring the dirt up out of the wrinkles? I had cleaned these seats a couple of times a year with Meguiars, but the dirt seemed to accumulate.
Did I do something wrong?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I don't claim to be an expert here, but a car isn't quite the same as a house when it comes to energy efficiency, is it? I know you will use more gas with AC on but does it use more gas the cooler the temp goes? Is there a difference in the amount of fuel used if I cool my car to 74 or 68? Or if I'm heating outside air as opposed to inside air?
i think accuracy isn't as important as is repeatability and precision in this case. in otherwords, i don't care if the gauge is 1 or 2 lbs in-accurate as long as it is consistently so. i also want to get all four tires within a 1/2 lb of each other, and with this gauge, because of the digital readout and the sensing technology, i think i can do it.
my personal history with the cheaper sliding stick readouts is somewhat varied.
The label on your driver's door post lists the Honda-specified COLD tire pressures for your vehicle.
I personally don't have trouble with dirt. Just wipe the stick before it slides back in.
Round gauges: drop them, out of adjustment. Some have plastic gears inside. Seemed sticky at certain pressures.
I still like the $1 gauge. Takes up no room. Yes I have two round gauges that I keep garaged at home. Each cost under $10 at KMart or PepBoys or Advance Auto.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Bears repeating!
Thanks!
I'll appreciate your advice.
Thanks
Came to this site as I was originally going to buy a new Camry this year...but ruled that out with all the problems Toyota is having. And, even though I liked the Azera, I ruled that out 'cause of its cheap looking interior.
Now I'm thinking Honda. Will have to see how Honda is holding up...or just stay with my Camry. :confuse:
People's opinions? Where do I get this washer? Will Pep Boys have it?
TIA.
The only thing that happens over time is the washer does crush. Although it doesn't leak, it can be more of a challenge to remove since it's squashed against the plug threads.
Mrbill
The "need" for a new crush sealing washer at every oil change is overstated hooie. I dutifully bought one for my '96 Accord from the dealer (~$2.00 ten years ago) and never used it. Over the seven years I enjoyed that car, I just re-used the original washer at each 3,000 mile oil change. If it was gonna leak, it certainly had ample opportunity what with my frequent oil change intervals. Yet every time I subsequently slid under the car at its next oil and filter* change, everything around the drain plug was bone dry - not even minimally moist. I have no idea whether autoparts stores would have the identical article, but letting your finger do the walking with a few calls might be entertaining if not productive.
* Yo, do-it-yourselfers - has anyone besides me noticed that Honda must hire sumo wrestlers who're lookin' to augment their income to screw on oil filters at the factory? Oh, and on the I4, is there possibly any less convenient location Honda's engineers could've found to mount the oil filter?
You probably won't know the answer to this, and that's ok. Nobody on the 1994-1997 Accord Forum will bother to even say "I don't know" to this, and I've reposted 3 times with the same question.
On the around the auto transmission, there is the PRND4D321 that lights up when the headlights are turned on.
Referring to this area
not the instrument panel.
The light that illuminates the PRND321 no longer works. Do you, or ANYONE, know if this is an easy fix? I have no idea how to get to it, and am afraid the dealer would charge an arm and a leg to fix what may be a $2 problem. Any, and I mean ANY help or insight, is appreciated.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I remember on my 92, I would just have a few screws on eash side near the bottom of the console, and the whole thing would come out in one piece. 96 probably not the same as 92 either though (92 is 4th gen, and 96 is 5th gen). Maybe try to Google it, and see what turns up. Good luck with it.
Shouldn't be.
Take a five/ten mile non stop ride on a highway and it will be fully charged and as good as new.
Ironically, the term is both generic and self-descriptive. Saddle soap is a combination of soap, glycerin, and other emollients to clean and protect leather products. It probably got its name as the result of using the product to clean and maintain suppleness of the appliance by which equine riders become intimately involved with their mount. (Newcomers may've derisively been labled, "tenderfoot" on the frontier, but well established riders still had their "sensitve side", too...
Oh, and the car has been just fine... 5 months and 9400 miles later.
Thanks, and now my car is officially no longer new... so upsetting to me.
How often do they need to be replaced by new ones?
Does the amount of rusts affect on this replacement cycle?
Thanks in advance.
If the rust is on the non pad contact area, it only affects appearance. If the rust is on the pad contact area, it is normally removed during braking. Some rotors can rust up to a point where braking won't even clean them up. I've seen many badly rusted rotors on GM products. The only way of cleaning them is to have the rotors machined or replaced.
Mrbill
There are other clay products out there, but I can't vouch for them.
Check out www.zainobros.com
Here's a direct link: Detailer's Handbook
10,800 miles,
thegrad
I'll vouch for that. Although I wash my car every week, it will be interesting to see what the winter rain will bring. The silver really holds up.... and where I live, there is a lot of rain.
Hmmmm... Interesting. My 1st, and only, Accord ('96) had the oil filter on the "windshield" side of the engine while the exhaust mainifold was on the opposite side and faced the front grill. I take it the current I4 has been seriously redesigned from my old 2.2L motor? Is the oil filter on yours mounted low enough that burning your hand on the exhaust manifild isn't an issue during filter replacement?
Thanks in advance — Gly